Fuji® X-T10 Fast Start

Lesson 10/11 - Playback & Setup Menu


Fuji® X-T10 Fast Start


Lesson Info

Playback & Setup Menu

Okay, so we're gonna dive into the playback menu. And in order to get into the playback menu, you have to hit the playback button and then the menu button. That's kinda the secret access code to getting to these playback functions. So once again, if you're in here, if you wanna start up the wireless communication, this is the same that we saw in the shooting menu and it's the same as that function button we worked with earlier in the class. And so this allows you to get into the wireless functions so that you can download photos from your camera to your phone so you can make use of sending them across the internet on that case. If you have a photograph that has been shot in RAW and you would like to convert it, you can convert it and you can do a lot of different work with it. So this is almost photoshop in the camera itself. And so the nice thing about this is the original RAW image is not harmed. You're gonna make a copy JPEG image of that original RAW image and applying all the info...

rmation that you might need to do. Now I don't use this very much 'cause I prefer to download onto a computer where I have Lightroom and Photoshop and other programs to work with my images. But if you need to do it, if you wanna do it in camera, you can and this is where it's done. The camera has a garbage can button on the back of the camera for deleting images. But if you have a lot that you need to delete, it's a little bit faster to go through frames and just do selected frames and then do one trash at the end of all of 'em. So two different ways of getting rid of your images there. You can crop images if you need to. Once again, if you're just trying to prepare something for offload through the wireless communication or without use of a computer. You can resize images which should probably be called downsize 'cause you can't upsize anything. But if you have a JPEG image and you wanna make it into an eight megapixel or a four megapixel image or a 640x480 really small image, you can do that in camera. So there's a few little post-production issues that you can take care of right here. Protecting an image will prevent an image from being deleted on the camera accidentally. Now if you format the memory card, if you lose the memory card, well that image is gonna be gone. And so it's a very light level of protection that's it's actually putting on it. If you need to rotate an image for playback, let's say you're gonna hook your camera up to a TV and do a slideshow and you shot a vertical image and you wanna rotate it, that's when you need this to go in and change it. All right, second page in the playback menu is on red eye removal. If you took a photo that has red eye, you could go in afterwards and say fix the red eye on this image. Now it won't work on images of non-people. And so there has to be red eye visible within it to see. If you wanna hook your camera up to a TV and do a slideshow, this is where you could control it. And one of the weird things that it will do here. You see those little people icons? It will zoom in on faces automatically if it notices a face 'cause it has that facial recognition. And I'll be honest with you, I haven't even tried this. I'm not real big on slideshows straight from the camera. But if you want to have some fun, give it a try. You can also collect images up for a photobook assist. And so this might be if you had an account where you wanted to have a book made of certain photos. This is just kind of a way for you to collect the images that you have shot on that memory card for groupings. You can mark these images for upload to YouTube, Facebook. And once again, it's just kind of collecting images. And this is where it's gonna work with a wireless system built into the camera. You can actually do an image search on the camera. If you have lots of images, let's say you've taken a long vacation and you've been taking lots of photos on it, you can search by different faces, dates, favorites, scenes, or different types of data within the camera. So you can actually do some pretty extensive search. It's not the greatest tool for interacting back and forth deciding what you want, but you can actually look if you have a large collection of images on that memory card. You can have this camera set up to automatically save information to a PC. There's some controls in here for doing that. If you wanna print from the camera, you can hook it straight up to certain types of printers. And in here you can go in and select some information about putting the date on the particular photographs. All right, third page in the playback menu. You can get a Fuji instax printer. if you wanna print immediately. And you can print directly from this camera to the printer, which is kind of a cool thing to do if you're into travel photography and you wanna make prints out there in the field. All you need is a camera and a little tiny printer and the Wi-Fi connection between the two of 'em. If you are gonna do a slideshow on a TV, you can either fill the screen of the 16:9 HDTV, but that's gonna crop off a little bit of your image because your sensor is a 3:2 image. Or you can not use the sides of the HDTV so that you can see the entire area of your image that you have shot. And so it kinda depends on what is most important to you. The most screen area or all of the image area. And we have now gotten ourselves all the way to the set-up menu on the camera. So the final series of pages on the menu here. We have our date and time. Obviously get that set 'cause that's attributed to all your photographs. And so you can also have a home setting and local setting. So what's nice about this is if you do travel, you're not really changing the clock on the camera. You're just changing which location you happen to be in as far as where you locally are right now. So it just means less clock changing when you travel. Different languages for the different menu systems. And there is a reset. There is two different resets. One is to reset the shooting menu and one is to reset the setup menu. And so that's just gonna take all the features in the menu system back to the factory default system. Sound and flash off. For those of you who've been using Fuji for a few years, this used to be called the silent mode and now they wanted to be a little bit more specific about it because it's turning off any sort of sounds that the camera makes, as well as the flashes. And as much as I like being discrete and I don't want sounds and I may not want the flash to fire, I think it's better to turn these off piecemeal on their own by one at a time. I've seen a