Nikon® D750 Fast Start

Lesson 13 of 16

Nikon® D750 Menu: Setup Menu

 

Nikon® D750 Fast Start

Lesson 13 of 16

Nikon® D750 Menu: Setup Menu

 

Lesson Info

Nikon® D750 Menu: Setup Menu

So next up is basic settings in your camera a lot of these things you're going to set once be done with a few of them you'll need to come back to the first one is thief format memory card this is something that I do on a regular basis before I head out on a new shoot I want to make sure that I've got all the data backed up stored on that merry card and I cleared it off so I have a clean line of communication so it's something that's good to do on a regular basis if you are using or interested in using the you one and you two settings, this is where you can save the setting, so what you do is set the camera up the way you want to aperture priority matrix metering white balance otto come to the user setting and make all those settings don't forget about all those focus settings which focusing mode how many focusing points you're using your going to be able to save all of those into the user one and user to setting if you don't like what's there right now you can go in and reset them back...

to their factory default settings the brightness of the lcd on the back of the camera should normally be left at zero, but you can change it to something brighter or darker if you want to color balance you can adjust this if you need to if if you feel like the color is a little wonky on your lcd and you needed a little bit cooler a little bit warmer, you can adjust it hopefully you won't need to do that. We mentioned at the very beginning of this class that when you turn the camera on, it goes to an automatic censor cleaning system and that'll clean off most of the dust most of the time if you want to, you can tell it to turn on right here, which is actually kind of done because if you want to clean it, the fastest way would be just to turn the camera off and turn it back on and it's going to go through the cleaning cycle, but it is in here if you need it to be. If you do have mohr dust on the sensor that is not coming off with the cameras auto sensor cleaner, then you're going to have to do it manually and there's a couple steps to it. The first step is to use one of these rocket blowers you gotta take the lens off you're going to put the camera in for its manual cleaning and this is in the lock me up for cleaning the mere locks up the shutter opens up and you'll be able to see the sensor you blow air in to the sensor using this type of blower, not compressed air and hopefully knock off any dust that's kind of sticking on the sensor. Sometimes that doesn't work, and you need to actually sweep it off with one of many different mechanisms that are available out there. And so one option is this swab and liquid liquid in what you do is you put a couple of drops of alcohol under the swab, and then you wipe it across the sensor to clean off any deaths that is on the sensor, so hopefully you won't need to go to step two. Not everyone feels comfortable with that, but it is an option for people who really want to get in there and clean that sensor off. Another option for people who use the nikon software that comes with the camera is if you have an image that looks like this, you have a serious dust problem. What I recommend is shooting a white piece of paper so that the camera can clearly see where that dust is. Then the cameras computer software program will automatically map and clone out where those dust spots are, so that you end up with a nice, clean image. The main disadvantage to this is that you do have to use the nikon software in order to do this, and this is something that you could do out in the field, and it might really saved the day if you're on a long trip long ways away from any sort of cleaning supplies and repair facility, you shoot a white piece of paper and then you can clean it all up later in this regard scrolling down flicker reduction if you have your camera in live you you might get a little bit of flickering with def for types of fluorescent lights. If you d'oh, you can go in here and change it from fifty to sixty hertz normally in the auto mode, you won't notice any problem time zone in date adjusting for your local time zone remember it does not adjust when you fly to a new time zone, nor did does it adjust in daylight savings time situations. Language for the menu is set here auto image rotation this is a little different than the image rotation we talked about before here the cameron knows when you shoot verticals and we'll rotate him when you download them to your computer, which is convenient and we'll save you a lot of time and so you are most likely going to want to leave that turn on. If you want to check your battery life do so here you'll see your charge percentage you'll see the number of shots remaining on there as well as the overall battery age and life of your batteries in a new battery or does it need to be replaced if you wanted to, you could go in and add individual comments to particular photographs. If you're traveling and you photograph somebody and said that you're going to email them a photo, you could add their email information directly into the metadata of that specific photo copyright information allows you to put your name in your camera. This is kind of cool for anybody who, uh, he's worried about their camera getting stolen and wanting toe identify it later on. You could put your name in here, and my guess is that the thugs who stole your camera when it even know this is in there, and if they police recovered it, they could find your name in the camera and possibly be able to find you to return it. So I think that's probably a good thing to put either your name or your email or website information so that somebody could get ahold of you because all of this will be attributed to the metadata of those photos that are taken with the camera. If you were to have a group of the seven fifties, wouldn't that be nice to have a whole group of theseventy fifties? Well, there are