Motion Picture Mode


Panasonic® GH-3 Fast Start


Lesson Info

Motion Picture Mode

Motion picture this is the record button, so obviously you're going to hit this to record, you're going to hit it again to stop, and we have finally gotten to the motion picture section of the class, so we're going to talking about a lot of video stuff in here. All right? So one of the core key things about this camera is that the aspect ratio of the back screen of the camera is matched with the four third sensor, and so when you're looking at still images, you're going to get one aspect ratio, and when you get video, you're going to get a slightly different aspect ratio if you are not in the video motion mode upon the top of the camera, and so if you're in manual or program and you hit the video, you're going to notice in image jump on the back of the camera, which is why I like shooting video with this camera in the motion picture motive the camera because it shows you what you're going to be shooting before you start recording, and so use that motion setting up on the control dial o...

f the camera. And remember, when you're in there, you can dive into the menu system to change which exposure mode you're using program, manual and so forth. Like many of the other modes on the camera, you can hit the display button t change the levels of display that you are seeing in the viewfinder. Some people want more information some people wanted clutter free for those of you who are hooking up external microphones, you can turn on and off a mike level display so that you can see what sort of sounds are being recorded so let's talk about some of the different recording modes that you can get into on this camera you will need to dive into the menu setting to make these changes there are recording modes and there are recording qualities we will talk about all of these options and so when you get into it you're going to see a lot of these different settings depending on what you have set up so let's just kind of break it down and go through one thing at a time okay, we have dinner formats that weaken record in on this camera we have three different formats. I'm going to start kind of what I think of as at the bottom of the list and this is my own interpretation is mp for it's the most compressed file these air going to very small files. Some people call this internet friendly or computer friendly it's very easy to shoot these videos if you want to shoot it if you wanted to shoot a basically youtube video this is probably the simplest format to play with it doesn't require very fast cards just class four or higher the next group of recording modes falls into the a v c h d mode now these were designed for looking great on tvs on hd tvs really designed for the blue ray system these take a little bit more processing power and I find the files a little bit more cumbersome to get at transfer in use there's still quite usable they look very good it still doesn't require very fast memory cards just class for the top in collection in my opinion is the movie modes and here we're going to have better compression settings to get better image quality is going to be larger file sizes for sure if you do critical editing if you want to shoot a movie or a commercial or something for commercial type purposes you're probably going to be using the movie format on this this is going to require faster memory cards class ten or faster you confined that listing right on the cards next up this one's pretty easy one to figure out its resolution and full hd is nineteen hundred twenty pixels by one thousand eighty pixels there is also something called high definition which is different than full high definition or f h d as it's sometimes called it's just kind of a scaled down version which still looks quite good when it's scaled up two full high definition, and then there is a standard definition, which is pretty small, which is kind of your traditional youtube videos or video to share online. Most of the time, I imagine most users are going to want to record in the highest quality, fullest definition possible, but your needs may very another one, starts off pretty easy and then gets a little quirky and hear frames per second pretty easy to figure out twenty four, thirty and sixty frames per second, and I will mention that I am reviewing the camera or teaching the camera that is here in north america is using the ntsc system. If you have a pal version of this camera, these numbers will be slightly different. You'll see a twenty five option, as well as a fifty option in there, so it's a little different than this one, but the same principles apply, so the more frames per second, the mohr realistic, the more life like it's probably going to see what may seem strange to those of you who don't know about this, is that hollywood shoots a lot of their movies at twenty four frames per second, and it renders a certain look that a lot of people like quite a bit, and if you've ever noticed that there is a different look to tvs and movies, this is why one of several aspects in many cases but it's one of those aspects of why there's a different feel to it and so a lot of people like that feel, which is why this camera has the twenty four piece setting on your standard video on tv is thirty p now at sixty you're shooting twice a cz many frames as you need, which means you can slow it down to half speed so if you have any desire to slow it down but maintain image quality would want to shoot it at sixty now the eye and p stand for progressive and interlaced progressive is individual frames. Each frame is unique to itself and this is arguably the ideal way to shoot for most things for image quality because each frame has its own unique piece of information in order to save bandwidth and memory and in relation austin was developed many years ago and this is a very simplified illustration of it. What it does is it records records every other line of information on a particular frame and so anyone frame in itself on ly contains half the information that really needs to be there. But when viewed in very quick intervals thirty frames per second or sixty frames per second, it looks like progressive and so in the long term in the viewing aspect of it there's really very little bit of visible difference that you will notice when it comes to editing it's, easier to work with progressive than it is interlaced, most people wouldn't choose interlaced just on their own to start with. But if they are trying to match and work with other systems that are already interlaced it's a nice option tohave next one's, pretty simple it's. The bit rate. This is how much information is being recorded by the camera in any given second, and this is measured in megabits per second in general sense, and some people will have arguments with this, but around fifty megabytes per second is what is considered broadcast quality. It has enough information and detail that it's going to look good in a broadcast arena, and so a lot of the earlier cameras, a lot of the other cameras that shoot video will get up to ten or twenty megabytes per second. But this one gets all the way up to seventy two megabytes per second, and so it does kind of meet that minimum standard of broadcast quality now, there's a lot of other factors and influence quality. I totally understand that, but all things being equal, mohr is better. If you are looking for image quality in the video, next one is compression format. Now, video on this camera is not the same. Is raw and j peg shooting in raw? Images are compressed in this and there is the option of all I know nas all intra which is entered in truck