number of people who've turned this off saying, oh yeah I don't want the camera to make any noise. And then at some point later on, they're trying to add flash into a photograph and they can't figure out why the flash won't work. And it's because it's been turned off by this piece here. And so there are other ways of doing it, but this is a one quick way of just turning everything off very very quickly. If you wanna control the sounds that the camera makes, you can get in and go into the sub-menu of the sound setup menu. So let's take a look in here. We have the overall operational volume and this is the first camera. We're gonna do a little audio check. So audio guys, let's get on the mic here. This is the first camera that I've ever seen that sounds like a frog. It honestly sounds like a frog. In case you haven't seen this, let me turn this on. And I'm gonna change the shutter speeds. And let me see, where's my microphone. (camera clicking) It sounds like a frog to me. And so if you don't want it making that noise, you can dive in here to the sound setup menu and turn it off and well, I love little frogs, but I don't like frog noises at times when I want it to be quiet. So I would shut it down. The shutter volume you can have, because when it has an electronic shutter it doesn't have the shutter working so it will add its own electronic shutter sound to it. So you can turn that off as well. I like to keep those things nice and quiet. And if you do wanna have the shutter sound, there are three different sounds that you can choose from. But if you turn the previous one off, these won't matter here at all. And then if you are playing movies back, it is something I would wanna hear the sound with on that. So if you hear somebody talking, you wanna hear what they're saying, you can control the volume on this. Kinda the middle of the range is seven. And that'll allow you to go up and down later on as need be. So that is the sound set-up menu. Screen set-up. Okay, here's another one. This is a fairly lengthy menu within a menu. All right, so in the screen set-up menu, the image display. So once you have taken a photograph, how long would you like to see that image on the screen in front of you, whether it be the EVF or the LCD? Now the average person is probably gonna be fine with about a second and a half to see, okay yeah, I got the shot. It worked out. But once you get used to working with the mirrorless cameras, I found that you don't need to do image reviews in most cases because the preview that you are getting is virtually exactly the same thing as the image that you're going to take. And the only reason that I would turn this on is if you were reviewing any sort of peak action moment where you're trying to see if you got the timing exactly on. But for most types of photography, I would think that you can turn this off and it's just gonna speed up the process 'cause you don't have to review every image once you've shot it. You can quickly move on to the second and next following images. Another very cool feature that is only on the Fuji cameras is where it will rotate the information when you rotate the camera vertically. So when you shoot a vertical, it's gonna switch around the shutter speeds and the aperture so that you can read them more easily in a vertical manner. It's very easy to do and if you like it, then leave this turned on. Preview exposure in manual mode. I like this turned on because if I look at the screen and it's dark, I probably know that I need to adjust my shutter speed, apertures, or ISOs. And so the brightness of the screen is an indication of what the final image is going to look like. Now the time that I would turn this off is if I'm working in the studio or if I'm working with flash photography because the preview that I'm looking at is not a true representation of what's gonna happen when the picture is actually taken and a flash is gonna be fired. And so for most types of work, I would say leave this turned on. If you're in the studio or working with a lighting source that is changing when you actually shoot the photograph, then you can turn this off. If you wanna go in and tweak the brightness of the electronic viewfinder, you can. Normally you're just gonna leave this in manual in about the middle of the spectrum. You can change the color. If the color seems to be off for some reason, I hope you don't need to change this, but it changes on a yellow to blue spectrum. You can change the brightness of the LCD on the back of the camera. And you can change the color on the back of the camera if for some reason it drifts after a period of time. Hopefully it will not. Preview picture effects. So if you remember those filter modes where it's kinda the Instagram filters where it's the toy camera and the super contrasting mode. Things like that. Well, do you wanna see that when you're actually shooting photos? Well, it makes sense to see it because you get to see exactly what the picture's gonna look like. But there's some cases where it might distract from you focusing or composing the image. And so you can turn it off and only have those effects applied to the final photograph. And I think most people are gonna wanna see it, what it looks like in camera. And that's why you have it turned on. But I can see there's a good reason for turning it off in some special situations. Framing guidelines. If you wanna have some guidelines turned on in the frame, do you wanna choose a grid of nine, a grid of 24, or the HD framing where it shows you where the final HD frame is going to be. Now while I mention this, this is not turning the grids on and off. It's just choosing which ones you would have if you had the grids turned on and off. And so when you wanna turn the grids on, there's kind of two areas you need to go to. This being the first to choose what do I wanna have on hand when these things get turned on. Autorotate in playback. So when you leave this turned on, it will automatically rotate vertical images so that you can see 'em if you were going to be doing a slideshow and the camera was in a normal horizontal position. Or if you were going to be hooking it up to a TV or monitor. If you leave it turned off, which is what I prefer, it uses the full image area of the screen and will give you a little better look and magnification at vertical images that you've shot. And so as long as you're not hooking it up to do a slideshow, I would leave this turned off so that you could get the biggest look at your images on the back of the camera. So focus check allows you to magnify in and see if you are actually getting a sharp focus. And so what you will do here is in manual focus you'll press the button and you'll zoom in and you can