some movie production companies that will purchase batches of cameras, and they want to set all the cameras up exactly the same, and so they'll get one camera adjusted exactly the way they want it, they'll load all those settings onto a memory card, and then they'll put that memory card in all of the cameras so that they know that all the cameras are set up exactly the same. Next one is our virtual horizon, and this will show up on the lcd in the back of the camera. This will allow us to see if we're pointing our camera level or forward tipping it forward or back, and this is kind of an awkward place to come and get this information what's much more handy is if you are wanting to see this to set up the function button on the front of the camera, to be a one step short cut to this virtual horizon. That way you can get it with a single press of the button. If you want to use those older nikon lenses I talked about before with the meter coupling level on the camera, you can use the older lenses, but one of the downsides is that it doesn't record the camera doesn't record, which lends you used to the metadata. This allows you to go in and have a grouping of lenses that you've selected, what the focal length and what the maximum aperture is just simply for the convenience of that information being passed on to the metadata of that particular image. If you own a fast lands a seventy two, two hundred two point eight so fast lands a one thirty five to a three hundred to eight, a fifty eight millimeter one point for these are all very fast lenses, and sometimes the focusing on them is not exactly perfect and there's a number of reasons why this might happen, and it basically has to do with the tolerances of the lens and the camera. We hope that everything is focused perfectly, but sometimes the entire unit, the body and the lens there is going to front focus, which means focus in front of our subject, or it might back focus, and this is an area that we would normally have to send into nikon repair tow have fixed, but if we can figure out how much of our problem it is, we can fix it in camera with a fine, too. So if you want to figure this out, you're going to need a target, something to focus on, and you're going to need something else to measure whether you are focused in front of or behind that subject, there are devices that you can buy that about eighty bucks in this case where you are focusing on the subject on the left and you're measuring on the right. I'm a very thrifty person, I like doing things on my own, and so I just use a ruler and a yardstick positioned in the same way I'm going to focus on the ruler on the left, and then I'm going to measure on the yard stick on the right, whether I'm focused in front of or behind my subject and I'm going to take a look and I'm going to make adjustments in the fine tune you khun go twenty increments, and I really don't know how far an increment is. It depends on the lands, but for minus twenty two plus twenty, and you can see that when I met zero I am slightly very slightly by about a sixteenth of an inch front focusing, and so in this case, I might adjust my camera, tow a plus five to make sure that my camera is focusing exactly where it is supposed to be. Now, if you would like to do this yourself, it requires a little bit of thyme and a little bit of set up. You're gonna want to have your camera, all of your fast lenses and everything in order to take very sharp pictures, a ruler and a cable release are also handy in there is long with the yardstick you want to set everything to get the shallow a step, the field and the sharpest possible picture. From there, you want to manually unfocused the lands, let the camera focus on your subject. Take the sharpest picture you can mere lock up in some cases, play back that image, zoom in and check to see if your camera is focusing where it is supposed to be because I say this takes a little bit of time and you may need a half hour to an hour to go through and check a couple of lenses. You have to be very careful about this process, but if you are consistently getting out of focus pictures and they're constantly front or back focused, this is where and how you do it. If you're gonna hook your camera up to an hd tv, you could have your hd tv's remote control the forward and back of your slide show, and so you could actually turn that on if you want to hear location data is going to be important for the gps unit that you might hook up to it. So the gp one, eh, is that gps unit that will add gp coordinates to your metadata. And if you do have this plugged in and you're going to need to go in here and set, some standards have to have a little set up to make sure that that's picking up the data right and transferring it to the computer. And you can also have your internal clock set from that gps information, which is kind of cool, but I will warn you that the gp one eh does expend more battery life in your camera, so you're going to get much fewer shots off of each charge. All right? We're gonna try a little experimentation here, folks, the camera has wifi and we're going to do a little wifi experiment so I can show you what we need to dio because you're going to be able to control this camera from your phone. And so what we're going to try to do is get this hooked up, so let me just walk you through the steps that I am going to go through here in the classroom. The first thing that you need to do that I have already done is I have downloaded the wifi app nikon wireless mobile utility, which is available wherever you get your abs from there, you need to turn the wifi on in your camera, then you need to go to your phone and turn on the wifi signal that says nikon. And then you go back to the nikon app and you get that turn on, so step one for me, I've already done so let's go to step two and I'm gonna turn this camera around so you guys can see what I'm doing and I need to go into the menu system and I need to go down to the setup menu and I need to look for wifi and I'm gonna go lips wrong one wifi there we go