Playback Menu and Camera Checklist


Fujifilm® X-E1 & X-E2 Fast Start


Lesson Info

Playback Menu and Camera Checklist

If you recall in order to get into the playback menu what you need to do is you need to play back an image so hit the playback on the back of the camera and then hit the menu button and magically you'll have the three green tabs for the playback menu wireless communication you khun turn on or off the wireless system if you want for the playback options you can do a raw conversion so if you shoot a raw image you could go in and you could change the white balance of it you could adjust the dynamic range and well you can see the whole list here so what you do is once you're looking at the image you could hit q for creator you could back out of this if you want so it's a neat little option for anyone who wants to convert a rod too a j peg image out in the field you can of course erase images but that is also why we have the garbage can button on the back of the camera uh the erase image will also give us the option to race all images or potentially if you know you want to get rid of a lot ...

of images but you individually want to pick here and there it might be a little bit easier to do it here then to go through the garbage can buy you can crop in image if you want and this will only work with jay pegs and what it does is it creates a copy of that original limits of while you may be cropping it, you are never really throwing away that that original image you can resize an image as well and what that actually means is that you can size it down and so you can size it down to a medium or a small size or even a smallest six hundred and forty pixels across and like the cropping option, this creates a copy of the image and downsizes at the original image. Even if it's a j peg remains the same, you can protect an image which is putting a little electronic lock on it so that you cannot delete it from in camera before warned that you can still form at the memory card and delete it that way and you would be able to delete it potentially and other programs outside of the camera you can rotate individual image is the main reason you would need to do this for playing back in the slide show mode you've taken a vertical that you want to turn sideways mostly will not be necessary. Okay, we're getting near the end of this, folks okay red eye removal we can go in on the sexy one and what this does is it copies the image and it tries to fix the red eye in it and so if you want to do it in camera you can do it I think programs outside of the camera are much better programs like light room from adobe do a very good job at it you could do little slide shows, hook your camera up to a tv and show people the pictures have been taken there is a photo book assist which is kind of a whole little fuji thing where you can put together a little album and then upload it to the fugees website haven't tried that one myself yet and then we can also marked images for upload and this is going to be for you can upload pictures or video for youtube or facebook if you want to and this is for use with a program called my fine pick studio it only works in windows does not work in pcs and something that he would have on your computer for downloading images from the computer or from your camera excuse me to your computer image search allows you to search by a number of different factors if you want to go through a bunch of images you can search for him by date for instance and a much quicker if you're on a long trip for instance eso just a good way to search through images that are already on a camera so this last one is for use with a fuji film pc program it's an auto save program and it's only going to work in the xy two not too many people are going to be using that one, either. If you want to look your camera up to a printer, you can there's a whole bunch of little settings for controlling the size and how many prints and we're not going to get into that here. I think you're going to get much better off if you just simply download the images to your computer, have a program like photo shop for light room and then print from there, but it can be done directly from camera. Finally, we've gotten to the last tab, the last page in the menu. If you do want to do a slide show, do you want to fill the hd screen? Or do you want to show the full image that you shot? If you want to fill the screen, you go sixteen by nine, but you're losing a little bit of the image area that you recorded three by two puts what are called pillars on the side, and you get the full image you shot, but the screen is not being used to its maximum. And so I prefer three by two here because I want to see the full image as I composed it in the camera and that's it we're done with the menu system and that right there is basically the entire camera that's it. I don't know if we have any questions, but one that I'd like to ask is from, uh, bill in boca owes one of our regulars wanting to know. Is there a way to personalize the camera with your name and phone number? Potentially where if you get lost, if it gets lost, someone some kind person finds it will, right? But there are other cameras that electronically have that option. Okay, I will have to say that if you have a label maker, there is lots of room on the outside of the camera for putting labels where your name are, but there is nothing electronically for you to put in owner or copyright or august artist like some other cameras do so no, not other than in the file name option. You can put three or four letters, and so you could put your initials in there and you know if you put your initials in there and somebody steals your camera and you're getting in a tug of war and the police come by and we'll whose camera is this? Well, my initials are in the camera here's, my driver's license there's my initials that's at least a little bit of proof that it's your camera? Yeah, cool on dh also like to know, can you magnify images and playback? In playback, you can let me go ahead and do a little live demo here. So if we could get one of our cameras thank you over on our camera. And so once again I will just do I know I did this before, but you are going to do it again. I do something a little bit different here, so I'm going to focus on you. I focused there we go picture. Ok. So let's, play back the image and there are two