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Fujifilm X-Pro2 Fast Start

Lesson 24 of 26

Custom Display Settings Menu

John Greengo

Fujifilm X-Pro2 Fast Start

John Greengo

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Lesson Info

24. Custom Display Settings Menu


  Class Trailer
Now Playing
1 Class Introduction Duration:06:38
2 Camera Overview Duration:07:20
3 Photo Basics Duration:06:33
4 Top Deck: Overview & ISO Duration:07:37
5 Top Deck: Exposure Control Duration:18:50
6 Top Deck: Overview Duration:02:47
7 Viewfinder Display Duration:14:49
8 Back Side: Buttons Duration:12:32
9 Back Side: Quick Menu Duration:29:26
10 Back Side: Play Back Duration:06:30
11 Back Side: Format Memory Card Duration:03:29
12 Back Side: Drive Mode Duration:10:00
13 Left & Right Side: Overview Duration:06:22
14 Bottom Side of Camera Duration:05:01
15 Front of Camera Duration:05:35
16 Fuji Lenses Overview Duration:07:47
17 Camera Menu Overview Duration:03:01
18 Image Quality Menu Duration:14:14
19 Autofocus & Manual Focus Menu Duration:13:58
20 Shooting Settings Menu Duration:15:39
21 Wi-Fi Settings Menu Duration:06:07
22 Flash & Movie Menus Duration:04:23
23 Set Up Menu Duration:16:38
24 Custom Display Settings Menu Duration:18:50
25 Play Back Menu Duration:04:58
26 Camera Operation Overview Duration:16:24

Lesson Info

Custom Display Settings Menu

And so let's do a little demo on my camera just to show you a little bit about that. So let me hit my menu button and let's see, we are in the custom menu. We are in screen set up and we're under Let's see screen set up here and we're doing on the second page under display custom settings. So we're in one sub menu. We're going into a deeper sub menu. Oh, let's do things in the electronic viewfinder. So I'll go right here. And so you can see all these different items here. There's actually three pages of items that you can go through in turn on and off. And so back here. If you want to see the hissed a gram, you'll see the hissed a gram. And so there's a lot of things that you know you probably want to have in here, like your shutter speed and your aperture. But, you know, if I don't use the flash, just turn it off. That way you don't have to look at it, and so maybe I don't use film a simulation. I'm not going to use the dynamic rain frames remaining. That's kind of important. I like t...

