Camera Operation Overview
next up, let's take a look at the camera operations. So how would we operate with this camera out in the world now that we've gone through and figured out how all the individual features work? So first off, you want to make sure that your camera has basically ready to go. You want to have a charge battery? You want to make sure that you have a fresh reformatted memory card. When you start any sort of new project, you want to make sure that the image quality is set appropriately, whether shooting raw or J pegs. And then you may want to go through the rest of your menu settings to see if there's anything funky that you have set from the last time around that you were using the camera. And if you're going out on a big shoot like a wedding or a big vacation holiday, you might want to do a test shot against a white wall or a white piece of paper clear sky to see if you have any dust on your sensor. And so here we go. Folks, here are the 12 secret functions of the camera that, well, they're ...
not totally secret. It's just that they're not really obvious functions on the camera. So if you want to check what firm where you have press and hold it, just display back button and turn the camera on. To format your memory card, hold down the garbage can for two seconds and press in on the rear. Command I'll if you want to switch which cards you're looking at in the playback mode, just hold the playback button down for two seconds. If you want a program, any one of the program buttons on the camera, the function buttons. Just hold down that button for two seconds and you will enter that programming mode. If you want to customize the quick menu, just hold that button down for two seconds. If you want to lock those controls on the back of the camera, those selected controls hold in on the menu. OK, button for three seconds. If you want to change the size of your focus area for single or group point focusing, press down on the joystick to activate it and then turn the rear. Command I'll if you want to re program the focus stick, just press in and hold it in for two solid seconds. If you want to use the five stop exposure compensation dialled all the way out to five plus or minus, turn it to see and then you're going to use the front dial, and you may need to press in on that button to move it back and forth from its other setting. And so it's press in tow, unlock it, and then you can turn to adjust it. If you want to view the frame lines, just press in on the lever button. Now that's a button that can get re program. So if you re programmed your camera, that will not work. If you want to change the optical viewfinder magnification. If you just kind of swing that lever out away from the lens and hold it out there for three seconds, it'll automatically zoom that optical viewfinder back and forth. And if you want to change the manual focus assist mode, you compress in on that rear button for two seconds and you'll be able to select between the standard, the split image or the Focus peak. Highlight option for manual focusing. Assess So those air 12 things that if you don't dive deep into the menu, or at least watch this class. Most people would never know about so good ways to trick your other friends who don't know as much about the X Pro two as you do. So there's lots of ways to customize your camera. So let me just sum up the ways that you can customize your camera. First off, we have six different function buttons that you can do. We have custom image quality settings. With those seven presets, we can go in and customize the display options in the camera with 23 to 24 different options to be depending between the optical and the electronic viewfinder. And then in my menu, you can have up to 16 items that you control in there. And so this camera is truly very, very customizable. Now, the settings that I expect most people to use on this camera on a regular basis are these 10 settings your shutter speed, your aperture, your I s O and your exposure compensation. So things dealing with the exposure, the drive setting on the back que menu will give you access to things like the white balance and your auto focus area, which they call a F mode. And then you're focusing switch out on the front for single to continuous focusing. And then for some people they change their metering, and that's an important one. And so that will be accessed in the menu system if you haven't already set a short cut for it on the camera itself. So those there are 10 options for what we're gonna be changing in the camera. Now let's take a look at how they would operate in the real world. So four basic super simple photography This is where you want Everything is easiest possible. Perhaps you're gonna hand the camera toe Bunches of other people, friends or family members to use the camera just to take simple photos, turn the shutter speed dial all the way to the A setting. Turn the aperture ring or the switch on the lens to automatic aperture. Put Theis so in automatic, and the camera will totally figure out exposure control for you. Make sure that exposure compensation has said it. Zero. Unless you're specifically trying to do something different, the meeting can be said it multimedia ring that should work fine as well, auto, white balance focusing mode on single. So that's the little switch on the front of the camera and the