ways to zoom in. We have the plus over here on the left so we can hit that and we can zoom in. We can control and jim is forever waving at the crowd. Nice. Okay. And then we can zoom back. But what I did is I selected a focus point that's not in the middle, but that's slightly up. And by pressing the command wheel in the back of the camera, it immediately goes to where I went. And now I can zoom in and out, which is five times and ten times. And if I want, I can back out using the same system over here. So there's two different ways in order to do that well, the final little section here is now that we've done the whole camera were basically done with the camera we broke it down and all these different parts. Well, how do we actually work with this out in the field? And so when I'm going out shooting here's my basic checklist for what's important? Well, first off, I want to make sure that I've got a charge battery, and it is actually in the camera. I want to make sure that I have a fresh memory card or one that has been formatted I'm going to want to make sure that I am shooting the right type of raw images. I want to get raw for most of the things that I shoot with this camera, and once again I'm shooting rob plus fine, because I want to get the maximum magnification when I play back the images out of the field, I delete all the jpeg images later on because I don't really need them. In most cases, I just prefer to go with the wrong I've gone through the menu system, and I've kind of made sure that I haven't left anything in the unusual position. The most common mistake for photographers who attend a photography workshop is to go out in the evening and do a bunch of night shooting, whether it's at dusk or past sunset, and then they get up the following morning at about nine o'clock in the morning, they realised. I met aya so thirty two hundred because where they left it the previous night and so making sure that you reset things and you don't haven't left anything in unusual position, and if you're going to be on an important job or you're going to take a big trip and you're gonna go some far flung location, you want to make sure that it's your sensor is clean at least as you head out the door. I hate to get back from a trip where every picture has a huge dust speck some place in the sky that's going to take you a lot of time to go in and clean up. You can clean that stuff up without too much hassle but it's better to have it nice and clean from the start. You want to start with a clean slate so let's, talk about what you actually need to change on this camera for your most important settings and I have narrowed it down to ten features ten settings that you're going to change on a regular basis and for my first set of recommendations is what I call my super simple set up and for those of you with the pdf, this is going to be the final two pages of the pdf all of this is on there, so you'll be ableto follow along with that and so for a super simple mode I am going to guess that anyone who has watched this class all the way through no longer needs the semper super simple no, this is if well, if you were going to hand the camera off to somebody else in the family and you wanted them to take good basic simple pictures, I would put the camera in a program mode, which means automatic aperture automatic shutter she needs so we don't need to worry about setting our shutter speeds and apertures I would set the I s o tow auto I don't normally like to leave it there, folks, but in this case it will do a fine job make sure that exposure compensation dial is at zero and if you're dealing with somebody who has fumble e fingers, you may want to take some gaff tape and take that down because it can get bumped. The safest metering is going to be the multimedia ring, which is the dock with semi circle around it and auto white balance tends to do a very good job focusing I like the single mode it's good mode for just about everything and it's definitely the safest between the two focus area multi uses all the focusing points and will focus on the first solid object it gets too and so it doesn't work great in all situations but for very simple basic photography it's going to work out pretty well and for the drive mode, I would simply be in the still image so that you shoot one picture at a time, so that is the super simple mode. All right, let's get a little bit more specific let's try some landscape photography, and so when I say landscape photography, I'm thinking about subjects that are not moving hopefully you're doing things on a tripod or at least very, very steadily holding the camera nothing's moving around. And so what? You're mostly concerned about his depth of field, you want lots of things in focus and you probably have a little bit of time to get the shot. I like being in manual for doing this sort of thing first thing that I'm gonna want to think about is a low I s o so that I have the finest quality image coming onto my sensor, then I'm gonna want to be thinking about how much depth of field I need. Now this is going to vary according to the situation you're in, but f eight eleven, sixteen, twenty two might be some numbers that you end up that quite commonly in lands. Hey photography now the shutter speed is totally going to depend on what is necessary also if you're on a tripod, but a lot of times you're going to end up at slower shutter speeds like a quarter of a second when you have stopped your aperture down and you're using a low aya so but once again that shutter speed will be variable according to the conditions this is just simply for an example the media ring I am just fine with multimedia ring and I am fine with auto white balance for focusing nothing's moving here so you want to be in single focus and that's the control on the front of the camera that dial for focus area I prefer choosing a very specific area do we want the foreground and focused the background someplace in the middle is where a lot of cases were on the to focus so that I could get a little bit of both and focus and for the drive mode I'll use still image and as an unlisted bonus you're going to want to use either your cable release or the two second self timer to get the shot so that you're not bumping the tripod if it is on a tripod so that's how I would set the camera for a landscape type shot next let's do a portrait shot so no longer