Autofocus & Manual Focus Menu
subjects dealing with focus, auto focus and manual focus. The first is the focus area, and this is something that has a shortcut button on the back of the camera, so it's unlikely that you're going to come here and do it. But if you want to re program another button for it, this allows you access to do that. The A F mode is the area that we're focusing at currently. Right now, most of your cameras are probably having the down button access this auto focus mode here. And so this is something you generally are gonna want to have pretty quick access to. This is something that a lot of photographers change on a regular basis. I usually keep my camera in the single point mode, but I often changed his own when going with action. So this camera has a lot of focusing points. It actually has 273 focusing points, and they kind of felt that there is too many focusing points for selecting each and everyone because they're just so close together. And so they have kind of inherently put the camera a...
t 77 points, which I think a lot of people do like, because you're able to move around a little bit more quickly. But if you do find that you need those focusing points that air in between and you don't mind the extra time going back and forth because you gotta hit that little joystick one extra time for every one of those boxes, you can set it to 273 points. Pre auto focus is something that I would recommend turning off on. What happens here is that the camera will be in it. Auto focus, state all of the time when the cameras turned on. And this is gonna draw down on your battery life a fair bit because there's a lot of work in focusing the lands. And so it's designed for focusing a little bit more quickly because as you hold the camera, it's already trying to get focused even before you press down on the shutter release. But I find that it's so easy to press down on the shutter release halfway, and the battery life is already a little bit short on this camera. I don't want to make it even shorter with this turned on, so the camera has an F illuminator out in the front of the camera. We talked a little bit about this and, you know, you know, from a technology standpoint, this is kind of a cool little thing. But from a subject standpoint, I find it very irritating. Having this light shone in my face. I've been working around other photographers that have had auto focus lights that are shining on a subject that I'm trying to photograph, and it's throwing off my exposure. And so this is something I would recommend turning off unless you have found it particularly helpful in the vory situation that you are in. We have the option of turning on face detection on the camera, So this is where it can go in and detect faces and focus on those faces. It could even focus on the eyes left eye right eye options on there. And if you do a lot of people photography, this could be helpful in getting the correct focus. But if you're not doing a lot of people photography, you may want to turn this off. It might also want to turn off if you have multiple for people and you want to be very specific about which one you are focusing on. Autofocus plus manual focus is for people who want to auto focus with the shutter release, but they would like to be able to do some manual touch up on the focus. And so with this turned off, the camera just acts normally in the focus. You press halfway down for focus and then press all the way down to shoot a photo. With this turned on, you press halfway down, you let the camera focus, and then it usually settles in and stops, and then you can grab the focus ring and you can adjust it according to your needs. And so, if you like to do manual touch up focusing, it's a system that works pretty good now. Kind of separate from all of this is back button focusing that we talked about earlier on a lot of people like back, but focusing because you would press one button, take your finger off the button and you can adjust focusing. And so they're just slightly different variances on the way that you achieve Auto focus and manual focus. Manual focus, assist. We have a couple of different options on how the camera will focus and got a couple of little videos. I can show you here on how this works. So the digital split image splits the image in top and bottom. And let's see here the video is running and so you can see I'm trying to line up the film canister in the foreground vertically. And now I'm gonna try to line up the film in the mill in the middle, and I'm looking for vertical lines, and I'm trying to get him exactly lined up. And so this is the way some of the older manual focus SLR is used to work. There used to be this split prism in there, and you would line up vertical lines. And so it's one way of achieving sharp focus. Another way is called Focus Pique Peking, and this is where the camera will show you what's in focus. It'll show you the depth of field and shimmery it in a bright color. In this case, it is read. As you see, I'm focusing on the foreground background and back to the middle ground. You can see exactly where the cameras focusing, and so this could be very helpful in different types of situations where you want to see what you are focusing on very clearly by using the entire screen. And so we have different ways of giving you in a little assist because you don't have enough resolution either on the back screen or in the viewfinder, just to look through the viewfinder and know that you really have it in sharp focus. Now, if you do choose the Peking option, you can choose white bread or blue as well as high and low intensity on the Peking, and so the high settings will make it very easy to see. But they'll also be a little will be a little obnoxious through a little bit bright, and they might be distracting you in some other ways. And so you might want to try high end low to see what works for you. Second page of the autofocus features focused check. So if you leave, this turned on, the camera will automatically jump in and show you focus when you go in to manually focus, and then, if you want to adjust the magnification, you can turn the dial on the back of the camera and So let's just do a little demo here with the camera in front of me, and I want to show you. So first thing I need to do is I need to go into the menu system and menu, and we are on page two and I'm gonna turn focus check on right now. So, actually, let me leave it in off, and what I'm gonna do right now is I'm gonna make sure that my camera is in manual focus. I'll zoom in a little bit and you can see when