4. Menu System
It is time to dig to the inside of the camera the menu system, so to activate the menu system, there is a menu button right there on the back of the camera. So if you go ahead and press that button, you'll notice that over on the left hand side, there are a number of tabs, and these are groupings of information that you can go in and change. And so the very top tab the playback button is for the playback menu. Things to deal with what you were playing back images. The next one. The camera icon is your shooting menu. If you are wanting to make some adjustments to something that affects the performance and shooting of the camera that's where it's likely to be, there is a section for set up where you will generally make very few changes. Once you have got working with your camera, these air the types of things that you change once to your liking, and then they usually stay there for the less rest of the life of the camera. There is a retouch menu this camera can almost substitute for phot...
o shop you, khun retouch a lot of images right in there. This is one area that we're going to kind of skipped a bit on, but your camera can work on images that it has already taken. And then a great place is recent settings anything that you have done recently kind of gets logged here so if you want to find your most common settings it's probably going to be in your recent settings and then of course down there at the bottom you see that question and that indicates that you can hit the question mark, which is actually the minus magnify might excuse me minus magnify uh for more information about any of the features in there so if you want more information, you can hit that question button and get more information about what you are looking at so now we're just basically that going going to go through the menu one by one we're going to start with the playback menu and we're not going to spend too much time in the playback menu because thes things air fairly the obvious I think in my mind first off is the delete button let me go ahead and get my live camera on the delete as well I don't really use this button at all because I simply used the garbage can on the back of the camera I think it's quicker easier to work with but if you want to get into a deleting mode you can do it through there you can choose all individual individual although all excuse me you can choose all of images you can choose images by date but as I say, I think it's easier just to use the button on the back of the camera. Next is the playback folder, and this is where I'm going to recommend to make a change. And so if you have a camera here in the classroom or at home on I have a strong recommendation, I'm going to tell you now and it's sometimes most communion to make your change right now. Now the options to change the choice, the choice is our current or all I would change it toe all, and that is so that when your camera placed back images, any folder that is on the memory card, you will be able to see images on if you happen to have a different nikon camera. So you have a nikon d two hundred, you take some pictures, you take that memory card and you put it in your d thirty one hundred your d thirty hunt one hundred is not going to see those images unless you have all selected, and you could not see those images, perhaps and go, I can reform at the card and all those images would be lost. And so it's, just good to see through all those images unless there's a specific reason not to, the next thing we're going to look at is the display mode and in the display mode you have detailed photo information and transitional effects, but we're going to do is we're going to go into detailed photo info and here you have some check boxes that you can go in and turn on or off and what I would do is I would actually turn all those on which is highlights rgb hissed a gram and data set and then go up to done and click okay? And what you're doing here is that when you play back a picture and let me play back an image I have here on the back, your camera you have this touch pad and when you go up and legal left and right I should preface that changes the pictures that you take when you go up and down that selects different information for you to view so you can view information aboutthe shutter speed aperture you chose um where you have different settings on the camera set towards and then you have your history grams that you can see either in just the brightness settings or in the rgb colors and that's just more information that you can use, you don't have to use it it's just a matter of going up and down when you play an image back now one of the options in there is highlight information highlight alert and I'm gonna show you an example of what highlight alert iss what's going to happen is any pixels that are completely blown out are going to blink black atyou and so you can very clearly see if there are pixels that have been oversaturated with light now it's not necessarily a bad image if this happens but it's something for you to be aware of that that area is going to be very, very bright and perhaps completely blown out. The next item that I want to look at is thie image review basically, I would leave this on that way when you take a picture it's going to show up on the back here camera if you wanted to really save on battery power, you could turn it off rotate tall. This is one that I would recommend that you turn off not sure if it's turned on or off for you, but I would turn this off that way when you take a vertical image, it will be the full size of the back of the frame, so let me see if I can get this toe work. I'm going to shoot a vertical picture actually I'm gonna change it to a more reasonable center speeded aperture and so here it is on the full size top to bottom actually there's a little bit of our highlight alert going on right there, but you can see that we're full