something else to think about is exposure bracketing. We talked about doing this manually before, but a lot of cameras will have an automatic option for you to shoot a variety of exposures at different brightness levels for a variety of reasons, it might be because you're just not sure what the right exposure is going to be. And it's better for you to shoot a wide selection and then take it home and figure it out later. Some of you, though, might be using HDR photography, where you're combining photographs of different exposure values into one completed photograph. So when it comes to exposure bracketing, there is often a lot of different options. So I'm gonna tell you what some of these options are. And then what? I recommend what I use for my photography, at least so you can shoot anywhere from 2 to 9 exposures in these automated bracketing modes. Now you can manually bracket if you want, but automatic bracketing is kind of nice, because what happens is that when you press down on th...
e shutter release, if your cameras in the continuous motor drive, it fires through all the shots as quickly as it can and then stops. So it'll do all five shots, for instance, Just boom, boom, boom, boom, boom And then it stops right away. And in every one of those, it's changing everything that it needs to adjust. So it could be very quick and easy to work with. And so we have three exposures, which is kind of a traditional bracket. But now people are doing all sorts of things with their images, and so you can go from 57 all the way up to nine exposures. The exposure increments. How big a difference from one image to the next do you want With modern digital cameras, it makes very little sense to bracket by 1/3 of a stop. There is so little difference you're not gonna make. You're not going to see much difference. You can adjust modern digital images quite a bit, and so most photographers are bracketing by 1 to stops between exposures. The shooting mode. You can be in program shut, a priority aperture priority or manual in this case, and it depends on what you're doing. I tend to like aperture priority here. If you want, you can add exposure compensation onto the mix. If you're capturing three images and you don't want the middle image at zero evey, you could dial it up to plus one or down to minus two or wherever you want so that you're getting that group of images either brighter or darker than necessary. And you might need to do that depending on the situation that you're in the drive mode could be in single or continuous. I often like it in continuous, for The reason that I mentioned is that the camera will shoot to it very quickly and just automatically stop when I have the camera in the single mode. If I haven't set up for seven exposures, I have to make sure I count 123 because I want to know when I'm done. I don't want to finish it. Six. Go on to take another picture, and that's actually the seventh picture of a bracket. Siri's Some cameras will give you the option of auto cancel, and this depends on who you are. Are you the type of person that likes to bracket a lot, and in which case you would turn this off if you're the type of person like me that just does bracket e Once in a while, I'm gonna bracket once and then turn it off because I don't want to leave it on because in the next five pictures I take are all gonna be of these different exposure levels. And so some cameras will offer that as an option. Some of the more advanced cameras will also give you the option of which order that you can shoot these images in. And there are some cameras that give you a really weird order that when you look at it, once you've downloaded the images, it makes very little sense to me. I'm not gonna name brands here, but there's one of the cameras that shoots zero first and then it shoots the minus one and then the plus one and then the minus two and then the plus two. And when you see these all lined up, you kind of lose track of where you began one and ended the other. So a lot of photographers who do this on a regular basis like to change this to light to dark cause then it's very clear when you shoot a series of five pictures, it's going darker delight, darker delight, darker delight. And it's very easy to separate him. And so the ones in the red squares are the way that I normally set my camera three or five. I'm not done a few seven, I guess if I really needed something wide, Range one. Stop E. V. I usually don't ever go less than that. I like aperture priority because with a bracket Siris of photographs, this generally Onley works with non moving subjects because of it moves. It's going to be in a completely different place in every single photograph. So this works for static type shots. Landscape architecture type shots in depth of field is usually more important in those types of images, and so aperture priority works well. All normally have the exposure compensation in the middle Auto can auto cancel on. That's just because I don't shoot a lot of bracket. If you are doing a lot of bracketing and you're working, let's see your ah working real estate in your photograph in a house and everything you shoot is a seven stop bracket. Siri's Turn that auto cancel off. See that you don't have to keep going back in and turning that feature on All right, so we have a lot of different modes on our camera, and I want to go through my recommendations of what I like and what I don't like. So when it comes to the auto modes there fast and they're easy, but there's no adjustments and that darn pop up flash. If you have any of those pop up flashes, they'll just automatically come off on you. And it's That's a different thing. That's a whole separate subject. We'll talk about that in light, but that could be really annoying. There's a lot of these scene modes that will give you a little bit better results than the standard auto mode because it has a better idea of what you're trying to accomplish in the photograph. And they are what I would also call good cheater modes. If you kind of want to see how the camera would set things up, put it in the sports mode. You'll find out that it uses faster shutter speeds. It turns on the motor drive. It changes the focusing system. OK, I see what it's doing. But what I found in the scene mode is that you don't have the adjustments, and in general it never goes far enough. If I'm shooting something that I need 1/1000 of a second, it's recommending to 50th of a second. And so it never knows. As much as you know, it's just got a little bit better idea of what you're doing. The program mode is fast and easy, and you can use that shift feature to adjust the settings for your particular situation. But they either reset or don't reset, and you may need to use the exposure compensation on that shutter priority. Not one of my favorite, but it does give you an exact shutter speed. So if you know exactly the shutter speed that you want to get, you can use that now. I'll freely tell you I don't like this mode, but I do use it. When we were in Cuba and we're shooting the panning cars coming down the street, the important thing on Pani is getting the exact shutter speed you want. But this was changing right at morning light and the light was changing. And so I said, Just dial in your shutter speed, everybody, and let's get this shutter speed right, and it was working really well in that situation. And so it's not that I don't recommend it. It's just I don't recommend it a large percentage of the time. You may need exposure compensation without, of course, and you can accidentally exceed the range that your camera has on it. Aperture priority is kind of my travel mode when I don't know what the next photo I'm gonna take is, it's fast. It's pretty safe. It's ready to go. I may need to jump in there with a little exposure compensation, but generally it's it's pretty good. In most situations, Full manual is gonna get you exactly what you wanted. The specific settings in all the exposure values takes a little bit of set up. Time takes a little bit of thinking. And so when it comes down to it, for most serious photographers, manual is the way to go. If you have the time to get that set up, aperture priority works pretty well, and from time to time yeah, you can throw your Cameron the program mode if you have to
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Full-length class: Fundamentals of Photography with John Greengo
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As a photographer, you will need to master the technical basics of the camera and form an understanding of the kind of equipment you need. The Fundamentals of Digital Photography will also teach something even more important (and crucial for success) - how to bring your creative vision to fruition.
Taught by seasoned photographer John Greengo, the Fundamentals of Digital Photography places emphasis on quality visuals and experiential learning. In this course, you’ll learn:
- How to bring together the elements of manual mode to create an evocative image: shutter speed, aperture, and image composition.
- How to choose the right gear, and develop efficient workflow.
- How to recognize and take advantage of beautiful natural light.
John will teach you to step back from your images and think critically about your motivations, process, and ultimate goals for your photography project. You’ll learn to analyze your vision and identify areas for growth. John will also explore the difference between the world seen by the human eye and the world seen by the camera sensor. By forming an awareness of the gap between the two, you will be able to use your equipment to its greatest potential.