Custom Menu: Color White Balance & Record/Erase
Custom Menu: Color White Balance & Record/Erase
10. Custom Menu: Color White Balance & Record/Erase
Introduction & Basic Controls07:14 2
Top Deck: Mode Dial18:31 3
Top Deck: Other Functions13:56 4
Back Side Features30:24 5
Left Side-Right Side-Bottom-Card Reader-Front-Lenses08:00 6
Shooting & Playback Menu21:47 7
Custom Menu: AF/MF & Button/Dial12:21 8
Custom Menu: Release & Display/PC15:13
Custom Menu: Exp/ISO & Flash08:43 10
Custom Menu: Color White Balance & Record/Erase06:55 11
Customer Menu: Movie Mode, Built in EVF, Utility, & Setup Menu13:45 12
Custom Menu: Color White Balance & Record/Erase
Quality, color, and white balance, the G collection. So setting the image quality. You can set up predefined settings for JPEG image quality here. Normally, we're just gonna choose the largest fine quality, but you can go in and set various parameters on this if you have smaller-sized needs. You could adjust the total number of pixels you're getting on middle and smaller-sized JPEGs if you wanted to meet a very specific pixel dimension. Most people will never need this. Shading composition. And so in this case, let me give you a little visual example. Some lenses have a little bit of vignetting, or shading, or darkening of the corners, to them. The camera knows which lenses have this problem, typically lenses that open up very wide open, and can correct for them automatically in the camera. But some people wanna leave the lenses do exactly as they normally do. Once again, this is an image manipulation system feature that is not going to affect raw images. So your basic user, yeah, it's...
kind of a nice feature to turn on. The more advanced user probably wants to get the straight information off of the lens. Color, we're gonna have the white balance settings which we have seen in other places on the camera, notably the super control panel. If you want to tweak the white balance, you're not happy with the exact settings on it, you can take all of the white balance settings and you can tweak all of 'em to a little bit warmer or cooler if you want, or you can go in and individually choose one of 'em and make 'em a little bit warmer or darker. And so if you're not getting the white balance settings that you like, and they seem to be a little bit off for you, they are customizable, but this is something that most people are probably not gonna want to get into changing. When you correct for incandescent, or tungsten light bulbs, it sometimes over-corrects and just seems a little too neutral, because those lights do have a certain amount of warmth to 'em. And so if you do wanna keep just a little bit of that warmth, which is often nice in a photograph, I recommend leaving this on. It gives a nice, good feeling in the photograph. In other cases, you need to be very cold and clinical and accurate about things. In which case, you might wanna turn this off. Flash plus white balance. In this case, when you put a flash on, the camera will automatically switch the white balance for you, which is something I think an average user might really like, which is why I would recommend white balance auto so the camera automatically switches the white balance for you. The more advanced user may not want the camera going in and switching the white balance. They may have it set to get a particular look that they want, which is why I have it turned off for the more advanced user. You might be filtering your flash, for instance. Don't want to change it. The color space is the range of colors that you are shooting in. If you shoot raw images, you are gonna be shooting in a Adobe RGB color space. When you shoot JPEG, you can shoot one of two different color spaces. And I always like to recommend the largest color gamut so that if you wanna do printing, you have as much information to work with as possible. Alright, moving into the next grouping, H. Recording and erasing. So a question to think about is, how many button presses do you want to press to delete a photograph? Currently on the camera, you have to press three. You have to press the garbage can button, you have to confirm that you wanna delete something, and then say that it's okay to delete it. If you want to, you can delete it with one press of the garbage can. And that is a little bit too quick and easy for me, so I don't recommend this. You're gonna see another recommendation in just a moment where we can fix this problem. When you delete an image that was shot with raw plus JPEG, if you're shooting both file types at the same time, do you want to just erase the JPEG, or just the raw, or the raw and the JPEG? And my guess is that you're gonna probably want to erase both of 'em if you don't want the image. But you can select as need be. The camera has a way of automatically creating file names for the pictures as you take them, and it uses a numbering system that'll go up to 10,000. If you want to reset that numbering system back down to one, you can, but I would probably just leave this on auto so it's doing its automatic count and you're less likely to have file numbers that are overlapping real close together. You can go in and change the filename of your camera, whether you are shooting sRGB or Adobe RGB, you can go in and you can change the first letters of the filename, for instance, to your company name or your initials. And so it'd immediately identify those images as yours. Priority set. Normally, the default priority on the camera is when you press the delete button, it assumes that you made a mistake, which is why you need to confirm that you wanna delete the picture, and then delete the picture. Which means every time you delete a picture, it takes three button presses to do so. If you change the priority set to yes, when you press the garbage can button, all you have to hit is OK to delete the picture. And I think two button presses is the correct number of button presses to delete any particular photo. I think three is too many, and one is too few and too easy to accidentally have happen. So I think this is a better way of deleting your images. If you are gonna do printing from the camera, you would probably wanna get this set at 300dpi. That's usually kind of the defact printing standard that most people use. You can set it up or below that if necessary, but that's one of the most popular. This is pretty cool. You can go in and add your name, your email information, your company information, your artist name into the camera itself. And this is good for metadata information. It adds your name to the data that gets attributed to all of your photographs going along in the future. I think it's also kinda good for security reasons. If you were to lose your camera and you needed to identify that it was your camera, you could tell the person go into the menu system, and you will see your name in the camera right there. And so, if it got lost and somebody wanted to be honest and return the camera to you, this is a way that they could get in contact with you.
Ratings and Reviews
Greetings I joined the Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark II Fast Start class under Mr. Greengo. I have been using this camera for about 7 months and thought I could handle it well. This class taught me so many aspects of the camera from the word go. Very clear concise but illuminating with well placed illustrations and photos for easy understanding by all. Mr Greengo's English was very precise and clear even though he had to speak fast to cover all of the important aspects within a set time. The advice pass over was clearly from a person who was a master of his subject. I enjoyed the class very much and have signed up for more classes on Creativelive and photography my the same instructor. Well done Sir and thank you for your good advice. I recommend this class to all who have decided to reward themselves with this little miracle camera this Christmas.
a Creativelive Student
John is one of my favorite instructors and I really enjoyed this class. Just got this camera after Christmas and I'm loving it so far and can't wait to get out and use it more. Love Creativelive and thank you for all the wonderful classes!
Using the camera for a few weeks before jumping in really helped me to understand all the instruction. Based on the course, I feel much more comfortable with deciding which functions I will use and which to forget about, at least for now. Based on my utilization of the many lessons, I feel that the content was just about right for me. The instructor used good judgement when determining how much time to spend on every element. The parts that he spent less time discussing was still enough information for a student to learn on their own (homework is good!). Going back into the lessons to review an area has been very easy. I am sure I will be accessing this course for some time. There were a few areas that didn't seem to match up with my camera, but I plan to do some investigating into software version differences and what I may have done incorrectly before I jump to whiplash causing conclusions. The "Fast Start" title bothered me at first. I have seen presentations that are called tutorials which appeared to be simply sales hype. Based on my experience, you have a winner. I hope that I can find additional courses from this group that are of interest to me. Thank you for all the work that you put into this presentation, Raymond Bohn A Greatful old film guy