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Fujifilm X-T1 Fast Start

Lesson 9 of 12

Setup and Playback Menus

John Greengo

Fujifilm X-T1 Fast Start

John Greengo

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Lesson Info

9. Setup and Playback Menus

Lesson Info

Setup and Playback Menus

Ok, now we're into the setup men you wanted the camera and this is just general features you're going to set up so most of the things in here are things were going to set once and be done with verily very seldom ever going to come back to these date and time pretty obvious they're not gonna worry about that time difference if you travel to a different timesown rather than changing the date and time you can just do time difference so plus an hour minus two hours and not change the clock on your camera at all we got our language in their set that as need be reset what this does is it goes in and resets pretty much everything on the camera except the time and date as far as I can see and so you have one option for resetting everything in the shooting menu or resetting everything in this setup menu so be careful of not doing this if you have already tweaked your camera to the way you like it to work fuji put on a silent mode which I thought was pretty cool because it made the camera and ju...

st turned everything off and I like the theory of this but I don't use it and the reason is I don't like sounds coming out of my camera except when I play a movie and I want to hear the voice quality and I want to hear the sounds in the movie quality and so if you turn this silent mode on it's going to potentially lock everything out that it's doing and you can go individually, turn everything else off as you need it to be, but leave something on and so it's one quick way of dead mean the sound in everything, but I think you can easily do that by just turning these other sorts of things off, and you'll see some of these controls as we go around, for instance, right here in the sound set up in the operational volume, I just turn that off so that there's no beeping when we go up and down in the menu system because the little selector on the back will be ppp bbp every time you going someplace else and menu and this is really irritating. If you're new to photography, this is how you can really drive your serious photographer friend's nuts is constantly peep peep peep b b b b p and when you focusing a little does little chirp chirp when you're in focus, turning all that stuff down when I do play back movies, I do like to hear sound just because I want to hear sound quality, and I may want to play something for somebody that I recorded in camera so that's why I leave that one up pretty obvious when you're going to have sound next is screen set up and this is a little bit of a rabbit hole because this is going to dive in to a sub menu so let's go into this sub menu where we're going to control what we see on the screen at various times the first one is image display after you take a picture do you want to have the image displayed for you to see in general I like this on sl ours because well I don't know what the picture is exactly going to look like and that gives me a good look but with a e v f and an lcd screen like this you don't really need this and so I think are more advanced users and you could see my recommendation for the advanced users is in red and my general recommendation is kind of more in that gray one point five seconds allows you to see that image for one point five seconds but I think once you get used to the camera you can speed up the shooting process by turning this off and knowing that you've got the right picture because you saw a very good realistic preview of it before his camera is also the first of recent cameras there was some minolta cameras that did this that rotates the display when you are looking through the viewfinder and so it kind of just turns the numbers around for for easier to for you to read and so the only reason to keep this turned off a cz if you like to leave your head turned sideways as you're looking through the camera which when it be most people so I think most people are going to want to turn this on and I think it is on by default preview in exposure in manual mode and so if you are using the manual mode do you want the image that you see in the viewfinder or on the back teo kind of be a preview of what the final image is going to look like and I think this is fantastic for most people's photography because you could look at that and it's a pretty close approximation of how bright or how dark your image is going to be the person who wants to turn this office the person using flash with this because when you use flash it changes the whole exposure system and so I think in the use of flash this is something that you would want to turn off the brightness of the elektronik viewfinder or the back of the camera can be controlled we saw this in the quick menu as well normally these air going to be set to their normal zero settings right in the middle framing guidelines are going to give you a little kind of grids to focus and compose with we have a rule of thirds we have a grid of twenty four and then we have hd frame lines to let you know what would be in frame with an hd formats system and so choose choose the one that you like in there generally I like the rule of thirds one auto rotate for playback. What this does is the cameron normally wants to rotate your vertical images so that you can see him in the back of the camera as the camera would normally be held. The problem is is that that doesn't utilize the maximum amount of space on the lcd screen, so I highly recommend turning this off and so what it will do then it was rotate the image now you actually have to rotate the camera on there we go so that you can see the image but chances are if you shot a vertical image, you already have the camera in the vertical mode. It's pretty easy to see your image in that way you can get the best view of your image so I highly recommend leaving that turned off. Next up is the background color and this is just the color when you are selecting things in the menu it's of no real importance choose whatever color you like focus check focus check what it's going to do is it's going to magnify a small area in the middle of the frame so that you can see what's going on I mentioned this before you can use the focus assist button to go in and zoom on, zoom in, and you can change that magnification with the back tail of camera. But if the focus check and this is one of these ones, I didn't know whether to recommend off or on if you turn it on, it automatically magnifies in every time you turn the focusing ring on your lands. And what happened is I was just holding the camera and I touched the focusing ring ever so slightly, and it kind of flipped into this magnify mode, and I thought that I kind of like just pressing the button on the back of the camera. Same I kind of like that manual set up options, and so you might try leaving the focus. Check on if you do a lot of manual focusing and see which one you prefer focusing display units, so whether you like meters or feet, you can put that in here and that's the little graph on the bottom of the screen that tells you where you're focused, display custom settings, and so if you want to customize the display, remember one of the options for the display and there's, both a customized display for in the viewfinder, as well as on the back of the camera, what you see in the viewfinder. When you're looking through it and so check off on ly what you need and no more than what you need next up, we're going to page two on the function set up, and here is where we have the function settings. The camera has six function buttons and a function button is a button that you can reassign what it does, and you'll be able to go in here to each one of these different buttons and tell the camera exactly what you want it to d'oh, and I'm going to give you