Menu Functions: Set Up Video and Custom Functions
All right, we're gonna catch up on a few video specialist things in the set up men you that don't show up in the regular photo menu. They're only going to show up in the video menu. All right, first option is on page four. How the shutter release button works when you are in a video mode. So normally, when you're shooting video, there's a video record button, and the shutter button is kind of like this extra appendage that you can have it do something else. And so the options on here is with 1/2 press. Do you want the camera? Two meter? Do you want to focus as well? Do you want it to do one shot focusing or continuous focusing, or do you want it just to meet her? And this completely depends on how you like to work. The camera next option is with a full press of this. Do you want it to start in stock recording? Some people just really like with a position of that button, and it's a very easy placement for starting and stopping recording, and so you can choose to have that if you like. O...
kay, it's time for another new tab. And this time we're talking about custom functions and these air usually little tiny tweaks to the way the camera works just to make it fit your requirements and the way you like it to work. The first item in here on Page one is exposure level increments. Normally, the camera will change exposure in third stop increments, which is a pretty nice small number that allows you just a little bit of difference between one exposure in the next. If you would prefer to do half stops and there are other systems, some light meters or different types of accessories, that may work in half stops that you may prefer that. But most people believe that in third stops, same thing with eso speed setting increments. Some people will change this to full stop increments because it makes it a little bit faster to change. And when they're changing ISOS, usually they're not just changing 1/3 of a stop, and so there's good reasons for both of those options here. All right, some things to do with bracketing so normally when you shoot bracketing, this auto cancel is on, which means you should a serious of bracketing shots. The camera will leave the bracketing mode, and so if you're gonna shoot a whole bunch of bracketed images, you'd want to turn this off so that you don't have to go back. Keep repeatedly turning the mode on. The sequence of the images can be adjusted, and the normal process is to shoot the normal photo first and then a dark Siri's and then the light. Siri's. But a lot of photographers prefer it going from darker toe lighter because it's a lot easier to understand when you have a whole grid of images on your computer, seeing where the Siri's starts and where the Siri's ends. You can also choose the number of bracketed shots, and this is a pretty important one. How many images do you want to shoot for a normal bracket? Siri's. The traditional amount was 31 lighter, one darker, and you're probably good. But with digital, when you can kind of shoot for free now, people are shooting a bit more. And so, for instance, I like shooting five shots. In that way, I'm getting one that's notably darker and notably lighter. Along with those other three. The safety shift is a way for the camera to kind of go in and save the exposure if you were to make a mistake. And so normally this is turned off for anyone who likes to manually control the camera cause they may want to get very specific results. And so one of the options with the shutter speed aperture option, if you could imagine being in the time value mode and as you set higher and higher shutter speeds at a certain point, you may go too fast. And if you have safety shift turned on, it just won't allow you to go to those faster shutter speeds to make sure that you get a proper exposure. Another option is using the I S o speed to kind of kick in and save the day for you. So once again, if you're in shutter priority and you start selecting faster shutter speeds and you want to goto a faster shutter speed, but you don't have an aperture that's appropriate for it rather than them not allowing you to use it, it bumps the I s. So what? For you. But it would bump Theis so up, kind of behind your back. It's not gonna give you a big warning. It's just gonna immediately bump up the I s l so that you have a proper exposure. And so you could leave this turned on if you really want to make sure you get the right exposure and that's more important than the settings that you get. If the settings are more important, you probably want to leave. This turned off, that is your safety shift. Next up is the same exposure for new aperture. And so there's a number of times with lynching lens changes extenders, zoom lenses that have variable apertures that are going to change the aperture on here, and you can have it change it automatically for you. Second page on custom functions is setting the shutter speed range. Generally, you're not gonna want to touch this, but if you want to limit the amount of range that you have at a particular time, you could do so here. If you want a limit, the aperture range, you can do so here. Just like the shutter speed range before all right. So when you press halfway down on the shutter release and you are locking the meter If you have chosen to lock the meter, you can choose which metering modes actually locks the meter. So you could say that I want it toe lock with the evaluative metering, but not the spot. Metarie. And so those. This is for those of you who are very picky about the way that you're doing. Meet your meat oring and locking it in which mood you are using. Most people aren't going to use this, but it is a handy tool toe have for those few that do like it onto our third page of custom functions, the dial direction when you're turning time value an aperture value on the camera is something that I think is a bit weird, cause it's exactly the reverse of what I would expect. And so the problem is, is that when you turn the dial on either of these, the it goes in the opposite direction as the needle for your exposure, compensation and exposure. And so if you reverse the direction, the dial and the needle will turn in the same direction and things will make more sense, and so I encourage you to switch this to the reverse direction. It makes things mawr intuitive. When you're using it in the field, the control ring on the lens is can be reversed if you want. We have a They have a certain direction they turn when they're changing the aperture or eso or whatever you have them set to. If you don't like it, you can reverse it as