Adobe® Photoshop®: Creative Explorations, Lighting Effects & More


Lesson Info


Let's look at another few other ways it's kind of styling our image one thing that I think can make for a different looking image is to do what I call a panel aj we may have talked about panel lodges long time ago but I wanted just briefly cover them here there's a few settings that we might not have talked about in previous courses but a panel lodge is a word that I've invented and it's a combination of the word panorama in collage so it's a panorama clash at the time I coined the term I googled it and there were no results and I'm like what that never happens so here is how you shoot a panel lage I just instead of taking a wide angle lens in capturing the entirety of a scene if I want a different look all instead grab a telephoto lens ah longer lens where it captures only a portion of the scene that's going to do a few things for me the more you go towards the telephoto lens you'll find the less depth of field you have you noticed how the background on here is going soft it's very di...

fficult to get a soft background with a wide angle lens but as he grabbed longer lenses it's very easy to get the background to go out of focus in general it's just the more you magnify the scene the less step the field you get so you could either move really close with the wider angle lens, but he'd probably spit at you because he's constantly spending um or you could grab a longer lens anyway. Then I capture one little part of the image, and avery first shot that I take is usually one that's straight. Then after that, I rotate my camera a little bit and I recompose and I take another shot, and I make sure that the second shot overlaps the contents that was in the first one by hopefully about half a least, then I'll rotate my camera different direction, move it again, and I'll capture another shot, and I'll continue doing that until I've covered the entire scene that I want to shoot, just making sure that each time I capture an image, that it overlaps the previous image a considerable amount because it needs to have enough information to be able to line these up, and it can only do that if they content overlaps. So I got the first image here selected I'm going to scroll down here, and if I hold the shift key and click on, the last image will get all those images highlighted, and I'm going to go to the tools menu, choose photo, shop and choose photo merge that's, usually what's used to stitch a panorama. When I choose photo merge I find most people just leave it set to auto and click okay we want a different look on our image so I'm not going to just use auto on click okay instead the first thing I'm going to do is at the bottom of my screen there's a check box called blend images together and that's what ends up causing you to end up with a seamless panorama where it looks like a single shot instead of looking like individual pictures? Well I'm going to turn that off and by doing so I'm going to be able to see the edges of where one photo is and where the next one begins so it's called blend images together and I turned it off the second thing I'm going to do is on the left side we have layout and this determines how photo shop is able to distort the image is to get them to match each other to get them to line up in what I want to do is I want this to look like just a pile of photographs is if I grab one of those cheap plastic cameras you know the kind when you advance it you hear that z and I just happened to print all these and I'm stacking them on top of each other to create my panna panorama to do that you want to use a setting down here called collage all collage is able to do is scale in rotate your picture it's not able to distort the image like bended so by using the setting called collage and by train off the checkbox called blend images together let's see what we get when I click okay now photo shop is taking all those shots that I took. If you look in my layers panel, you'll see that it's stacking them, then it's comparing the contents of each layer and trying to line up ah what's comin in them and you see how it just pieced together that whole thing for me. Well, I wanted to be more obvious that these air separate photographs so let's do something to try to get them to separate better, so I have the top layer active at the moment, and I'm going to add some layer styles you create layer styles by going to the bottom of your layers panel that's where you're going to find the letters f x and if I click on the letters fx, I'm going to start off with a drop shadow when I choose drop shadow this pops up, which gives me all my options for my drop shadow I'm gonna just move this off my screen for a moment so I can see the picture. And on lee while this is open where you have the settings for the drop shadow visible can you click on your picture in drag when you drag, you could move your drop shadow all it's doing is if you look in the settings that are on the right side of my screen it's changing two settings it's changing the distance setting based on how far away I drag and it's changing the angle setting based on what direction I drag. So all it's doing is figuring out what numbers to put in there based on my dragging once that position it approximately where I want. If I want to control how soft the edges that would be the setting called size and if I want to control the dark the shadow is that would be opacity in general go lighter than you think you need it's very easy to overdo a shadow it's rare toe under do it now there are other things that could do here that gives me a little bit of separation know that right now, it's only being applied to the top most layer. I'll show you how to get it on the other layers in a few minutes, but let's, look at some of the other things we might want to apply here in this list we also have the choice off I confined it, stroke so you've seen photos printed before where if you get him from inexpensive processing place, they might end up leaving a little white border around the edge like the old classic ones you got from your point shoot little film camera. Well, if I choose stroke up here, it's going to add a line around the edge and I could make that look like the white border, but I'm not going to click on the checkbox for the feature called stroke, because what that would do is it would add a line around the edge, but it wouldn't show me the settings for it in order to see the settings for a particular choice. And here you need to click on the word stroke, not the check box, but the word turn down the check box is going to add the feature but not control