he image quality like the battery level. And so now when I back out of this, this is what I'm looking at on the screen back here. All of this information. What do I want to see? Remember I turned on the hissed A gram. Well, there it iss and all this other information. And you can turn on and off just about everything in there that you see And so you can really customize the display so that it shows you on lee the information that you need, which I love, because on previous cameras there is something in there that I never, ever used, but I got a look at it all the time. Then there's all of our check box and then that kicks us back out into the set up men, you we go down to the next item and we're gonna be able to start controlling the button and dial settings on the camera. So in this case, we're going to start off with the focus lever setting. And if you remember the little focus lever, the joystick in the back of the camera, the shortcut to doing this is just holding in pushing in on this stick for about three seconds and you'll be able to get to the same sort of setting here. And so if you don't want to ever use this, you can put it in the locked position if you want it in its safety position, where you have to press it once to turn it on. That would be the push to unlock option, but I think most people are just going to simply leave this in the on option unless they are bumping it quite frequently and find that distracting, save, edit and save in the quick menu. And so this is just another way of getting in here. I think we did this earlier, before where you could go in and you could select different items that are in the quick menu, and so there's a lot of different options that you can put in here. Some of them are controlling the picture settings. Some of them were controlling the basic operations that your camera and this is the cue button on the back of your camera, so there are, but they're 16 items here that you can quickly have access to, and so It's just one of the many different ways that you can customize this now. If you want, you can elect not to have something there. So if you don't want 16 you could have only eight items in there. And so choose whatever you need to 16 of the items that you are most likely to need when you're actively shooting function settings. The camera has several function buttons. Let's count him out here 12 on the front. And then we got three, which is the metering one in the back and then three more in the backs for 45 and six. So we have six function buttons that you can program in any way that they have available for you. And if you look in there, you will find that there is a large listing of ways that you can go in and re program those. But so if you're not the type of person who wants to shoot videos, you don't have to shoot videos. The function button on the top of the camera can be completely reprogrammed to do something else that you find far more practical. So by all means, get in there and get your camera customized for the way you like it to work the command. I'll we have our front command ill and our rear command. I'll and these can be swapped. If you want. One controls the shutter speed one controls the aperture. If you don't like the way that works, you can swap those backwards, forward and backwards. Our eso setting of high can be set to either 25, or 51,200. Now, image quality of 51,200 is pretty low. So unless you are specifically needing that for a very special assignment, you probably just wanna have in 25,600 which is the next step beyond the 12,800. If you do not have a lens on the camera, do you want to be able to fire the shutter release? Normally, that answer is no, I don't want to do that. Leave it turned off that way. If anything gets in the sensor and the shutter happens to be fired, it won't ruin the shutter. The reason that you would want to leave this turned on its if you are using a lens adapter, which does not have electron ICS where you have it hooked upto a telescope microscope or some other device that it is not being sensed in the Elektronik contacts of the camera. And so your average user keep it turned off. And unless you're using one of those special devices, that's when you can turn it on. The focusing ring can be adjusted to change which direction you turn in order to get to minimum distance or infinity. And so people coming from Nikon are gonna have a clockwise turn that they're used to using and everyone else canon Sony What have you are going to be a little bit more used to a counterclockwise turn The counter clockwise is kind of the standard industry norm for how you focus to infinity. Nikon lenses are a bit reversed, but it allows you to choose whichever system you're more comfortable with. So that's just for manual Focusing. The auto exposure lock button on the camera can be switched with the auto focus lock button, and if you want to swap the operations of these buttons because you find one is more useful from the other and you would like that button to be a little bit closer to your thumb. You can swap those back and forth second page in here, so the lock mode. And so when you're pressing the auto exposure or the auto focus button, do you want it to be active on Lee when you are actively pressing down on the button? Or do you want it to work like a light switch where you press it wants to turn it on and press it wants to turn it off. If you use it a lot and you want to move your fingers around the camera, you might want the switch option. The safety precaution for most people is leaving it on. Pressing that way, they know that it's on Lee being used when they're actually pressing the button down the A F lock mode. That's the one over. On the right hand side can be set as a F lock or can be said is a flock and auto exposure. Lock it so if you want to combine both those buttons very hard to press both buttons at the same time. This allows you to do to button presses with one button press, so it depends on how you like to lock your exposure. This is very much a personal setting. It's not how I have my camera set up. I'm not locking the exposure a lot. I tend to be doing more manual exposures or using the exposure compensation dial on the camera rather than exposure lock. But it's personal preference. Aperture City. So if you have one of the X C lenses, which do not have aperture rings on them, you will control the aperture by turning the back dial of the camera. And the question is, do you want to be able to change through all the apertures or all the apertures and the auto option for auto apertures? And so, if you do, like occasionally using automated automated aperture, which would be shutter priority, you would want to use a plus M that gives you the full range of options. If you find that you never used the A setting, you don't want to accidentally go there. You can just simply set it on the M setting. But this will only have an effect on the X See lenses, the ones that do not have the focusing or the aperture ring on them right there. All right, back out of that. Some men, you back into the set up menu and then we're gonna go into things dealing with power management so quickly. How quickly do you want the camera to power down? And so your choices can be either two minutes or five minutes or just having stay on now, I will mention that in firmware version 2.0, which comes out in October of 2016 they will be adding to more options. In here are three more options that you do not see right now. And that would be 15 seconds, 30 seconds and one minute. And so the question is simple. How long do you want it to be before the cameras simply powers down and you need to press the shutter release toe, wake the camera back up again? And so it's a little bit of matter of convenience versus battery life. And what's most important to you? Power management gives us three options economy standard in high performance. And here's where we get into a little bit of a balance between how we want the camera to operate in its performance versus the battery life that we get out of it. So if you want maximum battery life, you leave it at economy. If you want the highest performance, you put it higher high performance. But what is that exactly affecting on the camera? Well, let's take a look. So here's our three different modes, and the two main things that it's gonna control is the speed of auto focus and the electronic viewfinders frame per second refresh rate. So the economy mode is normal on both of these two. You're going to get a decent level of performance with these. If you move it up into the standard mode, it's going to use a little bit more battery power. And it's gonna use that battery power to increase the auto focusing speed as well as three frames per second in the viewfinder. So for