Fujifilm® X-E1 & X-E2 Fast Start

Lesson 6 of 9

Shooting Menu

 

Fujifilm® X-E1 & X-E2 Fast Start

Lesson 6 of 9

Shooting Menu

 

Lesson Info

Shooting Menu

This is a great time if you have the pdf handout printed out and kind of go through and get your settings down, so I have my recommended settings that are going to go through in these air kind of generic good starting ones. I don't know that the ones that come in the cameras are the best, but that's a good one to start with, so let's, go ahead and dive into my kino, so in the menu setting, when you press menu, you're going to see shooting and set up options, and just to let you know, we're going to do this in a little bit. There is a secret playback menu that you have to be in the playback menu mode to see. There is also a secret movie menu that you have to be in the movie mode in order to see, which means you have to dive into the drive button, select the movie option and then come back impress menu and that's the only way that you can get in to that special movie mode, but we'll be dealing with that in just a minute or two or three or for ok, so if you want to dive in and hit the men...

u yourself and follow along, this would be a good way to to work through this part of the class so we're just going to go through this top to bottom some of these things we've already talked about and we'll move by pretty quickly but we're going to talk about everything in here so the so sunny the sensitivity of the censor s o two hundred is the best sensitivity on this I know you can go lower down the one hundred you do need to be in j peg in order to do that or to go up to the really high twelve and twenty five thousand settings, but two hundred is where you're going to get in general the best detailed information off the sensor this is also where you will get control of the highest high eso auto control and so normally I would set the default sensitivity to two hundred maximum some sensitivity depends on your personal needs and styles probably in the range of sixteen hundred to sixty, four hundred and the minimum shutter speed to the lowest shutter speed you feel comfortable hand holding on a regular basis and this may change with the lens you use I with a with a zoom lenses that have the stabilization built in I could see setting this down as low as one eighth of a second I think I can go lower than that, but that's probably the safest number tow have in there so that's the setting next up is image size. We saw this when we were in the quick menu, but this is where we get to choose the large medium and small, which is basically the number of pixels you're shooting, and most people are going to want to shoot the larger size possible. The sensor in this camera is a three by two aspect ratio, so you're probably going to want to choose three by two for the aspect ratio, unless you have some special other needs that you are addressing. Next up is the image quality. This is where you get to choose j peg or raw, and they're j peg is normally known as fine and normal. The fine is a little bit higher quality, it has less compression, you'll get a little bet, better color information with fine than in normal s o if you're just trying to get quick images out of the camera, fine would be the recommended choice. If you're a little bit more serious, you're gonna want to shoot raw, and the reason I'm shooting rob plus j peg is simply so that when I played back an image I can zoom in and you need to have a j peg in order to to zoom in as close as possible, you can still shoot ron zoom in it's just that you can't zoom in as far as you could otherwise with the j peg and so raw plus j peg is kind of my pit for the more serious photographers next up is the dynamic range now this is only gonna work if you are at higher esos setting it up to is so two hundred or four hundred there is an option to put it in auto and let the camera figure things out but I'm never really that happy with letting the camera figure out most of these things and so this is something that I would specifically choose and it depends on how much you're shooting at I s o two hundred versus one of the higher settings if you are shooting it s o eight hundred and up I think that it's good to put it at the dynamic range four hundred percent there is no riel downside to it if you are already at eight hundred or higher next we have our film simulation I think we saw a short cut to this in the quick menu as well and this is where you can go in and shoot with a slightly different color style on the images after that is the choice for films since simulation bracketing we saw earlier in the drive mode where we could do a bracketing siri's and one of the options is to shoot with three different film types over basically a single shot and so you get to choose what those three film one looks are like and so if you like to have a slightly different look to your images you could set in what your three favorite films are and then do the film bracketing which would automatically go in and get those pictures of those three different styles self timer it's kind of buried in here a little bit there is a shorter, quicker easier one to get to in the quick menu but you can do it here two or ten second self timer so we're going to move on to the second shooting tab so you can kind of just dial down to get to the second tab and we have our white balance options we talked about this before choosing the different types of light that you might be shooting under in addition to this, if you go to the right you'll see all those arrows to the right you'll be able to go in and customize any one of those settings even mohr on so if you're for instance in the color temperature the came out you could go in and step select exactly what temperature you're at or you could just any of the ones that are in there and tweak him a little bit if you found that the incandescent is not quite the right incandescent for the lights that you work under you can adjust that so very very customizable the color option is going to be changing kind of the well, I would say the color density or saturation so normally this is something that you're going to probably want to leave on zero unless there's a very specific project that you were changing it for just a small group of pictures the same thing goes with the sharpness and kind of the rest of these in this part for section two of the shooting menu the highlight tone the shadow tone the noise reduction these air all ones that I would generally want to leave at zero because any change that you make well first off it's not going to be affect anything in raw it's only gonna affect images in j peg and if you start setting everything to super high sharpness for instance you go plus two on the sharpness well it's supposed that's not quite right for that image it's very hard to undo that later on so keeping them zeroed out is the safest unless you have something very particular you're doing the next two noise reduction and long exposure noise reduction we spoke about this earlier but this is where the camera will go in and it will look at the noise that is on a particular picture and it will do what it can to fix that particular problem and the downside for the long exposure noise reduction is that if you do a thirty second exposure it's going to take another thirty second dark exposure to fix the problem now the fix that it comes up with is pretty good but there's a good chance that you can do better than that if you have the right software and know what you're doing and so for the more advanced users I tend not to want to use the noise reduction for somebody who is kind of new to photography or doesn't have all the software doesn't