Menu Functions: Flash Settings
Our next big tab here is gonna deal with flash photography as we all know, the camera does not have a built in flash and so this is really only in effect when you are adding a flash onto a hot shoe of the camera. So flash function setting is gonna get you into this special little mode here, and there's gonna be a number of different controls in here. First up is the flash control mode. Which is the main control over how the flash is firing. TTL stands for through the lens. It's an automated system that the camera will figure out with he correct amount of flash is for any particular shot. Manual options, commander options for communicating with remote flashes. A repeating flash for special effects. You can turn it off, you can actually just turn the flash off. That might be just as easy. You can also work with flashes in different groups that are working in a commander mode. There will be a flash compensation. So if you want to power the flash up or power it down in the various differen...
t modes there's various settings that you can do, so that you can control the exact power of the flash. TTL mode also has a slow and an auto option. So slow will be working with slower shutter speeds. If you want to let it in background light or you want to have a little bit off motion blur along with the flash in there can be good. Auto is where it will fire whenever it needs to fire. The sync mode you can sync with the front or rear curtain if need be. There is also what is known as a FP or a high speed sync mode. This is a manual flash that allows you to fire at speeds faster than 1 to 50th of a second. The flash distance is highly limited so it's a very specialized mode for photography. Next up is a zoom option and that is where the flash will generally automatically cover exactly whatever your zoom lens is looking at. And so as you change from a wide angle to a telephoto lens the zoom head on the more advanced zoom models or on the more advanced flash models will adjust for you to cover just the area that you are shooting. The angle is kind of a unique feature. I have not seen this in other brands of cameras. And so the first option here is flash power priority. And so the angle of view that you see the flash isn't trying to cover everything. It's going a little bit narrower so that you have a little bit more power. You get more power in the middle of your flash. The standard is trying to cover the coverage of your particular lens. So that's the normal mode. And then even coverage because light fall off is pretty prevalent with flashes. If you really wanna make sure that you have very even coverage you have to shoot a very wide flash. You could do so in the even coverage priority option. The X500 flash has a LED light that can be used for multiple purposes. It could be used for auto focusing or as a catch light. For instance if you're bouncing the light up against the ceiling you can have a little bit of light going straight forward. You can use these flashes as master and slay flashes. In so what happens is the master flash is sending a signal out to these other flashes on how to fire how much and when to fire. You can control these with different groups for instance. If you were doing a multi flash shot. It's a very special exposure. The shutter stays open for a period of time and the flash fires a multiple of times. But of course you get to decide how many times does the flash fire. I you are working with multiple flashes you can put them on different channels. So that different photographers aren't communicating with the wrong set of flashes. So if you were working with a second photographer that is also working with the Fuji system, you can work on different channels and not interfere with each other. Hertz per cycle if you are doing the multiple flash, how quickly do you want those flashes to fire? And it depends on what type of subject that you're shooting and how fast it may be moving. If you are working with flashes that are in multiple groups you can put these in groups of A, B, C, and then you can individually control the power of these flashes so that you can control the ratio of the lighting you're shooting. It can be a very expensive proposition because these flashes are not very cheap. So it is a interesting option and provides you with very high quality images if you get it lit properly. We have a red eye removal option. And so generally I would leave this turned off. Red eye removal is very easily done in post production with much greater software than what they have in the camera to do it. It can be done in camera. You can give it a try, but I think post production is the way to go with this. TTL lock mode, do you want the flash exposure to lock with the last exposure or with the metered flash. I think going with whatever is current is usually best, but depends on the type of flash photography you are doing. We see another place the LED light setting is here. This can also be used as a feature on one of the shortcut buttons if you want to use it. If you want to control the master settings, once again this can be attributed to one of the shortcut buttons that you an work quickly. Change from one of your groups to the others, so that you can go in an adjust what they're doing. You can choose the different channels to set on as well. So there's some duplicate settings in here.