general viewing and especially viewing of action, you're gonna be getting a sharper, clearer view in the viewfinder. All right, so let's take it one more step. What happens at high performance at high performance, it takes the electronic viewfinder to, I believe, 85 frames per second. So you're getting the fastest possible frames per second in the viewfinder. For somebody who shoots action, that could be very handy. If you're not shooting high speed action, you're not going to notice much of a difference. And the high performance has no difference on auto focus speed. And so if you want to get the most autofocus out of it, but be a little bit reasonable with the battery power, you can leave this at Standard, and I don't have 100% confirmation of this. But from the best of my understanding at this time, the frames per second in the electronic viewfinder at economy is around 30 frames per second. At standard, it's about 54 frames per second, and at high it is 85 frames per second. And so the faster frame rate in the viewfinder here is gonna play a difference when you're shooting subjects that are either moving or you are moving quite a bit and you'll notice that the image is just crisper and sharper. And so you do have to be careful about setting this in the high performance mode because it's gonna lower your battery life. Hard to say exactly how much. 10% 20%. Somewhere in that range is likely to be the performance loss that you're gonna get out of each battery. So I think standard is a good option for most people because it's nice to get that fastest autofocus possible. All right, next up is saved data set up with. So these are things generally to do with the memory cards in the camera. So in here, the frame number there is a file number given to each frame that you shoot. And if you want to go ahead and reset this back to zero, you can. Normally, it just counts up to 10,000. But if you need to reset it, you could set it to renew. Most people just leave this on continuous most of the time, save the original image. A little while ago, I told you about the red eye reduction feature of the camera, where it takes on image that has red eye and automatically fixes it. Well, the question is, do you want to keep that original red eye image? Normally, the camera gets rid of it. Well, I'll be honest with you. I haven't shot a lot of red eye photos with this camera, but any time a camera is gonna automatically go in and fix something on an image. I'm a little bit about wary about having it delete that original image just in case it didn't do a very good job. And so if you are going to do that, I would probably leave this turned on so that you get two versions of that image, you get the original image as you shot it and the red eye fixed correction. And if for some reason it didn't do a good job on the red eye correction, you could go back to the original image and fix it from there. Edit the file name. So if you are using s RGB, you will have a four letter code. If you're using Adobe RGB, you'll have a three letter code. That preface is the number on each of the files. And if you don't like the code that is set there, you could go in and reset it with your own initials or whatever letters that you want to put in there, not something that everyone wants to do. But if you wanted to put in your initials, that kind of lets people know that it was your photo right there in the camera, written with your initials on it. So it is a little bit of, ah, personal stamp that you can put on the metadata of your photos and you will go in here. You'll have a little keyboard. It takes a little bit of time to navigate and settle those things, but it's pretty easy to do card slot setting, so we have to memory card slots in the camera. We can put in two memory cards, and we can control how memory is stored to these cards. The first option is sequential, which means it sends everything to the first card, waits for it to fill up, and then it sends everything to the second card. Back up sends everything to both cards and raw JPEG will send all the Ross to one card and all the J pegs to other cards. Everyone seems to have their own different style workflow. For a basic photographer, the sequential system works really nice. You will rarely need to think about changing cards. Just let it fill up the first card. It automatically spills over and starts dumping data into the second card. Professional photographers are very wary about losing data. And that's why they like the backup option so that they consent all information to both cards. And if something happens to one of those cards, it gets lost gets damaged. For some reason, the files get corrupt on it. All that information is being sent to the backup card as well, and for people who shoot raw and J. Peg. If you like to separate him, there's an option for you as well. Switching the slots. You can come in here and switch which slot you are recording two. And so the one that is highlighted in white is the one that you were recording to, and so you'll be able to be pretty clearly see which card you are going to. The R and D. J. Of course, mean raw and J pegs where you are sending raw images or J peg images. Connection setting is going back to our wireless city, and so I'm not gonna go in depth, and it's just gonna quickly walk through some of these different options in here. But in here is where you can go in, and you can tweak some of the parameters off the wireless settings and so sub menu within sub menu within sub menu, you could go into the general settings. You can change the name of the camera if you want. If you prefer to have a different name on the camera, you can go in. Put a different name doesn't seem to be too necessary to me, but it can be done. If you've messed up the wireless settings and you want to reset everything, you can go in and reset all of that. And that is under the general settings you can have. Image is resized for smartphone, down to three megapixels in size so that they could transfer more quickly and easily, and they're appropriate for anything that you might want to use online. Normally, you would want to leave. This turned on, but you can download higher rez images if you want. You can also use the wireless system in the camera to connect up with the computer so that it downloads straight to a computer that has a wireless system. We're not gonna go into exactly how to set that up. Most people just prefer to take the memory card out of the camera or plug it in with the USB system, but it can technically be done, and you would be able to control some of those settings in here. And that is all in the wireless settings. And so part of that PC auto safe settings. So if you are going to save wirelessly to a PC computer, there is a simple set up. There's a manual set up a swell. You can also use geo tagging information from your phone, having that sent to your camera so that there is a geo tag of where you shot your individual photos. And I love maps and I love data and I love knowing where I was shooting stuff. But this type of stuff really wears down the battery on your phone and your camera when you're out there shooting. And oftentimes the further you are from civilization is where it's harder and harder to charge. And this is kind of the conflict of this is where you most want to have your geo, your your geo tagging done. But it's also where you can least afford to run out of batteries. And so this is something that I would just warn you to be cautious about and keep an eye on your battery life When you using these things. Another very cool device that I plan on getting is the new in stacks printer they just entered at reduced. I think it's like the SP two printer so you can shoot a picture with this camera and send it to this very portable, battery powered printer and have prints right there out and feel, I think, for travel photography this be very fun. You can go in here and change the S S I. D. Number of the printer, which just deals with the communication between your camera and the printer itself, and that is all the connection settings in the camera. All right, next up is my menu, and there's probably gonna be nothing in here unless you've gone into the section that we were just at not too long ago in user setting in my menu setting to go through and add your up to 16 items in my menu. And so one of the many different ways that you have to customize your camera and my bet is that if you do a good job customizing your camera, you'll never go into the full menu system again, you might come into my menu, but that's a Sfar as you'll ever need to go, and so things will not get lost. You won't need to worry about finding things, because the things that you use are right there in my menu that you use on a regular basis.