it, but clicking on the word is going to switch me over to show me the settings the subtle difference there but it's only when that's highlighted cause I can switch back down here to look at the drop shadow settings, switch back up here and look at the stroke settings, but it's only when I click on the word that I will do that, so in here we have a size and the only problem with this and you bring the size up do you see the corners? They're rounded if I want to prevent rounded corners, I'm just going to change one setting in here. It's called the position, and I'm going to set it to the inside when I said it to inside now, it's encroaching into the photograph and it maintains the crisp, uh, sharp corner, so I'm gonna bring this down until I get the size that I'd like then I don't know about you, but I've never gotten back a photo before the black border it's always the color of the photographic paper, which is usually white to begin with. So there's a little rectangle here that is showing you the color being used, and if you click on that, it should bring up color picker and I will end up choosing white or if I plan in printing this image, especially printing out a printing press, I'll go the tiniest bit darker than white, just so that when it gets printed, it's not going to be the color of paper in there instead, it's got a little dot in it because in your photograph, usually the brightest areas in a photo still have little bitty dots of ink in it. The only parts that don't have little dots of ink in it are what's called speculum highlights like a reflection on chrome. Or the noonday sun or something like that and so I might bring this down the tiniest bit so that it's not quite white instead, if I look over here at the scene, why cain numbers? That would be a little tiny bit of ink in there click okay and that's one look now let's see how we could get that to be on all the other images we have a couple different options. It was just a one time thing where I don't think I'm going to need this effect in the future, then here's how I go about it if I go to the layer menu there's a choice in here called layer style this menu gives me the same choices I had when I originally added the drop shadow by clicking on the letters f x at the bottom my layers panel here are the same effects that were listed there, and I could have gone here to apply the drop shatter to begin with. But in this menu we find some additional options, one of which is called copy layer style and that's going to copy any those effects that have been applied to this particular layer. So now it's remembering them I want to apply and all the other layers, so I'll go to the select menu at the top of my screen and that's where I'll find a choice called all layers and that just makes all the layers active at the same time if I go back to layer menu, then choose layer style, I can then pace that layer style and now it's going to apply it to all the other layers for me, the only other thing I might want to dio is change the stacking order of the layers because you see this top layer here it's pretty much shows ninety percent of the subject that was shooting I could target one of these other layers like maybe this one here in move it on top so it feels a little more fragmented as faras what the subject is made out of uh a couple little tricks when you're doing that if you choose the move tool there's a way to automatically target the top most layer that's underneath your mouse so that instead of trying to scroll through my layers panel to figure out what layer this is like this have photoshopped automatically make it active the way I could do that. Yes, I moved my mouse onto the area that I want and I have to be on the move tool when I'm in the move to ally can hold down the command key control on windows have it held down right now and just click if you watching my layers panel it just highlighted a layer and if I turn off the eyeball for that layer it's the top most layer that contains something underneath my mouse so I could target any one of these layers by just being in the move tool holding on the command key and clicking and then I could drag this piece or this piece or this piece you know and so command clicking could be rather nice if you want to change the stacking order of the layers there's a different keyboard char cat that can move a layer up her down within the stack of layers you have to be in the move tool again and the keyboard shark used for moving a layer up or down in layer stack is toehold on the command key, which is controlling windows I haven't held down right now and then using the square bracket keys and your keyboard it's usually right above the returner enter key and your keyboard they look like kind of half of a square and I'm going to hit the right bracket here and if you watch that layer I might have to hit it a few times be stopped moving up or down in my layers stack so I can get that up there then I might click on a different layer maybe this one down here command clicked to make it active and then I still have the command key held down brackets move that up in that way I can get it where I can get this stack to look a little bit mohr kind of random and interesting compared to what I originally started with, which was where it looked like the top most picture contained the majority of what I needed, so feel free to do that as much as you want, or you can do it manually your layers panel if you feel like it, then let's, look at how we could apply this effect of the white border in the drop shadow if he wanted to do it all the time. Let's say I was going to do this is an effect that offer to a client or something, and I don't want to sit there and spend the time to manually copy and paste it each time. Well, as long as I'm working on a layer that has an effect applied where if I look in the layers panel, it shows me we have some effects and in this case, it's a stroke and a drop shadow. Then when that layer is active, I could go to the window menu, and one of the choices under here is called stiles. If I choose styles it's going to bring up a little panel looks like this yet in the upper right of my screen. And it has, in my case, a bunch of presets in it, yours probably don't have a cz many loaded eyes I have, in fact, it looks like I have some copies where it's loaded more than once, but if you come in here and click on the little icon that looks like a sheet of paper where the corner turned up, you're going to create a brand new layer style, and I'm going to call this, and it just has to make sure this check boxes turn on called include layer effects, photoshopped uses the words