All right, so folks were done you go ma'am thank you dream reality I do have just a little bit more because we have gone through all the individual little pieces and some people like well, how do what I set this up for this and what's important here and so this final section is just kind of the operation of the camera and I want to go through how I would set the camera up and what things are important to think about. So first off your basic chest checklist of things that are important charging your battery format in your memory card these are things that you should do on a regular basis making sure that the image quality is set to the setting that you want raw or j peg whatever your needs are or in my case I need to shoot both because I want to see those magnified images and those can only be seen when you should j pegs you want to confirm that the menu is set up the way you really want it to be that you haven't made a dumb change from the last time that you were using the camera and t...
hen finally if you're going to be going someplace really important and I'm going to be going to morocco here in a few weeks and before I go one of the first things I do or when I'm getting my camera equipment ready is I shoot a picture of a blank white wall and I look for dust specks on the sensor because if there's dust on the sensor I want to be able to fix it at home in my office rather than trying to fix it in the desert of morocco where there's sand blowing around on dso take care of this well before you have an important shoot or an important trip that you're taking now what sort of settings do we make on the camera because we don't go into the menu on a regular basis I don't even go into the quick menu all that often most of the controls for this camera are going to be handled on the outside of the camera and with six different function buttons you're going to be able to program those to the settings that you use on a regular basis so if I was going to be setting this camera for super simple photograph pic pictures here is how I would set the camera I would put the camera in the program mode which means I flipped the aperture switch on the lens and I move the shutter speed dial to the a setting that way the cameras controlling both shutter speeds and apertures I'm not a big fan of auto isil but we can really customize and set it to work quite well in this camera and so you could just leave it in the auto I assume no, but you do probably want to go into the menu and kind of tweak those settings to the ones that you want from there, make sure that exposure dialogue on the top of the camera is at zero as kind of its default starting position. Feel free to adjust it from there, but just be aware of where it is out for meat oring. I'm a big fan of the multi, which is the middle of the three settings as you turn that rotating caller around the lower part of the shutter speed and so it's gotta dot a semi circle and then a bracket on it and that's, where it's, reading light in multiple different areas, white balance all normally leave it in auto because it does a pretty good job also because I shoot raw and I'm able to adjust it later on. If I see a problem, I will adjust it on the fly. Focusing is best, I think, in most cases just to be left in the single mode, which means it will focus once, and so is it figures out its stops focusing this is so that you can recompose your subject. I like that system, if I should sports enjoyed a continuous for focusing area for focusing area yes, focusing area multi, which is basically looking at the entire frame now personally I don't really like this, but for really, really simple if I was going to hand this camera to somebody who didn't know how to work a camera, I would put it in the multi mode it looks over the entire area of the frame for the best focus and generally that is going to be whatever is closest to you and that's generally what you want to focus on, but not always for the drive mode, I would just leave it in the single, which is kind of right in the middle it's right where the s is, and that way, when you press down on the shutter release, you only take one picture, but if you have this camera, my guess is that you're going to want to go much beyond super simple pictures. So let's, take a look at some very specific examples and so let's talk about landscape photography. This is where we are shooting subjects in front of us that might have a lot of depth to him. We want everything in focus if we're good, we're using a tripod and we're very careful about not moving the camera at the very least when we're handheld, so if we're going to be shooting a landscape photograph, what do we need to be thinking about? Well, I would want to be in manual exposure so that I could make very specific adjustments the first thing is I would want to set my eyes so to the lowest number of possible two hundred is the base setting on this camera and so that's where you're going to get the best image quality next I'm probably gonna want some depth the field now this number is going to vary according to what lens you're using and how much depth of field you need and what type of senior shooting f eleven or sixteen would be pretty common settings the shutter speed is going to totally be determined by how bright it isthe but chances are with a