who did frame and nypd which is an inter predicted by directional we're getting technical and geeky here today, folks all right, so all I the intra frame the way it works is it looks at each individual frame and it records it and it compresses it unto itself and this works really good for editing because you can do really clean and it's down to each frame there's no problem that's very high quality it does use up quite a bit more information now, the way I p b the inter frame system works is it looks for items that have not moved and it basically copies and paste that information. If aiken oversimplify, I might be doing it a little bit here but it's you looking at key frames where background material may not be moving in, only a small area is moving and it's able to reduce the file size when it does that. The problem is, is that it's a little bit harder to edit because each frame doesn't have all the information that it's supposed to have when you want to do in camera at a team which is not the best way to edit, for instance, it will only allow you to edit down to the second and not down to the frame because it really can't pull these things apart the way that you actually see things in the end result is not too big a deal it's a very small difference between the two, but if you are editing that's where the all I becomes much easier to work with, so where should you set your camera? Well, it depends on how you're going to use your video if you're just going to shoot some video of your kids playing out in the pool and it's just a simple family video, the aip is going to save quite a bit of space, and you're not going to have any issues with basic editing. If you don't need to go down into the exact frame in which to do the editing s o there is a lower quality, but it mainly is going to be involved when you get into the editing section of dealing with the footage from the camera. Now the actual format options that you get into will be in the menu settings under the record mode and the record quality, maybe in the ugliest slide in today's press foundation is going to be a list of numbers in here, so when you get into the movie mode there's going to be a lot of different options between different resolutions, different frame rates. On here, which where where should you set your camera? Will you probably know better than I do, but if you wanted a couple of recommendations, using the highest resolution thirty frames per second for standard video and seventy two megabytes per second is going to give you basically the highest bit rate possible. The all interest is going to give you the highest quality image now there are there is a setting above this at sixty p if you have plans on slowing down your footage so that you can show something in slow mo another option for you film buffs out there who like twenty four frames a second, you'd want to set it at the nineteen twenty by ten eighty twenty four piece eddie, you're going to get is still very high megabit rate, you're using the all interest, so it's going to be very easy to edit if you're just thinking I just want to shoot a basic video, I want to start on my computer and see it there nineteen twenty by ten eighty eight thirty p is probably going to be sufficient for that if you want to slow it down, there is the sixty p option, and then there are lower resolution options for smaller fire vial sizes. The final grouping is the a v c h d if you're going to be doing something you wantto record shoot a video that you're going to eventually burn onto at blue ray disk for instance sixty I will essentially look very good in a thirty frames per second arena of tv that you would work with on an hd tv and so those would be some recommended starting modes for where you might want to put your video quality of course there's a lot of different options which is what makes this camera so great is that you can match it up to meet other camera standards or whatever project that you're working with and so this is simply a starting point as to where you might begin a few other general things about motion pictures is that when you are recording it will show you the recording time and the remainder time down in the right hand corner the maximum file size when shooting with mp for which is kind of the ones that's good for the computer is four gigabytes or twenty nine minutes and fifty nine seconds at which point the camera will stop recording if you are shooting in the movie time you have an unlimited time so you can keep recording until your batteries are dead there is a file size limit of four gigabytes what happens at the end of four gigabytes is it creates a brand new file exactly one frame after where the last one last off left off so if you record for a long period of time, you may actually have several files that add up to your entire video and that's just something to be aware of if you were shooting long videos probably want to be in the movie mode for those of you audio geeks out there, you'll probably know more about this than I do, but the different video modes record in slightly different audio compression and if you want to shoot a still photograph while you are shooting a video, you can do it and in the camera is a priority setting whether you are priority is still images or video images. If your priority is still images, you can take a very high quality image twelve megapixel with the camera you, however, albeit it is at a sixteen by nine aspect ratio if your priority is shooting video but you still want to take still pictures, you can do it without interrupting the video, but it is just going to be a small j peg image and so you'll be able to make this determination when we get into the menu setting on the picture mode option on page two of five of the motion picture settings and then finally you can use the touch screen for focus racking if you want to adjust focus from one object to another one while you are recording you could do that using the touch screen and that sounds like a good time for just to do a live demo on this so let me throw this into the movie mode and let's make sure we get something to look at here on camera so let's get out of the sleep mode and we have our little camera in front we have something in the background so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna hit the record button and I'm going to start recording we have our counter on the left that were recording recording on the right and I'm gonna very carefully touch the screen where I wanted to focus and when I'm in manual focus that doesn't work very well does it so I flipped over to I'm gonna just it now over here back there and back here and so it's a pretty smooth focusing system and allows you to focus a probably a little bit better than you could manually I'm going to stop recording I'm going to hit playback and I got up and up again to play back and then we can hear how I made a mistake and left the camera and manual focus but probably should have a live feed up to a computer but you can see how we can adjust going to turn the volume down up here on top and you can see how the camera did we stop playback come on and so it's. A way to do focus racking on the camera, which is just simply changing focus while you are recording. Its not good to change focus while you were shooting under a lot of circumstances, because it gets a little wobbly. And it could do jarring for the viewer. But in some cases, it's. A great technique for drawing attention to the subject that you want. And it's something that a lot of professional photographers will have special devices so that they can move the lens and very specific ways back and for it.

