Shooting Settings Menu
all right, we're moving over into a new tab, and this is dealing with subjects on the shooting settings. And so, general shooting operation of the camera First up is the self timer, and we've seen this in other places on the camera and the quick menu. This allows it to be programmed to one of the other function buttons on the camera that you might want to re program. All right, this is a fun one here, Interval timer shooting. So a lot of cameras are including interval timers, and this is so that you can go out and shoot a whole bunch of individual photos that you would later put into a video. And so this is Mt. Hood in Oregon. I put the camera on a slider and recorded these photos over about a 45 minute time span. Another example listens in Varanasi, India, and I got a little bit of a zoom back. I did this action in postproduction wanted toe reveal a little bit, Morris the pick, as they video played on. And these are all individual photos taken about every 10 seconds and then compresse...
d into a video format. And so you have the option of doing this in camera as faras, setting up how long the interval is between shots. Now what's interesting about Fuji and I mentioned this earlier. It's it's about the way that it breaks up the shutter speeds. So right now on screen, you see 1/30 of a 2nd 1/ and 125th. Now, pretty much all cameras in the market go to third stop increments. And if you were shooting in a situation where the light is changing, let's say it's getting darker. What's gonna happen is you're going to start shooting pictures at 125th of a second, and then, after a period of time, it will go down to 100. And it's going to do this stair stepping as the light gets lower and lower and your shutter speeds are adjusting and accommodating. If your camera was in a program mode or a shutter priority or an aperture priority mode, and so we're thinking about a situation where the lights changing your having the camera kind of adjust to the light. The problem with the normal camera is that you have end up with the fairly large jump off 1/3 of a step. Well, what Fuji does is it breaks these steps up even further so that this line is even smoother in its changing from light to dark. And so, if you are shooting a time lapse like the following time lapse, where we're shooting downtown Seattle, as the sun sets quality or the quantity of light is changing, and it's getting darker in each of these images, and the Fuji camera is very smoothly changing that shutter speed settings in this case, along with light levels there. And so it does a very good job, and my theory and I don't have you don't have a lot of proof on this. My theory is that Fuji cameras are better for doing interval ometer time lapse shots than other brands of brands of cameras because they do these incremental adjustments when it comes to the shutter speeds. So you'll be able to go in and adjust the interval, which is the time between the shots as well as the total number of shots. If you do want to shoot a time lapse, I'd recommend a minimum of 300 shots shooting normal video, which is around 30 frames per second. That will give you a 12th time lapse, which is a nice little clip to spice up a slide show film simulation bracket. And so we talked about the different film simulation modes, and so we're going to jump into a little bit of a sub menu here. And this is where we get to shoot with three different films simultaneously at the same time on. So you get to go choose which three films that you like to choose and so just is my own preference. I kind of like shooting with Sylvia, and I like the look of classic chrome and the A cross black and white mode. I think it's it is a nice one to shoot with. And so if I want to shoot with all three different film modes, I could do a bracket where I get all three, basically at the same time, all right. Next up is faux Tami tree, which most people simply call the media ring system. In their camera, we saw this. There's a button on the back of the camera that does this, but if you want to assign another button to do it, you may do so most of the time. The multi segment metering, which breaks the scene up into multiple individual areas, compares the highlight, and shadow information gives you a good overall reading is how I plan to use my camera. Most of the time. It does a good general reading for virtually everything. All right, another very interesting one here, the shutter type. And so the mechanical shudder is the shutter that operates from in 1/1000 of a second down to 30 seconds. And so this is the physical device that opens and closes in front of the center, and we also have the option of an electronic shutter, which will allow us to shoot silently. So let's take a look at what some of this is doing. So here's our sensor, and here's our mechanical shutter. Remember, we have a first curtain. We have a second curtain and the way that a normal picture is taken on a mirror. This camera is the first shutter curtain will close, the sensor charged, it turns on, but when that shutter curtain opens up, it opens up so quickly it causes a vibration, which may cause a lack of sharpness or a loss of sharpness in your images, and then the second curtain will come in at the end of the exposure and finish it off. Now, the way in electronic shutter works is it simply scans across turning the lines on one at a time. And so this ends up with a rolling shutter effect because it is not a global shutter, turning all the pixels on at the same time, you're gonna have a problem with any subject that moves because the pixels are gonna be recording it in different places. And so the election it shudder, has some advantages and some disadvantages. Using a test chart, I wanted to do a little panning test where I was moving the camera side to side. And so, as I pan the camera from right to left, the mechanical shudder while giving me a blurry photo is still giving me straight lines in all directions. When I use that Elektronik shudder, you'll notice that this is the jello effect. The camera is no longer recording straight lines, and this was done at 2/50 of a second. So I decided, Well, what does it look like at a really fast shutter speed, cause a really fast shutter speed is supposed to stop action, right? Well, the picture is sharper, but I'm still ending up with the jello effect. And so anything that moves anything that you would normally need around 1/60 of a second or faster in order to stop the action, you're gonna end up with some funky results. So if your car is moving down the street and you're using the Elektronik shudder and you're panning with the car, the buildings in the background are going to get blurry or they're not gonna. They're gonna be blurry for other reasons for pani. But they're going to be angled because each of the lines is being recorded at a different time as the sensor scanning. Now, a different problem happens with a camera that is stationary and having a object go past it. And so, in this case, the wheels of those by that bicycle are no longer round because of that jello effect of the scanning process of the sensor. And so the electronic sensor does not work well, if you are moving the camera a lot or a subject is moving in front of the camera, so it works much better for stationary