Nikon D750 Operation
Just to kind of put it all together, I have this last little section called operation where we're going to go through and talk about how do you actually put all these things together that we've been talking about? So for most type of shooting situations here's my basic checklist first off, you want to make sure you have a charged and installed your battery? You've got a good memory card in there that has been formatted and has the maximum amount of space available on it. You have come to terms with j peg and raw you know where you want your camera set. It's not set on small j peg I've seen that in some of my classes you want to kind of take a quick look through some of those men used to make sure that you haven't been tweaking with anything unusual on your last menu shoot, and then if you're going to be going on a big trip, you might want to check that sensor to make sure it's clean before you leave the house. Or but before you leave the city or place that you live because it's going t...
o be much easier to fix in a nice, clean, sterile environment rather than being out in the middle of safari in africa, for instance, so what are the settings and how would I set this camera for a variety of situations so this is kind of your final test follow along hands on camera if you want. These are the ten most common settings that most photographers are going to be adjusting in their camera. If you wanted to set this camera up in a super simple mode when I say super simple, I'm talking about handing the camera to a stranger type simple how would I set it up? Programme mode sets, shutter speeds and aperture so you don't need to worry about him the so you could just set it on auto and the camera, we'll figure that part of it out. Make sure your exposure compensation is said it zero has a good starting point. Matrix metering is gonna work in so many situations. It's just a very good place to be auto white balance does a great job under many different types of light and will probably get the job done just right. Focus mode f s means it's going to focus singularly one time on a subject and then stop f mode in auto is going to look at all fifty one, focusing points and choose the group that is closest to the camera doesn't always work exactly as you want, but in general it's the safest of all the moats to go to and then the drive mode you would shoot one single shot at a time. And so as we go through this, remember that the last two pages on the pdf are dedicated to these operational guidelines and so if you want to review this this is also in the pdf I have this exact visual in the pdf as well as a little bit of text about the concepts and reasons behind setting this but let's go ahead and run through this real time so the next type of scenario might be a landscape scenario and in this situation I hope you're on a tripod you may not be but I hope you are you want to get lots of depth of field and everything in focus how how do we set the camera up to do this first off I like to be in manual so that I have very complete control over all the settings first setting that I'm going to set is an s o one hundred because I want to get the best image quality from there. I'm probably going to want a lot of depth of field something like eleven sixteen, twenty two depends on the exact situation, the shutter speed not so important if I'm not shooting us moving subject and I'm on a tripod if I am choosing is a one hundred and f sixteen I'm probably going to end up at a slower shutter speed but this will be variable according to the light levels we don't use exposure compensation because we are in full manual and I'll be honest with you folks we're going to leave the matrix metering turned on because it does a great job and white balance does a great job in auto and I'll only change those if I really see a problem so we're just gonna leave those there for the rest of the time since nothing is moving we want to be in single focus and this photo faras where we focus we want to be very precise so we're going to choose a single point and maybe in the middle it may be off to the side but we want to be very precise about where we focus towards the middle of the seed not the closest not the furthest away the drive speed we have a couple of options if we have a cable release we could be using the single shot if we're in a reasonable shutter speed at one eighth of a second I would either want to be used using live view or perhaps the mirror up mode in that case to get the sharpest pictures so let's move on to the next type of shot which would be portrait photography and so in this case we have subjects where they're moving around a little bit and we need faster shutter speeds we're also trying to blur the background a little bit so our subjects stand out from that background what we're going to do here is we're going to stay in manual I like to be a manual so that I can be very precise about our settings here. One of the more important things is getting that shallow depth of field, so two, eight, two f one point one point for these are all great settings for that I shutter speed fast enough to stop my hand holding of the camera and their movement as well, probably going to be one hundred twenty fifth of a second or faster. I'm going to want to have my eyes o one hundred, but I will bump it up as necessary. According to the light levels. We'll go ahead and leave matrix metering set as well as auto white balance as long as my subjects are for the most part, stationary there not moving towards me, I want single focus focusses once so I can re compos and I'll choose a single point so I could make sure that the eyes are in focus and as far as the drive mode, you could leave it in the continuous mode the single mode uh either one that you prefer, depending on what style of shooting that you have next type of shooting is action photography, so here, obviously we're going to need faster shutter speeds and we're going to need to set up the focusing system for capturing things that are moving, I do also in this situations like manual exposure so long as the lightest not changing, I could be very precise about those shutter speeds and apertures here you're going to need a faster shutter speed five hundredth of a second or faster in most cases and this is where it becomes very valuable having a lens that goes down to two point eight and so if you have those that's where I'd probably be at for most action photography, I would prefer to be at s o one hundred, but the reality is with faster shutter speeds, you're going to need a little bit higher so often starting at four hundred and going up depending on how low the light levels are. Well, go ahead and stick with matrix metering will stick with auto white balance and one of the most important changes here is the focus mode to a f c for continuous focusing this way, the camera will continue to adjust and track the action of those subjects as they're moving and as faras the area mode. My favorite is nine point, but twenty one point is very good mode you may have to goto a fifty one point if your subject is moving very erratically over the frame and so it depends a little bit on the type of action that you are shooting as to which one is best and this of course is probably where you're gonna want to have it either in the high speed continuous or perhaps the low speed continuous option let's do one final one which I call basic photography and this is where you don't really know what your next picture is and you need the camera set up in a in a generic but somewhat manually adjustable mode for any type of photography and so I do this for a lot for travel photography I'll be an aperture priority I will have an aperture that is reasonably fast maybe an f four set and according to the light levels I'll start off it I s o one hundred but then I will adjust it upwards as I work into lower light levels if I go into a market or inside of a building for inst I'll make sure that my exposure compensation is on zero unless it needs to be changed for a particular scene that matrix metering as I say is generally very good. So is the auto white balance if there was a problem all a justin but normally I'll just leave them there for focusing as long as I'm not normally shooting action I'll leave it in the single focusing mode that way I can focus on a subject and recompose and I'll usually leave just a single point that way I could be very precise about what the camera is choosing to focus on and normally, I will just leave the camera in the single mode. Low speed, continuous might be nice if you think that you might be shooting a little bit of action here in there. So, that's, how I would set the camera in a nice, simple, basic photography mode. And if you have stayed with us all through this, all I can say is, congratulations. You are now a nikon d seven. Fifty. Expert.
Learn how to take advantage of the Nikon® D750’s capabilities and take great shots. Join John Greengo for a complete introduction to the Nikon D750 in this Fast Start.
You’ll learn why the Nikon D750 is the go-to camera for still and multimedia photographers and how you can get the most out all of its features and functions.
John will teach you how to:
- Ensure you come away with a high-resolution image every time you shoot
- Take advantage of the 51 points of focus within each frame
- Harness the power of the camera’s impressive frame rates
The Nikon D750 Fast Start tutorial will prepare you to take advantage of each and every one of your camera’s buttons, menus, and features.