frame if we have that turned off, it would only show up through a very small area on the back of the screen and this way we can see our images as easily as possible. Next up is a slide show mode and this is one of those areas you can find out more information in your instruction manual, you can put a whole slide show together, various links of time and how you have images grouped and so forth something you can check in the instruction manual about as well as princess you confront directly from this camera. Most people are downloading to a computer and printing from there, so I don't want to waste too much time on that. We're going to move on to this shooting menu, but first we'll just pause for just a second to see if there's any questions on playback menu related items plane back delete information highlight alert I'm getting a lot of shaking heads both live and reaching round the world, so maybe we'll move on. Any questions will hit at the next little paws. I do have a question from paula and ohio how do we get the highlight again? Highlight alert that was in the let me go and go ahead and do it on my camera so menu I'll go into playback and it is in the display mode we go to the right detailed photo information, go to the right again and you need to check off your highlights write down their press set to either give that the check, but you do have to hit the done and click that is ok as well. Anything else? All right, so we're gonna move on that's pretty simple. The shooting menu. This is where some more important things were going on s o in the shooting menu, which is the camera icon. So you want to make sure that camera icon is yellow over there on the left hand side, the first option is to reset the shooting options, so if you've gone through and you've messed it all up, you can just simply go to reset shooting options, and it sets it back to factory default standards, which are not terribly bad. But you may want to make some changes, which is what we're going to do now. The next one is set picture control. Now, if you shoot raw, this doesn't really matter, because you're getting all the true raw data information setting picture control, adjust the color, the contrast, the saturation of photographs to your particular liking or standard. If you go in there, you'll see that there's things like standard neutral, vivid monochrome portrait landscape and it's tweaking the contrast in saturation to those situations if you shoot j peg. In general, standard is a good place to leave it, but if you want to kind of finalize everything, you could move it to something else. The thing is, is that this is exactly what you might be doing in a program like photo shop, and so I think it could be more successfully done later than in camera, but if you wanted it done in camera, you could if you want it and there's all of our standards for making that change next up, we're going to talk about image quality, and here we're going to talk once again a little bit about our raw plus j peg raw or shooting just j peg and so once again, if you have any questions on this, you can send him in right now. But in general, if you want to get all the true data from the sensor you want to shoot in raw, the only little caveat is that you need to have a good processing program for working with that program later on and so program like light room works really good apples, aperture works very well, I photo could do it a cz well, so there's a number of programs that work out there if you don't have one of these programs and you're just getting started, you can either shoot j peg or you could shoot raw plus j peg and kind of put all those raw images in a file that you can get to later when you know you have the right information toe to deal with him. Ah, but at the very least if you're going to shoot j peg shoot the highest quality that you can just making a quick little change here my care some question. Yeah. Parks in the chat room is there only one ross sighs yes there's only one ross eyes in this camera some more advanced cameras you can shoot smaller raw sizes, but just one in this camera. Okay. Okay, what do we have next if you do shoot j peg let's get to the right area on the camera I'm working with well, see, I have mindset and wrong. I'm gonna go ahead and set minded j peg just so I have access to the next menu is thie image size you can choose how many pixels you are recording. Once again I would choose the largest size possible unless there's our highly compelling reason that you want to shoot smaller size you want to get as much out of your cameras possible, so shoot the large size. Next up is white balance and we've already talked a bit about white balance and you can change it on the information screen but you can go in here and change it as well personally, I think it's a little bit buried here to get access to it so I would access it through the information screen more would be more easy to get there, and those were the options, different daylight conditions there, next up is thie eso sensitivity, and this is something that once again can be changed someplace else, but if you want to change it here, you can now when you do get in here, one of the options is to set it to auto by turning the auto sensitivity on, and when you do that, you then have the option of setting what the max sensitivity is going to be, so you could tell it kind of where it's going to max out and where you set this totally depends on how you like to work with camera. I don't like shooting with auto is so, so I'm going to turn it off, but you could set the maxence eternity as well as the minimum shutter a seed. I think setting the iso setting yourself is an important step in taking control of your photographs. So next page on this and this is we're still in with the cameras were just scrolling down, you'll notice there's a scroll arrow on the right hand side if you're working with your