have the right computer for doing that then you can let the camera do it to some degree you could leave it turned on for that now one of the things is that if you do shoot raw any of these six items that you see up here white balance to noise reduction can be done in what's called a raw conversion which means you shoot a raw picture you go into the playback mode and you can convert this into a j peg and you can make these adjustments after the fact which is really nice because then you could be a much better judge of what you want to do after the picture has been taken the long explosion noise reduction kind of falls outside that realm and it's something that you need to choose ahead of time I think the more advanced photographers are going to want to turn this off and manipulate it later in other software if you're new to photography perhaps just leaving it on letting the camera do it might be the simpler choice so under the third tab len's modulation optimizers so this is something that's kind of new in the xy two and what this is is the brains of the camera going in looking at each of the different lenses that are being used and it looks at the defects or the deficiencies of that lens and it corrects for them digitally or electronically and it sounds a little hokey folksy hokey pokey I said I'm not sure what but it does a pretty good job I tried to shoot some sample shots but I didn't come up with any really good sample shots that showed the difference between used turning it on and turning it off but it looks at subtle little deficiencies in the lands and can correct for them and I don't have a good reason not to use it it seems to do a fine job and not really have any problem it's and if you're kind of curious as to what it's looking for its looking at sharpness sharpness in the corners for instance it might be looking at diffraction and might sharpen images up so that it makes the the lens is a little bit better to use when you stop him down to f eleven sixteen in twenty two and would be kind of probably looking more at the edges than at the center to kind of fix these sort of little problems and so on lee on the x see too I'm finally when it turned on select custom setting so this is where you can go in and select one of those seven customized boats that I talked about a little bit earlier and once again you can set the camera exactly as you wanted and have it pre set in there up to seven different modes how do you get him in there? Well, you got to go to edit and save custom settings right here where you can go in and you can custom build the program for your camera as you want and then store it enough to seven different options and so if you have things that you shoot on a regular basis whether it's shooting in a particular environment maybe you're the high school photographer and you shoot all the sporting events in particular jim and you've got the lighting you got the white balance he got theis so you got your meter in the motor drive everything set up for that situation dial it in and then save it here and then you khun selected in the setting just above this the select custom setting mountain next up is the display customs setting if you recall on the back of the camera one of the options for displays is thie custom setting which means you get to choose what you see and so in here what you're going to be able to do is go into this long list of items and choose what is it that you want on screen? And my suggestion is to start with nothing and add on ly what you really need to add, because all of the rest of the stuff will simply be clutter on top of your image, making it harder for you to see what you're shooting. And so for mine. I want to see if my shutter speeds my apertures, my I esso, and whether I've made any exposure compensation, and after that I pretty much left everything blank. I might occasionally go in and turn something on if I have a need for a particular type, I've shot that I'm working on next up. If you happen to have that mount adapter, which allows you to use like a lenses, they have six presets that will send the focal length information to the metadata of the images that you're shooting preset for twenty one, twenty four, twenty eight, thirty five and then you can go in and customize lens five and lens six in there with that system. Next up is shooting without a lens. Ok, so if you don't have a lens on this camera, you can turn off the shutter release so that it won't fire at all potential problem if you put stuff in the sensor like you're cleaning the sensor of that shutter opening and closing that could potentially cause a problem so unless you have this adapter you should probably just leave this turned off for safety reasons but if you have one of the adaptors you want to turn that on so it allows you to shoot a picture without a standard lens on the camera next up is thie f illuminator that's that little light on the front of the camera right there and so you can turn this off if you want to put your camera in the stealth mode and I like to have my camera and a bit of a stealth mode so I'll individually go in and turn off the little beeps and lights and so forth and so I'll turn this off now you'll notice over on the right hand side that the sexy one has this in shooting menu number four and so if you haven't xy one keep note of these little annotations on the side because you made have features in different parts of the menu and you'll see more of that as we dive further into the menu system okay we're down to the fourth tab on the shooting menu and personally I think this is buried pretty far into the menu here but this is the auto focus mode whether you want to be in all points or choosing one bracketed area and I highly recommend the area mode that way allows you to shoot in one specific area and choose one area in which to focus next up is our face detection mode and so in the xy two you have the option for face detection which does work pretty good, but when you have more than one person I find it a little hard to direct it to what you wanted to do and so my preference is just to leave this turned off completely focus area on the camera has a much easier button to get to write on the back of the camera there's an a f button on the back of both of these cameras in ater enable, which enables you to get to changing where that point iss and so it's in here I'm not really sure why, but just to have it as a backup area to get to ok. Next up we have something called pre a f and what this pre auto focus means is that your camera would be always focusing which means it's a really good system if you want to wear your battery down because it's always looking to focus and it doesn't really seem necessary in most situations so I would leave it turned off for tom a tree is theme eatery light metering and the multi motors we talked about earlier is a good generic two hundred fifty six segment mode for me during if you wanted to go to a second one to be more precise it's the spot one that you would probably want to go to next up is the auto exposure auto focus lock mode on the camera and this is where you get to choose the way the buttons work not what they do but how they do it so do you want to be pressing on the button for it to work or do you want to press it once and have it kind of turned on until you press the button again and so most people I think prefer the pressing option but the switch option is something that might be popular for some people the f lock mode so the button what happens when you press this does it lock the focus doesn't lock the exposure does it lock both for many people the a e plus nfl is going to be the logical choice where they're locking both focus and