Preparing the Waistband

 

The Vintage Pocket Skirt

 

Lesson Info

Preparing the Waistband

So now that we've sonar skirt together, we can start to work on our waistband. We're going to create the top fold of the waistband by pressing with our iron. I'm going to start out with my front waistband here if I open it up so that the interfacing is facing up at me like this. What I want to do is folded in half of the long way. I want these long edges to match up and I'm going to hold it in place. Well, I grabbed my iron and smooth out this top edge to make it as even as I can, this top fold is going to end up being the top of the front of your waistband. So it's a good idea to get it as even is you can a nice crease, same thing for the bottom. This is going to open up like this remember the back of the waistband is longer than the front of the waist band, so if they don't match that's cool press that fold out and then the same thing, I'm going to fold this long edge up to match this one it's going to feel a little different because this one doesn't have any interfacing in it, you'l...

l notice that the front waistband is a little more stiff. And that's good because we wanted to stay nice and flat on your body when you're wearing it and this one doesn't have any interfacing in it because it's going to have elastic in it way don't want it to be too lumpy lining those edges up in pressing them and now we're going to so the front of the waist band to the back of the waistbands so just like our skirt is now sewn into a tube, I'm going to say the waistband into a tubas well, I'll start out on one side. This is my friends being soon to my back waistband, right sides together I'm getting match up these notches here and put some pins in along this short edge you want to do this with the waistbands unfolded? We just pressed this nice crease in so unfolded and have it laying flat to pennant and stitch it a couple of pins to hold it in place and I'm going to sew it up my fifteen line or my five eighths of an inch mark on my machine, I'll snip my feds and then I'm going to do the same thing on the other side, opening it up so it's nice and flat lining up these notches and before I press the steam allowances open I'm going to trim the seam allowances in half this waistband when we're finished it's going to be folded in on itself, so this seem allowance is going to be covered up. I don't need to edge finish it, but I do want to get some of the bulk out of there, so I'm going to trim just like this to cut off about half of that seem allowance, I don't need my notch anymore, so I contribute right off same thing on the side and then over to the iron to open the steam allowances up and press them flat. This is the seam allowance that we need to press open, so I'm gonna press it open with my fingers first just to make it lay a little flat and then with my iron right down on top of it, that means I've pressed this crease out a little bit, so I'm just going to re fold it, making sure that seem allowance stays open and press that crease right back in almost invisible same thing on the other aside, press that similar ones open and then fold it to repress that top edge and there's only a few more steps before I can. So this to the top of my skirt so you'll notice if you unfold your waistband, there's one edge that has notches on it, and then there's one edge that doesn't have any notches. We're going to use this notched edge to sew it to the skirt to make sure it matches up where it needs to match up, but this other edge is going to end up being on the inside of the skirt. Basically we're going to wrap the top of the skirt up in this waistband, so this is going to be sewn on the inside. I need to trim a little bit of this fabric off and I need to do an edge finish before I can sew it to my skirt, so I'm going to grab my chalk pencil and my ruler and I'm gonna line the waistband up so it's nice and smooth and even basically right on top of itself there, I'm going to use my ruler in my chalk to mark a line a quarter of an inch up from the edge on the side that doesn't have any notches, so I'm using my ruler. I'm going to little squares down that's one quarter of an inch, making sure that the edge of my fabric is nice and even with that line on my ruler holding on tight to my ruler and then going back and forth lightly with my chalk to make a mark that I can see on my fabric, I want to do this all the way around the unnatural edge of the waistband, so once you're doing one side, flip it around and do the same thing on the other side. This is definitely a time where you want to be careful and its precise as you, khun b, we don't want to end up cutting too much of this off you and me, and then you can use your scissors separate the two layers of fabric so the notches are on one side away from where you're cutting and hold on to that a notched edge that has the chalk mark on it snipper right up to the chalk mark and then carefully cut around the bottom edge of this voice band. I like to cut just underneath the chalk mark, leaving a little bit of chalk on my fabric as I'm going all the way around this edge to trim this quarter of an inch off. I need to finish the edge on this waistband that I just trimmed, so I'm going to use a stitch on my machine called a three step zigzag, sometimes it's called a multi stitch zigzag, and if you are unfamiliar with this stitch, you can look in your sewing machine manual to see what stitch it is on your machine and how to set a for it. Basically, the three step zigzag is three little stitches going in each direction. As opposed to one large stitch that are regulars exact does when you're sewing on one single layer of fabric it tends to lay a little flatter so that's what we're going to do around the edge here all the way around the edge of the waistband that we cut the's seem allowances we want to make sure that they stay spread open and sometimes your machine will push the seam allowance going in one direction or the other so if you like you can put a pin in just like that to prevent that from being pushed around and to keep it laying flat it doesn't really matter where you start and since we're going around in a circle you can pull the accessory tray off your sewing machine so I'm going to start right here on the side scene you want to get the visa of the zigzag later on the right as close to the edge of the fabric is you can sometimes this is called an overcast stitch because we're going slightly over the edge of the fabric to finish it we're not going to be trimming anymore fabric off so it's safe to get really close to the edge of the fabric I'm going to sew this stitch all the way around the edge of the waistband that I just trimmed just make sure you're only selling and that one single edge you'll be able to see it really well on the interface side.

Class Description

In The Vintage Pocket Skirt, Shaerie Mead gives you step-by-step instructions for making a simple, yet stylish skirt.


Shaerie, of Sew L.A., has been teaching people how to sew since 2005. In this class, she’ll show you how to make one of her most popular garments. You’ll learn about:

  • Reading and preparing the paper pattern
  • Sewing pockets and the skirt body
  • Interfacing, sewing, and attaching the waistband
  • Finishing and hemming the skirt
Even if you have never sewn before, you’ll be able to follow along. Shaerie will explain sewing basics and she’ll help you make sense of the paper patterns that are part and parcel of garment-making.

Impress people with a handmade skirt that looks complicated but is actually pretty easy to construct with tips from The Vintage Pocket Skirt with Shaerie Mead.

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