no recommendations here because this is your camera and I want you to set your camera up the way you want it to work, and this is the way one of great things we can do with customize our camera to our own specific needs, the command, I'll we have a front command ill, and we have a back command ill, and in general, they have kind of specific controls the front one controls, the shutter speeds the back when controls the apertures and if you said, you know what, I wish they were reversed. You go in here and you can reverse, um not sure if there's a great need for it, but you can do it s o dile setting remember on the ice, odile, we have a high one and a high to setting what s owes would you like to be high one in high too? And so the choices are twelve thousand eight hundred twenty five thousand six hundred and fifty one thousand two hundred and there's three choices and you can choose two of those three. And so whatever your needs are, my guess is is that most people don't care about fifty one thousand two hundred because in which quality is very, very low focusing ring okay didn't know if you know this, but focusing counterclockwise is kind of the standard system on most lenses throughout the world. So whether you pick up a likea auras, ice or cannon or pentax or media lands that's, the way the camera's going to focus, if you turn it as you hold the camera, if you turn it counterclockwise, it's going to focus to infinity, but the one company that is different is nikon, and they have this river system. So if you come from nikon, you'd want to set the rotation to clockwise, however, fuji, because the way that they read out the numbers in the camera it's going to be most logical if you have the nikon or clockwise selection chosen here, and so I prefer counterclockwise, ok, let me make this even more complicated. I'm used to the nikon system the clockwise but that was when I shot with nikon. Now I shoot with cannon so I'm used to counter clockwise but I think the fuji camera actually works better with clockwise and so choose which everyone is you like but if you like the one that works with the read out in the camera it seems more logical to me choosing the nikon or clockwise motion. All right everyone's thoroughly confused let's move on I had mentioned earlier in the focusing section about turning the high performance switch on on this camera this is where you do it in the power management we have two different sub controls in here. One is how quickly does the camera power down? Two minutes is pretty normal you could make it shorter or longer and here is also where we have the high performance setting and so what this will do is it will give you a little bit faster focusing and a little bit faster start up time. So when you just turn the camera on how quickly isn't ready it just pumps a little more juice in there and turns it on but it does waste a little bit more battery power, so if you're very low on batteries, you could potentially go into power management and turn this high performance often squeeze a little bit more life out of your batteries sensor cleaning I mentioned that the camera can automatically do this when the cameras turned on or turned off and you can choose which is more convenient for you. I think I have my camera set to do it when I turn it off, because sometimes when I turn it on, I want to take a picture right away and I don't want anything slowing the process down. Now we can also go in and do things manually as well, and if you want to manually clean your sensor theirs two basic stages and I think most people are going to be qualified for stage one, which is using an air blower. Now what this does is when you squeeze this, it blows a little stream of air that you point at the sensor and hopefully we'll knock off any dust that's on it, stage to not everyone feels comfortable with, and this is where you use a very, very special swab that especially designed for the size of censor its hold assembled in a clean room, so it has no dust on it. You put a couple of drops of alcohol in it, and you wipe it across the sensor to clean it, and so the idea is just to kind of swab the deck, if you will. And clean off any specs that air on the sensor you do have to be very careful because the sensors exposed and if you don't know what you're doing, you could damage the sensor, which would potentially total the camera or at least be a very expensive repair and so that's a step that some but not everyone will be comfortable taking save dead data set up and so this is controlling a couple of different things the way they work first office, the frame number which frame number and how it issues frame numbers to each image you shoot normally you're going to leave this on continuous, but if you would like to have it set at renew, it will start again back at zero or at least zero zero zero one problem with this renew option is that it's not good to have duplicate pictures with same number on it, so there must be a very good reason why you are doing that and be aware of conflicting data with other images that you've already shot with the same number save original image. I leave this on when you shoot a red eye image and the camera goes in and when you should an image that has red eye and you have the red eye reduction turned on the camera will save two versions of that image one where it did a fix on the red eye and the other it'll save the original image, and so whenever the cameras doing something to an image, I like to keep the original information so I would leave that turn on. Then you can also go in and you can edit the file name and you can change the three or four letter code that precedes the frame number on the file name. If you want to change it to your initials or something, that means something to you, you can go in and change that on the way it writes the file name to the metadata. All right, third page on set up we're getting closer to done, but remember, we have three sets of tabs in here when this is just the end of the second. Okay color space. The camera normally comes set to s rgb, and this is the standard kind of color gamut toe work with when you shoot raw, you automatically get adobe rgb, but you can also select adobe rgb if you're shooting j pigs and so I just selected as adobe rgb, I might as well get the largest color gamut possible. For anyone who likes to work on the computer with their images, anybody who wants to print their images this would definitely be the best option. Next up is our wireless settings, and here you can go in and you can make some mohr settings for how the wireless system works the previous previous wireless option we saw was basically to turn it on and turn it off, and so in here you can go in and change the name of it. You can change the size of images that he would transfer from the camera to your phone and there's also some automatic saving or auto save settings for those of you with pcs that also have the pc little app for automatically downloading images to pc. Be honest with you, I've never even tried that in real life yet, so I haven't played around with that mode. Don't ask me questions on facebook about it. I'm not likely to try it in the future pc auto safe settings ok, kind of a continuation of this. And so if you have a w p s push system where you can just push a button on a wireless system, you can transfer images with a pc once again haven't tried this in real life. In theory, I think it works fine. I think you're probably better off, though, just taking the memory card out of the camera and plugging it straight into the computer. For those of you who like geo tagging your images using your phone or other smart device that's around you, you could hook it up to the camera for geo tagging. You need to have that on you need to have the camera on and you can go in and control whether that's turned on or turned off or shows you the geo tagging during the playback mode format what this does is it goes in and it deletes all your photos