Class Description

Ready to make the most of your Panasonic® GH-3? Join expert photographer John Greengo for a fast-track introduction to taking full advantage of your camera’s features.

John will guide you through everything you need to know about what makes the Panasonic® GH-3 the ultimate tool for hybrid shooting. John will cover how to navigate and set up your camera’s menus and guide you through its buttons, dials, and features. You’ll learn about working with the camera in both still and video mode. You’ll also learn about taking advantage of your camera’s customization settings and preferences, to make sure you get the image or video you want each time you shoot.

This course will have you using your Panasonic® GH-3 like a pro in no time -- no complicated manuals required.



For the time being, this may be the best way to learn more about other Panasonic models. There is very little good material on the FZ1000. This shows much of the dial and other functions. It is out of date as the current model is a DMC-GH4. I reviewed all the material available free; there are many features on my camera that are different. Johne Greengo is a phenomenal teacher! The best, clearest, most thorough and most motivating I have ever experienced. I am currently taking the Fundamentals of Photography, learned so much so far; bought the course. These "Fast Starts" are great and were mentioned in the class. Hope your camera is covered here.

Joanne Catapano

John is a great ! I learn so much from his classes, he has away of communicating that makes you feel like you're sitting in class live with him. The classes are so informative that each time I review them I keep learning more. I have the Lumix FZ1000, there is little out there. I found this class very helpful. John you are the best, keep the classes coming.