well. Focus. Ring rotation. So now we have an electronic focusing ring, and it's not directly connected up to the focusing to the lens elements in there, and we can have it focused either direction. Now, the way that Cannon focuses their lenses quote unquote normal in the industry, Nikon uses a reverse focusing system that's just different than Cannon and everybody else. And if, say, you were coming from Nikon and it really threw you off, you could switch this direction so that it matched Nikon cameras. Next, you can change the sensitivity of the focusing ring, and this can be really good for people who shoot video. Now, if you shoot stills, it's a variable focusing rate, and so if you turn that focusing very quickly, it's gonna move really quickly, and as you slow down, it's going to go very slowly in and out for exact focusing on a subject that you're focusing on very carefully. And so do you want it to be a various with rotational speed, which is good for a still photographer linked to rotation degree, which would be good for shooting video Because a lot of people who shoot video are doing a shot a number of times, and they get used to turning the focus ring a particular amount, and they want to do repeated shots. They could move the focus, ring a linear amount. And so, for those of you shooting video, probably gonna want to change this to the linked to rotation degree page four Custom functions are custom buttons, All right, we've been talking a lot about this in this class. The camera has a lot of buttons. Let's take a look at some of those buttons that we can re program on our camera, and I encourage you to figure out which features are most important to you, Which buttons are the easiest and most important ones for you pressing and then matching all of those things up so that you can have the camera customized to get to the features that you use on a regular basis. And so there's a number of these features, and I doubt that the camera is gonna become come perfectly set up the way you like it. So I think everybody's gonna customize their camera to some degree. So I encourage you to do so. We have customized buttons. We also have customized dials and so you can get in and you can control what the's dials do. We've talked early on in this class about what the shutter speed dial is and what the aperture dial is. But you know what? If you don't like it, just reverse it on. So get this customized the way you like it to work. So one of the options is that the control ring and some of the other controls can only be activated when the shutter release button is pressed halfway down. And so one of the customization that I was playing around with was using the control ring on the lands to control the I S O. But I found that I sometimes grab that rather than the focus of the zoom ring. And maybe I'll get Houston in the long term but I thought I probably don't want to change I s o just by turning the dial. So what I did is have it available to change on Lee when I impressing halfway down on the shutter release, and that just is kind of a safety locks of that. It only changes when I really wanted to, and I won't bump it to easily. So that's a good option you might want to take a look at. We've already gone through the customized multi function bar we've seen that it can do a lot of different things. I think if I had to pick one thing that I'm gonna choose with a multi function bar, it's probably gonna be the focus point size so that I can go from single point to a group point to a wide point to face detection by just simply sliding back and forth on there. I think it's Ah, it's a nice little system, requires a little bit of getting used to it and kind of perfecting the tool on it. But once you got it down, it's a nice tool because it doesn't make any clicking noises, and it's very smooth and simple the work with. If you want to clear all these customized settings from all the dials and buttons and so forth, you can do so here so that you can start again fresh with a new batch on the page five, we have add cropping information, and so this is only gonna work with Cannons software. And what it does is it's gonna add lines to your images to show where the crop is, but it's going to give you the full image. All right, this is gonna look a little bit complicated, but it's kind of based off of a simple theory. And that is you're looking at an image and you decide it's garbage. I want to get rid of this image. How many button presses do you want a press to get rid of it. Now, if it's just one press, that's pretty easy, and you might make that mistake to press is, there's a little bit of safety protocol there. Three presses and you're getting really paranoid, and the standard process on this is three presses. When you say that you want to delete something, you have to turn a dial to confirm it, and then you have to press it. I see. Press the delete button, then you have to turn the dial to confirm it, and then you have to press the set button to confirm that you want it. If you would like to do so in less button presses, one less to be exact. You can do it by looking at it image and hitting the garbage can button and then hitting the set button to confirm that you want it with one of these other options. Now you do have actually three versions of it. One. Re select the raw and the J peg. Or if you just want to select, deleting the J peg or just the raw, you can set that up yourself. And so I encourage the raw J Peg option will allow you to delete raw and J pegs in just two steps rather than three steps. If you're gonna be hooking your camera up to adapters, perhaps ones that do not have the Elektronik connection with the camera. The camera normally doesn't like to fire the shutter unless there's a lens, a legitimate lens attached to the camera and so you can override that option here and so if you are gonna be hooking it up to a telescope or some other device like that, you would put it on enable. But for safety reasons, best to leave it on disable unless you have that type of device. There are some lenses from canon that need to retract, and this will allow the camera to retract the lands before turning it off. There is additional information the I P. T. C. Information that can be transmitted from the camera to the computer if you are using the cannon software. All right. Final page under custom functions is clearing all the custom functions that we've been going through. If you want to go back to the factory reset position, then you would go to this and you can go back to this whole section on the class and get things reprogrammed in exactly as you want them.