on the memory card in the camera and it re formats the memory card to its new state what it does is it deletes all the data directories ghost in empty folders on there as well as anything else on there and re establish is it this is something that I do on a regular basis anytime I'm headed out on an important shoot so right before I go on my next big trip toe cuba or morocco or wherever that might be, I'm gonna want to make sure I have a charge battery and I'm gonna want to go through and format that memory card so that when I go to the airport I have a fully functioning card that has the maximum amount of space on it. All right let's, switch over to the playback men you know remember to get to this secret little menu you gotta hit play back and then you hit the menu button and then you will see these green arrows show up which allow us to get in here and we'll see once again another wireless communication in case you're in the playback mode you want to transfer an image you can turn the wireless system on from here rather than jumping back into the other camera function settings, which is where it was before so rockin version if you shoot a rock picture in camera and you don't have a computer with you but you want to make a j peg of it in camera you can do that and you can go in and you can do all sorts of settings to this now there was another shortcut for this and that shortcut was when you were playing back an image if you hit the cue button on the back of the camera that would help create this uh file here so that you could go in and make that change don't really do this on my own. I'm more than happy to make these changes in the computer, but you can do all of these right in camera and potentially see the results right in there without a computer. If you do want to erase images individually there's a garbage can button on the back of the camera or you can erase it here in the menu system. The advantage of coming here is that you could select individual or kind of you can more quickly go through a large group of images selecting them to erase but if you really want to get rid of all of them it's much better to use the format that is in the camera set up menu system. If you want a cropped images, you can go into a jpeg image and you can crop it down once again. This is something I would recommend using a computer for same thing with reese icing. If you want to make a smaller size image for easier download, potentially you could do that, you could protect images. This does very little to protect the images, they won't be able to be deleted, but you could still reform at the memory card, so be aware of that you can rotate your image is the only time that you would really want to do this is if you're doing a slide show and your vertical images are showing up on their side, and you want to rotate them for a tv or for the monitor on the back of the camera, you can do that red eye removal, we can remove red eye in pictures that we've already taken the camera will kind of look at him and try to remove red eye if it sees it, we could do a slide show either for in camera or for hooking up to the hd, my port and hooking into an hdtv, for instance, and what this will do is you can set it up to be normal, you, khun do, ah, special note where it zooms in on faces, which might be kind of entertaining or funny. I'm not sure on that you can choose the way it fades between slides as well. Photo book assist, another little menu item that I have not really used nor will I ever use, but you can create little books and albums of images that you could more easily print from if you were going to be printed teen directly from the camera. I used the computer from many of these things mark for upload to so if you wanted to have a picture that was destined for youtube or facebook or fuji zone my fine pics dot com you khun mark that for specific load, and then when you load it onto your camera, it's kind of already got those tags and it knows where it's going. You can do an image search and you khun search the images on your card by date by face by your favorites, you know, with your star rating system or by other types of data that they have in there. S o kind of interesting if you've been on vacation for a long period of time trying to find a particular image, you can use this search, I try not to have that many images on the card that I'm trying to search through him in this manner, but it's there in case you need it next up pc auto save if you are using that wireless system that I talked about earlier, you, khun set this up, either with a simple set up or emanuel set up because you need to make a connection between your computer and the camera. If you want to do the wireless setting, personally, I think you're actually gonna be faster and easier just taking the memory card out of the camera and plugging it into the computer or the memory card reader that you might have. You can print directly from this camera if you don't have a computer, which is a nice option if you need it, and if you want to, you can control all of that here in the print order system and there's going to be a number of parameters about what each print your pretty and how large and how many quantities and so forth. Okay, we're on the third tab, the playback menu, the display aspect ratio. So when you hook up to an hd tv, do you want it to go full screen, which makes it sixteen by nine, which means you're cropping off a little bit of the top and bottom of your image? Or do you want to display the full image and have what are known as pillars on either side of the image, just black screen? And I guess it depends on what's most important to you filling the screen or showing your entire composition. I'm kind of picky about my images, so I want him to be fully on the screen, so we'll choose three by two if and when I ever used that word and that is the entire menu of the camera and my recommendations when we take a breath, what do you take your rest, john? You want to take a couple questions? Sure, I cool. Um, we had a question about the folders. Can I create a new folder for my images? I would like a different folder for each shooting day, and we had to do that, but would you recommend doing that? Um, I recommend downloading each day would be my first choice second choice might be separate memory cards, then things air really separated, because sometimes we'll have maybe somebody who shoots real estate and their family photos, and when they go show a slide show to their customers, they don't want to show their kids in the swimming pool on family pictures, and so they kind of want to have separate things for that, and I think the safest thing is just to have separate cards, but if you could only buck up twenty bucks to buy a memory card once, I suppose you could do that, but uh to tell you the truth on this camera I don't know that you can create any sort of I don't think you can because most cameras you can but I'd I just went through this and we can change file names but we can't change what folder it's in so it's not even a possibility okay so never mind one there we go remember mine all right another question about geo tagging how do you hook up your phone in order to geo tag is this through wireless or does fujii make an adapter? So you go through the set up that we did early on in the class where you're setting up the wifi system I just went into the remote shooting one of the four options is geo tagging and I haven't played around with it very much but if you go into the geo tagging your phone's going to need to be on need to have its gps system turned on you need to have the cameras wifi system turned on and I have a feeling that that is going to be a problem for anyone who turns their camera on and off on a regular basis and so I think it kind of everything kind of needs to be turned on and left on in which case it drains batteries very very quickly and so there is a serious downside to that my opinion but that is the basics of it