see if you got sharp focus. And so I usually like to leave that turned on. Focusing scale units. There is a focusing inside, the focusing reference in the back of the camera that will tell you where you are focused. And meters are clearly superior to feet, so you wanna have it at meters unless you don't know what a meter is and then you could probably should put it at feet then. All right, display custom setting. And so here you can go in and you get to choose which information you see in the camera. And so there's all this extra information you can see in the red boxes that I prefer not to have cluttering up the screen. And so kinda my default thing is to go in and turn as many things off as possible and only turn on what I really want to have turned on. So let's take a look at my camera here and I wanna jump in here and see what we can change. So we're on the screen set-up mode. So let's see, we're down here. And screen set-up in the sub-menu down here. And we are at display custom settings, so I go down a couple pages. Display custom settings. So I'm gonna go to the right 'cause you see the arrow over to the right. And there's all these different check boxes and if you don't want something, you can start unchecking all these things. And probably a good thing to do is just uncheck everything. Go back to the top of the list and figure out, what do I really need to know when I'm shooting a particular photograph? And the one thing that I wanted to show you which I thought was kind of cool in the camera is the electronic level. So I'm gonna turn that on and that's gonna be the only thing I turn on. And then I'm gonna hit the back button to exit out of this. And so now you can see, there's a horizon line. And if I get it just right, it's gonna turn green. So right there, I know that I have a horizon line that's even. And everything else has been cleared out. And so then you can go back in whoops. Make sure I'm in the right area. Screen set-up. And I'm gonna go backwards through this 'cause you can go up and down. And then you can just go through to figure out what you would like in there. And so for instance, I like the distance indicator. I think that's pretty cool for both auto-focus and manual focus. Let's see what else is in there. Shooting mode. I usually know what that is, but that doesn't take up very much space or all that. Definitely want aperture, shutter speeds, and ISO. Exposure compensation. I wanna make sure that that doesn't get bumped. Don't need metering. Shutter type, don't really need that. I'll put white balance in there. Let's put battery level just to make sure we know 'cause battery life is real important on this. And so now if we take a look at the screen, I've added in shutter speed, aperture, mode information, battery life on it. And so I've really been able to customize exactly to the information that I want. Remember you can hit the display button and have just the straight image. Or go back to this information screen where this is our customized display. And so that's where you would go in and customize that display. And it's really nice at how much that you can take in and take out of there. And so please customize as much as you possibly can. So that was our screen set-up mode. Page two set-up menu, button/dial setting. Another sub-menu to dive into folks. So first up, function settings. If you recall, this camera has how many different function buttons? Function one is the video record button. Function two is the front dial that when you press in, it becomes a button. It's both a button and a dial at the same time. Functions three, four, five, and six and seven are all on the back of the camera. And so each of these can perform a separate function for you. And so you get to choose which these functions are. It's not an unlimited choice, but there's a pretty good selection of things that you can choose each of those to do. Now the other option, and we talked about this a little earlier, is the selector on the back of the camera can either be those function buttons three, four, five, and six, or they can be exclusively used for moving your focusing box left, right, and up and down. And that just depends on what's more important to you, those functions or moving the focus box around. Next up is the ability to edit and save a different quick menu. And here's where we get to choose what is in the quick menu and where is it in the quick menu. And so this is one of those other little things that you might spend 10 or 15 minutes customizing and realize that you can get to the 16 different features very quickly with that Q button. And so this is one of the most customizable cameras I know of out on the market today. The command dials, the front command dial. And so the front and the rear command dial can be swapped. If you want shutter speeds to be done with one dial and not the other, you can flip 'em around to find any way that you want them. All right, so the auto exposure lock and the auto-focus lock buttons on the back of the camera, as I mentioned before, can be switched. And so if you want them to perform the opposite duties, you can swap them here by choosing the second option. But normally most people just leave it as is. And so that is our sub-menu within the button/dial settings. Moving forward, the focus ring. We can choose which direction our lens will focus to get to infinity. And we have the standard way and then we have the reverse, which is only used by Nikon as far as I know of. It kinda has a reverse focusing system. And so you can choose whatever one feels more comfortable for you. There's a couple different options. So we're gonna have a little sub-menu for the power management options. Jumping in here, the first option is how quickly do you want your camera to power down? And two minutes seems to be a reasonable amount of time. But you can adjust up or down from there. There is a high performance option that I believe is not normally turned on on this camera. By turning this on, the camera will turn on a little bit more quickly and you'll get a little bit more quick auto-focus. And what I think is going on, and they're not totally clear about this from Fuji, is that they're tapping a little bit more power from the battery to get a little bit more boost in the performance. It will mean shorter battery life. And so that is a compromise that you'll need to make. But I usually wanna get the highest performance out of my camera, which is why I'm gonna leave this turned on. And those are the two items in the power management options. Next up is sensor cleaning. When you turn the camera on and off, the camera automatically goes through sensor cleaning, but we do have another option here where we can tell it to