Flash & Lighting
So next up, we're going to get into a few flash accessories here. So we're gonna talk more about lighting in an upcoming section, but a little word on some, all those additional flashing it's that you can add to your camera. So if you don't have a flash, we do have a little low in very simple flashes, which are kind of nice just to add a little bit of fill light straight in front of the camera. They they're not very powerful, so I don't really recommend them. In most cases, I think the mid range flash is pretty good for most people who want some versatility and a little bit more power. If you're photographing social events, weddings, things like that where you need more power, you need to use wide angle lenses where you're spreading the light out more, or you're gonna be shooting a lot of shots where you're gonna be shooting in sequence. The power systems on this are a little bit faster in their recycling time, and they will also have some special effects modes in there. We'll talk a l...
ittle bit about in the flash section, but for most people, I think the mid range is where you're gonna be looking for a basic flash. But if you really get into it, the advanced ones are very nice and offer a lot of features If you get any sort of flash. One of the most important things for getting better quality flash is getting the flash off the camera. If you want to do that in the simplest way, you want to get one of the T TL courts, and this is an offshoot cord that allows you to shoot fully automatic with the flash away from the camera. And it's just about as long as you can reach with your hand. Or if you want to mount it on one of these brackets. Here, there's a number of different flash brackets. This is an older one I have. I don't think they sell this one anymore, but it's got a nice would handle on. It feels good in the hand, and then what it enables me to do is to rotate the camera so the lens stays in the same position and we'll talk more about that in the flash settings. The flash diffuser is a way for you to increase the light source. I got one of those over here somewhere, right here on this one allows me to point the flash up in here. It gets the flash a little bit further away from the camera. It also spreads it out in a slight manner. And so this is going to get you a little bit softer shadows around your subject's face, for instance, and so I prefer to use this. It decreases the power of the flash. But if I'm relatively close, then powers not the major issue. It's getting a nice soft light that's important. Very special tool here. This is for bird photographers. In most cases, it's where you want to throw the light in a very narrow beam. Far forward. I was out at one of our local parks here, Discovery Park, and there was a family of owls there, and this is where a flash helped illuminate thes birds Under low light in the forest, you're able to get a little catch light in their eyes and see their feathers and them just a little bit better, and you don't have the normal problem with flash with a shadow on the back wall cause there's no wall right behind him, and so you don't get to see those shadows quite the same way. And so that can really help on subjects that are much further out away from there. The flash bracket is something that I found very handy because when you don't have this, when you shoot verticals, the flash gets thrown off to the side, where it looks less attractive. Having the flash top and center inconsistent in your photographs will help out. And so these rotating flash brackets can be very, very handy to keep the lens in the right place. And I've shot a few weddings in my time, and I know you all know about Uncle Bob. Hopefully you know about Uncle Bob. Uncle Bob is the uncle at the wedding who happens to have a professional DSLR and wants to take photos and kind of wants to be the professional photographer there. But when you have one of these devices, Uncle Bob shrinks, Downing moves away because there is no doubt when you step into the situation that you are the photographer in that case, and I know it sounds a little corny, but it works. It works I cast you, but it also gets you better quality shots, which is the real reason you're using it. And so getting that flash in a high centered position. So it's even for horizontal and verticals and getting you better light. For those of you who do want to get into macro getting light in close come be a real problem. And so they do make special macro lights that can met actually mount on the front of your lens. And when we get into a light, we're gonna talk a lot about distance. How far away is the light from the light from the subject is illuminating and you want to get that light in really close for power reasons because you need that power re in there. And so this is how you get the flash as close as possible without getting it in the way of the camera. And so these air available for many of the different lenses that are out on the market
Try a Fast Class – now available to all Creator Pass subscribers! Fast Classes are shortened “highlight” versions of our most popular classes that let you consume 10+ hours in about 60 minutes. We’ve edited straight to the most popular moments, actionable techniques, and profound insights into bite-sized chunks– so you can easily find and focus on what matters most to you. (And of course, you can always go back to the full class for a deep dive into your favorite parts.)
Full-length class: Fundamentals of Photography with John Greengo
SUBSCRIBE TO CREATOR PASS and cue up this class and other FAST CLASS classes anytime.
As a photographer, you will need to master the technical basics of the camera and form an understanding of the kind of equipment you need. The Fundamentals of Digital Photography will also teach something even more important (and crucial for success) - how to bring your creative vision to fruition.
Taught by seasoned photographer John Greengo, the Fundamentals of Digital Photography places emphasis on quality visuals and experiential learning. In this course, you’ll learn:
- How to bring together the elements of manual mode to create an evocative image: shutter speed, aperture, and image composition.
- How to choose the right gear, and develop efficient workflow.
- How to recognize and take advantage of beautiful natural light.
John will teach you to step back from your images and think critically about your motivations, process, and ultimate goals for your photography project. You’ll learn to analyze your vision and identify areas for growth. John will also explore the difference between the world seen by the human eye and the world seen by the camera sensor. By forming an awareness of the gap between the two, you will be able to use your equipment to its greatest potential.