All right, another big one, the Communication Settings. So this is gonna deal with Wi-Fi communication on the camera as well as FTP transfers. We've got a little video to walk us through some of the basics of this, so let's go ahead and take a look at that video.
All right, let's talk about the Wi-Fi capabilities of the camera. This is what allows us to communicate between the camera and a phone and we can use our phone as a remote viewing and triggering device. In order to get this to work, we need to to a little button pressing and menu adjustments on both of these devices, so first off, on my phone, I'm gonna dive in, to my Set Up Menu, page four, where it's under Communication Settings, and I am gonna turn on my built-in wireless settings and my Wi-Fi is currently enabled, but I need to go down here and tell it how I want to connect up and what I want to connect up with because there's printers and computers and other things that you can hook up with. I want to hook up with the p...
hone, so I'm gonna click on okay there, and then I'm gonna hit connect down here. Now I need to go over, and I'm gonna turn on my Wi-Fi, and hopefully, ah-ha, there it is. EOS5D4, that is my camera's Wi-Fi signal and I will make sure I select that. Okay, so now we're connected up, but I need to then go in to the Wi-Fi function from Canon called the Canon Camera Connect. That app is opening, that's something that you can download free on all the app stores. It said the E was not attached, but now it does say down here that it is attached. And so now I can click on remote live view shooting. My camera flips in to its live view mode, and I can see exactly what's going on with my phone. Now, the issue is, is I need to get the camera where I want it to be, so I need to do a little bit of climbing so if you'll pardon me, I need to climb on this play set, which I haven't done in a very long time. So, just a moment. Okay, so, Jake, it's your turn. Why don't you ... climb up here and get up on the net.
And ... I'll figure out where I want you to be. Okay, so first thing is, I need to get myself out of the image, so I have a number of controls here. Basically I have a focus here, so I can make sure that I'm focused on him. And so lay down right there, let's just go ahead and take a test shot, see how this looks. Shooting, so that's one shot there. Let me have you do 180.
Yeah, yeah. I know you're gonna be kind of inclined backwards, but it looks good on the camera, and that's really the only thing that matters. So it's looking a little bit on the hot side, a little bit on the bright side, so I'm gonna see if I can jump into exposure compensation and I'm gonna adjust this down just a little bit to make it darker, there we go. So there's a little bit of adjustments that we can do. We don't have control of everything on the camera, but we do have some controls that we can get into. So if we want to, we can get in and I can change the aperture value. I can change the ISO, I can do exposure compensation. And ... All right. Let's have you cross your legs. There you go, just like you're nice and relaxed up in the middle of nowhere. Okay, this is not a fantastic shot, but it's fun to shoot. And so why don't you stand up now and get your face kind of close to the camera. If nothing else, it's just fun to watch him struggle around up there. (laughs) Okay, so yeah, that one rope you're holding onto, you need to be down a little bit lower. That looks pretty good. So look like you're climbing up. Actually, I liked it when your right hand was up on, yeah, reaching up. Right, okay, bring it down. I want to be able to see your hand in the frame, so bring your hand down a little bit. Okay, and I'm gonna shoot this one. A little bit higher with the hand. I have a little bit of a time lag, so bring it up higher. And, right there. Okay, good. And I think we got something interesting there. All right, so it's not the greatest shot in the world but it shows you what you can do because this would be virtually impossible for me to do on the top of this structure, so you can put the camera someplace unique, you can get adjustments and you get to see exactly what's going on in the frame. And so I think this is a creative tool that some people are just gonna have a fantastic fun time with. I know I am because I love doing this crazy, stupid type of stuff.
