Digital Focus Assistance
all right with the muralist cameras. They've introduced a lot of new features, which are really good for focusing. So now you can use the LCD on the back of the camera, like live you on the SL ours, or you can use the E V f. And if you're out shooting in bright sunlight, that E V F. Is fantastic, and that's what I tend to use. And I really like being able to do that so they don't have to bring out my loop to look at the back of the camera. And there's a lot of information that you might be getting in here. And you can turn a lot of this stuff on and off and one of the beauties of the muralist cameras that you could have the same information on the back as in the viewfinder. It's not any different, whereas an SLR there's different types of information that you will get in one or the other. So the first thing is magnification. I just showed this to you. This is a video of how I would zoom in, find my subject and just manually focus the lens until it's nice and sharp. Go back and forth to...
figure out where it is. Zoom in a little bit closer. If I need to make sure it's nice and sharp and then I'm going to get it back and then I can shoot my photo and I'm gonna be absolutely positive. That's it. It's in focus now. Fuji has a feature that I love on their camera, and I hope we see this on other cameras. It's a focusing scale here on the bottom and on this one. When you turn the lens, it's gonna move the focusing. But it's also going to show you with the blue line. How much will be in focus. Depth of field wise. Peaking is something that we're seeing on a lot more cameras. Most all of the cameras will have this. Now. Even some of the SL Ours will have it in the live view mode and it shimmers areas in highlight that it is in focus and this is a good general system. But if you are focusing with a really shallow depth of field lands, this may not be the best system. It's good but not fantastic, because it's showing you a region and sometimes you need to be more precise than this region is showing you dual images, a unique one for Fuji. And if you think I'm talking fuji up, I think they do a good job on a few things. And when you do something unique, that's helpful. I'm gonna give him some credit points there, and so they have a second image over here. To the right is you can see you can move that box around and choose something else outside of the centre frame. And that's gonna be your magnification point. So you get one box where you can see everything one box where you can magnify. And if you don't like that, you can customize it and reverse him. So the big boxes for focusing and the small box is for composition. Fuji also has a digital split image. I'm not a big fan of this, but it is kind of interesting, and this mimics the way we used to focus on. The older camels re used to have this split image, usually a micro prism split image finder, and sometimes they would put the split horizontally. Sometimes they would do it diagonally, and we would line up vertical wines. And when they are vertical, we know that we've got things correct, and they could do this in black and white in color now on the modern cameras. And so there's a number of neat new options on this. And so one of the things that I would imagine for somebody who is new to photography at this point is that you might be feeling overwhelmed at the options because there are so many options for focusing. So I decided toe lay them all out so that we could see them. So we have manual focus options and autofocus options, and this first slide is just for DSL. Ours. All right, so you can use the viewfinder. It's simple, and it's fast. But if you really want to be precise, you used the act the LCD on the back of the camera cause it's gonna be very, very accurate, cause you can see exactly what the lens have seen. With auto focus, we have single autofocus, and then from there we congenitally choose single point group point and all points. The single point is going to be very precise cause you get to choose exactly where it needs to be the middle one is not as precise, but it's a little bit easier because you don't have to be as accurate in pointing it. And then we have all points, which is really fast and easy. But it's the least precise, at least versatile, because it's just choosing whatever is closest in all those points. Then we have the option of continuous focusing. We could do continuous with single point, but that's just really hard to keep that pinpoint on your subject. So I don't even recommend this option here. Ah, group point is great for action. This is what I think is best for action photography, and second best for action is using all points. Sometimes this will work just fine. It depends on the types of subjects that you are shooting Now. You can also go in tow, live you on your camera to focus, and there are focusing options down here where you can use single and it's generally kind of slow a little bit faster with the cannon systems. The continuous is very slow in live, you and I don't recommend using that, really for most anybody, and then there is also face recognition and There are some people who are all really up on face detection, and I love it when there's one face when there's two faces and they're changing, it is kind of choosing itself. Now on some cameras, you could press a button and switch faces or have it scroll through the faces. And so it's gonna work in some cases really well. Other cases not so well with a single face. It could do a really good job and some of the systems. And I'm trying to remember if it's Olympus that allows you to focus on left. I write. I think there's a couple of ones out there, and so if somebody's like this, you typically want their right. I, because it's closer to you and focus if they're like this, you want their left eye because it's closer to you. And so you could choose left eye or right eye in focus, or just focus on the face. Depending on how shallow, adept the field that you're working with, and so different tools for solving different problems. Let's look at the muralist focusing options, which are similar with a few more in here. Auto focus. We have single autofocus with a single point. Same thing, very precise. The group point a little bit easier because you have a larger area and then you have all points, which is very, very general in that regard. Getting into well, actually, we have one more. We do have the face detection down here, which can work very well. As I say, I like it with single faces and then we get into continuous. Don't recommend the pinpoint like the small group. And then, if you need to, you can use all if it's very, very erratic motion and then the face detection and I could add in may be subject tracking here where it's just you pick and object. And I'm trying to think Nikon Nikon does a pretty good job of doing a subject tracking where it can actually you lock in on a subject and move it around, and it's just moves right around with it. It really kind of recognizes this shape and color of that object and can do a very good job of that. You can manually focus with a mere list camera, and it's gonna be very similar because it can use all of these things use the digital assistance, the magnification, the Peking, whatever system you like and works for the type of stuff that you're doing now with the mere list camera, you can focus equally well with the viewfinder or the LCD on the back of the camera. But in bright, light situations, it's gonna be easier to see the viewfinder because you're gonna have your eye up to it. You're not gonna have that sunlight hitting the screen the way you do on the LCD on the back of the camera. And so that LCD is great just for an alternate point of view. And you know, some of the cameras have flip out screens that you can get in all sorts of different directions, and that could be really handy with those cameras there.
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