I focus. I'm just looking at the back of the camera. Or if I was to look in the viewfinder, I just see what's in there. So let's go back into the menu in turn focus. Check on. And so now when I grab the focus ring and I start to turn, it automatically zooms in. Now, if I don't like where it's at, let's see, let's turn it. And no, it looks like I thought I could change it. And so I guess you'll see where the boxes. If I want to focus on a particular area, I gotta put that box there, and then I can manually zoom in and focus on that area. I can turn this dial to get either more or less magnification according to where I want to be. But if I want to focus on a different area, I gotta move the box ahead of time. And then I can just come in and manually focus over here like so and so it Sometimes I love focused magnification on, and if I do a lot of manual focusing generally, I like it tuned on. In some cases, I'd prefer to have it turned off. So that's something that you may want to have access to jumping in and turning on and turning off on a more regular basis. So for now, I would like to have it turned on all right, next up. Do you want to lock the spot metering with the spot focusing area? And there's a lot of photographers who prefer to do this, and it will only come into play if you choose spot metering. And so it's not gonna come into play at other times. And so I guess one of the big questions to start with is how often do you use spot metering If you dio. It's kind of nice to be able to move it around and adjust it the same way you do the focusing the instant autofocus entity. And so this is what I've been talking about for back button focusing. When you have your camera set to manual focus, you compress the A F l button for focusing. Now the question is, do you want to do single focus or continuous focus? Most people for most types of photography are doing single focus. But if you're doing action photography, where the subjects are moving towards you or away from you, you may want to put this in the A. F. C setting. And so Fs is probably where most people are gonna have this set for anyone who wants to do the back button focusing. And even if you don't want to do the back button focusing, this is where an option you'll have any time the camera is left in the manual mode. All right, the depth of field scale. If you recall in the viewfinder in the back of the camera and in the viewfinder, you can see a scale that shows you where you're focused at and how much depth of field you're going to get now, Depth of field scales get a little interesting if you want to talk about them for a moment, because the depth of field scales that many of us are working with that are on a lot of the programs on our IPhones that air on lenses and so forth are based off of very old information from film about what we felt looked like and focus. It's a very subjective call, what's in focus and what's out of focus. And some of this information is based off of film from 50 years ago, printed on eight by 10 prints, and the technology has progressed quite a bit since then, and we've got quite a bit more accurate. So if you don't mind the more loose standards of the film basis, it's going to show you more depth of field. Whereas if you choose pixel basis, which is kind of our more modern standard, where we're getting very hypersensitive about what's in focus in what's out of focus, this will show you a nearer region region of where your focus is going to be covered, and so your depth of field is exactly the same. No matter which one of these you choose, it's just how much does it show you that you're getting? And so it's just different standards as to what it believes is in focus. And so once again, the depth of field is exactly the same. It's just the size of the graph. Is changing a little bit release and focus priority? And so this is our first of several upcoming sub menus. And so from here we're going to dive into a deeper menu, which is going to give us a few options. The first option is A. F S priority selection when the camera is in the single FS mode single focus mode. Do you want the camera to prioritize the focus of your subject or the releasing of the shutter? And in this case, most cameras and most people prefer to have it in the focus mode, which means your picture has to be in focus in order to shoot a photo. Now in the next option in the continuous focusing mode. Same question. Do you want it to be prioritized and focused or release Now? There are many sports photographers who prefer toe have this in the release mode because they're not so concerned about getting perfect focus. They want to get the camera taking a photo when they want it taking a photo, and they're willing to give up a little bit of focus, a little bit of sharpness in order to have a photo at that peak moment of action. But with the mirror less cameras, many photographers are preferring to keep that in the focus mode just because these cameras air not as good. And they want them to continue working to try to get sharp focus before they allow the shutter release to be taken. And so, if you shoot action photographs and you're not getting enough folk enough pictures in focus, you should change the A F. C setting to focus. If you find that the camera is not responsive enough and it's not shooting as many pictures when you would want it to, then you should change a F C to the release mode. So very short sub menu in there corrected a frame. So when you are using the optical viewfinder, it's gonna show you a white solid box at where the focusing point is set and then it's going to give you the corners of a white box where, if you are focusing very close up where that focusing would end up now there is a parallax correction, and that is because where you look through the viewfinder and where the light is going into the sensor is in two different spots. And so there's always gonna be a parallax correction cause you're looking through a different window, and so it's kind of giving you the infinity and the close up. Now, do you want the green box, which shows you where you are actually going to be focusing, Do you? Do you want that to come up now? Some people don't want it because they just want a clutter free environment, and I can respect that. But where you focus is a really important issue. And so this is something I think a lot of people are gonna wanna have turned on. If you find that you've kind of figured out how it works and you don't need it, turn on. You can turn it off down the road. But I think to start with, it's best to leave. This one turned on