layer of facts and layer styles interchangeably, it's like they can't make up their mind what they're really called just so you know, uh, but I'll click okay, and now there'll be a brand new preset sitting here in my style's panel, and if I'd like to apply it to any particular image, let's go up in a different picture. I'm going to open a more complex one, actually here's a simpler one, no let's see on that second here is a complex one how's this for a complex panel lage these are all the shots I found this in a graveyard, I think in it wasn't in ecuador, and it was a weird looking scene, so I just decided to shoot it in a weird way. I did a panel lodge that contained a brazilian pictures okay see all those just moving my camera randomly, making sure it overlaps last frame click, click, click then I took those images and I'm not going to have you wait for the progress bar to finish because it takes some time and instead of using the setting called collage setting called collage can only scale and rotate. I used the setting called otto, which khun bend the picture, but I still have the checkbox turned off that was called what was it called auto blend images remember that that's the key is having that turned off and this is the result came up with I think it's pretty crazy that could line up that many pictures that were that randomly kind of shot and put together, but it's not obvious that they're all that separate, so I'm going to select all my layers and I'm just going to go to the layer styles panel and click on that bottom most style the one we just created and boom! It just added all that those settings that gives me the white border and gives me the drop shadow every single one of those layers, so sometimes when I do this I don't end up using a white border in a drop shadow, sometimes we use other effects I'll just show you one other effect um I'm gonna go in here and turn off the stroke on one of these layers, he see the later I'm working on down near the bottom and instead I'm going to add something called an inner glow, and I'm going to bring up the size a little bit, you see what the inter glows doing, sometimes I'll end up doing that, but I don't want it to brighten the edge. What I wanted to do instead is dark in the edge, and it just makes it so the images separate a little better there's one problem with getting it to darken the edge, and that is when you have a setting called inner glow it defaults to setting up here called screen mode in screen mode, acts like light light can only brighten things, and so even if I change the color, here is the colors using yellow. I'm going to change it to like a dark gray change, his dark grey. If I look at the picture, I can't see a glow because it's set to a setting that could only brighten my picture that's what screen mode does? What I will often do is set this instead to mode cold color burn, color burn will darken and make the image more colorful, so if I choose color burn, he should be able to see the edge in there. And the only thing is often times it will be too strong, so I will bring down the setting call opacity because I just want a slight darkening of the edge where it's not overly noticeable it's just something that helps it separate so we went to something called inner glow and to get it to be able to darken I changed the menu at the very top to color burn then I could choose the color I want choosing a shade of gray makes it so it doesn't shift the color of the picture. Where is it? I choose yellow it's going to shift towards yellow, that kind of stuff and I just id the opacity control strong it wass now going to save that as a layer style? Go to my style's panel, click on the icon and I'll just say dark edge with drop shadow and now if you want to apply that to all of the other layers, I go to the select menu and I end up saying all heirs and I click on that pre set and now I can very quickly change between this effect and the other one by simply clicking on the layer style in my layers panel and for this image I don't know which one's better because this image I probably should've adjusted first to brighten up the shadows before I even started combining them, but I threw this together pretty quickly just to create a complex panel, lage and I didn't feel like waiting for the progress bar again. I just wanted to show you a simple example, but you see how layer styles spend maybe fifteen minutes creating a set of maybe about a dozen different effects, and then if you ever do a panel lage, then to finish it off, just run to your style's panel. Click on one of those styles that you've created, and sometimes it's hard to tell exactly what a particular style does from these little icons. If you go to their styles panel and click on the little side menu in the upper right corner, you can instead of viewing these a small thumbnails, you khun view them as a small or large a list, and if you do that, then you'll see the names of them, and if you see the names, then I can tell that these air called white border with drop shadow in dark edge with drop shadow, and so I can get a little sense for what they look like and more importantly, see their names in that might be more helpful. Did that from the side menu just chose large list when shooting a panel lage another thing to consider, if you I want the images to be rather distorted is zoom your lens a little bit in between shots, and then it's going to have to scale the photos, and they want all look the same size. Also, you can turn on your camera setting called auto bracketing in with auto bracketing you could have it maybe vary the exposure by about a third of a stop. In that way, they wouldn't all be the same brightness. They'd vary in brightness a bit, and it would make them feel even more like they're different photos. Because this shot here might be a little darker, this shot here might be a little bit brighter, that kind of stuff. I just don't want to vary it too much about a third of the stop might make it so you get a lot more variability in there and also sometimes a reposition each layer just the littlest bit, because people will often think that this is an effect that's been applied to a single photo instead of it being actually shot that way, because the pieces often line up so perfectly that they think it's, just a photo shop effect applied to a single image, but if I click on individual layers and just move them out of alignment the little lisbet and do that to a few of the images, then their brain doesn't say, oh, those that's one shot and said realizes they're all separate that makes sense so that's what I call a panel lodge which is the combination