You know, I realize that when we went through a little live demo that I was changing some stuff on the phone up there that folks at home couldn't see and so I thought I was just cover a just a little bit more wifi with the camera so I've already established a wifi connection from the camera to the film by pressing the wifi button and hitting the appropriate but is that we talked about earlier but let me bring my phone over to where the cameras so that we could get a shot with maybe both of them together so that you can see the application on the phone and so this is the loom ix link panasonic app and what you can see is by touching on the screen I can get it to refocus on an object in the foreground you can get the camera to focus on an object in the background I can of course take a picture if I want there is a set button down here for going in and controlling come on there we go a few of the basics settings on the camera so we could go into program shift for instance we could shoot a...
picture at one point for well we just did let's ah change this by scrolling I can get this to scroll come on there we go and that's changing the aperture and shutter speed combination and f sixteen that looks pretty good and I'm going to hit the return button back here and I will shoot a picture here I can try another version of it focusing in the foreground there we go and shooting a picture and I could go back into play back down here and if I go to the bottom of the list let's see where are my pictures did I get everything set right and so we could see a shallow depth of field I think we have some dark pictures in here why are they dark what was going on in better double check to make sure that my settings were correct return to the main screen here and one of the things that we can do actually want to show you in live control here was there is a menu setting down here that is going to go through a whole bunch of different controls as you can see in here and what I was going through when I was setting the time limit for the video record and believe it is tio video recording time down here and I could set how long the camera was going to record for so for instance I'll do a five second recording time right here I'll return we'll return just go backto live control down here on the bottom and I can start shooting video by hitting the record button up on the top and I'm going to record for five seconds over here, there's two seconds remaining and it went through the video if I go over to the camera at this point in press play, I can go up and up, and we now have our five second video that re recorded, so it is unfortunate that we can't stop recording but weaken specify how long we want to record, so I think that kind of covers a couple more bases on the wifi system, so I'm going to turn off the wifi and we're going to jump back into the class where we were before, and we are jumping onto the back side of the camera now and talk a little bit about the touch screen, so in the bottom right hand side of the touch screen is a little arrow. When you hit that tab, you're going to open up a little kind of side window so that you can get in and change additional options on the camera. Let me see if I have that available right now on the camera so it's a little live demo, and so you'll see the little arrow over here on the right hand side. When we touch that, it gives us options to additional features we have our function six and seven we have all the other functions up here, of course, and we have the touch shutter on here, which is allowing us to focus and if we open up this touch shutter weaken turn it on or off so right now it's taking a picture because if you will see it's got the yellow shutter release and we can turn that off so that we don't take a picture it's simply focusing on that area so that's a little bit more about the touch screen so back on the back of the camera we obviously have the viewfinder that we look through and if you're going to use this a lot you mate want to check your doctor to make sure that it is focused properly for your eyes what you want to do is look through the viewfinder just turn that dr till it's as clear as it could possibly be it does get bumped from some from time to time so if you are looking to the viewfinder and it's blurry that's the first thing I would check there has been a few complaints that the view finder is not as clear and it's kind of hard to see the entire viewfinder clear it once it'll depend a little bit on your eye position but definitely get that doctor fixed as best she arises possible the cameras has to electronic displays in the viewfinder and then on the lcd in the back of the camera and it automatically switches back and forth using the ice sensor which detects if you are close to the camera now this well, detect if you put a finger or anything else close to the camera and for some people it's annoying to have it turned on and off every time something becomes very close to it and you can turn it off in the custom menu page seven of eight under the ice sense or simply turning it on and off. One of the other things that I recommend is changing the sensitivity of it down to a low so that it doesn't change until you get right up to it and there's a high and low setting that you can access within that menu. Sending us well on the left is your function five button, which is your live view finder, which switches between turning the live view finder on or switching into an auto mode between the I level finder and the lcd finder on the backs and just press that button a repeated number of times. And this camera has a very good system where if you turn on the I level view finder, it's still uses the eye sensor and so that if you take the camera away from your eye it will power down and not use battery power except for when you are looking through the camera. So it's very efficient design on this and so play around a little bit with that and get it tweet just the way you like it now, if you find that you aren't switching back and forth between the viewfinders and you have him set the way you want to without need of that button, you can, of course, go back into the function button set and pre or re program that button to do something else that you find more useful, all righty. So right next to that is the playback buttons, so let's, talk a little bit about playing back images and movies in this camera. First off, you could view your playback images or movies through either the lcd or the view finder on the back of the camera, you