clean right now. But turning the camera on and off will also do the same thing. You can tell it to switch it, to clean it only when it turns on or only when it turns off. So kind of your call on this one. I often do it when it's turning it off because I don't need the use of the camera and I don't wanna interrupt the cycle. And it will happen every time I turn it off. When I turn it on, sometimes I need to shoot real quickly. And so I press down on the shutter release and it stops that cleaning process. Now if you do need to clean the sensor yourself, there's kind of two different stages that you can go through. Stage one is pretty easy. You get one of these air blowers and you carefully just blow air onto the sensor itself. Do not use the cans of compressed air. They have propellants in them and they may damage the sensor. This is a non-battery operated air blower. It's just something you squeeze in your hand and it blows the dust off. If you need to go one step further, not for everybody, but is a sensor swab system that you use with some alcohol. And what you'll do in this case is you'll take a swab and you'll swipe across the sensor, cleaning off the dust. Save data set-up. And so this is gonna dive into another little sub-menu here. First option here is on the naming of the file numbers. So normally the camera will name your files this DSF number and then it has a four digit number. So it'll count up to 10,000 and reset itself. And it's best just to leave it in the continuous mode in most situations. But if you needed that number to renew back at one, you could have it renew back at one. Next up is save the original image. If you recall on the red eye reduction, it's a feature that the camera fixed a JPEG image that had a red eye problem. And so in this case what it would do is it would save the original image. And then it would try to fix it. And that way in case the fix didn't go so well and didn't look so good, you have the original image that you can work with later. And so I would recommend doing that just in case the software of the camera didn't do a very good job. If you wanna change the file name on the camera, you can change it whether you are selecting for sRGB or AdobeRGB images. And if you're not sure what that is, we're gonna get to that in a moment somewhere else on the camera. But, this is where you can change the file naming. For instance, if you have sRGB set, you can change the first four letters of the name of your photo. So you could put your name in, if you have a short name. Or you could put your initials in for either of these. And so if you want to change those file names to something, you don't have much options here, but you do have the different letters that you can input. And so all of this is in the save data set-up sub-menu. So the color space is the range of colors that we choose from. When you shoot with a RAW image, you get the AdobeRBG, which is the larger color gamut. But when you shoot with JPEGs, you can either choose the standard sRBG, and this is what most of the internet colors are displayed at, or the larger AdobeRGB color spectrum. And I'm always thinking that I wanna get the largest range of colors in case I wanna do printing or use the photograph for something that can really take advantage of that wider range of colors. And so my recommendation is AdobeRGB. If everything you did was on the internet, you'd be totally fine at leaving it at sRGB. Next up is connection settings. And here we're gonna head into a rabbit hole of sub-menus. And there's a lot of little dead ends. And we're gonna be going in and out of these dead ends fairly quickly. So the wireless settings are gonna allow us to go in and tweak some of the basic settings. So within that we have general settings and within that, we could change the name of the camera if we need to. We could reset all the wireless settings. For instance, I have my camera set up with my phone. If I was going to sell my camera, I might go in and reset so that my camera no longer recognizes my phone straight outta the gate. Next up we'll have resize image for smartphone. When you download your images to your smartphone, you're probably gonna wanna downsize your images because it shoots a 16 megapixel image, which is enormous for a phone to handle. And so downsizing that is a smart choice for most people in most cases. You can also use this camera to hook up to a computer to save images wirelessly to your computer. These are one of the options that you can go in and tweak with. Very few people do that. It's faster just to take the card out of the camera and send it to the computer. But we do have a number of set-up options, whether you use either a simple set-up or a more manual set-up, depending on the type of system that you have. Once again, it's one of those things that's available on the camera, but very few people use. Also with the wireless connection, you can also have some controls over the geotagging which is using the location information from your phone and tagging your images with it. Now this will be using a fair bit more battery power if this is something that you wanna have enabled. It seems like a very cool feature to me, but it comes at the expense of a lot of battery power. And so we have geotagging. And then location information adding to the images as well. And so, lot of information inside that sub-menu. We are also connecting up to that instax printer wirelessly. And this is where we have controls over setting that up. Back into the set-up menu. Back out of the rabbit hole. Onto the final page, we have format. And this is where we are deleting images on the memory card and deleting all the data directories and the ghost folders and everything else that might be stored on that memory card. And this is something I recommend doing on a regular basis. My typical work flow after I go out and shoot is I download my images, I back them up on a separate hard drive, I put the card back in the camera, and I format the camera. I wanna get rid of all the images and everything. And I wanna have a clean, fresh card for the next trip that I go out on. You don't wanna be going on a long trip with a bunch of images on your card 'cause something could happen to the card or to the camera. It's best to download these images on a regular basis. And folks, that's your menu system there. That is everything in there in a nut shell. There's a lot of things we went through very quickly, but as you saw before, there's a lot of things that's doubled up into quick menu. Get your camera set up the way you want it to. Get your camera customized with the displays, the bracketing type system. There's a lot of customization that you can do on this camera. A lot of fun.

