Flash Settings Menu
Okay, moving onto new subject here. This is Flash Settings, and so, if you're going to be using the built-in flash or the add-on flash, there's a lot of functions. And this has changed quite a bit since the X-T2 in some previous cameras. They've been expanding their flash game. And so, when you dive in here, you're going to have different options for your flash control mode. You'll have TTL, stands for "Through The Lens". It's an automated flash system. You can do manual, as well as a bunch of other ones that is beyond the time and scope of this particular class. You'll have control over the power of the flash, and so, if you want to power the flash down a little bit, power it up little bit, you can do that in many different ways, depending on the modes that you are in. The TTL mode, you can choose standard, a slow sync mode, or an auto-mode, once again, varies on what you're trying to do with your images. Synchronization mode, you can choose the first curtain or the second curtain syn...
chronization. You can also use this in an FP mode where it's firing with very high shutter speeds with specialized flash units. The zoom setting is getting your flash synchronized with your lens, and so, depending on what angle or view you have with that particular lens, it's going to automatically zoom the flash coverage, so that you're getting the correct coverage. And if you want to manually go in and change it, you can go in and manually change it. So, if you have a zoom lens, it'll change with you as you are zooming the lens back and forth. And so, it can range from anywhere from 16 to 69 millimeters in its focal length for coverage. Something I've never seen on any camera before is the angle coverage, and so, this is very much like we just talked about with a little tweak. You can choose Flash Power Priority where the most important thing is getting a powerful flash that maybe doesn't cover the entire width of the frame. You're getting a lot out of that flash. Standard is going to cover your frame from side to side pretty evenly. Some people don't like the fact that flash has a bit of fall off on the sides, and so, they want to have flash coverage where they're getting very, very even coverage from side to side. And so, here, they're kind of shooting with a wider angle flash to make sure that they get that even coverage. Normally, I'm going to leave this on standard, but it's the only camera that I've seen that has the ability to tweak it in one direction or the other. Their top of the line X-500 flash has a hot light that can fire and act as an LED light. It can buy used as a catch light, just a straight additional flash. It can also be used as an AF assist or you get to decide how it's used. It's only if you have that extra flash. If you have the camera set to shoot multiple flashes at a single burst, you can choose how many times. This is for a special effects night-time photography, for the most part. If you are doing multiple exposures, how powerful is each flash and how many cycles per second is that going to fire is what you're changing in the hertz here. You can also hook this up with multiple flashes. Now, this is going to look a little pricey here when we get all this equipment out here, but you can buy one flash for the camera, and then, you can have groups of flashes that you can control in different groups. So, maybe group A is firing at 100%, and group B is at 50%, and group C is at 75%. You can go into your camera and change these ratios between the power between the different flash units. And so, it's a class into itself, let me tell you. All right, next up, we have different channels, all right? So let's say you have different cameras or maybe you have different photographers that have different groups of flashes and they don't want to be sending the wrong signals to the wrong flashes. You could have different cameras on different channels, so that you're not interfering with each other. And then, finally, up top, you'll have lots of different controls for the powering of those individual flash units. And so, you can change the way they're firing TTL by percentage, manual, multi, lot of different flash options up here. And so, they've really, really upped their game when it comes to what you can do with the flash, but you do need their higher-end flashes to make this work right Red-eye removal can be done by having a pre-flash, which is always going to delay the taking of the shutter, so I don't like doing that. The removal is a digital removal and I don't like that, because sometimes the camera may not do as good a job as you or I could do on ourselves. So, I tend to want to leave this off, because red-eye is pretty easy to fix with so many different software programs out available now. The TTL lock mode will potentially lock the flash with the last flash that was fired. In most cases, people are going to want to leave this with the metering flash, whatever the current metering of the flash is. Another setting for the LED light setting, I think this is just here so that you can set it as a shortcut on one of the function buttons. And the master setting allows you to quickly change between the different groups that you may have for powering and changing the power. And then, another one for channel changing and these are here duplicate times, so that you can set them as a function button so that you can quickly access these without having to dive into a particular menu.