Timer & Bracketing Menus
Standby timer, all right, so when the camera is on, how quickly do you want it to shut down as soon as the, so how quickly do you want the camera to turn off after you've left it on for a little bit of time? And so, this is a little bit on battery savings, a little bit on convenience, and so you may wanna leave it on longer if you need to look at the menu systems for a little bit longer. Self-timer is gonna dive us into a sub-menu and this is gonna allow us to adjust the Self-timer delay. If you wanna get in the shot yourself, that's 10 and 20 seconds. If you're using it off of a tripod and you just want to have a delay for the vibrations of pressing the shutter release, that would be two and five seconds. You can choose a Number of shots, so if you're gonna do a group shot, good time to set that for three, four, or five pictures, so in case somebody blinks or turns away. And then, the Interval between the shots, you get to choose a little bit of time difference, depending on what work...
s for what you're shooting right there, so those were all under the Self-timer option. Next up is Monitor off delay, so the LCD is the monitor on the back of the camera. How quickly do you want that or how do you want that to turn off? And so, there's a number of different options in here, so under Playback, Menus, Image review, Live view. Nikon has some default settings put in here, but if you don't like those settings, you can go in and adjust any one of them to be a little bit shorter or a little bit longer if you want that to remain on quicker or you want it to conserve battery power a little bit more quickly. Remote on duration, and so, if you do have this Wireless Remote, how long do you wanna leave the camera on and active for while it's looking for that signal? The longer it is on, the more battery life that you will use. Shooting/display and so, in this case, shooting the Continuous Low mode. I mentioned earlier on that the Continuous Low mode can be adjusted to particular numbers, and so, if you wanna set a particular number of frames per second that the CL mode is set at, you can do so here. The Max. continuous release is currently set at and it is set here for the basic reason that if you were to shove your camera into a camera bag with it turned on, it could only take up to 100 photos. The shutter wouldn't fire continuously and so it's just kind of a safety protocol in case something accidentally started triggering the camera in a place where you didn't even know it was taking photos, and the shutter would wear out if you left it go too long. The Exposure delay mode, this is gonna be good for people who do wanna use the Mirror Lock-Up mode on the camera, but also want a slight delay between the mirror going up and the picture being taken, and so, for people doing landscape photography, working off a tripod, macro photography, this is a good option for having a slight delay between the shutter going up and the actual picture being taken. The Electronic front shutter curtain is gonna be an option when you are shooting in the Live view mode, so let's talk about the way the shutters work and what an Electronic Shutter is. With a Normal Shutter operation, we have a First Curtain Shutter and we have a Second Curtain Shutter, and in the Live view mode, they're open so that you can see what's going on 'cause information is coming in to the sensor. What happens when a picture is taken is that the shutter closes and then it opens, and there's sometimes a bit of vibration caused by the shutter movements back and forth, and so, it could cause a little bit of blur in some types of photography. And then, the Second Curtain will then close and end the exposure. With the Electronic Front Curtain Shutter, what happens is, the camera electronically just turns on the pixels, starts recording the light, and so there is no First Curtain movement, it's all just electronic. Nikon has this pretty well dialed in so that you can use this without any problems with subjects that are moving and at different shutter speeds. It's gonna reduce the vibration in your camera when you are using the camera in a Live view mode, and it seems to work for just about everything. You can turn it off if you need to, you may need to turn it off and you would turn it off for using flash photography, but for everything else, I think I would leave it turned on. File number sequence, and so, when you shoot on the camera, it records a file number for each of the images and you can adjust those numbers if you want. Leaving it on, it just simply counts up. When you turn it off, it'll reset when you format the camera and then, if you wanna reset it right now, you could select the Reset option. Viewfinder grid display, we'll turn on the grid that we talked about in the Viewfinder, good for composition or level horizons. ISO display, so normally in the Nikon display, you do not get to see what the ISO is. On the right-hand side, you see the Buffer size, which is how many images you can take right away on the camera. If you turn ISO display on, it replaces the Buffer size with the ISO settings so that you can see the ISO setting on a regular basis. When you do press halfway down on the shutter release, though, you will get your remaining photos in there. And so, it depends on what's more important to you, and I think for a lot of people that ISO setting is more critical, most of the time. LCD illumination deals with the illumination of the control panel on the top of the camera. Normally, you rotate the On/Off collar all the way so that it turns on the lights so you can see what's going on up there. If you wanna turn the LCD illumination on, it'll turn on with any of the other active buttons on the camera. This'll also work for a number of the buttons on the back of the camera, and so, how often do you want that light going on? When you turn the collar or when you press any button? Next grouping, Bracketing and flash. Flash sync speed, and so when you are using flash, do you have a preferred choice of shutter speed that the camera will use when a flash is hooked up to it? Flash shutter speed deals with the minimum shutter speed that the camera will use when it's in the Program or Aperture-Priority mode. In here, you wanna be thinking about how steady you can hand-hold the camera and how much subject movement you're gonna be photographing. And so, a lot of times photographers like to drag that Second Shutter Curtain, meaning using a slower shutter speed, like 1/15 of a second, to allow in some of that more ambient light. Exposure compensation for flash, you can choose either the Entire frame or Background only. So, when you're choosing the Exposure compensation, do you want that to work for the flash or not? Essentially here, and so the more advanced photographers just want it to deal with the background information and if they need to adjust the flash power, they will go to the flash and adjust that power there separately. Autoflash ISO sensitivity control, and so, when you are using the flash and you have the camera in Auto ISO, do you want the camera judging that on the subject in the background or only the subject? And so, it kinda depends on how you are shooting and how much other control you have of your flash. Basic users are gonna want to have that subject and background where it's kind of all taken care of in one fell swoop. More advanced photographers will take care of the background separately and then work with their subject with this control. The Bracketing order can be changed. Normally it shoots the normal picture first, and then a dark one, and then a light one, but a lot of photographers who shoot a lot of bracketing prefer a series where it starts dark, goes middle, and then goes light. That way it's very easy to separate groups of bracketing shots as you're looking at them on your computer, and so, setting this to Under > MTR > over seems to be a good, logical choice for a lot of people.
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