Olympus® OM-D E-M10 Mark II Fast Start

 

Olympus® OM-D E-M10 Mark II Fast Start

 

Lesson Info

Custom Menu: Release & Display/PC

Alright, we're into C, Release, okay, so Release Priority in the Single-shot mode and so you can change this around if you want, this right now, if you leave this Off, it means the images must be in focus for you to take pictures in the Single-shot Focusing mode and I would recommend keeping it there. In the Continuous Focusing mode, it is in a Release Priority, but this one is turned On and so for sports photography, it's a little bit more natural to be able to take photos any time you need to, even though the camera may think it's slightly out of focus, and so oftentimes for action photography, timing is more important than perfection and so this allows you to shoot photos at any time that you want to. The camera has a Low Speed and a High Speed Frame Rate, that you can use in the Continuous shooting, currently Low is programmed at four frames per second, you could make it a little bit slower of you want to and the High Speed can be adjusted, it's eight and a half frames and you can ...

change it, if need be from there. You can also change the Heart, which if you recall correctly, it is the Silent Shutter, so that's the electronic first and second curtain shutters, you can change the frames per second, usually I just leave these topped out, unless there's a specific reason why that number is not working for me and you can get up to 11 frames per second with that electronic shutter in the High Speed frames per second. The Image Stabilizer, this is something we looked at before in the Super Control panel and so you can change the way the camera is doing image stabilization between still shots and movie shots, I think the stabilization on this camera works really, really well and I generally leave it turned on, whenever I'm doing handheld photography. Continuing to scroll down, we have an Image Stabilization mode, in some cases, if you are working with a really solid tripod, where you don't need stabilization, it might be better to turn it off just to make sure the sensor is not moving in any manner, but I haven't had too much of a problem shooting with this on from a tripod. Half Way Release With IS and so when you press halfway down on the shutter release, do you want to see the effect of image stabilization? I prefer it on, because it helps me compose images, it just seems more natural, but if you don't like it and you only want it to turn on when the picture is actually being taken, you would turn it Off, but I think On is a good general purpose place for this to be. So there are lenses that you can get, that have image stabilization in them and the camera has its own stabilization system and by turning this on, it lets the camera defer to the lens's stabilization system, which is usually considered superior to the ones that are built into the cameras, and so this is in general a good idea to leave it turned on, so if the lens does have IS, it'll use that system, rather than the one in the camera. The Release Time-Lag, I would leave it Normal, you could put this at Short and at very fast shutter speeds, it would decrease the lag-time in taking the shot, but by leaving this on Normal, it is a consistent lag-time, no matter what shutter speed you are using and so I think consistency is better, rather than an all out performance, that varies according to where you set the camera. Okay, we are moving ourself into D for Displays. So if you're gonna hook your camera up to a TV, you may need to adjust the HDMI settings, the camera will probably figure it out for you, but if you need to jump in and change it, this is where you would do it and you can also have the TV's computer control the Forward and Back function of a slideshow, if you turn the HDMI Control on, if you don't hook your camera up to the TV, you won't need to worry about these at all. Video Out controls the signal in which video is sent out of the camera, here in North America, the United States, Canada, we use the NTSC system, in Europe a lot of countries will use the PAL system, so that'll be appropriate to whatever country you happen to be in. So in the Control Settings, you're gonna be controlling some of the displays that you see available to you, as you hit the Info button and so you can go through these and check off all the boxes that you like or do not want to see and so we have our Live Guide, some of you might say, "I never need to use that," go uncheck that box, the Live Control is like the Super Control panel, but it still allows you to see the image, whilst still being able to make those adjustments off on the sides and on the bottom and you're most likely gonna wanna keep that Super Control panel active, 'cause there's a lot of features, that you can get to and control in there. The Info Settings will allow us to see which groups of information in the various Playback modes and in the Live View modes and so once again, this is a checkbox area, where you can check off all the boxes that you like, kind of as a default thing, I would go through and check on all those boxes, because you're not gonna see them, until you press the actual Info button and cycle through. Display grid, there are different ways to display a grid for composing your images, you've got five different choices, normally I would like to leave as little clutter on my image as possible, so I would leave this turned Off, but there are certain cases, where I do use these grids, I use the cross-hairs sometimes, when I wanna make sure that something is exactly dead center in the frame, I do like the rule of thirds, though that's actually more of a golden mean, that second one, than the rule of thirds, but sometimes people like those for compositional reasons or making sure their horizons are level. Picture Mode Settings, we've seen these before, if you wanna adjust them, you can do it here, but there are several other places you can do it throughout the camera as well. Histogram Settings, histogram is showing you a graph of the brightness of the image from bright to dark on a scale of zero to 255. If you want to clip the highlights and the shadows in your histogram, you can do so by adjusting where the histogram is showing you this information, in general I don't think anyone should touch this, but it is there for somebody who needs to. Working our way through it, we have our Mode Guide and so this is where this little helpful window pops up on you as you're going around and you can turn it Off here in the camera and I wanna show you something on my camera, do a little live demo here for you and so let me get out of the Wireless mode, that we were last in and so as you go into the menu system, one of the things you'll find is if you go around, this little help window pops up and it's like right over what you're trying to read and rather than going in to where we were just at in the menu system, if you don't like that, just hit the Info button and that'll turn that little window off, if you have a question about