cameras right now and we're going to move down to active, delighting which is something that we talked about earlier and it basically is trying to lighten the shadows in general I would probably recommend turning it off I don't have a strong recommendation here but I would hesitate to turn it off and do that sort of work in the computer later on because you could do it more precisely. Auto distortion control okay, so I got a picture to share with you this is the salar de uyuni down in bolivia and I shot at a very, very low angle and you'll notice the horizon is slightly curved and it's not because the earth is curved it's because my lens that I shot with is not perfectly corrected it has a little bit of distortion to it now the next image and I will just kind of go back and forth between these two is a corrected image and so it has fixed that little problem and so this is something that I would turn on so that is thie auto distortion control I would turn that on next up is the color space not going to get into a huge thing on color space but I would go in and change this to adobe rgb it's a larger color gamut than s rgb it captures more colors and I think you want to have your camera set up to capture as much information as possible so I think that's a good thing next up is noise reduction and some pictures to share with here. Shea, with you on this one. Ideally you want to set your cameras low of eso is possible because that high I s owes you will have noise problems. This camera does have a built in noise reduction system. There are noise reduction programs that you can put two pictures that you have already taken. The one in this camera works pretty good. The good side is that if you have this turned on there's, nothing else you have to do later on. The bad thing is, is that it's? Only as good as what this camera? Khun d'oh. And there are other programs that can potentially do better than this camera and it can often slow up shooting in low light situations. And so your shot to shot speed may slow up because the camera needs to process mohr information. Eso it's, your call is to whether you turn that on or off. I typically leave it turned off and we'll turn it on in certain situations only next up is your autofocus area mode. This is something we've already talked about, um, in the information screen. But there are two different areas that you can change in here viewfinder and live view. And in the viewfinder to start with, I would put it on single point. That way you get to choose a single point to be on for the live view movie mode. It kind of depends on what you're using, but in a general sense, I would say wide area f would be a good general system to have for this camera. Next up is thie f assist you remember, on the front of the camera right over here, there's this little light that comes on when it gets to be very low light, it will actually turn on and act as a flashlight to help focus. Some people don't want to be a beacon when they're shooting, and they don't want to. They want to do it in a little bit more stealthy manner. And so if you don't want that to come on, you can go ahead and turn that off. I have no recommendation on that. It's whatever you want, the media ring system on this, this is more easily accessible through the information screen, but your same options are available here. You can go in and change from matrix center waited in spot, and I would probably have it on matrix I think that's a good general one if you're going to keep it in one area. After that is movie settings once again, another setting that's duplicated with the information you can go in here and change the quality for general. I would probably keep it at the highest quality unless you know you want something else. You also have control over the sound. You can turn off the built in microphone with it. Next up, we have the built in flash and there are some controls that we have in here. You can actually have it fire manually if you want. Teo, I think for most people, you're going to probably wanted t tl. But if you specifically we I want a low powered flash, you can go in and you can power it down using the manual city for general, I would leave it in t tl. Next up, we're going into the tool section, which is thie setup menu. These air features that many of which you will never use or if you do use you mainly used once, and this is just setting the camera up for the way you like it toe work, and the first option is to reset set up options so you can basically reset your camera to the factory default by going in there and activating that. The next one is the format the memory card if you want to erase all the information on the memory card, all the directories, all the files, all the folders this is where you do it and this is where I would recommend getting rid of all the information on your memory card before you head out on an important shoot. Next up is l c d brightness you can adjust the brightness of the screen the standard setting is zero and that's where it should probably be unless there's a problem with your screen or perhaps if you're trying to play images back under very bright light conditions sometimes if it's sunny out you're trying to show people pictures on your camera it's hard for it to see and that might help out a little bit, but I wouldn't leave it there because it's going to be hard to look at images under other conditions and judge whether their properly exposed next up is info display for matt and this is where we get to choose either the classic or the graphic display and so if you like the graphic with the aperture that opens and closes, you can choose that or you can choose the classic system, which has the slightly larger numbers, and if you choose the graphic you can choose actually which color it appears on the camera next up is thie clean image sensor and if you go into that you khun clean now you can clean at the on