Class Description

Dense technical manuals make for a terrible first date. Get the most out of your new Fuji X-T10 with this complete step-by-step walkthrough of the camera’s features. Join expert photographer John Greengo for a fast-track introduction, and unlock your camera’s full potential.

In this fast start, you’ll learn:

  • How to use the autofocus system
  • How to use and customize the menus
  • How to use the X-T10’s video capabilities

This fast start includes a complete breakdown of your camera’s exposure, focus, metering, video and more. John will also explain how to customize the X-T10’s settings to work for your style of photography.  


Dan Meylor

I purchased my Fujifilm X-T10 over a year ago and recently realized that I wasn't using it to its fullest extent. John's Greengo's video on its use opened me to a wider use. The information is clear, well organized, sequential, and helpful. I don't have the time to read a small print booklet and found the visual presentation useful because I could go through the steps on my Fuji. I'm still a little unclear on the seven custom setting and think Fuji should explain what each does. Thanks, John, for your work and encouragement.


John Greengo's approach to teaching is the best. Each visual, each explanation and each example he demonstrated touched every sensory way of learning. The PDF print outs are a great bonus. Thank you for doing this video.


I'm thinking about purchasing an XT-20, this course was very helpful to understand the camera beforehand. note: the opening slide in John's (excellent) presentation, shows an XT-1 not an XT-10... but I'm buying an XT-20, I think I got that right. - perhaps just an Easter Egg hahaha