exposure ok, next up we're going to be in page five tab five wireless communication this is something the xy one does not have and this is basically where you need to go to turn the wireless system on your camera if you don't have that shortcut still on the top a lot of us are changing that back to isis you have to dive in here to change that wireless communication and turn it on if you want to download or push images or pull images to your phone for instance, the flash mode talked a little bit about this. These are the different flash options that we talked about auto slow sink, second curtain commander and forced flash and so you do need to kind of dive into the menu to get to this I believe it's a short cut that you can put on to a lot of the function moz as well. Normally I'm going to leave it on flash force because one of the things that's nice about this is the flash will not pop up no matter what you have to physically pop it up and when you pop it up then it will fire. We then have some little bit more subtle control over the flash in flash compensate compensation and why this is here is because when the flash fires normally, what happens is the flash fires as much light as it thinks it needs and sometimes it doesn't think right, and so if you want to power the flash down a little bit, you can do that. The range is a little bit different between the xy one and the xy two, but you can see in this next set of examples here that powering the flash down from the standard t tl mode gives you much better skin tones so depends on what else is in the photograph what's in the background and the xy two does have a little bit of an expanded range, which is nice going all the way down to minus two I have never used a camera in the plus range when it comes to flash compensation, it's always been in the minus two, basically cut back a little bit on the flash. You don't want to have it overpowered in the picture and so always kind of dialing that back a few steps, so if I had to just recommend a setting in general without even knowing what you're doing, I would say about minus two thirds would be a good place to have that flash compensation. Next up is red eye removal and what this this will not work in the rahm. Oh, this is for j peg images, and what this will do is it will go in and at least with the xy two, it will go in and digitally try to remove the red eye if it can pick it up in the camera. The ice mode. Normally, I would leave this on one, which is continuous when the cameras on and you're looking through it it's going to be going through the stabilization option two is when you're on ly shooting pictures, and it probably only needs to be there in two. Having having it in one is a bit of a luxury. I like that luxury, and so if you were getting very low on battery power, you could go to number two, the aperture setting. So this is if you have one of the lenses that does not have an aperture ring on the lands, turning the back dial is how you change the aperture, and the question is, do you want to be able to go to auto aperture as well as all the manual settings back there or not? So you have the choice of a plus him auto or manual, and I guess it depends on how much switching back and forth between manual and auto you're doing on your lens since but I think a plus him would be a logical choice for a lot of people in half assist is the manual focusing assist options, and this is something that has changed quite a bit with firmware upgrades, and so you will not see this unless you have the most recent firmware upgrades. So within here, one of the options is you have is a digital split image for the xy two, and I was kind of excited to get this mode, but it wasn't quite the same as my old split image viewfinder. From my slr back in the eighties it z not as easy to work with his aside hoped focus peaking has been very popular in this muralist cameras and so they've enhanced the mode in these cameras so now you can choose different colors and different levels of brightness and so you can choose red white blue hire low settings for all of them and I like the concept of it but in the real world it kind of is a little irritating and so there's going to be some people who swear by this and love it and other people that aren't too fond of it because it does make your in focused image look a little strange depending on the subject material okay, so what we're going to do now is we're going to go into the video menu which requires you to go into the dr mode, switch it to the video mode and then come back and press the menu so I'll give you just a moment to get that figured out so dr select the video mode and then come back and hit the menu and you should be able to get into these shooting menu mt so in the movie mode the options here are going to be choosing what your frame rate is and your resolution so most people want to shoot full hd so that they can have their images and videos is high quality is possible with the x e one, the maximum frame rate is twenty four frames per second on the xy two. I think most people are going to want to choose thirty frames per second, but it can do up to sixty frames per second, which would be nice, as I said before, if you're going to play back in slow motion, next up is something that it sounds like we just talked about, which was face detection, and we did, but that wasn't for the movie mode. You can do that in the movie milk, which once again not refined up. You can also choose film simulation, and while I'm not a big fan of film simulation, it is a bit more important here and video that it isn't still images because in still images, a lot of us are shooting raw images that we can adjust to our heart's content later on in the film simulation motive in the movie mogul movie mode york shooting and rock you're shooting in kind of a final look that, yeah, you can tweak a little bit later, but you might want to get in here and adjusted for the type of look that you want to have if you're going to be shooting a lot of movies. Next up is another one that we've seen before and that is white balance and so this is the same as we saw before but just choosing it for the video mode that you might be in after this we have a mic level adjustment, so if you want to control how sensitive the microphone is picking up sounds, you can do that here levels one to four are all you have which is not much adjustment when it comes to picking up audio the level three would be a pretty normal setting on this we talked earlier about the socket on the side of the camera the two point five millimeter jack that accepts either microphones or remote well, this is where you get to choose their you sticking in a microphone are you sticking in a cable release? And so if you are sticking in the mike, this is where you would put in mike the display customs setting allows you to customize what you're video or your view mode is going to be like when you're in the movie setting so you you're selecting this before for still images now you get to specify just for the movie modes when it goes into the movie mode what things do you see on screen and so simply fill it up with his little as you need but as much as you might want, we do have a second video mode and in here will have the ice mode. And, once again, it's the same continuous or shooting option here. So you want it on all the time, or on lee, when you're shooting video and it's, kind of a little bit of a luxury, I choose. And number one. And so for the non our lenses, which are kind of the economy lenses. How do you set the aperture on those lenses? And I think for most people, a plus and means that you can get to all the manual settings as well as the auto setting on it.