and off, or you can customize that even further as to win the cameras doing the cleaning, I would say having it do the cleaning at startup and shut down should cause no problem at all and help keep that sensor as clean as possible, so that would probably be the best of all. The options is start up and shut down with the clean image sensor for a mere lockup. This is for manually cleaning the sensor in your camera. We talked a little bit about this on one of the questions, so if you want to get in and use a sensor swab and clean the censor, this is how you activate that feature, and if you want to use it for picture taking mere lockup will enable you to get steadier will enable you to take the picture without having the mere in the camera vibrate in a very slow shutter speed around an eighth of a second, the camera susceptible to vibration movement and so in vibration reduction. If you excuse me, if you enable the mere lock up, you're going to help reduce some of those vibrations that are moving through the camera when you take that picture. Next up is the video mode, and we've already talked a little bit about video mode but this here is referring to ntsc standard or pal standard here in north america it's ntsc in other parts of the world palace the video system that they're using so if you're going toe record video you're gonna play it back you probably want to have that set for the country that you live in hd mai's basically turning the hd my output adjusting that for resolution and for the device control if you're going to have this camera hooked up to an hdtv flicker resolution you can adjust the hurts that the camera is shooting the live view at this is generally not really important unless you're getting getting a flickering image on the back here camera when it's in the live you or the movie mode next up is setting the time zone and date this is real important when you first get your camera to set the correct time and date in your camera and then adjust it when you go travelling or when daylight savings daylight savings time changes then the language of course wanted to use the language that you understand and after that his image comment this is where you can go in and put into some text data that will be associated with all future photographs if you go on vacation you could put on the country that you are currently in you could put your name in there you could put copyright information whatever you're interested in auto image rotation now that sounds like something we had already talked about before this one you want to have turned on and it should be on coming from the factory, but this will rotate your images when you download them to the computer, which is a nice feature tohave to not have to rotate all your vertical images. The next one down is your dust off reference photo if you get dust on the image censor and you can't clean it off and you're in a place where you can't get to anyone who can clean it off, what you would do is you would photograph a white piece of paper and then you would register that with the camera and the camera would essentially clone out and shoot over dust on the sensor. Take a look at your instruction manual to figure out more information about how this works it's kind of only an emergency situation that you want to get into auto off timers. This is what we went into it, the very beginning of the class you could go in and you can select this to be short, normal or long, or you could even go into custom and you can customize how long things stay on and how long they stay off I'm going to go ahead and make one of the changes right now and then go up and then click done change that self timer delay allows you to change from a ten second to a two second self timer. If you're doing a lot of group shots that you want to get in, you want the ten second self timer. If you're working with a tripod and you're just wanting a short delay so that your hands aren't on the camera, you could set that to a two second delay after that is the beep, and I was like to turn this off so that your camera's not making a whole bunch of noises, that air distracting to you or people that you're photographing so you can turn that on and off as you wish. Range finder, if you like to manually focus with this, you can turn the range finder on, and it turns on some indicators in the viewfinder to help give you direction on where sharpest focuses eso ifyou're, a manual focus user. If you're using a manual focus lens or one of those older autofocus lenses that don't have the auto focus connection, you might want to turn that on file number sequence on this one, I would turn it on s o it is continuously numbering your photographs and is not resetting. If you have it off, it'll automatically reset to zero zero one every time you start a new memory card, and you don't want to have too many images with that. Zero zero one is its final name because it'll end up being a problem later on in your computer working down a little bit more buttons you can go in here and you can customize different buttons on the camera, the function button, the a e, l and f l button you can customize as well as theeighty lock option on the shutter release I'm not goingto dive into what all those options are in there, but you could go through there and customized the camera to your liking slot empty release lock I would recommend keeping this on locked what happened that is, if you don't have a memory card in your camera, it won't fire the shutter so it's a good indicator that you are doing something terribly wrong by trying to take a picture without a memory card. If you want to just play around with your camera, you can turn that feature into the opposite road next up data and print. If you want the date to imprint on the picture you're working for an insurance company or police department, do you want the date on the picture? This is where you could actually have