Left & Right Sides of Camera
Onto the left side of the camera. Looking at the controls over here, the kit lens that is often accompanied with this camera is available as a body only, but if you do get it with the kit lens they oftentimes will put it with this 18-55 that has a button to retract the lens. And so, this is just simply to keep it in its retracted position as I mentioned at the top of the class. So, any time that you are shooting you're gonna need to press in, turn the lens, and get it into its shooting position. We've already been talking about the flash button, which has three things that it does. It pops the flash up, it allows you to change the flash mode when you turn the main dial on the camera, and then when you press the plus/minus button on the camera, as well as the flash button, you can go in and change your flash exposure compensation. The function button is a button that you get to choose what it does. It is currently programmed to change the ISO's, which I think is a fantastic option, some...
thing that a lot of photographers change on a regular basis. And there is no other way to change it on this camera, with a button on the outside. You have to dive into the I menu. And so, this is a single button. But if you do not change the ISO that much, you can reprogram this, because it is a function button, and there are a number of options that you will be able to go in to and change it to be something else if you want. So, if you need that, that is really the only normal function button on the camera that you can program into a specific set of other features. Down on the bottom is our release mode, and this is where we get to choose what happens when we press the shutter release on the camera. So, let's take a look at our options in here. So you press down halfway to focus, you press down all the way to take a photo. Most of the time your camera's gonna be probably in the single frame mode, pretty obvious, you shoot one frame at a time. If you are shooting action, and you wanna get a series of photographs, we have a low speed and a high speed at three to five frames per second. The reason it's four or five frames per second is it depends on a subtle little setting that we're gonna get to in the menu as to what size files you are shooting. And so, it depends on that 14-bit and 12-bit option that we'll get in to. We also have the option of Q, for quiet. Now it is not totally quiet, or silent, but it does slow down the mirror movement in the camera, so it does make a little bit less, less technical noise. It's different noise, some people don't like the noise as much and they think it makes more noise. Technically, it's more quiet, but it is kind of an unusual sound. And then, finally, we have the self-timer, and there will be a number of options on how long you can set for the self-timer. You can also set a series of exposures. So, if you were gonna be doing a group shot, you wanna get in the picture yourself, you're gonna probably need 10 or 20 seconds for that. And any time you take a group shot, chances are on the first shot somebody's gonna blink, or somebody's not really gonna be paying attention and looking at the camera. And so, I find for doing group shots, what I like to do, is I like to do a 10 second exposure, and shoot about four or five pictures. And so, after 10 seconds, it'll shoot five pictures in a row. And hopefully, everybody will have their eyes open and smiling and looking at the camera, for one of those five shots. But it gives you a number of shots, so that you don't have to run back and forth from the camera to the group shooting pictures back and forth. Now, if you wanna change those self-timer settings, you're gonna need to dive into the custom setting menu, under c3 self-timer and make those adjustments. You don't have to do it now, we will do it when we get into the menu section of this class in the second half of the class. Next up, there's a couple of little symbols. We're gonna be talking more in this class about the Bluetooth and Wi-Fi option on this camera. You can go in and have this camera send information, photos to your phone. You can control the camera. You can shoot remotely with your phone, and it's just got little symbols on the camera to let you know that it does have those features built-in to this camera. And so, if you need to go in and adjust those settings, in the setup menu there's gonna be a couple of options, one for Bluetooth, one for Wi-Fi. We're gonna get into that in the last section of this class. Next up, we have a little rubber door which allows us access to the different ports on the camera. The first one is our accessory terminal. This is where you would wanna get the Nikon MC-DC2 remote cord, so that you could trigger the camera for long time exposures or just any time you wanna trigger the shutter release without actually touching the camera so that you don't move the camera and cause any blurriness. There are other ways of triggering the camera. There is the WR-R10 wireless remote, and the WR-T10 transmitter. And so, if you wanna get a wireless remote, you do have that option as well, which gives you a fair bit of distance that it will work on. There is also a GPS unit. The camera does not have GPS information built-in. That information can be added to the photos, either through your phone, if your phone is connected up to the camera, or you can plug this unit, which will gather the GPS information and automatically add it to the metadata of each of your photographs. Next up is a microphone input jack, so if you wanna monitor sound while you are recording video, you can do so by plugging in standard headphones into this jack. Finally, we have a micro-USB. This is a 2.0 jack on here, and this is where you would plug your camera in if you wanted to download pictures from the camera to the computer. Over on the right side of the camera, we're gonna see another little symbol here. The camera is also built-in with an NFC capability, so if you have a device that is NFC capable, you can activate the communication by simply getting it close to that little mark, because that's where the sensor is in the camera for that device. We have another little door on this side, and this is the HDMI port. This is what sends the video signal out of the camera. You might wanna send a video signal out if you wanted to do a slideshow on a TV. Let's say you took a bunch of photos and videos, and you wanna showcase them to everyone. Well, you don't bring out the old projector anymore, you plug it into your TV. And so, you get one of the little HDMI cords that plugs in from here to your TV, and you can have a slideshow straight from your camera. You can also use external recorders to record the video signal coming out of the camera. At the bottom of the camera, there's a little tiny door right there. It's a power connector cover, so if you have in the battery compartment, not a standard battery, but this EP-5A, which is a power connector, allows you to hook your camera up to AC power. And so, that connector is gonna cost around 50 bucks, the AC adapter EH-5b is around a hundred dollars. That would allow you to power your camera as long as you had the cord plugged into the wall. And so, this would be for scientific, or studio environments, where you needed to have the camera powered up all the time and you couldn't have the battery die for any reason at all in there. And so, you don't need to use batteries with the camera, you can just simply plug it in with those adapters. Next up is our memory card door. So in here is where we are gonna put our memory cards, that uses the SD memory cards. It's a UHS-1 compliant port. You can put UHS-2 cards in there, that's not a problem, it just doesn't read it at the faster rate that those cards are. So let's talk for a moment about some of the memory card options. So, it does use the SD cards. They do have a lock feature. Be aware of that switch on the side that'll prevent data from getting read or written to the card. There's different size cards, which is the HC and the XC option on those. There is the bus speed of the card. This uses the UHS-1. There is UHS-2 cards out there right now that have two lines of information not fully utilized in this camera so not completely necessary. The maximum speed of the card can help out in writing images to the card as quickly as possible, as well as getting them downloaded onto your computer very quickly. If you do a lot of action, sports photography you're shooting lots of frames, you might want a card that does a little bit faster. The minimum speed of the card is important for people who shoot video, because video is a hog on data and it uses lots of data every second that it's shooting. And so you need to have a card that is modestly fast. Now this camera does not shoot 4k, which is kind of the new, high-res standard in video, that a number of cameras have. This camera does not have it, it's still shooting standard HD format. And, on this case, you would probably wind up using a class six card or faster, which is very, very common at this point in time. As I said, it is possible to download straight from the camera to the computer. It's kind of slow, so it's not something that I would generally recommend. And so, getting a card reader and plugging that in, it's gonna be a much faster download onto the camera. And if you have a computer that you can plug the cards in, that's a great system as well. When you are using the memory card, something to thing about is format your memory cards as frequently as you can. Now this does delete all your photos, but as soon as your photos are downloaded you should format the memory card, delete the photos off the card. It gets rid of the old data directory, any sort of ghost folders, or any other information on that card that your camera does not need to be trying to communicate with. And so, it'll give you the longest lifespan out of those memory cards. Just do that on a regular basis, or before any big trip or any big shoot that you're going out on.