Let's talk about what you see when you look through the viewfinder. So first of, the frame that you get to see, well, that is 100% accurate and that's always good to know that you are framing your subject accurately. You'll see a variety of focusing frames. You can move these focusing frames around with a little control pad on the back of the camera. You can change the size, we'll talk more about that when we get to the auto focus section. There's a face tracking that looks a little bit different and then when it does achieve and lock in its focus, it'll turn green in color. We have great lines that it can be turned on. There's a variety to choose from depending on what your needs are, and this could just be helpful for compositional reasons. And so there's actually going to be two things that you need to do in the menu system if you do want to see this. One, is you have to choose which you one you want, which would be the framing guideline. And then you'll need to go into Display cust...
om settings and give a little checkmark that you do actually want to see the grids that you have previously selected in the other section. There's an electronic level which tells you if you have tilted the camera, and so this can be very helpful to people who don't hold the camera in a proper level plain. And so it's something that can be turned on and off and turns into a green line when you get it correctly done. And so this is another feature that can be turned on and off. And my general philosophy is, clean up the clutter, get rid of all the stuff, unless you specifically need it for something. Expose your information down along the bottom, is of course critical when you're setting your exposures. You'll see your shutter speeds, your f-stops also known as your apertures. And as a mentioned before, be aware of red settings that mean that there's some sort of warning and a blue one which indicates that you're manually setting something. And, you know, I think I said I was going to show you that and didn't from before, so let me go back and do a little demo on that one. So I'm going to put my camera in aperture priority right now. So the camera is going to figure out…actually, let's do it the other way around. I want to set shutter priority and I'm choosing shutter speeds. Turning the camera on always helps, remember that. All right, let's zoom in on our Prop Table over here. All right, so if I set a reasonable shutter speed like a 30th of a second, my camera says, "I need an aperture of 5.0 to get a proper exposure." And as I go down to slower shutter speeds, it changes the aperture. If I go to too faster shutter speed, it's going to turn to red, which indicates it needs…it's limited by 4.0 and it actually needs to go beyond it and it can't do it. You can see that the ISO is in white, which is automatically being controlled. My shutter speed is in blue because I'm physically changing that myself. And if I take a photo here, I've got the warning that this picture is not quite right and actually probably having…. I can't see, where is my ISO? So 30 to...how did that come out? Let's take a look at the picture. Yeah, that's a little bit dark in my opinion, and so that's because I did not have an aperture wider than F-4. And so if I was using this camera in reality and I was trying to set my shutter speeds, I would say, "Ooh, this aperture is not wide enough for it. I got to change this until it stops being red, right there at 30th of a second." Now this can also happen at the other end of the spectrum. I don't know if can go that long. I would have to go down to the T setting, and control my shutter speeds back here. Let's go into a really long shutter speed like four seconds. And F-22 is not small enough, and so I got to bring this back, back into the range where it's white. And so be warned of anything that's in red, whether it's on the back of the camera or in the viewfinder itself. The Exposure Indicator, over on the left, we've already talked about that. Normally, you kind of want that near the zero mark. You'll adjust from there as necessary. The histogram is a graphic display of the brightness of your subject, and so this can be very helpful for making sure that you have the correct brightness. This can be turned on and off in your Display custom settings. We'll get into that more in the menu section. What type of recording information? Are you shooting RAW? Are you shooting JPEG? What sort of movie settings do you have set? You'll see that there in the top right. And one of my features on Fuji is the distance indicator. And so this will show you a white mark where you're focused at and a blue depth of field scale. And this is the best part, it changes as you focus the lens and as you zoom the lens. It's going to show you your real-world depth of field that you're going to get, and so it's a very, very hand tool to have. I'm not going to go through every different thing that you're going to see up here but there is a few other things that you'll notice. You'll see the date up there. You'll see focus settings down at the bottom. The green indicates that's its focus-achieved. That might be blinking if it's working. On achieving focus, you might get a warning that the camera just can't track-focus on something, there's not enough contrast. All right, there will be a big AF with an exclamation mark. Now how many of these things do you see in there? Well, that's going to depend on how many you set up in the custom settings for the display. And so you'll be able to have a little check box for almost every little item, whether you want to look at the date or not, would you want to look at the focusing information or not. So it's a very, very highly customizable camera. A lot of viewing options on here. All right, we do have a touchscreen on this. And so there's a variety of options when it comes to the touchscreen depending on what you wanted it do. The first option is the finger shot, which means you can use it to shoot photos with just the touch of the LCD. It's not going to focus, it's just kind of like a different shutter release on the camera. You can move the focusing point around and focus, or you can just move the focusing point, or you can turn everything off if you want to, and what you do is you simply just touch that shut button and that will vary depending on which mode you are in. Now, you can turn off the touch mode completely in the menu setting if you want to. And you will change all that by just simply touching that little touch tab. The Display back button is going to be used for two different thing. One, is your displays. And so you can change between standard information often and full display by simply repeatedly hitting that button. It's also used as a back button when we're in the menu system to back up when we've gone into a menu system and we want to back out of it without making any further changes. But when you're normally just looking through the viewfinder, whether it's the viewfinder or the LCD on the back of the camera, just hit the Display button and you'll get these different options. Once again, I like cleaning up the clutter, but sometimes you need information, so you'll often be cycling back and forth between the different options available.