something, "What is this doing?" this will give you just a little bit of information and so it's kind of helpful at first, but after a while, it gets a little annoying, 'cause it's just right on top of other things, that you're looking for and so just hitting that Info button on and off is a quick way to turn that, so that you can see it or not see it, but if you wanna jump into the menu system, that's what the Mode Guide is doing. Live View Boost, if you leave this Off, it is going to reflect the exact exposure that you're gonna get, if you put it on On1, it's gonna try to give you the best viewing image possible, but it's not gonna reflect the exposure that you're getting, so you could be wildly underexposed or wildly overexposed, it's giving you a great view of that subject and you're gonna have to pay very close attention to the light meter in the bottom right-hand corner of the viewfinder, because it may look perfectly good to you with your eyes, but if that light meter is three stops underexposed, that means your picture is going to be very underexposed and so I prefer to leave this turned Off, so that it reflects the actual exposure, that I'm going to get and the time that you might want to use that On1 option is if you are in a studio working with flash photography. Next up is a Frame Rate, you have a choice of Normal and High, High will give you a little bit better viewing experience, less lag-time as you move the camera from side to side and so it's very good when you are shooting sports and you are framing back and forth, but because of the high frame rate, it doesn't do real well under low light conditions and so if you do work under low light conditions, you would probably wanna set this to the Normal setting, but for most normal light, higher action situations, the High Frame Rate will get you a little better view in the viewfinder. Art Live View Mode and so on this one, when you're shooting with the Art filters, the question is do you wanna see what the Art Mode looks like in the viewfinder or do you just wanna see a normal view, but have the Art Mode recorded? And so it kind of depends on how much that Art view interferes with your viewing, composing and photographing, normally I like to see exactly what I'm going to get, which is mode one, you see exactly what you're going to get, in mode two, it doesn't show you what you're gonna get, but you get it later on and that might be helpful for people, who are distracted by the heavy art filter that might be applied at that time. Flicker Reduction, working under certain types of lights, you might get some flicker in the EVF or on the LCD on the back of the camera, the Auto mode should solve that problem, but if it's not working, you can manually set it to either 50 or 60 Hertz or turn it off if necessary. So the Live View Close Up Mode and so in this case, the camera will automatically zoom in and hold a high magnification, in whether, let me get this straight here, the half press on the shutter will cancel the zoom or do you want it to stay there all the time? And so this will control that aspect. Next up is your Depth of Field Lock and so you can reprogram your camera to do a Depth of Field preview from one of the different function buttons on the camera and so if you wanna have this put in here, you can do so and just turn it on for a particular feature and so if you leave this in the Off position, it's a press and hold option on that function, if you put it in the On, you'll press it once to turn it on and press it again to turn it off, so if you wanted to leave that Depth of Field on for a long period of time, it would be better to leave this Depth of Field Lock in the On position, so it's locking that Depth of Field engaged. The Peaking Settings, and so we looked at some of the Peaking, where it shows you the areas that things are in focus, well, you can really customize the way that it looks with different colors, with different intensities and with different image brightnesses and so this is something that you'll have to tweak according to your own needs, if you use this feature. So the Back LCD, how long do you like it to stay on before it automatically goes to sleep? 30 seconds is the standard, it's a pretty good amount of time and if you wanna adjust, you may do so. Now the camera has a couple of different Sleep modes and so for instance, the LCD will go to sleep after 30 seconds, the camera will go to a Sleep mode after about a minute, where it kind of shuts down into a pretty good nap mode, you might say and it takes a shutter release, a half press on the shutter release to wake the camera, this is a reasonable amount of time, but you can change it, if you need to, but then it will go into the more comatose state after a certain period of time, so after five minutes, what happens is the camera completely shuts down, no button press will turn it back on, other than flipping the camera off and turning it back on again and so there's kind of a light cat nap, there's a deep sleep and then it's full comatose, where you need to turn it off and back on again, so three different levels of napping you might say. Next up is the Beep, the sound the camera makes, when it focuses, this is always in my mind a little annoying and so this is something I would recommend that you turn off, please, out of the kindness of others. Connecting the camera up to a computer, you will be using a USB connection, if you are gonna be downloading software, I know that when I've upgraded the firmware on this camera, I have needed to come into this mode and changed it to the MTP setting, so that it would properly communicate with my computer, so that I could download the new firmware for the camera. Back at the beginning of the class, we talked about the Multi Function Settings, which is on the Function2 button on the top of the camera currently and you can select which options you have available to you up there, for instance, I don't change the Image Aspect on my camera pretty much ever and so I might uncheck that box in there, if you know that there's something that you never ever use. Alright, Menu Recall, if you have it set on Recall, the camera will go back to the last menu that you were working with, rather than going back to the first item at the very beginning of the menu, very convenient if you're going in and out of the menu from time to time.

Class Description


Dense technical manuals make for a terrible first date. Get the most out of your new Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark II with this complete step-by-step walkthrough of the camera’s features. Join expert photographer John Greengo for a fast-track introduction, and unlock your camera’s full potential.

In this fast start, you’ll learn:

  • How to use the autofocus system
  • How to use and customize the menus
  • How to use the Mark II’s video capabilities
This fast start includes a complete breakdown of your camera’s exposure, focus, metering, video and more. John will also explain how to customize the Mark II’s settings to work for your style of photography.