A F area auto mode, where it's just simply looking at everything and then the drive mode on single, where it's just use one shot at a time. So for landscape photography, subjects are not moving. We might be on a tripod. Hopefully, we're on a tripod, and we want lots of depth of field so that everything is in focus. So in this case, we're gonna want to keep the isso is lowest possible so that we get as little noise and as clean as information as possible. We generally want a lot of depth of field. So f 8 11 16 22 depends on the situation. We're gonna end up with slower shutter speeds. The shutter speed will really depend on the light level, and we often end up with slower shutter speeds. If we're choosing more depth of field in a low I S O setting, we don't need exposure compensation because we're in a manual mode. Metering can be left on its multi metering and white balance could be left in auto. Her focus We want to be very specific about where we're choosing our focus to be. So the single point for focusing and then r A F area mode would be in single. So it's just choosing to actually my get this correct focus motives in Single. So it's just focusing once, and locking the A F area mode means we're choosing a single box in which to focus. And our drive mode would probably be in single and just kind of as a bonus. We'd either be using a cable release or we would be using the two second self timer. Next up, Let's look at portrait photography. So here we're needing a little bit faster shutter speed because our subjects might be moving, and we also like shallow depth of field so that we can blur the background out. So in this case, I would probably set the aperture first. Maybe I have one of those fast aperture lens is This is where it's nice to have one of those 1. F 2.0 lenses I'm gonna want make sure that I have a shutter speed fast enough to stop the action of my subject. Even if they're just standing there. I'll probably need about 125th of a second, and I would prefer to have the lowest I s o possible. But if the light levels are not good, I'll probably have to raise Theis so up from them, we're going to stick with multimedia ring, which is pretty good for everything. We're going to stick with auto white balance unless we're under some funky lighting. And as long as our subjects are not moving around too much, we're gonna leave it in single focus, which focuses and then locks in on them. And you want to be very precise about where you focus. You want their face and focus. You want their eyes in focus. And so using the single point for that would be best. And then as far as the drive unit just leaving that in single for taking a single shot with a button presses Fine. It's possible you might want it in the continuous option there. Next up, let's do action photography. So where we're going to need faster shutter speeds to stop the action. We're also gonna need a focus is focusing system that tracks the action back and forth. And so here I'm gonna be thinking about a faster shutter speed 5/ of a second or faster. This is where it really pays off to have one of those faster lenses that gets down to a 2.8 aperture. I would prefer to be at the lowest I e isso setting. But if you're choosing really fast shutter speeds, you're probably going to need to bump up the I S 400 is just a starting point. If you're shooting indoor sports and action, it'll probably need to be 16 or 6400. We'll go ahead and stick with multimedia ring will stick with auto white balance unless we need to change it for the focus mode. Very important change. This is where we change it to continuous so that our camera is tracking that movement forward and backward and a couple different options. Here. You could choose the zone focusing if your subjects to have a lot of obstructions that they might be running behind different athletes. For instance, the wide tracking will give you the best performance along you don't as you don't have something obstructing between you and your subject, and this is where it's using all the focusing points. But remember, it's using the phase detection ones in the large box in the middle. And that's where you're going to get the best autofocus performance in a tracking mode from the camera. And then finally, in the drive mode. Of course, you're gonna wanna have this in the continuous mode so that you can shoot a burst of shots to capture the peak moments. All right, let's end this little section on basic photography. How would I have my camera set up when I don't know what my next shot's gonna be and I want to have some creative control, but I want it to be quick to work with. And this is where I like to use a little bit of automation. And my first step here is to set the shutter speed to automatic shutter speeds so that the camera is gonna figure that out for me. I'm gonna be setting the aperture, and I'll probably set it at a moderate aperture like four or 5.6. And if I need more depth of field, I'll dial that end. If I need a faster shutter speed. I'll keep my eye on the shutter speed, and I'll dial in a different aperture. To start with, I would prefer to have my eye eso at 200 if the light levels are low. If I need faster shutter speeds, I'm likely to dial up the aperture to a higher number. Do you need to be careful about exposure compensation now because we are in an aperture priority mode and the exposure