network connection is turned off. I'm going to go in and enable that hit ok? And so looks like it's triggering. Now I'm gonna go over to my phone let's hope I don't get a phone call and I am going to go into my settings and to my wife, I turn on my wife, I and hopefully it's going to pick up something that says night gone, we got a lot of creative, live stuff I saw a nikon there it is I was actually practicing with it this morning, so it's kind of recognized it. And now that I've got the check mark, it is hooked up, so I'm going to get out of my settings and I'm going to go over to my nikon wireless mobility can't I think we're good up here? I'm going to change this to aperture or I'm gonna change it to program and we're going to change it to take photos and I hear the camera turning on this looks pretty good, and so now I'm going tio I don't know how to do this, so I'm gonna leave this right here and I'm going to re position the camera and you're going to see what life looks like for me and I'm not sure if I can turn the sideways here so this is what I look like you say hi to everybody so you can see there's a little bit of delay may be you cannot but I can zoom back and forth and if I want to take a picture I can take a picture with this and so there we go and it's downloading the files to my phone right now and so I'm gonna go back up top and if I want to view photos I can view pictures on my camera I can view him on my phone I'm going to go to view pictures on the camera and so this is pictures that I've been taking with this and what's my latest picture right here wait maybe that's not my like this picture up here's some of the pictures I was practicing with earlier today on the camera where's my recent picture there we go and I can zoom in I caught him just before kind of justice you were raising your hands up just a little bit there and so that's the idea you can view pictures you can shoot pictures you have a limited amount of control it's not the best app in the world but it does allow you to see what's going on actually I wanted to go back I wanted to top I wanted to go take photos so now I can put this in and so throw this back here and so I'm going to throw a ringer on the guys in the back room I'm going to actually walk up to him out like a photo and I'll come back and so they can't see what I'm doing it with my phone here but I can look here and we can see here snap the button look at the camera take another one and now it's getting in the picture so you can see what's going on a little bit more easily and there's all sorts of creative uses that I'm sure that you can find on using this and I'm just happiest could be that it actually worked in class I have ah jinx with wifi and it just hates me uh so I'm gonna turn this off I'm going to go into my settings on my phone and just to be safe I'm going to turn off the wifi completely and I'm disengaging it here so I go on to the camera let's open up the menu here and I'm going to turn off the wifi system if we could get on to the shot of the back of the camera and so just make sure you go into the wifi and turn this off and disable it when you're done because this does use up a a considerable amount of battery power that you generally are not going to want to have to deal with. So wifi does work it's pretty easy, I would say but it is also fairly limited in what it can do but it's a cool feature to have and it's the new cool feature to have and not many cameras have that wifi option at least on the full frame cameras so that's y fi thank goodness that worked. Okay, there is a network option that's probably great out and that's only going to turn on when you have this four hundred dollars communication unit and this will enable you to shoot wirelessly from your camera, transmitting the pictures directly to your computer. It's a little on the slow side so it's not quite instantaneous takes the wildest end of raw file across that signal, but it can be done if you do want to shoot directly to a computer. Conformity marking. Um this is one of the dumbest things on the menu has just got a couple of logos of companies that have done something with the making of the camera. And then finally we have our firmware version. Let me check the firmware of this camera that we have here. This is the software that operates the camera and this camera does indeed have the latest software because we have version one point o one you can go to nyu cons website, and you can check to see what is the most current software running. And if you don't have the most current firm where on your camera, you can download the software or firmware to your computer at home, you khun, transfer it onto a memory card. Put the memory card in the camera, and your camera will recognize it and updated by coming here to the firm firmware version. And occasionally they add features. They make little adjustments. They make little improvements and it's all for free. All you have to do is just go to the site and download the information.

Class Description


Learn how to take advantage of the Nikon® D750’s capabilities and take great shots. Join John Greengo for a complete introduction to the Nikon® D750 in this Fast Start.

You’ll learn why the Nikon® D750 is the go-to camera for still and multimedia photographers and how you can get the most out all of its features and functions. John will teach you how to:

  • Ensure you come away with a high resolution image every time you shoot
  • Take advantage of the 51 points of focus within each frame
  • Harness the power of the camera’s impressive frame rates

The Nikon® D750 Fast Start tutorial will prepare you to take advantage of each and every one of your camera’s buttons, menus, and features.

Reviews

jessicasummerford
 

This class was well worth the money. If you invest in such a great camera, you are clearly invested in your craft. The best way to enhance that investment is to learn the camera top to bottom so you can use it to its full potential. Thank you John, this was so helpful! Now it is time to get out there and practice!