low I esso setting in a very small aperture you're going to end up with a longer shutter speed we don't use exposure compensation because we are in the manual mode I'm still fine with the multimedia ring system good generals system I'm fine with auto white balance in most cases and for focusing I would you single I might use manual focusing as well but even if I use manual I might auto focus using that back button option but have that in the single mode for focusing it area I'm going to want to choose a very specific area to focus and I might do that image magnified to check to see that my image is sharp and then I would probably just use these single mode, but kind of as a little bonus, I might also turn on the two seconds self timer so that I'm not touching the camera as I'm shooting the landscape, and I will mention as I go through this, that for those of you who are buying the class, this comes all in the pdf with the extra information in here. So if you're watching this and go he's going to quickly it's all in the notes, you don't have to worry about taking notes, just watch and absorb, okay? Next up is portrait shooting and here's, where we have a subject that is potentially moving, in fact, hopefully it's moving in some ways, and so you're also going to be handheld most likely in these cases, so we're concerned about our shutter speeds and were often wanting shallower depth of field on these pictures. Now, these types of pictures, I often want to kind of set up and shoot a number of pictures, and because I would want him to be consistent, I'm going to shoot in manual exposure. In this case, I'm often wanting very shallow depth of field so that's, often my first setting, if I have a fast lends to to set that to a very wide open aperture after that, I want to make sure that I have a shutter speed fast enough to stop my hand holding that the camera as well as my subjects, potential movements and so one hundred twenty fifth of a second or faster might be a good call here then I also of course you're going to want to leave it as low as possible, but you may need to bump it up according to the needs that you have on how bright it isthe from there, we're going to leave the media ring in multi will leave the white balance at auto as long as our subjects are not moving around much or they're sitting stiller, they're standing still. I'm going to definitely leave it in single for focus I'm going to go with area and she was a very specific area in which to focus I might be in the center I might move the focusing frame a little off to the sign and when it comes to the drive mode most of the time I can leave the camera and single and be just fine. If I want to shoot a continuous siri's, I might put it in the continuous lower continuous high siri's all right, next up let's do some action photography and so this is one of the best fuji's to date I would say it is the best fuji to date if you want to shoot action photography, big viewfinder, fast focusing system on it in these cases are going to be shooting a lot of pictures, likely under the exact same light and that's the reason I'm going to be shooting with manual exposure in this case, the shutter speed is very important, and so I would choose something fast enough to stop the action for human action and many other things five hundredth of a second or faster would be a good call. Next up, you're probably going to need an aperture of two point eight this is where those two point eight lens has really come in handy. Some of my lenses don't do it, so you just do the best that your lens can handle, and while I would prefer to shoot it ice of two hundred years almost always going to have to shoot it four hundred or faster when you are shooting at these really high shutter speeds from there, we're going to leave it in multimedia ring and we'll leave it in auto white balance and the big change comes in focusing where we change this to continuous so the camera will continually adjust, focusing as our subject moves forward and backward. The focusing area could be either multi or area if it's going with multi it's looking over the entire frame, so this would be good for subjects that you are pretty close on top of subjects that you're filling the frame with uh, the area might be better if your subjects are smaller in the frame and the drive mode. Well, this is where that eight frames a second sure comes in handy. And so when you're trying to capture the exact right moment, the continuous high speed will more likely get you there than any place else. All right, let's, do one more. This is basic photography, and this is maybe the way you might have your camera set up where the way I have my camera set up when I don't know what my next picture is going, maybe it could be a little this could be a little of that. I just wanted to be ready to take photos so I will use a little bit of automation. Here is where I use aperture priority and my thought processes to leave the aperture fairly wide open, maybe f four, and that way the camera will choose a reasonably fast shutter speed. I like to leave the ice so said at the lowest setting, so that any time I noticed that shutter speed getting a little too low, I will manually change the iast so and I know that I've changed it so that when I get back to good lighting, I can change it