Class Description

Learn all of the features and functions of your Fujifilm® X-T1 camera.

Knowing your camera’s capabilities is essential to getting great shots. In this Fast Start course, John Greengo covers everything you need to know about the features, buttons, and menus on your Fujifilm X-T1. You’ll learn how to use the weather resistant, interchangeable lens and how to put the high-magnification viewfinder to good use.

This Fast Start tutorial course will show you know how to use The cool retro design and visible controls of the Fujifilm X-T1.

Class Materials

bonus material with purchase


Firmware Update

Keynote Presentation

Ratings and Reviews

Student Work

Related Classes


a Creativelive Student

I've purchased a number of John's courses and recognise how well he delivers complicated facts. Having just purchased a new X-T1 buying his fast start class was an obvious step, especially having looked at the manual. It was really well presented and made the switch from Canon so much easier. The inclusion of the notes was an excellent, additional support.I set up the camera as recommended and took it on a photo-shoot with my camera club a few days later. The content of the course and the settings suggested made the day. Now that I understood the camera it was easy to use and delivered great results first time. The course was the best 'accessory' I could have bought. Creative Live and John are a fabulous resource and so reasonably priced.

Jim Panzer

Great course, I received the X T1 and the first thing I did was see to if there was a course on CL I could use to get more aquanted with this awesome little machine. I have seen other course from John and he really knows his stuff, this one was no different. As a late comer to this camera, it would be nice if CL could update the course by adding a video going over the big 4.0 firmware updates, as that's the current one now. Thanks CL and John for helping me feel more at home with this camera!

Debra Robert

Great class! The learning modules are well structured and allow enough time for the viewer to absorb what is being shared. After completing the course I feel much more confident in understanding the X-T1, not a comfortable as with Canon (yet) ... there is definitely a learning curve moving from DSLR to mirrorless. So wish I would have taken this course a few months ago! Thank you!