all right, moving on to Group C, which deals with the release of the camera. So when the camera is in the single autofocus, do you wanna have the cameras on a release priority or a shutter priority? And in this case, it is on a focused Excuse me, a focus priority so that the camera has to be in focus to take a photo. And so if you put it, if you turn this on, you would be able to shoot out of focus photos. And this is something that most people kind of want to be slightly guarded against. And so I would leave this one turned off. The next one is when you were in the continuous autofocus ing mode. Do you want to be able to take out of focus photos so that you can get photos right when you press the shutter release? And there are some sports photographers who would prefer to turn this on because the focus is close enough and it's more important that they get the action it. But for most users, I'm gonna recommend leaving. This turned off so that the camera really tries hard to get things ...
in focus before it allows you to shoot the photo. We can then go in and control the low frames per second. So in the motor drive mode, you can choose high or low and low will be anywhere from 1 to 5 frames per second. If you choose the high fright frames per second, you'll be able to adjust that anywhere from 5 to frames per second, so it can fire very, very quickly for fast moving action. Now, we do also have the heart mode which remember, is the silent mode. And so this is where it uses the Elektronik shutter curtain. And so it's gonna make very little noise. And if you want, you can control the frame rate in both low and the high speed frames. And here you can actually get it squeezed all the way up to 11 frames per second. But be reminded it doesn't work well with fast action because of the rolling shutter effect on. So you have to be very careful about subjects that are moving back and forth. The image stabilizer mode, which we saw before in the Super Control panel, has another control. Here s I s one is your standard stabilization mode that most people are gonna wanna have it in. There is a movie mode that you can get into here, and so in em. One. Let's see, M one is a sensor shift and digital, which means it crops in on the frame and it digitally stabilizes your image. This is good for getting a very stable image, but it's bad because you lose wide angle capability and you're not using as much of your sensor. And so I think the more serious user is gonna use em. I s too, which is Onley using the censorship technology so that it's not changing the image quality as faras the resolution and the size of the sensor that you're using. So you're going to get all the white angle capabilities. Somebody who's using this in a more casual manner that just wants a steady shot would probably choose the M. I s one option, huh? All right, then we have our standards stabilization, whether you have it turned on or off. Not so much, which one you're using. And if you do have this turn on, it's possible that it may limit the speed at which you can shoot fast motor drive shots, but I think it's well worth it. If you're gonna hand hold your camera lot, I think it's probably worth it just to leave it on all the time. It doesn't use too much battery power. One of the options with the stabilization is whether you want to see that effect when you are pressing halfway down on the shutter release. In general, I like it because it helps stabilize the frame and I can compose a little bit more easily. But if you don't like it because it's hard to track the action, you can turn it off so that it only stabilizes during the actual exposure of the photograph. If you have a lens that has stabilization built into it, there's a number of Panasonic lenses, and I think of the office lenses. Most of the Olympus is have stabilization in the body, and so it's the Panasonic lenses that you're likely to find that might have a stabilization built into it. In generally lens, stabilization in the lends itself is superior to in the camera body because they're able to get the motors and the function really Taylor to that specific lens. And so I would leave. This turned on so that if you do start, turn on, put on a lens that has stabilization, it's going to use the best system available, which is the one in the lends itself. There is a option on release time lag, and surprisingly, my recommendation is to leave it on normal, not short. The reason that I would say this is that if you leave it on normal, it is consistent with all shutter speeds that you use. If you put it on short, it will fluctuate depending on this length of the shutter speed that you've chosen. And so it is a very, very slim disk difference between normal and short. You can try it yourself and see if you notice a difference, but there is a very, very slight difference between them.