Nikon® D7100 / D7200 Fast Start

Lesson 4 of 16

Buttons Continued

 

Nikon® D7100 / D7200 Fast Start

Lesson 4 of 16

Buttons Continued

 

Lesson Info

Buttons Continued

For changing the esso, which is the sensitivity of the sensor and every once in a while somebody says what is so mean? It's not important, okay, but it does stand for international standards organization and it basically means s o one hundred on this night gone is the same it is as it is on a cannon or pentax or fuji or something else it's just a standard that they have that everyone in here is too and so by pressing the button and turning the command, I'll you khun dial through the different isos and they'll started as a one hundred they'll go upto s o sixty four hundred, but as you can see by the list on screen with the little red ass trick marks, you can actually go beyond that. You do need to go into the menu system to kind of turn on these little locks that are currently on the cameras so there's a low set low one and when it says low one, what that means is it's one stop lower than s o one hundred, which would be fifty and they could just simply put fifty there but they don't and...

I don't know why the same thing on the high high one is double sixty four hundred so it's twelve thousand eight hundred high two is twenty five thousand six hundred and they could just simply put the numbers there now one thing you can also do is press theis o button and turn the subcommander I'll out in the front of the camera to turn the auto setting on and off in auto eso the camera will go up and down and use whatever s so it is thinks is necessary in order for taking pictures, and this could work well in the program notes where the camera's just going to do everything it might work well in the shutter priority mode, as I mentioned before, where you have a very specific shutter speed that you were going after, and you just want to let the esso waver a little bit in a certain range to figure out the rest of it. Now, one of the things that you can also do an esso is you can limit enought oso how high up it goes and you can also dictate us to what shutter speeds you'll let the camera go down, too, before it starts changing the esso. So for anyone who really wants to customize auto, so you'll seymour in just a second. But I did do some test shooting with this camera, and I just kind of just take my little standard little micro camera, shoot a picture of it, blow it up and shoot it at a bunch of different esos and so just in case you can't see the screen real clearly you were going to have fantastic quality results from s o one hundred up through eight hundred let's just go up to the top of the line and look a twenty five thousand there it is definitely what we call a little crunchy it's noisy thie signal is being amplified a lot there's not a lot of good information you're not going to get good image quality of twenty five thousand if you have to use it you have to use it but I would really try to avoid it. Twelve thousand eight hundred is still pretty rough sixty four hundred looks amazingly good for twenty four megapixel camera on a cropped frame sensor still for those who really want the finest quality details say you're doing portrait photography or you're doing landscape photography you're definitely gonna want to keep it down probably around sixteen hundred or lower the easy and simple fact with all of this is that lower the number the better with the exception of going from one hundred down two fifties you want to get down to one hundred and so in photography it's just a little bit of a game you start at one hundred u go up as necessary and it just gets a little bit worse with each step up that you go I see nick, you have a microphone in hand did you have a question that you were ready for right now just minor question I guess in regards to the lighting that would be available for that style of picture is that mainly going to be affected greatly by the iso like if you know you like you're talking about the shutter speed everything with your eyes? So um where is that going to be best placed at so far? What if it's you know a little bit darker and izo is on auto or something? Where would it mostly kind of go towards? Um I'm not a hundred percent certain on your question try to guess your well it depends on kind of where you're set on cheddar speed aperture and what's being automatically taking care of the cameras auto eso is always just looking at the camera's light meter and it's tryingto average out whatever its looking at as middle tone grey and if it's black it actually tries to lighten black up to a gray and you might see even mohr noise in that I'm not sure how would this be a solution is almost like digitally enhancing it. Yeah, and so what's actually happening is a lot of people think that when they too put their camera also thirty, two hundred their sensor is more sensitive to light and that's not the case their sensor is always the same sensitivity it's just amplifying the signal it's kind of like an old tv if you're too young to know this, but old tv's had a brightness knob on it that you could turn up the brightness and just make it brighter. Remember that? Okay, ideo should have one of the dialogue, you know, the old dial. It is turning up the brightness, you know. And that's, what it's doing is it's just turning up the signal that the tv received its not making the actual picture brighter? I mean, what you see is brighter. It was just more of a question of is is light still affecting that? Mohr you know, it could happen under any light. You can shoot twenty five thousand out in bright sunlight and see the same problem. You it'll become more noticeable in shadow areas, and so because of the the blacks and you're going to notice it in the black smoke where there's even less light and so we're going to talk a little bit more about customizing isso. We'll talk a little bit about noise reduction because the camera has a built in option to reduce the noise if you have to shoot up at high levels, but you can also do it manually in other programs like light room were photoshopped, for instance, but these air, the basic controls for the so and where you shoot depends on exactly your shooting. For most people who are trying to get the highest quality pictures out of their camera, they're going to leave it at s o one hundred, and they're going to stick to s o one hundred as much of the time as they can. And so for myself, I'm at s o one hundred maybe fifty or sixty percent of the time, but for a variety of reasons that we don't have time to get into in this class, I'll put it up to two hundred or four hundred cause I'm trying to achieve a different shutter speed or aperture, and I have to, but with the camera I would feel quite comfortable shooting everything up through eight hundred and still pretty comfortable at sixteen, thirty two and sixty four hundred it's just all depends on where you want to draw that line. So is the low mega seven has asked, how do I access the also fifty setting? I'm assuming that that's equivalent to the low one s o fifty low one are exactly the same thing, and to access it, you gotta stick with the class you gotta follow through to the menu settings because in one of the men you settings, we can go in and we can come in. Take off these little locks that are on the restrictions right now they don't allow you into that mode and you have to go in and turn off those locks and so we'll do that in the menu city and uh barnacle ass is there any way to display on top of both the esso setting and the frames remaining when you turn on this special mode that I talked about before that shows you the s o it will switch back to the frames I believe my camera's not set up right now for it but I believe it will switch back two frames left when you press down on the shutter release and so it's s o and then it switches over to remaining frames and so yes it will show you both but just not at the same time great and I think we can move on okay excellent. All right so the I button is a brand new button on nikon camera so we're going to see this I button my guess is on all new nikon cameras and nikon has put this in there to have a little bit more direct access control to some of the features those coming from say cannon have a queue button and it kind of does the same thing what it is this is a shortcut to some menu features it's also just another way to jump in and make some changes on the camera and it works differently in different modes we haven't talked about live you yet we're going to do it in a moment, but when you have your camera turned on in live, you mode if you press the eye button, you can see a list on screen here, off the different options and features that you can go in and turn on and turn off, and we're not going to go in and talk about all these right now we've already talked