subjects. And so the pros about using the electronic shutter is that it allows you to use shutter speeds upto 32/1000 of a second. And the reason that you might want to do that. You thinking, What? What did you want to use? 32/1000 of a second with a subject that's moving will. You might want to. But where that comes in handy is with the 56 1.2 lens. If you're shooting a portrait with the 56 1.2 lens in bright sunlight, and I'm not condoning that bright sunlight is the best light to be shooting Portrait's in. But if you happen to be doing that with a 1.2 lens in bright sunlight, you need a really fast shutter speed. If you want to shoot that lens at 1.2, and this will allow you to shoot in really bright sunlight at 1. with a portrait subject that's not moving around. The silent cheddar will work just fine, so it allows us to use really fast shutter speeds. The other big advantage is it allows us to shoot completely silent photography. And so let me do a little example here. I would take a couple of mechanicals shots and then what I'll do is I'll change it over to the silent shutter. And so let's just first take a couple of shots using the mechanical shutter, and we'll listen to the sound. It's already pretty quiet. It's very, very quiet on this camera, but I'm gonna go in and we're gonna change the shutter type to an electronic shutter right now. And so let's go ahead and take some more pictures. And it's actually making noise that I don't want it to, because I reprogrammed my camera and normally I would turn this off. So what I'm gonna dio is go into the sound set up and operational, etc. Shudder volume sound. I'm gonna turn that off because there is no sound. So the camera was making up its own sound. So here is thes silent shutter, and basically all you're hearing is the aperture stop down right now. And so I'm gonna try to point this around to the camera. And so it's if I could get this pointed right. Terrible. I gotta get around here so We're going to see if we can look in the lands you take off the lens hood here so that you might be able to see and they're just a little bit better. And so I'm gonna take some pictures. You see the aperture closing down? That's what's causing the noise. But next to that, it's taking silent photos. And so if you ah, wanna shoot pictures under very, very quite conditions, then you can do that. So in a courtroom, in a theater, you want to have silent shots. As long as there's not a lot of movement, then you're probably gonna be okay. However, there are some constants distorted moving subjects. You are limited on the I s so as to how much you can set the camera to, and the slow shutter speed will have a limit of one second. And you can't use the camera in the A F. C continuous focusing mode, as well as focus and exposure, is fixed in burst modes. And so there are some definite serious limitations for general photography. And then we got one more. You might end up with some possible banding or fog under certain types of lighting And so it's not something I recommend turning on all the time. And luckily there is a best of both worlds options, so you can see the mechanical shutter normal Operation Elektronik Center if you need that really quiet cheddar. But a great option is the mechanical plus Elektronik shutter release, and what happens here is that for shutter speeds up to 1/1000 of a second, it uses the mechanical shudder. And if you need that 16 or 32/1000 of a second, it will then allow the electronic shutter toe work. And so that's why I recommend keeping it. And then the main reason to switch it out to the Elektronik is if you want to go for a completely silent shutter. Next up is the I s mode. We have two different options. Continuous or shooting only. So when the lens, if the lens that you have has stabilization on it when you press halfway down, it engages the image stabilization. If you put it in shooting on Lee, it does it on Lee. When the picture is actually taken. There are certain types of action photographers that don't like to see this compensation in the viewfinder that they're looking through. And so if you're one of those, you can turn it on to the shooting on Lee. It will save a little bit of battery life, but it won't try to stabilize until the picture is actually taken. But I think I find it a little bit easier to compose my subject in most situations with it always on so that I can see exactly what I'm getting framed up As I'm holding the camera, the camera has three different I S O auto settings, and this is a sub menu that we need to dive into. So let's go ahead and dive into here. The first option is the default sensitivity. What sensitivity would you prefer? Given the best quality light for most of us, this is gonna be I s 0 200 Next is maximum sensitivity. What is the highest sensitivity that you want the camera to go to under low light conditions? And this is where you do an I s o test you take a look at kind of were you think you want to draw the line as the highest I e isso that you want the camera to go to. And then that's what you can set into this number here. The minimum shutter speed. This determines. At what point does your camera start bumping up the I s L Now, somebody who might be newer to photography or not is used to holding the camera real steady. Might put their camera at 1/60 of a second. Somebody who can hold their camera really steady might go down to 1/15 of a second before they want the I s O bumped up. And so there's a variety of settings that you can put in your just kind of, depending on what you personally think. Now one of the gripes about this camera for some people is they don't like the way that the isso has to be changed by pulling this up and turning it well, One of the back door options for avoiding that to some degree is that you could program three different auto I esos at Auto eso 108 100 for instance, you could set the default sensitivity 2 800 you could set the maximum sensitivity 2 use this as a short cut button on your camera to change the isso between your three favorite ISOS without having to go up to the dial on the top of the camera. It's not a perfect solution for completely avoiding the pull up dial for changing I S O, but it is a work around for somebody who has a few different I esos that they frequently go to. If you want to use the M Mount adapter, there's gonna be a sub menu that you can go in and make various adjustments. For instance, if you're using, like a lenses or some other brand of lenses using this adopter, one option is the bright frame, the bright frame brightness, how bright these lines are. You can adjust the brightness in there, and from after that you can choose a little bit of lens registration. And so, depending on which lens you're using, you can enter that data information, and that goes into another sub menu. And so you can choose information about which lenses being used, and in fact, you can dive into a further sub menu about the distortion correction. If you want to fix some distortion or shading correction or peripheral illumination, if these lenses have a particular look to them that you want to enhance or you want to correct, for, you can go in and correct for these things. But it's not gonna be necessary with the standard Fuji lenses. It's just if you are using this adapter on the camera.