that done. For the most part, I highly recommend keeping that turned off storage folder you can create different folders, for instance, if you have just one memory card and you wanna have business photos on one folder in the card and you want to have personal photos on the other you can kind of separate those, so if you playback images, you're only playing back when one group of images if you want to hook up a gps unit to it, you can have some controls have the gps setting and the same with the aif I excuse me, where am I? I'm lost I don't have a knife I card in here, but if I did have a knife, I card in here that's why I missed it, you would go in here and you could adjust some of the settings for the ai fi setting. Finally, the firmware version your camera has software that nikon written has written for this camera that changes from time to time and let's take a look at the firmware on this camera and the firmware on this camera is one point o one, which is the current version as of the taping of this show, and this could change in a month or two, and nikon could come up with a newer, better firmware version and if they do that, luckily, you don't have to say in your camera back to japan to have new software put on it, you could go to night cons website, go to their downloads and drivers, and you can download the new version of the software you would basically put it on a memory card and put that memory card in the camera. There are full instructions online and in the instruction manual on how to do that. But it's a free and easy option and so always have your camera at the current firm where and so before we move on to the next men, you were going to see if we have any questions about the set up of their camera, any of the shooting options or any questions back from the playback period? No, they're takes to be a moment to get some of those questions in so well, we'll let you get a chance to get those questions when we have a question in the audience is excellent. Okay? Question about flash. Do you know if it controls nikon c l s system? The wireless system? It does not. And so if you have a more advanced wireless system you want to do off camera flashes. It's not the best camera for that at the entry level, you need to do a step up to the d seven thousand. John paul. I know how I would like to know if you could go over the dust off photo or reference again dust off reference photo. I'm not going to go into it completely because it's kind of beyond what most people are going to do here, but I would just give you a bit more information on it cleaning the censor, the automatic censor cleaning, which is one of the things we went through and turned on well, usually get off most of the dust, but if there's something that you just can't get off, you cannot get to some place to clean it off. What you would do is he would shoot a white piece of paper at f twenty two, maybe aperture priority would be a good thing to shoot, so that the camera has a good clean image of what's going on, and then it could record where there is dust on the image. And then what the camera's going to try to do is it's going to try to clone over wherever that dust iss? And so if you have a very dusty sensor, this could be a big problem. And so it's kind of a last ditch effort on dh it's something that if I was, you know, on a hiking trip in the middle of the appalachian trail and I couldn't get to a store and I couldn't clean it out in any way, and I there was a big booger right up in the corner of the thie image. And I didn't want to look at that I would probably enlist that dust off reference photo to help clone over it for all the rest of my pictures so I didn't have to go into photo shop or light room and clone over all those individual images and having said that using light room it's really easy because you can fix it up in one and fix it up in the others it does kind of the same thing so it's not something that can't be fixed later it's just something that maybe is easy to fix in the field than later on cool all those situations uh john question from jodi in the chat room can you give a valuable example of how the range finder option works a couple people we're seconding that right? Well unfortunately I don't have the ability to show what's happening in the viewfinder and let me just just for kicks I'm going to see if I can make it work on the live view monitor which is something that we could d'oh so let me get down to the range finder said it hoped that was in the setup menu wasn't it isn't this exciting what you me go through the menu system here okay there it iss okay so let's turn this on and I'm going to go to live view I'm going to switch to manual focus okay? It does not work in live you uh turn off live you I will explain in detail what's happening what used to be the exposure meter for determining over and under exposure is now lines either going to the left of the zero or to the right of zero and it's basically indicating whether I should turn the arrow to the writer to the left and in fact there's an arrow telling me when I should go left and when I should go right and then when I do get to proper focus things lined up directly under the zero indicator as well as that focus indicator which is that dot on the left hand side of that lcd also comes on so it helps a little bit in manual focusing so if you are going to be manual focusing as they say if you have manual focus lenses or the older autofocus lenses which are not compatible with this camera the a f lenses as opposed to the f s and f islands is then you could use that feature to help manually focus a rather clever device if I must say so myself I think nikon was very good on that nobody else has that judas in the chat room asked auto distortion control works with which lenses auto distortion control will to my understanding on ly work with nikon lenses s so long as it understands the nikon lands