Custom Setting Menu: Shooting/Display

 

Nikon® D500 Fast Start

 

Lesson Info

Custom Setting Menu: Shooting/Display

Alright, moving over to d, shooting and display. So we talked about customizing the low speed setting on the motor drive. If you wanted to set this for something different, it's currently set at five frames. Remember, continuous high is set at 10 frames a second. And so if you need something a little different than that, here's where you can dial it in. Maximum continuous release is set at 200, which means that, if you were have this camera in one of those jpeg modes, you would just press down on the shutter release and the camera would fire 200 shots and it would stop. And the design for this is that, the reason for the design is that, if you were to put the camera in your camera bag, and somebody pushed up next to it in the airport, the luggage compartment above your head, the camera doesn't just continually fire for the entire time of the plane flight. It'll go through 200 shots and then it will stop. And so, when you see the terms, the fact that the camera has a 200 shot buffer, th...

at's really the limitation. You could shoot through 200 shots, lift your finger up for a fraction of a second, put it back down, and shoot another 200 shots in many cases. And so it's just a limiting factor, and if you want to have it set at a lower number, you can. But 200 is the maximum number. ISO display, and so I mentioned in the viewfinder, one of my little gripes was that you can't see the ISO and the number of pictures at the exact same time. If you leave this set off, where it says, show frame count, in the brackets on the right-hand side, it's gonna show you the number of pictures that you can shoot, totally left, but it'll also show you your buffer size, which is usually an R number like R22. That means you have 22 shots you can shoot right away. But if you put this in the mode where it says on, what's gonna happen is, it's gonna put the ISO in there. And it will actually switch back and forth between the number of shots left and the ISO. And so I think that's a good system to have, because being able to see where your ISO is at is a very important thing, and you'll be able to see that right in the viewfinder. So synchronized release mode options, and so what's happening here is, if you were gonna have this camera hooked up to multiple cameras and a remote system, there are two options, you can sync everything with the master camera, so all the cameras fire at the same time, or that they're synchronizing with the remote. And it's quite possible, if you do it with the remote, which would be the no sync option, when I trigger this and I've got cameras all over the place, this camera's gonna fire fractionally before that camera that's way over there, because the signal takes longer to get to it. And so, a lot of times, one of the things like Sports Illustrated would do is that they will put remote cameras in various locations. And they'll have somebody who fires it, and it takes pictures with multiple cameras at exactly the same time. And generally, what they're looking for is, they wanna get that exact same moment. Now if you did want a slight delay, you could put this in no sync. Some of them might actually react a little bit faster, but in the sync mode, there might be a little extra delay, but those multiple cameras will all fire at the same time then. Exposure delay mode, this is more of a, this is like a self-timer. It's something I would think of being used in a laboratory, where there might be vibrations and they need to trigger the camera and move away from it a little bit. And so this is something that can be added onto a self-timer but is very much the same type of operation. It just delays the firing of the camera by a second or two or three. Electronic front-curtain shutter, alright, this is where things get a little interesting, okay. So let's take a look at what's going on at the shutter unit in the camera. So our sensor has a shutter above it and below it, our first curtain and our second curtain. And so when you take a photo, the shutter curtain goes up, and it goes up so fast that there is a little bit of vibration that might cause a loss of sharpness in the image. And because of this, that's why we put our camera in mirror lock-up, to get rid of the mirror vibration, but there is still shutter vibration in some situations. And then the bottom unit will come up and turn off the exposure. So what an electronic front curtain does is, it no longer moves the front curtain. What it does is, the front curtain opens up, the vibrations go away, and then it electronically turns on the pixels one row at a time, very quickly, followed by the shutter curtain closing behind it. And so the first curtain starts the exposure electronically. And this means that you're not gonna get any vibration. Now it's pretty rare that you're going to get a vibration from the shutter movement. But it depends on the lens and how steady your camera is on the platform or tripod that it's on, and so it's just an additional way for having more vibration taken out of that particular unit at that time. It's also gonna be a way for you to quiet the shutter down when you're working in the live view mode. And so this does have some limitations as far as the highest ISO that you can use, as well as the maximum shutter speed that you can use with it. And so this is something that you would normally leave disabled, but from time to time, it may be beneficial. And this is something that you use in the live view mode. File numbering sequence, and so as you take photos, the camera automatically numbers the files. And if you wanted to go in and reset this, you could. Generally, it's not something most people worry about doing, because their cameras just keep a constant count. It counts up to 10,000 and then resets back down to zero. So if you wanted to reset right now, you could. You remember, in the viewfinder, we could turn on a grid. Well this is where we turn it on. So if you like that extra grid for compositional reasons or leveling the horizon, one of the ways in which you can do it. Typically, my recommendation is to leave all that stuff turned off, unless you specifically need it. Alright, LCD illumination, you remember how you flip that little switch to turn the light on? Well, you can turn that light on by pressing the buttons on the camera as well. And so if you want an easier access for turning that light on, and so pretty much all the buttons will activate that LCD on the camera. So it just depends on, how easily do you want that LCD illumination to be turned on. Normally, just rotating the switch should be fine. Optical VR, this will turn on the VR, only when the shutter button is pressed halfway down. Now this is an option on some of the big telephotos, they have a switch on the lens that controls it itself. But if, for some reason, it was hard to compose your photograph, because you've got this long lens and you're trying to follow this ski jumper, and you're trying to track their movement and you're trying to compensate for the camera's VR movement, sometimes that can be a little tricky, in certain types of tracking of some action. And so some photographers prefer to turn this off. It's something you'll need to test with your long lenses to see if it's something you need.

Class Description


We know what it’s like to dive right into taking pictures with your new camera. But dense technical manuals make for a terrible first date. Get the most out of your new Nikon® D500 with this complete step-by-step walkthrough of the camera’s features.

Join expert photographer John Greengo for a fast-track introduction, and unlock your camera’s full potential.  In this class you'll learn:


  • How to use the D500’s various shooting modes
  • How to use and customize the D500’s menus
  • How to master the 4K video function
John is a CreativeLive veteran instructor and an experienced photographer. He has extensive experience teaching the technical minutiae that makes any camera an effective tool: aperture, ISO, the Rule of Thirds, and the kinds of lenses you’ll need to suit your camera body. This Fast Start includes a complete breakdown of your camera’s exposure, focus, metering, video and more. John will also explain how to customize the Nikon D500’s settings to work for your style of photography.

Reviews

Christina Brittain
 

By The class. John is the gold standard for teaching. He repairs lessons to perfection. He speaks in ways students comprehend all that he presents. Never waste words. Never bores. Always demonstrates his points. I will continue to purchase his classes as they provide the best learning I have found. He is making me a much better photographer, both technically and creatively. You can't make good images if you don't know your gear. Hope he teaches lessons in Portland Oregon one day. I know Pro Photo Supply would sponsor him.

Adam Webster
 

I have to say I had been disappointed I had to work through parts of this course, it was so good! I purchased it, and going through it again was well worth it. I learned how to do so many of the functions, and when peered with John's Fundamentals, Lenses, and Nature/Landscape courses I think I have been taking much better pictures already. I do feel that if you have or are planning on getting the D500, this course and the others are very much worth it, and will help your techniques, getting you better photos.

Peter Rudy
 

As a amateur "enthusiast" who loves taking sports shots of my kids, I was scared the Nikon D500 was going to me too much camera for me. But after taking this class, I feel a lot better about my purchase and am really excited about getting out there and shooting. John's class is so much easier than reading through a long manual. I wish there was a course like this for every camera I have purchased in my lifetime! Highly recommended.