All right, so you can see that's a lot of fun and that's definitely something that has been coming around the photographic world for the last few years and it's nice to have it on a 5D camera. So let's dive into some of these menu settings and we'll talk about some of the setup and some of the things that you need to do to have this. All right, so we're gonna dive in to the built-in wireless settings. And the first thing is, is having the Wi-Fi which is very similar to the NFC which can be very easy to hook up with those devices that have that. Normally, I leave this turned off. I do not want this draining the power of my camera because it does drain the power more quickly. That's a Wi-Fi signal in your camera, transmitting, draining the battery. You only want to do that when you really need it. In the Wi-Fi function, you get to choose on how to set it up. Now, we're not gonna go in on how to send it straight to a computer or to a printer, right, but, it can do all of those things. Most of us are wanting to connect it up with our smartphone. The basic tools are triggering the camera, viewing through the camera, but we can also download from our camera to our phone, so we can email and upload photographs from there. And that doesn't matter if we were using the phone at the time when we shot the photo. We could be taking pictures, go sit down in the restaurant, hook up Wi-Fi, and start looking through our phone, at all of the images on our camera itself. And so this can be used in multitudes of ways. And so you'd want to go into the smartphone and there's gonna be a number of steps and I apologize in advance for this slide. This is the most cluttered slide, but I wanted to put all of the steps on one slide. There are things you need to do with your phone, and there are things you need to do with your camera and this is the order in which you need to do them. And for all of you who buy this class, remember you get this as a PDF and so you can just print this out. So the first thing you need to do is, you need to download Canon Camera Connect. That's the Canon app, all right? That's free from all the app stores. Next thing you need to do, and you saw me in the video doing this, is I was going into the camera, and I first went into the Wi-Fi functions, I enabled it. The first time around, there's a few extra steps as it's learning who its neighbor is, you might say. There's a nickname, you've gotta tell that you're connecting up to the phone, and then you hit OK several times in a row, and then it gives you an encryption or a password which is a bunch of numbers. You input those numbers on your phone, make sure your phone is Wi-Fi on, and that you go into the Wi-Fi signal and you select ... the EOS5D4 Wi-Fi signal. And that's just gonna be wherever your Wi-Fi is. On an iPhone, that's in your settings. You're gonna open the camera app, that's the Canon Camera Connect, and then it's gonna show you the camera, that's gonna, like, list a camera, and you just tap on it to select it. After that ... You need to go back to your camera to kind of give it another OK, just say 'yes, I want to connect up with this phone.' And then you go back into the phone, I know, lots of steps, back and forth, and then you can open up the Canon app or application and you can look at either images on the camera and so if you just want to look at things, you can go into the remote shooting operation, which is what you saw me doing in the video, and you can go in and change a very few camera settings on the camera itself. So there's not a lot that you can do on the camera settings, and my guess is that, down the road, as we go into the future, Canon Camera Connect is gonna have lots of changes. It's already had lots of changes since we first saw it on the Canon 6D, which was the first camera to have it. And so they might have a new app, they might have new versions of it, so this is likely to change in the camera going forward. But a very useful device, but I have found that it is a heavy toll on batteries in the camera and on your phone. And so this is something you don't just inadvertently leave on thinking there's no consequences to it. So once you have this turned on, you can go back into Wi-Fi functions and you can disconnect it, if you want to, and so if it was, you could go in and disconnect it. You could confirm the settings and there are five different pages which show you information that I have no personal need for but if you wanted to see what it was connected up to and channels and so forth like that, that information is there if you need to figure out what that is, and then if there is some sort of problem, there'll be a page for errors that may have happened. I haven't seen that come up on my camera yet. If you want to send images to the smartphone, there's a couple different ways. One way is to be on the phone and just be scrolling through your images and picking an image to download. You can come to the camera and you can choose images and kind of forcing it from the camera so you can either pull it from the phone, or you can push it from the camera, they both have the same impact. It just depends, would you rather work with your phone or camera, and different people will have different answers to that question. You can choose a nickname. It's the EOS5D4 which works perfectly fine for me but if you want to have a special nickname, you can input it right here. And if you want to clear all the settings, you know, you're getting a new phone or you just want to clear all the settings out, you can clear it all out right here. And so that's ... all of the Wi-Fi. Now, FTP transfer settings is gonna be dealing with tethering your computer, so if you want to hook your camera up to a computer so that when you shoot, it's downloading images to your computer, that's what this whole section is about and I'll just warn you right now, we're gonna go kind of briefly through this. This is not how a lot of people are shooting, but tethered shooting is quite popular for certain people in the studio so they can see immediately, on their