it will be able to do the control as far as I know they they may have a limited number of lenses but as far as I know basically nikon knows which lenses they have that has distortion and how much distortion and that's one of the benefits of getting a nikon lenses that information is passed back to the body so the dx lenses hole any leads it is fully compatible with the camera so all of the dx lenses certainly thie f s lenses should do that I haven't tested on all lenses so I may be wrong but I would think any linds that's compatible and it's going to be most effective on wide angle lenses that's where they usually the biggest problem is on those situations thank you a question from sparks tm in the chat room asking how do you create the storage folders how do you create a storage folder? Well let's go in and see if we could do this storage folder so we gotta start folder then we go to the right and let's create a new folder and now I'm not going to write out the whole name but I'll do c l for creative live so there's see ill press ok and then it says down here at the bottom plus for okay so I'm gonna go over here and hit plus and I have now just created a folder called c l so you could call it anything you want you could have multiple folders on there but recall earlier in the playback menu when we selected all folders toe look at if you want you can go back and only select particular folders toe look at of images so you do have to be careful about what you are doing and where you are putting your photos but it's a way for you to organize photos right in camera great. Thank you. Nicholas photo has asked can you switch out the screen with a split focus screen? Uh, no, you can't on some other cameras you can actually take out the focusing screen which you may not be able to see too well in here but there is a focusing screen up there but it is fixed in here and you cannot take it out some higher and cameras you can change for a better manual focusing of cameras. I think we're ready to move on ready to move on. Okay, I do have one question off let's do one more. Okay. Um not sure if he was explained anything about this, but why would you set up your nfl button as a f on a f on? Okay, sew the button on the back of the camera is the auto exposure lock and auto focus lock there's a number of photographers that like to change that to activate the focusing system and to deactivate the shutter release for focusing and this is kind of handy because under normal situations let's say if I was going to take a portrait of a person I would focus the camera right at their eye and get a nice sharp focus and the camera would be locked in but that may not be the composition I want I may want to move the camera off to the side I would then take the picture now if I want to take another picture I have to repeat that process again and every time I take a picture I have to focus lock and move focus lock and move if I was to use the back button to focus I would focus on their eye it would achieve proper focus I would then set up the composition I want and I could proceed to just take pictures as frequently as I wanted without having to refocus every time and so it's a slightly more advanced way of setting up the camera for the beginning photographer I don't know that I would recommend and for the intermediate or advanced I would say take a look at it and play with it and see if you like it it's something that I changed over to but it took me a while to get used to because you have to realize to focus the camera there are two separate buttons which complicates it for some people but it does give you more control over exactly what's happening and when it happens thanks we're ready so here we go we're moving on and we're going to be talking about the retouch menu but not for very long, so let's just play an image back that's a terrible image let's get to a slightly better image it's because I created a new folder and I'm only looking at pictures in that folder so I'm going to try to take a reasonable in focus picture and that's because I'm in auto manual focus okay? So we have our image that we're playing back here if we just press the okay button anytime we're playing an image back it automatically puts that image into the retouch menu. The retouch menu is nigh cons way of providing you some of the features of photoshopped right on your camera this allows you to go in and make adjustments and changes to your photograph. You know if you really want to make adjustments to your photograph, I highly recommend a program like photoshopped or adobe light room because I think you could do a much better job with more control over it. But if you want to you can do it right here in your camera and we're going to kind of keep this section kind of short because there's a lot we can dive into but most people are downloading their images and working on a computer through them so in the retouch menu you can add that delighting after the fact, which is basically brightening the shadows, you can go in and you can individually fix red eye problems. You can trim images if you want if you want to slightly crump crop them now, when you do something like this trim image, you're not actually damaging the original image. What it's doing is it's creating a copy of that image, whether it's a raw image or a jape, eh? Hey, and you're working on that copy then so that the original image is not harmed in any way the same thing with monochrome, you can take a color picture, you could make a black and white and you'll end up with both versions. If you do it here in the retouch menu, you can add in a number of different filter effects, you can fix some color balance issues. They're just they filled this chuck full with all sorts of features that I've never used. A lot of people don't because they use their computer for you could make a small picture that's easy, tio email small file size you can