Movie Shooting Menu
All right, next major category here is the movie shooting menu. So this is for all the controls for shooting movies. First up, you can reset the entire shooting menu for movie. If you've just want to get it back to its factory fresh settings. The file naming on this can be changed. So all the three letter codes for your movie filenames can be changed if you want. Put your initials in, for instance. In the case you're wondering, D-S-C stands for digital still camera. Let's the know what type of device it came from. You can choose the image area. You can choose the DX or the 1/3 crop area. If you wanna get in a little bit more telephoto, you can do so here. The frame size, frame rate is arguably the most important setting in the video movie shooting menu. This is where you get to choose what the resolution is and the frame rate of the images that you're shooting. And so the HD is 19 by 20 which is gonna be fine for basic video work. If you wanna get the 4K, then you wanna get it up at th...
e 38 40 by 21 60 option. We also have the option of movie quality, and this is just the compression rate of the video file. So if you plan to do some editing with the video coverage, and you're gonna be editing down to the frame, you probably wanna have this set at high quality. If you're just looking for basic video from the camera, you're probably gonna be perfectly fine with the normal setting. The movie file type. We have two different movie file types, and there's different types that will work on different types of devices. The MOV file is a little bit higher quality file. The MP4 is a little bit easier to work with on a wider variety of computers. Little bit more common format, but it's a little bit older technology you might say. And so MOV is the preferred one. You can have a different set of ISO sensitivity settings for shooting video as opposed to shooting stills. So you can come in here, and it's gonna be the same type of ISO settings that we set in the previous camera section. So in this case, you can choose the maximum sensitivity that's available to you. You can choose the auto ISO control whether you wanna use that or not. And then the ISO sensitivity when you're using the camera in a manual mode. Normally you would wanna have that set at 100, and you would bump it up as necessary from there. You can also choose a separate white balance when you are shooting video versus still. And it would go through the same different options that you would have in the still setting, but in this case, it's only gonna be turned on when you're shooting video. Setting the picture controls. We were taking a closer look at this in the camera section. But it's gonna be the same here. One of the options that's relatively new to Nikon is the flat option. So the flat option is to record a non contrasting image. And the idea here is that you're gonna do some color grading. You're gonna adjust the contrast of this to fit a particular type of look later. And by recording it flat, it gives you the most versatility in being able to raise the highlights and lower the blacks and adjust the contrast exactly as you want it. You can go in and manage the picture control. And this is where you can go in and create your own settings. So you can take a setting from Nikon that you think is pretty close. Maybe the portrait option, but you wanna go in, and you wanna tweak it, adjust the sharpness, you wanna adjust the contrast or saturation a little bit one direction or the other, you can go in, and you can control all of that in there. The active D-lighting is what's gonna try to raise those shadow areas and lower the highlights for everything that you shoot. And so leaving this in normal is probably fine for most video shooting. The picture control will often have control of this for other, more advanced users where they're setting this at flat. So if you wanna have your shadows boosted just a little bit, leaving this at normal would be a good call. If you're gonna be shooting with higher ISOs, when you're shooting video, it can be a little bit harder to fix that in post-production. So this is a good place to fix that for those of you who are not gonna be going into external editing programs to work with your video. The flicker reduction here is a little bit different than the flicker reduction we looked at before. This is mainly gonna be a flicker reduction for what you see at the back screen of the camera. There are certain fluorescent lights that flicker in a way that might interfere with the screen on the back of the camera. Leaving this at auto will usually fix the problem, but if it's not working, you can switch it to 50 or 60 hertz. When you're recording sound from the camera, the microphone will pick up the sound and adjust it automatically if you want. If you wanna get in there and control it manually, you can do so. You should probably be using headphones on the camera if you do. The frequency response is normally set to Y, but if you know you're just gonna be recording a voice, you can set it just to that range if necessary. If you are shooting in a windy environment, wind hitting the front of the camera can cause a lot of noise with the microphones on the front. And so this will turn on a low-cut filter so that you don't get quite as much of that bad noise. It's still gonna be not so great because if you really want great sound, you should probably add an external mic onto the camera. But it does improve the built-in sound by a little bit. There's an interesting electronic vibration reduction option in the camera, and what it does here, is it crops in on the frame a little bit, and you're gonna lose a little bit of your wide angle capability, but it's gonna record the image within that, and it's gonna balance it as you move the camera around. So if you are moving the camera around, and you want it to be a little bit steadier, you can turn on the electronic VR option. Now we did look at a time-lapse option before, but the time-lapse movie, what it does, is it record a complete movie that is finished and processed in camera. So it's gonna go through the same options that we saw before for the most part. When do you wanna start it? How much interval do you want between one image and the next? How long do you wanna shoot for? And this is the shooting times. So this might be ten minutes or an hour, or longer. And then you can turn on the exposure smoothing or not if you want the camera to automatically adjust for each individual frame. And so in this case, once again, the difference is that you are getting a finished video file whereas in the previous case where we were looking in the shooting menu, you're getting a bunch of individual photographs that you would go in and manipulate. And so if you shoot individual photographs, you could delete individual photographs, you can make individual adjustments to 'em, and that's gonna be far more difficult when you shoot it into a complete movie. So one's for simplicity, and one is for control. This is the simplicity one.
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