computer, what their images are look like, and this controls the transfer of all of those images. Normally you would leave this disabled unless you are specifically using it. You can go in and choose the type and size of photos that you are sending, and so in some cases, you want to be sending out the full resolution image. In some cases, you just want a smaller or a larger JPEG image, depending on how you are using that viewing device. And so, as I say, we're not gonna spend a lot of time on here, but you can choose which images and how big of images are being sent over. You can choose how to send them over. You can choose only to send them when you press the SET button on the back of the camera which could be nice for you. That way not everything is filling up that pipeline. And then there is basically a communication between the computers and the camera and you can go ahead and load this information from one to the other. And so once again, not something a lot of people are using, but can be very, very helpful in certain types of photography. And so that is the FTP transfers and all of that is buried under Communication Settings on page four in the Set Up Menu. Page five the Multi function lock on the back of the camera, the Lock button, as I mentioned before, has the opportunity of locking the dials, the joystick, the touch screen, and you can choose what that dial locks. And so it depends on how you use your camera and how often you use that lock feature and how often you bump dials and features of your camera. The custom shooting modes one through three, we talked about this at the top of the class. What you do is you set your camera up exactly the way you want it to work in one of these three modes. You then come into custom shooting modes, little sub-menu, and you will register the settings as either C1, C2 or C3. And then when you dial that in, your camera goes back to those settings no matter where it was, in, with any other settings on the camera. If you want to clear these out, you can clear the settings from any particular one. And here is the tricky one, and this is where I have a hard time, is, let's say I have one setup for birds in flight, all right? You know, certain focusing pattern, certain ISO, and everything, and I'm shooting with it, but the shooting situation isn't quite right, I'm in a little bit lower light, I need to bump the ISO up. Do I want the camera to automatically update that as the new standard for that custom shooting mode? Well, no, in this mode, I just want to bump it up this one time, I would leave this disabled. If you leave it enabled, it's gonna constantly be adjusting and updating that custom mode as you make changes in your, as you're in that mode. And so, that's a very important setting if you plan on using those custom modes. And if you have not been paying attention for the last two and a half hours, you can clear all the camera settings on your camera and start back, factory fresh, from this, from this. And that, I think, oh, we've got a couple more. That's right. Copyright information, this one is pretty cool. This is a place for you to put your name in your camera. Now, granted, it's not the definitive way to put your name on your camera, but I'm guessing that if your camera was stolen, now, first off, the main reason it's here is that this gets added to the metadata of your photographs. Who is the author and creator of this photograph? So if you output a JPEG image through your phone or something else, and somebody uploads it on the Internet, they could look into the metadata and see who the author is, and who the original photographer is on that, or at least which camera it came from. But I think the secondary little use of this is that if your camera is stolen, you have your name in the camera. You can prove it's your camera at least to some degree. I don't know if it's gonna work legally or not, but you can say, hey, dive in there, my name is on that camera. And it's a little bit of proof that you've had that camera. And so you can enter copyright information. You can enter your name, you can add in your email address. If somebody wants to be honest, let them get in touch with you. And so here is where you can enter that copyright information in. With the touch screen, this information is a lot easier to enter than on previous cameras. And of course you can delete everything, when you want to get rid of all of it with one swift stroke. There is a logo that shows you things that it's met, which is just wonderful. And then the firmware version. Firmware is, of course, the software that runs the camera, and Canon periodically will come out with new software. In fact, on this one, they updated it from one point zero zero to one point zero two. They've made some small bug fixes or enhancements in some ways. In some cases they make major changes which they have done on previous 5D cameras and 7D cameras where they give you whole sets of new features. But you have to go back to Canon's website to figure out how to do this, and so that's well worth your time and effort. All right, final big section is Custom Functions and a lot of these are the types of things you'll set once and you will never come back to again. All right, Exposure level increments can be in one-third or one-half stops. Most cameras these days are in one-third. Works pretty good for most people. That's where I'm gonna recommend it. ISO speed setting increments can be changed from one-third to full stops. Some people don't use the third stops and they want to more quickly navigate from low to high ISO, so I think that works pretty good for most people, but a lot of people just leave it at the third stops. When you are shooting bracketing, do you want the camera to stop and quit shooting bracketing after you've shot a series of photos? For the occasional bracketing photographer, leave this turned on. If you are shooting a whole series of photos, at one and again and again and a new bracket series and a new bracket series, you would turn this off so that your camera keeps you in the bracketing mode.