can use the front dial to rotate through images, and you can use the back dial as well to go through images, either by turning it or by pressing it from side to side. If you want to shoot or you want to play back video, you need to press up on the button to access that this camera does something a little bit unusual, and that is when you're shooting video or when you shoot a burst of images it groups, um, kind of into a stack, you might say, and as an example, let me do an in class tests that I haven't planned on doing both see how this works here. All right, so I want to shoot a high speed burst of images, and I think I still have it on super high speed, so what I'm gonna do is I'm going to do a panning burst across our live room right now, and I'm going to show you what it looks like when we play it back, and so let me make sure we got this set, right? And I'm going to bump up the ice, so so I get a little bit faster shutter speed, because I'm gonna be moving fairly quickly. Who, when we might get to see the effect of an electronic shelter in this as well. So let's go to the camera on camera, and so I'm gonna hit the playback button, and I'm gonna go back to the previous image, which I believe was a still image that I shot so you can see that you can go from image to image. I've taken one hundred fifteen images, and most of them were in this last little group here there's thirty two pictures and you'll notice that when I just came to this appear at the top, it says first play press up, so if I press up, it'll show me each one of my images in a siri's, and if you everything looks a little slanted, this is the problem with an electronic shutter they play through that again you'll notice when we get over to russ it looks like he's leaning to his right quite a bit here and all the walls are a little bit off in here so when you do shoot a burst of images they are kind of grouped in that way and that's how you see them you can stop and look at any one of those individual images if you want to but if they're they're grouped together and it's a little bit different than and many of the other cameras on the market another option is being able to zoom in or out and you can use the back dial to do that you can also be doing a lot of these things on screen is on the touch screen as well and then of course deleting your images it's going to be with the garbage can button which is also known as the function for button on the back of the camera now you can also use the touch screen as well to swipe pinch and tap so let's go ahead and do a little live demo of that let me play back in image let's find one that's uh more interesting than the previous one okay so in this particular case if I wantto go from image damage we have the swiping to get from shot to shot and if we want to zoom in we can just do the pinch and move around and we could take a look at this little old projector that we have little slide projector on the table here and you can see the magnification down in the left weaken jump to the dials and we can use those as well and so whatever system you like to play back whether it's the dials or the touch screen both work quite well in my opinion and if you do want to change the display of how much information you see you could hit the display but let me do a little live demo and that one as well. So it's uh make sure I am in the playback moat and if we hit the display button over here you can see there's different sets of information that's the history graham just a plain old screen and then other groups of different information and so just feel free to hit that display button at any time whether you're in live you or you're in the playback mode because it's going to change the different screens that you're going to see. And so here the different options of screens that you're going to see info detailed info hissed a gram no info and highlights the one I didn't show you here was highlights I don't have that turned on yet in the camera it's not turned on when you get it out of the box and what it's going to show you? Is this going to show you little blink ease of you're over exposed pixels? This is a warning for a lot of people that they've over exposed the image. Some images will have overexposed pixels and it's just the way the the shot is, and it doesn't mean it's a bad image is just a warning that you may want to double check your exposure to see if you have got it correct, because you may want to keep some detail in those highlights, and if so, you'll need to adjust your exposure in some way. So those were the common controls that you're going to be using for playback, alright, moving over kind of under the right hand side. We have our focus mode lever, and this is a pretty important one, so let's, talk a little bit more in depth about it if you want to flip it on over here. To the left hand side, it is start with a f s, which stands for single focus, which means the camera will focus on a subject and it will stop it's, a place that most basic photographers would leave their cam because they're focusing on subjects that are not moving if you were going to be shooting action subjects that are moving on a regular basis. I coach a cross country team and so I showed a lot of runners running right towards me and so the siri's that you saw a little bit earlier when we're talking about the drive mode, I had the camera in the a f c c stands for continuous and it is continually tracking from subject to subject, and here is where we get to the feature that I've been trying to get explained and nobody seems to know how to explain it a f f stands for flexible focus, and what happens is that you have to go into the menu system and you have to choose whether when you flip the dial to this left hand position, the camera is in the s or the a f f position you have to choose one or the other pan with my camera. Let me go ahead and do that live right here. I'm not sure if I put it in there yet or not. Let me check my notes, I need to go to custom page number two of eight and a f f I'm going to change it to a f f now and a f f is strangely similar to a f c, they're both looking for subjects that are changing in distance and focusing on them and in order to help illustrate. Wait now illustrate is not the right word here I'm not sure what the right word is to help understand I'm going to use this microphone and I'm gonna let you listen to what the lens is doing and hopefully it might help out in general what's happening in in in the nfc mode is the camera is constantly