Camera Settings: Zoom & Display Auto Review
Zoom is gonna allow you to zoom in digitally, which should have you screaming and running no, no, no not digital zoom. This is only on jpegs. It's basically just a crop. Sony seems to have found many different ways to digitally zoom in on their subjects, and so in a variety of Sony cameras you're gonna see this zoom setting for optical, smart zoom, clear zoom, digital zoom. And it just how much the camera is digitally magnifying the image. All of these should be just turned off. Don't use these. It's gonna lower your image quality when it comes to still images. There's a few unique lenses out by Sony. Some of them you can change the zoom ring rotation. Which direction you turn that ring. Some people prefer it to be one way or the other. So if you have one of those you can change it here. Alright looking at some of the display options on the camera. So when you press the display button you can jump in here, this is actually a little bit of a sub-menu we're gonna jump into. You can unche...
ck all the options that you don't want to use. So this is more customizing of what you see. This is what you're gonna see in the monitor of the camera. Then we're gonna do the same in the finder of the camera. Which ones do you want to see. Like if you don't like that graphic display. You can uncheck that box. Finder/monitor. Normally the camera uses the eye sensor to determine which one of the screens turn on. If you don't like the way it's working, or you just have something else you're trying to do and you want to force it to go from one to the other. You can come in here and change it to the viewfinder or the monitor, or you can assign this to one of the buttons on the camera. Alright, zebra settings is gonna send us into a little sub-menu in here. Zebra settings are gonna show you areas that are overly bright in the photograph. This is great for exposure control. So you can turn this on and off. Then you can have this set to different levels in here. So let me show you what this looks like in here. I'm gonna set this on manual exposure. Obviously we've got things a little hot in there right now. So let's go up to the tab we're on. I think we're on page six of nine. Woops, passed it. Right here, six of nine. Wait. Zebra settings right here. Let's turn this on. Let's turn this on at a level of 80. We're gonna adjust our exposure. You can see areas that are blown out are kind of... Let's zoom in over here. Are showing us these zebra levels. What we wanna do for the ideal exposure is reduce this down so that there is either no or very small areas in brightness. That's telling us just about the right exposure. We still have a little bit down there on the bottom. We're getting the reflection off the front of that camera. So if I go back into the menu under zebra settings. That was showing us at a level of 80. Let's take it up to a level of and see how that changes things. So as we... It's not getting, it's not showing the zebra's quite as quickly here. So, it depends on how quickly those zebra's come up when brights are getting close to that 100 percent level of brightness. That can be really handy for making sure that you're not losing any areas of important exposure. Grid lines, and these can be turned on and off here. We have a few different options. The exposure set guideline is an enlarged shutter speed or aperture that tells you where you're at. It's all well and good, but you know what that exact information is about three millimeters below it in the viewfinder. And it's taking up space over your image. So it doesn't seem to make a lot of sense to me. I would turn that one off. Live view display. When you look in the viewfinder, or you look on the back of the camera. One of the advantages of the camera, for the most part depending on how you have this set, is that it shows you exactly what you're gonna get in the final image. If you want. So let me show you how this is gonna work. If you have this setting effect on, the LCD mirrors the real exposure. In the example on the left you can see that I'm changing shutter speeds and apertures. You can see the indicator that I'm overexposed, or that I'm underexposed, and it clearly shows you in the frame. This works good for most photography, but it works absolutely terribly for anybody working in the studio or working with flash photography. Over on the right hand side you might want to turn it off if your working in the studio. That way you have a consistent image that comes through the camera, but you'll use the metered manual indicator down at the bottom as to whether you are overexposed or underexposed. So it depends of what type of photography you're engaging this in is to what is the best setting here. I generally like to leave it on, unless I'm doing flash photography. Alright, the continuous shooting length. This is a little display. It shows you the buffer in the camera as you are shooting high speed sports action type stuff. It'll show you how much is left in the buffer to shoot. How many images you can shoot before the camera is gonna lock up with all the memory full on it. For anyone who does a lot of shooting with sports and they want to make sure that they don't use up all of their shots on something that's not too important. It can be a handy feature to have, but once again like a lot of graphics sometimes you don't want it there, because you just want a nice clean view of your subject. Auto review let's you review images automatically on the camera after you've shot them. I have found that with a mirror less camera. I've tended to want to turn this off, because when I've framed up the image I pretty much saw what the image is gonna look like in final. So it speeds up the shooting process, because you don't have to review images like with an SLR. Because you're not sure exactly what the digital version of what your eyes saw. So I think a lot of people can turn this off, or at the most just leave it on two seconds so it doesn't take up too much time and too much battery.
AFTER THIS CLASS YOU’LL BE ABLE TO:
- Use the advanced focusing system with 425 Contrast points and 693 phase detection points
- Understand and leverage bracketing options for Exposure, White Balance and Dynamic Range Optimizer
- Use the multitude of customizing options
- Use video features like 4K video, slow motion, and time-lapse
- Better use any modern mirrorless features like the EVF
ABOUT JOHN’S CLASS:
Sony set the bar high by calling the Sony A7 III a basic mirrorless camera, packing the $2,000 body-only digital camera with a 24.2 megapixel Exmor CMOS sensor and image processor capable of 10 fps. The entry level full frame camera is being touted as one of the best options for full frame, even among Canon and Nikon competitors.
This class helps you get the most of your Sony camera with a complete step-by-step walkthrough of the camera’s features, whether you are just picking up the a7 III for the first time or you want to learn new tricks for your well-loved camera. Join expert photographer John Greengo as he gives you all the information you need to understand this Sony Alpha camera's buttons, menus, and functions -- without the 642-page instruction manual.
WHO THIS CLASS IS FOR:
Anyone who has purchased, or is thinking about purchasing the Sony A7 III
Sony A7 III
ABOUT YOUR INSTRUCTOR:
John Greengo is a veteran instructor and an experienced photographer with over 50 Fast Start classes in the CreativeLive catalog. He has dove into the complex menu systems of multiple Sony cameras including the a6000, a6500, a9, and a7r III, as well as mirrorless and DSLRs from Panasonic, Nikon, and Canon. Besides being adept at dissecting new cameras, John works as a travel and outdoor photographer. With his experience in analyzing camera manuals, he will discuss the complete breakdown of your camera’s exposure, focus, metering, video and more. After this class, you’ll be able to use your new Sony A7 III with confidence.