compensation will brighten or darken our photos. And so, by default, leave it at zero adjust as necessary from there in a stick with the multimedia ring going to stick with the auto white balance. Most of the time, we're not shooting stuff that is moving all around, and so we're gonna choose single. If you are shooting something that's moving, then you conflict that to continuous. If you want to be very precise about what you focus on, you want to use one of those five single box areas, adjust the size to your liking and then in the drive mode, setting it toothy single mode so that you just get one shot at a time. And so for making it this far through the class. I can tell you Congratulations. You are now a Fuji X Pro two expert. So thanks a lot for watching through this. Now, from what I understand is that we have a couple of questions that have come in during our live broadcast here, and we're going to see if I can try to answer these questions right here. And so I think we're going to see these questions on screen. So here we go. What do you use for post processing Fuji X Pro? Two raw images often times the out of camera J pegs air sharper than my Roz, even after I try to sharpen them in light room cc. Well, I personally use adobe light room, and I know that a lot of people use adobe light room. But I also know that some people who use huji cameras are not totally happy with Fuji's interpretation of their raw images. This is a matter of personal preference. I really haven't had a problem with it on. And so I'm happy sticking with adobe light room. Now, your raw images are not going to be sharpened the way you're J pegs are. If you go back to the section in the class where I showed you how it sharpened the J pegs. You can either crank that up or crank it down if you want. And so, with raws, it's going to be just a matter of learning that program. And so in light room, using the sharpening amount and the masking control and playing with that, you should be able to achieve something that IHS similar. It's gonna be hard to get exactly the same sharpening that Fuji does, but you do have a wider latitude for sharpening. And so I can't tell you exactly where to set those sliders in light room because it varies from each each photo from another. And so there isn't a magic place where they always go to, but it is a matter of tweaking with it, and I would think that you should get a set of good results from them. If you're not happy with that system, you might try Fuji Software. There are some people that are preferring that I think some people are using capture one, and they do like that software. I know that Adobe has been working to try to catch up because they know that they haven't been getting the results that have pleased everybody. And so you might I need to move to another program and come back to adobes when they get it a little bit better. But once again, I don't. Maybe my standards are a little bit lower. That could be Ah, but I have found it quite acceptable using adobe light room personal choice. All right, I think we may have one more question. Can you name the custom menus like Studio Macro, low light and that one? I don't believe you. Can I constantly have about 40 cameras on my brain. And so let me just dive in here in double check to make sure, and so we're going to go into the custom menus. Quickest way to get there is simply hold down on the Q button and it will flip over here. And so we have custom. 123 And we can save the current settings in there. That's not what we want. And so there is nothing under rename. I don't recall anything under rename. And so no, there is no way of doing that. You're just gonna have to remember what one through seven is, or you're gonna have to get a label maker, and you can label the top of your camera. One is studio to is Field on, and so you can customize your own camera with your own labels in that way. So sorry you can't do that. That's a great suggestion. Send that into Fuji, and who knows? We might have a firmware update with that update. So that takes you care. Takes care of you for the educational part of this. Let's just wrap this up with a few other little thoughts here. So this is part of my fast start Siris of classes. If you own a different version of this camera, if you have a Fuji X T to, there's a lot of similarities. I will be making a class for the X T to. It just came out. Don't have it up on the screen here, but if you have one of the any other different cameras, if you know somebody else who wants a camera class, I probably have a class in it. If you're interested in other types of photography classes, I do have a number of other classes here it creativelive. If you want a simple, basic starter class, the starter kits Good for that. I do have a free class if you want a class in how to choose the right camera. If you want kind of the full kit and caboodle of a photography class, I have a very in depth fundamentals of photography class. I have a couple of topics. Specific classes, nature and landscape, and then another one for travel photography. And then for at least Nikon and Canon users. I have a lenses class, and this is great for anyone who wants to learn all about lenses. They are specifically designed one for Nikon and one for Canon. But if you just want to learn a lot about lenses, either one of them is very good for all of that.