looking for new focus and it jumps around and the problem with it is that even though a subject maybe the stationery in front of it it's constantly trying to check to see if that subject is moving and it's adjusting focus to see if it can find a better spot in a f f it will find the focus and it will lock in on it and if the subject changes dramatically then it will change and then it will lock in again. So to start with let me put this in a f c I'm gonna have to loosen up the camera here so I can get the microphone held properly and what I'm gonna do is I'm going to go back and forth and I'm gonna have to be very quiet so that you can listen to the lens working that see if this works hopefully you can hear the lens kind of wavering a little bit trying to hump that focus down okay, so what I'm going to do now is I'm going to switch it to a f f and listen to how it settles in and doesn't change, and so I think this ff mode would be a little bit better for shooting video, because what happens is that the camera or the audio excuse me, the focusing, I'll find something to talk about here, the focusing will kind of settle in, and what it seems to happen is in the ff mode. It requires a bigger change of focus for it to decide to start moving up t change its focus in the f c it's, just constantly neurotically changing and adjusting focus, which one is best for different types of scenarios? Well, I think if you're shooting sports or something that is moving in a predictable fact, fashion on a regular basis, a f c is definitely the way to go if you were to have somebody who's standing, and then they walk and they change positions, maybe it's a model it's moving around a set, I think the f f might be a better situation if you were in a like a wedding scenario reception party, where people are kind of moving around a little bit, probably the ff, because the focus will find its spot, it will lock in if the subject moves, it will then adjust, but while it's locked in, its not wavering, and when you get that wavering? It looks like a little bit of jeter because linds seems to be moving back and forth a little bit, and so it might improve the video a little bit in that case. And so hopefully that is a good explanation of how those two modes work because it's not very clear in the instruction manual quick question on the fc modes jesse b is wandering in which high speed stills modes fc functions the the high speed, twenty frames per second, and then going off my best memory, which I'm pretty sure of will not work in the continuous twenty frames per second thie continuous, and I guess I should have mentioned this. So thank you for the question of clarify a couple of things, one of the problems with this camera, beyond the fact that it doesn't have a face detection focusing system that a lot of the sl ours have is that the viewfinder blacks out quite a bit when you have the camera at a high speed, even at six frames per second, and I was trying to do some panning, tracking a subject, and it was just very difficult because there is so much blackout in the viewfinder and so there's a number of things that kind of shut down as you get into those higher speeds on the motor drive in one of those at the highest is the focusing a twenty frames per second it's just not going to in fact, it locks exposure, it locks focus and you see no live update ings, you will see pictures that were just taken, but you don't see any live update of what you're looking at. It sounds great. Thank you. All right, yeah, let's move on then. And what else do we have? We are going to switch over to manual focus, so in the camera we could manually focus and we're going to a little live demo here on this one as well. So let me get the camera back in position. We have couple of subjects to focus on, and so I'm going to flip the switch over to manual focus, and when you start to manual focus, the camera jumps into a magnified view, and if you want to adjust where that view is, you can move it around using the touch screen. So now I'm going to focus on the subject a little bit closer to us, make sure I'm getting this in focus right there, and after a second or two, actually several seconds after I hit the shuttle release, it will jump back to its position here now, when I turn the focusing rain, I can change the magnification. In the back of the camera and so I think this is four times eight times in sixteen times no it's four times five times so excuse me let me try this again four times five times ten times magnification and so for anyone who really wants to critically focus it's got a great system on it for jumping in and adjusting focus like that and as you saw, you could change that location with the touch screen or you could do it with the touch pad in the back pressing up down and left and right all right. So right in the middle of this collar is the auto focus auto exposure lock button and this is one of those buttons that you can customize it's not a function button but you can customize the exact way that this works right now when you press it it is an auto exposure lock button so it locks the exposure so that you could for instance a good scenario would be shooting a sunset you don't wantto take the exposure of the sun right in front of you you move the camera little off, decide the lock, lock the exposure and then move the camera back with the sun in the frame you can go in and customize this so it just locks the focus or it locks both or another technique that a lot of photographers like apple back button focusing where used lives utilizes this button to auto focus so you would turn it to the auto focus on button, and that enables you to separate the focusing in shut, her firing of the camera away from just the shutter button, a little bit more advanced technique that will really only work when you also make an additional change of turning off the focusing in the shutter release button. And I'll show you how to do that as we get into the menu system. The other thing that you can change on this button, as is to what type of button it is. There's, two types of buttons. I don't know if you know this, but there's two types. One time is you gotta press and hold and it's on ly active while you're holding. The other type is where you press it, and it turns a light switch on essentially so it's on, and then you would press it again to turn it off. And it depends on how you like to press buttons. You can go in to the custom settings and adjust that particular way and function of that particular button.