the word panorama in collage have you registered that word yet? Ben, I do have a registered trademark a lot yeah, so and it could be simple, you know, just here's a simple set of shots just move your camera slightly different angle between the individual shots and just remember he's a setting called collage if you don't want it to distort the pictures just scaling rotate uh otherwise you can use otto or force it into one of the other settings and then it can bend the picture and do other things all right now let's see how we can take a serious of images and create a similar look but with different photos and just do something a little interesting here I have a serious of images that I captured in africa and they've been styled already they have a tinted black and white look and a border on them. But here are the images that I'd like to combine and if you've only seen animals like these in zoos goto africa it's crazy instead of seeing him just go back and forth back and forth and it's like a cage or in environment I saw I don't know how many hundreds of elephants and I was within uh, I don't know within a car length of them, you know, that kind of thing. In fact, when we were eating, I could just see one right behind me kind of thing, and we even I've heard of people have them come and have their what he called their trunk in, like their outdoor bathtubs like to drink water and stuff because we it's ah, really interesting thing to see, and it really changes your perspective on things, but you know, what I've done here is I've selected these images, I'm going to go to the tools menu and bridge, I'm gonna choose photo shop and there's a choice in here that's called load files into photoshopped layers that's just going to stack these images so that we end up with one layer for each of these images I should mention any time you ever see me go to this menu. If you happen to use light room instead of photo shop in bridge where I shouldn't say instead of photo shop, but just instead of bridge, the choices that are in this particular menu are usually found in the photo menu in light room. Just go up to the photo menu, there'll be a choice called ed it in, and then they'll be choices for photo shop, and you will find one for loading them in layers. You'll find one for the equivalent to photo merge it just better named it'll say something like stitch into panorama or something like that, but it takes you to the exact same command, so I'm gonna load files into photoshopped players so I should end up with one layer for each image then I'm gonna add a little bit of extra space to this image there's many different ways of doing that I'm going in my case use the crop tool and with the crop tool you can just pull it out beyond the edge of your picture ad space. I'll type command zero to zoom out I'll just grab the crop to and pull it beyond the edge of your picture uh and I'm going to take all these images I just hold the shift key and click on the bottom layer that will get me in the mall and with the move to all just move it over here near the middle or upper left a little bit and let's say I wanted to do a layout on my website and I just want to display these out get a similar look to the panel lodge but with different pictures there's a feature I just want to make sure you're aware ofthe with a top player active, I'm going to go to the edit menu in choose free transform when I choose free transform usually khun grab the corner pole in scale your image I'm going to make this a little smaller and if he wanted to rotate it, you'd click outside of the transformation rectangle and just click and drag like this, right? Well when you do that it pivots it around this little icon that's in the centre can you see a little cross there in the middle and you could actually move that cross here somewhere else and if you do then that's where it's going to pivot it around so it's not doesn't have to pivot around the middle so what I'm going to do here is get this to be an angle get her to be smaller and not going to press return a renter now here's what I think it's cool, I'll click on a different picture the one below it I'll go to the edit menu in before we used a choice called free transformed that's what I used to scale and rotate but if you go to the separate menu that's called transform there's a choice called again, which means just do it again. So if I do that again to the image that's underneath, it would scale it and rotated the exact same way we wouldn't be able to really tell it's happened because it would be directly underneath the previous one but just remember that there's a keyboard charcot shift command tea and windows that would be shift control t well, I'm just gonna type that keyboard shortcut shift command tea the first time it took the picture and it's lined up with the one that's under let's on top, I'm going to type it a second time, you know, just do it again then I'll click on the next image and I'll type the keyboard shark at one two, three times and click on the next image. I'll type it one, two, three, four times and you see how it's starting to get this kind of ej. The only problem with it is the bottom most images really covering up is being covered up by everything else, so what I could do is in my layers panel just select all my layers, click on the bottom layer, hold shift and get the top one and if I go to the layer menu, there should be a choice in here called a range in one of the choices to reverse the order of the layers so the bottom most layer it becomes the top, most layer and top most later becomes bottom most and all that. So if I choose reverse now, I got us in a way where it might be a little bit more appropriate, although I think that top most layer should put down at the bottom I'll drag it down manually, their ego, but you see how aiken kind of create that, but it's gonna look a little bit somewhere to the panel. Lage if I come over here to my stiles, I could just as easily apply our little dark and edgy and drop shadow or if I had other styles. If I select all those images that is select all lairs, I could apply that if we didn't already have a border effect on it, I could have added one with my layer style. But the main thing is I find most people. I don't know that when you rotate things, you can move the rotation point and that there's, that choice called again, which allows you to apply it multiple times. And I find that to be helpful for many different things, one of which is what I want to display out a siri's of images like this. I wouldn't have to scale them with each one. I could just make it like like a stack of images being spread out.