Class Description

We know what it’s like to dive right into taking pictures with your new camera. But dense technical manuals make for a terrible first date. Get the most out of your new Fuji X-Pro2 with this complete step-by-step walkthrough of the camera’s features.

Join expert photographer John Greengo for a fast-track introduction, and unlock your camera’s full potential.  In this class you'll learn:

  • How to work with a mirrorless camera
  • How to master the improved video features
  • How to use and customize the menus
John is a CreativeLive veteran instructor and an experienced photographer. He has extensive experience teaching the technical minutiae that makes any camera an effective tool: aperture, ISO, the Rule of Thirds, and the kinds of lenses you’ll need to suit your camera body. This Fast Start includes a complete breakdown of your camera’s exposure, focus, metering, video and more. John will also explain how to customize the Fuji X-Pro2’s settings to work for your style of photography.  



WOW how I wish I had this to begin with!!!! Between manual and smart tip overload via books and U Tube, as well as, class instructor snafus I pretty much felt like an idiot. After this class not so much. Great job .

a Creativelive Student

I have the X Pro 2 for over a year and I thought that I might get more information on how to use it more efficiently. Boy this is a great course! I learned a lot and I loved the hidden feature :) Highly appreciated John and CL!

Jon Wiggens

A comprehensive walk through of the X-Pro 2. John did a great job of going through each and every setting on the camera and gave lots of helpful tips and tricks that I never would have known about had I relied solely on the manual.