back to two hundred eyes, so in that it's fresh in my mind this is where you need to keep an eye on that exposure compensation because we're in the aperture priority mode. Uh eh, s and p any of those semiautomatic mode you need to keep an eye on that exposure? Compensation. I'll leave it at zero to start with, but then I will move it. Plus, for brighter subjects and minus for darker subjects on an as needed basis. I'll go ahead, leave that meeting at multi and the white balance at auto focusing. I will just leave it in single so I can focus on a subject and recompose for a focus area. I'm going to choose the middle area of the frame and probably choose a middle sized bracket of those five different options sizes that we have. And for the drive mode, I'm perfectly fine just leaving it in the single notes so that I can shoot one shot at a time. To tell you the truth, folks, the continuous high setting is so fast, it's often going to take two pictures every time you press down the shutter release to take just one picture, you got to be really quick and that's. Why I just leave it in the single so if you have followed this entire class from beginning to hear aiken say, congratulations, you are now a fuji x t one expert so thanks a lot, folks. I'm glad you made it through hope you enjoy your cameras, but let's see if we have any questions toe follow everything up with all right. Fantastic. Lots of new experts out there. I especially love the people who have been saying that they've had this camera for months and are now overjoyed. Tio be able to go out and use them even more the full extent that's, right? If you don't mind, can you humor butler kid with knowing he wants tio know if you have looked at the olympus o m d e b m one compared image quality and the ease of use compared tio this fujii x t one yeah, you have a class for that, right? Do have already taught taught a class on the let's. Just call it the e m one. Ok that's a lot of his olympus being one and it is one of the closer competitors to this camera. The major difference is that the e m one has a smaller size sensor and so image quality on this. I didn't do a side by side, but I shot with both in many different settings, I would probably say is a stop better in this camera, so you know, I s o eight hundred on this is like four hundred on the olympus and that's, just a very general and don't write me a letter I very much like the olympus camera is very much the same size. I like the fuji lenses and I get better quality results with the fuji because it's a larger size sensor, and in general, their lenses are nicer now they're more expensive and so you pay for it. And so it is a bit of a close call between the two, and it does mean there's not that much of a size difference, but it does kind of come down to a size difference because these lenses are getting a little bit bigger in size, and some of the lenses for the four third system are just so tiny. You can get that down himto a really, really small bag. The olympus in one is a king of customizing, and I mentioned a number of times. I wish I could customize this and change this and in the olympus camera you can do off to that. But I really love the physical layout and feel in the viewfinder in this camera. It's, just the viewfinder especially this is something that is notably a notch better than the olympus camera, but I think this has image quality that is a clear step above the m one.
John Greengo is an award-winning photographer specializing in outdoor and travel photography. Shooting for over 3 decades, John has developed an unrivaled understanding of the industry, tools, techniques and art of photography. When he's not traveling for a new shoot,
I've purchased a number of John's courses and recognise how well he delivers complicated facts. Having just purchased a new X-T1 buying his fast start class was an obvious step, especially having looked at the manual. It was really well presented and made the switch from Canon so much easier. The inclusion of the notes was an excellent, additional support.I set up the camera as recommended and took it on a photo-shoot with my camera club a few days later. The content of the course and the settings suggested made the day. Now that I understood the camera it was easy to use and delivered great results first time.
The course was the best 'accessory' I could have bought. Creative Live and John are a fabulous resource and so reasonably priced.
Great course, I received the X T1 and the first thing I did was see to if there was a course on CL I could use to get more aquanted with this awesome little machine. I have seen other course from John and he really knows his stuff, this one was no different. As a late comer to this camera, it would be nice if CL could update the course by adding a video going over the big 4.0 firmware updates, as that's the current one now. Thanks CL and John for helping me feel more at home with this camera!
Great class! The learning modules are well structured and allow enough time for the viewer to absorb what is being shared. After completing the course I feel much more confident in understanding the X-T1, not a comfortable as with Canon (yet) ... there is definitely a learning curve moving from DSLR to mirrorless. So wish I would have taken this course a few months ago! Thank you!