Top Deck: Overview & ISO
All right, folks, it is time to get serious. We're ready to get into the camera. Controls of the camera sorts we're gonna do is we're gonna take a tour of the camera and we're gonna talk about everything that we see and everything we have to work with on the camera. We're gonna start with basic controls of the camera, so obviously you're gonna want to have the camera turned on. When you do that, the camera goes through a sensor cleaning system to try to knock dust off the sensor. And so that should hopefully keep your sensor nice and clean Most of the time on the back of the camera, you have a selector. I sometimes we'll call it the up, down left, right control pad back there. But that selector is gonna be used for navigating the menu system and making choices within the camera. We have our OK button in the middle, which will be using to confirm many of our choices. We have our rear command I'll, which also doubles as a button. It's a push dial as well. So if you push in on it, it does...
something different than if you turn it so realize that it's kind of two controls in one and on the front side it's the same thing. We have a front command I'll. It is also a push style on it as well. So it's a little bit of a button and dial all combined into one and then new on the X Pro two is our little joystick are focusing. Stick on the back of the camera. We're going to use this for moving the focusing point around, but we can also use it to navigate and make a lot of other controls in the menu system. So these are things that will be using throughout the class in a variety of the futures. So starting on the top deck of the camera are shutter release is a two stage device. So when we press halfway down, we're gonna be activating the MIT, the metering system and the autofocus system, as well as just simply waking up the cameras you want t be very used to that half press down on the shutter release and as you were in the menu system or you've activated any other control on the camera and you simply want a back out of it and get back to shooting photos. All you have to do is press halfway down on the shutter release and that'll back you out of everything else and simply get you right back into the shooting mountain. So it's a good short cut right back to that shoot shooting. So one of the neat things about the Fuji camera is that it has a mechanical cable release on it, and so it uses the's standard threaded cable release. And so if you have one of these old cable releases, it's gonna work on this camera. So if you want to do long time exposures at night time or you're working from a tripod and you don't want to touch the camera in order to trigger the shutter, you can use one of these traditional cable releases. There's a lot of them out there. They don't sell for a lot of money, but they're very, very simple in their operation, and there is an electronic option as well. But if you like the mechanical ones, it's very is very simple to just lightly screw that in there, and it works beautifully. So first part of this is we're going to talk about the exposure control system on the camera. So how do you get the exposure set properly? Let's start with E isso because that's usually the first setting that we often make will mean go into a new environment is where do we want to set the sensitivity of our sensor? And that is what our eso is controlling. And so this has a traditional style s so it's a little different than most modern cameras. It's built into the shutter speed dial where we have to lift up the dial and turn it around. And some people love this, and some people are not so fond of it. But it is what it is, and it does work pretty good, and it does stay locked in. It doesn't accidentally change. You can quickly see it when the cameras turned off, because it's always reading very, very clearly there. So by pulling up that collar and turning around, let's take a look at some of the options we have. We're gonna be able to go from I s 0 200 up to 12,800. We also have a low setting and a high setting. So the highest setting just natively is 12,800 then we get to an H setting, and we can program this to be one of two different things. So throughout this class, I'm gonna be giving you a few shortcuts because I know some of you who are watching this. You're going to see me talking about something and you're going like, Hey, I want to go in and I want to change this right here, right now. And so on this particular feature, the H setting can mean either 25,600 or 51,200. And if you want to choose between those two, you simply go to the set up menu in the camera, and then you would look for the button dial setting and look for the I S o dile setting H, and you could select one of those two options. Now, if you don't want to go through the shortcut process right now, that's perfectly fine. We're going to get to that later in this class when we go through the menu system. And so for most people, I think the H settings probably going to be at 25,000. Once you see the quality that it shoots at, it's gonna make sense in a little bit. Eso That's what the H setting is. We haven't a setting which will automatically set the ISO setting for you. Now the way it does this is it looks at where your shutter speed is and it tries to give you a reasonable shutter speed. So the automatic setting for shutter speeds often works better when you're handheld. Not so good when you're on a tripod, because the camera doesn't understand whether it's on a tripod or not. And so we'll talk more about auto I S O. Because we are able to customize it. And as I say, we'll get into that a little bit later in the class, we do have a low setting, which is I s 0 100 equivalent. Now, generally on cameras, you want to go with lowest quality I s O setting if the light allows for it. So in this case, I s 0 200 I s a 100 will not have quite a much dynamic range of light that it can capture. And so that's why you don't want to. Goto s a unless you really need to. If I was shooting a waterfall and I was at 1/2 2nd and I really needed to get down to a one full second, and I the only way to do that was by cutting the eyes. So from 200 to 100 I would probably do it in that case. So it's kind of an emergency override when you need to get really long shutter speeds. So for most people, it's not gonna be something that's necessary much of the time. So I s 0 200 is a good starting point for most people in most situations. So I wanted to run this camera through a little s o test of my own to see how good the camera does at different ISOS. And we're gonna be looking at this cropped area here in the middle. And this 1st 1 is I s 0 200 which is very, very clean as its 490 even gonna bother showing it. And just in case you don't have a good look at your screen, I'll just kind of give you my interpretation of this. The camera is extremely clean up through 1600. You start noticing a bit of grain that's, you know, a Zeiss, a noticeable at 3200 and still very good at 6400. But it starts taking a turn for the worst 12,800 gets pretty heavy handed by the time we get up to 25,000 and 51,000. And so in general, I don't have a problem shooting this at 16 and 3200. But getting above that, you want to be a little bit careful about when and where you use that. If there, if there is any other options to avoiding using those higher I esos and so in general, extremely good performance for a camera with a sensor of this size.