about image, size and image quality. We'll talk about the other ones as we get through the camera, but it's a short cut to some of the menu features that will be going into if you are in the playback mode and you're looking at an image, you can hit the eye button and you can go into the retouch menu. This is where you photoshopped your images and you khun crop them and do all sorts of goofy things with them and so that's second option and the third option is if you are in the movie mode, you can control image area and the rest of the list that you can see on screen here. All of these things are things that you can change in the menu setting is just it's just that the eye info is a shortcut to going in and changing these, and so we'll talk about these features in due time all right, along the top of the camera, we do have a removable I cup, sometimes these wear out with years of good service so you can go out, you can buy a new little like up, and your camera will comes to play with supplied with this little decay five and the reason it's there is if you want to do a self timer shot with the camera in program aperture, priority or shutter priority and let me show you on the camera here. The problem is, is that when you're shooting a picture in let's, say aperture priority, you have light coming in the front of the lens. You also have, like coming in the back of the winds when you hold it up to your eye. It's not a problem because your eyes blocking the light coming in, but when you decide to be in the picture yourself either for self timer shots or if it's on a tripod and light's coming in the back, it may affect your exposure, and so you're supposed to block it off. If you're right there, you can just put your hand up, but if you're doing a self timer, you're supposed to put this on here, I always find it a household. Take the cup off and use this piece so I just put my camera in manual and set my shutter speed an aperture to what's correct. So there's there's always more than one way around it, but that's, why you've got that little gadget next up is the die after diop ter is thief focusing of the viewfinder. It's not focusing on the lands it's, just the viewfinder that you were looking through. And so you want to make sure that you khun turn the style and you want to be able to see the lines of information at the bottom of the frame really clearly. And if it's not quite right, just to just that diop turd for your eyes, the one major I call it the thumb button because you've had it with your thumb very easily is the a l a f l, which stands for auto exposure lock and or auto focus lock what this does is it's going to lock the exposure or focus depending on what mood you're in normally right now, when you pick the camera and just pan it around, the exposure is constantly adjusting. If you want to lock it in, what you would do is you would press the button and let me just get this little try here, I make sure I'm an aperture priority. And I press it in and it is active on lee when I am pressing in on the button right now that's the way it's pre programmed as I have to hold my finger in on the butt remember, an icon likes you to hold the button down, so in that case, if I want to lock the exposure and I have to hold it in while I take the picture, the reason that you might use this let's say you're shooting a sunset and you got the camera pointed at the sun and it's really, really bright and it's throwing off your exposure so you move the camera a little off to the side, you locked the exposure and then you bring the sun back in the frame the way you want it framed up and then you take the picture and so you have to lock the exposure ad and then take the picture. Now you can also get it to lock the focus. We're going to talk about focus in a moment if you have the camera in a continuous focusing mode and you wanted to stop, you could hold the button in a swell. Now one of the nice things about this button is that you can go in and program it either by going into the custom menu, or you can get to that through a shortcut in the eye button you can go in and customize thie, f, l button and there's about five different options that you can program it to, and one of the modes that a lot of professionals and serious photographers like to use is too turn off the f l because they're using manual mode, and if you shoot manual, the auto focus auto exposure lock doesn't really matter that much, and they turn this into an auto focus on button, so you would activate the focusing by pressing your thumb in the back of the camera. That way, when you take the picture, the camera doesn't focus, and so you need two fingers to focus, and this is really nice in a variety of situations where you're focusing and re composing, you don't have to constantly re adjust the camera and it's, not something for everybody. It takes a little while to get used to, but it is a little bit more advanced technique that, frankly, I didn't think I would like, but once I got using it for a while, I'm a big proponent of it now, and so something to experiment if you're on the slightly more advanced side downside is, is that you have to press two buttons to focus downside is that you don't have to re focus, so have some fun playing with that, if you want. Next up we have a command idol we have already talked quite a bit about that we have our multi selector, which we've dealt with before, but the main reason we're using the multi selector in the shooting mode is for changing where are focusing point is we have fifty one focusing points and we can choose individually where we want that point to be and we could just go up down left right to move that focusing point around in the playback mode it's going to work with the retouch menu and in the menus hits actually I'm talking about the ok button excuse me if you press the okay button in the shooting mode it's going to go straight to the center point? The multi selector will allow you to go to different points when you're in the playback mode, it'll activate the retouch menu pressing the ok button and then all the menus it's just confirming the setting and if you want to you can go in the custom menu and you can customize exactly what does the ok button do or not do in its different moz if you accidentally press that button from time to time and you don't want it to do something, you can turn that off, which can be handy for people like myself who are left eye and their nose hits the ok button when you're holding the camera, I'm goofy idea if you're right idea, correct, if your left I'd like me, you're wrong, ok? Next up, the whole indicator that little multi selector does get hit by people like me with thehe left eye, and there is a selector lock at the bottom, which you can move, swing over to the side and you can lock the multi selectors. You don't accidentally reposition the focusing point all the time and so nice little locking device just with your thumb back and forth, right? All right, this is really quick thing, and the children says that there are a lot of questions about back focus or about back button focussing bruce j sixty seven, asking you use the back button focus and still keep the a f l feature no that's, one of the problems with this is that there's only one button if you want to buttons. There is another couple of cameras higher up in the nyc online up the d six hundred eight hundred. They have the extra two buttons, but you have one button and you've got to make some serious choices with it. Wait, I have the microphone, so it sounds like a good questions grab the microphone s o you can't have the auto focus from the shutter button and the focus lock on and those that know nose to nose you, khun d'oh. Okay, so you know that was that's if it's not customized like you went, you customize this to be auto focus. Locke, um, you think if you could customize the shutter release to be exposure lock and I don't think you can, there are some cameras that you can't and so the implications would be you. You can do focus lock with the back button it's really sophisticated. You pressed down to focus and you take your finger off the lock because it it stops focusing. I know the seahawks photographer was explaining the technique that he uses. He uses back button focusing for sports and he's shooting the scene, and when a referee or a player gets between him and his subject, he releases his finger off the focusing button still shooting pictures because something might happen kind of in between is it's slightly obscured when the obstruction gets out of the way he returns to pressing on the button, which is a very good technique. He's good. I mean, this is the toilet of a pianist, you know the very heart of the finger dexterity, timing it to the second that requires a lot of practice to get it done right, and so you can use that for a focusing lock in that manner

