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Making Fashion: Draw, Draft and Sew

Lesson 12 of 14

Draping and Patterning Recap

Jay Calderin

Making Fashion: Draw, Draft and Sew

Jay Calderin

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Lesson Info

12. Draping and Patterning Recap

Lesson Info

Draping and Patterning Recap

I just wanna talk about tailor driven versus textile driven and pattern driven. With tailor driven, we did that in the first example. We did a garment that tailored to the body, and you notice, we cut away a lot of things, but with textile driven, the strategy is a little different. Tailor driven is kind of more of a European concept where, where people would cut into an actual textile, but we have this beautiful fabric right here that's, Margo, right? Yes. Yep, this is your fabric, and this is just so exquisite. I just wanted to show it to you, but this is something that I would be really hesitant to cut into for any reason whatsoever. If I could avoid it, I would try to save this as much as possible. So, I mean, it has a lot of great factors. It plays into textile driven, as well as pattern driven because it has a border, so your whole design process could be built about, around the actual pattern, and saying I want this to go like this. I want this to go like this, I want this o...

n the bottom. I want this to be a jacket, where it lines up like this. So, you can use the fabric as inspiration. A lot of designers are very textile oriented, and that's their starting point. Today, we've gone through a process of mood boards, and it's sketching, and pattern-making, but for some people, they start with the actual fabric. So, for your pattern-making, this could be a guide, and, and getting back to textile driven, there's a lot, there are a lot of cultures, I know of one incredible designer, Carla Fernandez, who works with indigenous communities to, to figure out how they work, and a lot of times you can get the quality of something fitted or draping around the body by tucking and pleating, and something that, in theory, you could then take apart, and the fabric is still intact. A lot of textiles, textiles were the real valuable thing in history when it comes to fashion, and passing them on was a tradition. So, you would have a skirt, a beautiful, big skirt that has been all pleated and tucked, and your daughter, or the next season, you know, the next, you know, 10 years later or something like that, you want a different fashion, you can take it apart and that fabric is still intact. And you see that in in kind of cultural dressing, like through saris, like kilts. Kilts are originally, were all just folded fabric that was belted, they weren't sewn down. So they were, and they were all draped around the body. So, you wanna remember those things. Sometimes you don't wanna touch, cut into the fabric 'cause it can, it can be really valuable and very beautiful to work with its natural properties. So, and this is, again, one school of thought. Hubert Givenchy, "The dress must follow the body of a woman, "and not the body following the shape of a dress." That is one school of thought, but then, you also wanna think about how you can have garments that have different relationships to the body, so there may be the shape that the body is sort of suspended in. So, you can have things that go away from the body or conform to the body. So, and we've done all this measuring of both on the, the dress form, and on paper, and I just wanted to kind of note that with technology, there are all these really cool different tools to get very exact measurements. This is a graphic for a body scanner where you go in and it scans your entire body. It measures every little part of you, and then, it can actually generate information for creating patterns. So, and those are things that normally someone would do with a tape measure, and measure all, you know, the horizontal lines, all the vertical lines, but it can be really, pretty amazing. What is that called? A body scanner. Body scanner. Like at the airport? Yes, except, except not so intense (laughs). Or really intense, depending on how you feel about your measurements. I guess you can't get that-- Can you start the, sorry, can you-- The technology has actually been for a while, but, but it's still not common. It's still not a common thing, but it is the way things are moving, you know, because I think, eventually, you'd have a scanner like that, you can, it would punch all the information into a computer that has these patterns in there, and a computer would calculate all of the, the, you know, the changes, and then, a 3D printer would print it out. You know, so in theory, I can see that happening in the future, you know, the way things are going. Alright so, as I mentioned, measurements are the foundation. So, so important to take measurements, and to take accurate measurements. The slopers, we talked about being these basic patterns, and we saw how we could take a basic pattern and then, manipulate it, and then, we've saved all that great, hard work that we've done to make sure we have great fit, and truing, precision corrections. Like really being focused on that. We did the manipulations just now. Digital, as well, a lot of, this is actually me at our school and we have a platter where we will take a pattern like this, and all these manipulations can be done in the computer, and the computer is also really good at correcting your corrections. Like, if you're off by an eighth of an inch, you can figure that out and make that correction to have a really accurate pattern, and one other nice thing about digital, just sort of like, images, is that digital and measurements translate across, you know, any culture, any country. So, if you have a good image, and you have good measurements, you know, and a good pattern, anyone around the world can figure out how to make that garment for you, if you're working in the industry.

Class Description

Bring your designs to life with Jay Calderin in Making Fashion: Draw, Draft, and Sew!

Jay Calderin has been called a “a budding designer's best friend,” and in this class he’ll show you exactly what it takes to create and construct custom clothes. 

You’ll learn about:
  • Drawing and planning for clothing production
  • The stages of pattern making
  • Constructing and finishing garments
Jay will help you get started with smart drafting tips and offer insights on working with muslin so your patterns lay and drape properly.

If you want to produce one-of-a-kind garments, join Jay Calderin for a complete primer on getting started in Making Fashion: Draw, Draft and Sew.

Ratings and Reviews

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Jacquelyn Bradley-Nelson

I love this class, I'm glad I found it. This what I want to learn or add to my knowledge. JayC you are awesome! I need more learning on rendering coloring for illustration for that is. I can't wait to see what's on the other class I will take. Thanks! Signed: rm515jb.

Andrea Leggett

I really enjoyed this and the draping really opened my eyes to what can be achieved. Jay made it look easy so I plan a shot at draping later and will post my effort on Instagram with thanks to him! Thank you Creative LIve for bringing this to me (in the UK) and special thanks to Jay. When I'm in Boston in August I"ll buy you a beer!


Loved the draping information. It was logical and clear enough to make me want to try it.