Workflow is all the stuff that happens after you shoot the photo, and we're not going to spend a lot of time here, but I'm just going to talk about a few of the things that you want to think about and making sure that you are set up properly. It's relatively a slow process downloading straight from the camera using those USB cables that they come with. It's much easier, in many cases, to get a card reader, so that you don't have to have your camera out. All you need is your memory card. It will Download a little bit faster. If you can plug the card into your computer itself, that's even better, just for getting the images into the computer quickly. Photographers need to be able to look at their photos, they need to be able to compare them, to organize them. The most popular piece of software on the market today, and as it has been for the last several years, is Adobe Lightroom. It's a great program. I won't say that it's the most intuitive, easy to learn program. There's a little bit o...
f a learning curve to get into this, to understand where your photos are and that they're not lost, but once you get this figured out, which might take a class here at CreativeLive, or a book or a class on this, you're going to be just fine on it. The thing that I like about it, is that once you get into this, it's really easy. They have all these different little sliders, everything that you would want to do in photography that's just really quick and easy. Photography encompasses a lot of different styles of photography. I'm more of a Lightroom photographer, which means most of my images need just a little tweak. Pretty much all of my images have been tweaked just a little bit. I usually spend 10 seconds or less per image, working on my images. That doesn't mean I go change all of my images, only the winners get changed by those little 10 second tweaks. However, if you take a photograph like this and you're thinking, "That's not quite good enough. I think we need more birds there." (laughing) For this, where we're duplicating and copying a bird, we need something that can do a little bit more. So Adobe Photoshop is the industry standard when it comes to image manipulation. If you have a very creative thought process, and you want to create things that you can't capture in camera, Photoshop is the program to go to. There are a number of other very good programs, but this is the industry leading standard as far as what you can do for manipulating images. I find Photoshop useful for a few things, but I like trying to shoot straight in the camera. I don't need Photoshop for very many things at all anymore these days. I prefer Lightroom, but they're both valuable programs. If I had to give somebody advice on what should they buy, they should buy Lightroom as soon as they buy their camera and start figuring that out. That is very, very helpful because it's a cataloging system. They're going to stay organized with that, but you'll also be able to do most development things. Maybe after a year in photography, and you've got a lot of the camera stuff figured out, then you might want to either the basic Photoshop elements or the full-in Photoshop if you want to get into that style of image manipulation. You don't want to lost your data. Do not store your photos on your computer. That sounds really strange, but don't keep your photos on your computer. How many of you have photos on your phone right now, where that's the only place they are? If your phone is stolen or broken, those photos are gone forever. Photographers, get into backup and so because every hard drive will fail, whether it's a portable or a desktop style hard drive, you need to have everything on a second hard drive. Because really bad things sometimes happen, you should have them on a third drive, stored in a separate location. If you do not have this sort of set up, you are setting yourself up for a catastrophe. Every six months, on the little photo blogs that I go to, I read about some photographer, some lifetime, 20, 30 year photographer, that has lost their entire collection of work because they didn't follow the scenario and somebody broke into their house and they stole all their computers, or there was a fire in the house. You got to have your photos someplace else. An online storage, that's an option, if you want to do online storage. I'm not real happy with how fast they transmit. I have a lot of photos and it doesn't work real well for that, so I have a physical hard drive in a secret location and then I rotate it out every once in a while. If you're not doing that, think about how you would feel having everything you've done up to date gone. I would be devastated. So, ending on such a happy note like that (laughing) let's see if there's any questions about the workflow or any of those other issues that we've talked about.
I have people who are now paranoid online saying, "Oh no." (laughing) This is true. I mean, it really is smart to focus on your backup system, absolutely. We do have some questions. Grab a mic if you do have, in here. One that came through and had votes is from Peter Avadeer who says, "What are the low and high options in motor drive."
So, it depends on the camera, but low is a lower speed option. It's usually three frames per second. That's usually the option. The higher is usually the maximum that the camera can do; six, eight, ten, twelve, fourteen. It depends on the camera. In some of the higher end cameras, you can go in and customize where those numbers are. If you said, "Oh, I really need seven frames a second," you might be able to dial that in with some of the high end cameras.
Alright, just to make sure that everyone is understanding RAW and how it works, Arvin Serpod said, "Can I keep my light setting on cloudy all the time and change the light settings if I'm taking my photos in RAW file format? Does this affect the quality of the photo?"
So if you are shooting RAW, you can leave your white balance wherever you want. Now I tend to like to check my camera every once in a while, just to see that things look right, and so I tend, if it's a cloudy day, I'll put it in cloudy. If it's sunny, I'll put it in cloudy just because I want to get good feedback when I'm out working in the real world. But ultimately, if you shoot RAW, you can adjust it later. You don't have to do it in the field because you can do it later. The question is, would you rather do one step out in the field or 100 steps later on. If it's easy and convenient, do it in the field. If you get it wrong, don't worry about it, fix it later.