Class Description


Join John Greengo for an in-depth step-by-step tour of the Nikon® D7100.  With a hands-on introduction to your camera's operations, detailed instructions on how all the menus work, and instruction on how to shoot great photos with this specific camera model. 

Please note: a video addendum segment has been added to the course page with updated information on the Nikon® D7200.

Reviews

judy49
 

I'm sold. Can't wait to upgrade from my D5200 to the D7100. Thanks to John I have just been convinced of what I have been reading about this camera. And John is much more interesting than a manual. Since I now own this video, I can re-watch it when I get the camera. I have watched and purchased John Greengo's videos several times, and he never ceases to amaze me. I have been shooting for about 18 months, and really have developed a real passion for the art. At 65 years old, its not as easy as maybe it would have been years ago, but with the help with instructors like John Greengo, and others on Creative Live, I'm on my way to an exciting retirement.

user e35335
 

I think Nikon should supply this course as part of the purchase price, it's that good. John is a great ambassador for the Nikon brand and there can be no better way to get immediate confidence in your new camera. He has a calm engaging manner, is very fluent (no umm's & err's) and is a true inspiration. I owned the camera for a couple of months before I came across this course and my hit rate has dramatically improved with his instruction. I have gone on to purchase "The fundamentals of photography" and the fast start for my other camera OMD EM1, both equally excellent.

~user-458e96
 

This is my first experience with a DSLR and John's class and instruction style is excellent and easy to understand his instructions. I purchases the D7100 and am happy that I can watch this video again and again to increase my knowledge of this wonderful camera. I am so satisfied with John's style of instruction I intend to purchase "Fundamentals of Digital Photography 2014" Thank you CreativeLive. eddyhc1