are we on a tripod shutter speed is much more important here because we're concerned about well our movement holding the camera and our subjects movement which might be moving around so let's take a look at how I would set this up now in these cases in this case I would also use manual exposure I like choosing my shutter speed aperture and I esso myself the one that I would probably set first is the aperture a lot of times for these portrait ce I like shooting with the fastest possible aperture next I'm gonna want to make sure that I have a shutter speed that is appropriate for the situation it depends on how fast my subject is moving or maybe even what size lends I'm using one hundred twenty fifth of a second would be a nice safe shutter speed for that and I will of course try to be at the lowest isil possible all two hundred if I'm under decent lighting I'm going to go ahead and keep the meeting in multi and the white melanson auto unless there's something specific that needs to be changed for focusing I definitely want to keep it in single I'm going to want to focus on a small area and I'll probably use a very small bracket and try to focus on the eye of my subject because having the eyes and focus is the most important in a portrait and for the drive mode continuous would be another option here I'm going to go with still image just to get one image had that very best moment so that's the set up for portrait hope that makes sense so let's move on to the next scenario which is action photography which I will mitt admit to this camera struggles a little bit with it because it just can't track the action as fast as many of the sl ours but if you can narrow it down as faras manual modes as faras choosing a fast shutter speed, for instance five hundredth of a second does a good job for human action here is where it pays off to have a lens that goes down to two point eight and so if you have it, you're probably going to use it if not, you're probably going to be wide open with whatever lends you use I would like to shoot it I s o two hundred but pretty much any time you shoot action you're going to be above two hundred the cameras it's very cleanly at four and eight hundred so don't hesitate to shoot there if you're done demands needed with that shutter speed being up there high like that go ahead and keep the meter in and multi and the white balance in auto focusing this is where we make the change to continuous and remember those of you with the x e one the camera does not do focus tracking, it follows the action and if the action moves really quickly it has a hard time staying on it the xy two does a little bit better job tracking that action and this is where using the multi area which is all the point ain't eyes going to help out a little bit now remember the focusing tracking of the xy two is on ly the center nine points and so try to keep your subject towards the center I don't like that compositionally but let's face it sports photographers have to do a lot of cropping after the fact it's just the nature of the game and for the drive mode the continuous low mode with the xy two has the focus tracking you considered to the high mode but it will not be able to track the action as well as it will in the low speed you can still do some tracking it's just not going to do nearly as good so if you have action that's going to happen in a particular spot like the example at second base I showed you in the baseball game the continuous high mode there would work so that's the action setting so kind of for the final one a good one too exit this class is basic photography this is where you kind of don't know what your next shot is but you want to be able to have control over the camera and so this is how I walked around cuba in many cases with my camera set up and that was with a little bit of automation and that is aperture priority of prefer that moat it's very quick and easy to adjust the aperture I generally leave it mostly wide open, and then I will close it down if necessary. I'll try to leave my eyes so as low as possible, and I will just occasionally bump it up if I go into darker regions where I need faster shutter speeds, we've got to keep an eye on the exposure, compensation, die along the top of the camera don't want that to get bumped too far out of whack. It will be pretty obvious, though once we start to shoot pictures, so generally going to leave that at zero multimedia ring does a great job. Auto white palance is good unless you have a very specific situation that you know, to adjust for, and I will leave it in the single mode, so I focus on a subject and then I'm done focusing, and I'm worried about timing and composition. I like focusing on a smaller area rather than all forty nine points, so I will choose an area in the middle that is fairly tight and small in size and finally, generally I'll just keep the camera in still image. I actually had the camera a lot in the continuous motor drive when I was in cuba, and I couldn't stop myself from taking two pictures because the motor drive is so fast on it, it's hard to get your finger off the shuttle release. If you're just trying to take one picture, which is more than enough in many situations, I just want to get one at a time. And so I would probably just leave it in the still image. So if you've been able to follow through with all of that, I can say, congratulations. You are now an xy one or x e two expert.

Class Description

Learn how to get the most out of your Fujifilm® X-E1 or X-E2 camera. This course will review all of your camera’s buttons, functions, and features.

Both the Fujifilm® X-E1 and X-E2 combine portability and ease with traditional controls -- the retro revolution is here! You’ll learn about everything your camera has to offer. John will guide you through the features, menus, and buttons on your camera, giving you the confidence you need to take pictures like a pro. You’ll learn about the Fujifilm® X series’ revolutionary sensor technology and how it delivers incredible, high quality images. You’ll also learn about the X series’ compatibility with a variety of lenses.

This course will help amateurs and professionals put their camera’s features to work.



Nice one. Just an easy and refreshing way to review all the buttons and function for an east start. Built nice with extra tips and views comparing to reading the user manual.