do an image overlay where you basically take two images and you put him on top of one another. I think this is something that works much better in programs afterwards, but it's not something you can do in light room, for instance if you want, you can take a raw image and you could make a j peg out of it for eazy e mail, you could dio some automatic quick retouching, let the camera figure out what it thinks needs to be done to an image. You can straighten the horizon if you want, and you can also do the distortion control after the fact you don't have a fish islands, you don't have to buy one, you could do a fake fish eye right there in the camera looks a little goofy in my opinion, but you know it's there and it's free, you could do a color outline it's ah, style effect that you might achieve in photoshopped you, khun, do a perspective control. If you shoot up towards a building, you could do a perspective control right in camera. You can do even a miniature fake effect, which throws certain things out of focus to make it looks like a miniature photograph, you can edit your movie, you, khun trim the beginning and the end of it, and then you could do a performed after compare of some of the images that you've been playing with, and so these are things that are of much more importance to somebody who doesn't have a computer for everyone else, all of these things can be done later in better processing program but gives you the options if you still want to get in to do that and finally you have recent cities if you want to go back and just quickly find what was it that I was just working on? You could just go to the recent settings part and you can look exactly what you have been playing with in their most recently chances are in most of the men you you're only going to be using a few things three, four, five things on a regular basis so if you just go to the recent settings, you'll probably find whatever it is that you use the most and so that ends our walk through the menu, and I guess I will just take a pause here again for a moment to see if there's any questions before we move on to camera operation. I have a question from sebastian uh, is it possible to keep the mere locked during that time lapse in order to reduce vibrations? Maybe down on this, who know this camera does not have time lapse. Okay? And so not an applicant ble question I guess anything else? Well, I had a question before last question break, which was when shooting rod does it matter that the color space it's set to s rgb or adobe rgb or doesn't only matter for j peg format if you set it to raw, oh, that's, a good question. I'm pretty sure it's going to be grabbing the larger color space it's, one of those things that I did it specifically memorize out of the instructions I memorized, like one hundred fifty pages in the instruction manual and that's, one of the pages. I did it on ly one hundred fifty pages. I'm totally joking. I do actually have some sort of life out of this. When you are captured, when you were in raw, you are capturing as much data as possible, so I am pretty sure that that just applies to the j pick processing of the image.
Ratings and Reviews
a Creativelive Student
Wow! Amazing course. I started learning photography on my own about 6 months ago. I read many blogs and tutorials and watched a lot of you tube videos. I then decided to buy Johns Intro to Digital Photography course. It's an excellent class and I was learning so much, but having still having trouble understanding how I could translate what I was learning into taking great pictures with my camera. I read my user manual a few times and still had a lot of questions. I was really hesitant to buy this course because I am cheap. Lol. I thought I should b able to learn everything using my FREE user manual. I am so glad I decided to buy the class. Everything finally makes sense. He even gave examples of pictures and showed how he would set up this camera to get a good shot. John is an excellent teacher. Worth every penny.
a Creativelive Student
Wonderful resource! I'm a brand new photographer, with a brand new 3300 that I bought because I decided that if I was ever going to get the most out of my point & shoot, I would have to learn to use a "grown up" camera. That seems backwards, I know, but there don't seem to be classes that help a person go beyond p &; s. Since I'm new to photography in general, I found the pace to be super fast - thank goodness I could yell "wait!" at the computer then rewind! The operational section was extremely useful. Being able to practice resetting the various elements was exactly what I needed. I do wish that I'd watched the 3300 update before watching the rest of the episodes. The functionality of the newer model was just different enough to make me want to pull out my hair. What dial? What button? So that would be my tip: if you have a 3200 or 3300, watch that segment first and maybe make a note of the changes so you don't go mad during certain portions of the course. Otherwise, it was great, and I so appreciate the fact that I'll be able to go back and review sections whenever I want. Now it';s off to the basic photography class! Thanks, CreativeLive!
I'm an amateur photographer. I decided to upgrade from my iPhone and point and shoot camera. I bought the Nikon D3300. I then found John's class on the D3300. His easy to follow course walked me step by step and button by button around and in my new camera. It was worth the money. His tips, tricks, and hidden gems took me from auto to the big 4-manual, aperture, shutter, and programming! Wow. With my new understanding of the camera, my pictures improved with each shoot. Practice makes better...but it was the confidence John gave me to go out and use the entire camera that is making me a better storyteller. This course is a must view for all new Nikon D3300 camera owners! Thank you John for a great learning experience!