Class Description

Learn how to get the most out of your Fujifilm® X-E1 or X-E2 camera. This course will review all of your camera’s buttons, functions, and features.

Both the Fujifilm® X-E1 and X-E2 combine portability and ease with traditional controls -- the retro revolution is here! You’ll learn about everything your camera has to offer. John will guide you through the features, menus, and buttons on your camera, giving you the confidence you need to take pictures like a pro. You’ll learn about the Fujifilm® X series’ revolutionary sensor technology and how it delivers incredible, high quality images. You’ll also learn about the X series’ compatibility with a variety of lenses.

This course will help amateurs and professionals put their camera’s features to work.

Reviews

a Creativelive Student
 

This course was outstanding! I recently acquired an X-E2. I am still an amateur, though I used a Nikon D-90, for the past few years. I was a bit confused on how to translate the dslr controls to my new Fuji. So, this class is exactly what I needed. The way the course is designed and the clear instructions were great. I love going back to see something over and over until I truly understand. This was my first CREATIVELIVE course and I know that I will take more. Thanks.

user-98587b
 

I found this course completely by accident. This class is not listed in Photography under "Fuji". Or under "Hardware", where many other camera courses are featured. This is a good course. I appreciated the thorough explanation of each dial, button, and menu item. I also liked that John described how he, as a professional, would set the camera for his own use. That helped me understand how the camera would likely be set up for use by a professional. I was disappointed, though, by John's dismissal of JPEGs output by the camera. As he notes, the only benefit he has of JPEGs is to check the results of the shot he just took. But the JPEGs that the X-series cameras produce are widely acknowledged to be excellent. John says he can always exceed this quality by working over RAWs in post production, and surely so. ...But he'll spend quite a lot of additional time doing that, and he likely owns the software needed to do so. It's just odd that he did not acknowledge that there are some benefits to the in-camera processing of JPEGs, and that it is due in part to Fuji's unusual sensor design. This was an issue only because there are a lot of settings that deal with JPEGs that received next to no attention in the course. I was also dismayed by his dismissive attitude regarding some of the camera's setting limitations. For instance, he was mystified and bummed out that the benefits of the Dynamic Range settings could only be realized by a requirement of minimum ISO settings of 400 and 800. But I easily found an explanation for that: DR reduces exposure to capture highlights that would otherwise be blown. Then it uses those extra stops of ISO headroom to enhance dark shadows and midtones. I don't believe there's another course like this one. It does present a lot of valuable information in a very easily digestible format. That xe2 is a lot more familiar to me now that I've taken the course!

DMargulies
 

Nice one. Just an easy and refreshing way to review all the buttons and function for an east start. Built nice with extra tips and views comparing to reading the user manual.