Class Description

Part of the Complete Photoshop Mastery Bundle.

Explore the creative side of Adobe® Photoshop®. Take a walk down the filter menu and learn what's lurking in the not-so-obvious filters like Displacement Maps and Lighting Effects. See how the simple text and shape tools can be taken to the next level by incorporating layer styles, clipping masks and more.

  • Learn which filters have a special relationship with the Adobe® Photoshop® Blending Modes, which allows for unexpectedly creative results
  • See how puppet warping and layer masks will allow you to make a single layer look as if it's intertwined around another layer
  • Start to use Adobe® Photoshop® 3D features to add dimension to otherwise flat imagery
  • Create animated slide shows that better keep your viewer's attention
  • Add texture to your images to give them more personality
  • Software Used: Adobe Photoshop CC 14.0



    This is the second class on PS filters that I've taken with Ben Willmore. He is handsdown a fabulous teacher and one I highly recommend. I purchased both classes and I feel that for the price, they are worth their weight in gold. I applied his PS filter techniques to some of my surface pattern designs that were created using my original artwork and I've received great comments. So I owe a great deal of gratitude to CL and to Ben Wilmore for giving me the opportunity to grow my PS knowledge and to apply it with confidence to my artwork. Thank you!

    a Creativelive Student

    well I would recommend it sort of. I think much of the chapters show you how to use things without giving good examples or reasons such as with the brushes part. The photo on the cover is never worked on or really any of the topics didn't talk about how to achieve that look. I did learn some things as I have a lot to learn. I have been using the textures with great success. He does a nice job of explaining...I just don;t think we saw enough start to finish work.

    a Creativelive Student

    Fantastic tutor and course content! Ben Willmore truly is a master of Photoshop and has the ability to teach all aspects of Photoshop in such and easy-to-understand manner. Thanks so much for making Photoshop so much more understandable. Highly recommended.