Multiple Exposure And High Dynamic Range
And so multiple exposures opens up a whole different creative world of photography. And there's people who specialize in multiple exposure photography. It's something I only dabble in but can be kinda fun and a different way to look at the world. There are a couple of fine tune controls in here. One is the number of shots. You can shoot two, three, four, five up to nine in this case. And then very interestingly we have the overlay mode. And we have four options here so I wanted to do a multiple exposure test using these different options which I think has yielded some interesting results. And so once again I'm just in the studio and I have chosen a white background. I have a white object, a black object and a colored object. And so I was moving these objects between the left side and the right side so that we could see both at the same time. And I am also gonna be doing this test with a dark background because that's gonna really change things whether you have a light background or a d...
ark background. So the first example here is with the additive feature. And so I've taken the white background and I've just added two exposures together and it has the equivalent of being 1/60 of a second at f/ and we do not see our subjects very well because our white background has been doubled and become very bright. If I used the average it lightens up my subject so I can see them a little bit more clearly. With the lighten object we can see the white cup in front of the dark background and notably here the darken object what it does is the dark objects have priority over the light subjects and so that dark lens really stands out in front of that light background. And so in this particular case the darken looks like a very good choice. But let's try it with a black background and in this case you'll notice the lighten where bright objects have priority is the one that came out most clear because it's giving white objects a priority over their dark background. And so if you do wanna play around with multiple exposures you're gonna wanna play around with some of these blending modes to figure out which one works best for you. And here is the examples again with the four different options and the different types of backgrounds. So generally you wanna have pretty clean backgrounds when you're shooting multiple exposures. You wanna be very careful about shooting with cluttered environments. And so another example of the average and the additive. And so the more skilled photographer will probably want add because they'll be figuring out their exposure individually. If you're just playing around with this you can let the camera figure things out for you with the average option. And so enjoy having some fun with multiple exposures. Next up is the HDR mode in the camera. The camera has a built in HDR system. There are other programs that, I will be honest with you, do a better job and give you more control over shooting HDR but I wanted to see what can you do in camera. And so in this situation I wanted to find a place that was dark and bright at the same time and so I'm in a bike tunnel. And I wanted to shoot with jpegs as well as many different options in the HDR mode as well as shooting in raw because there are all different ways of doing this. And so each of these is gonna have slightly different looks to them. As we go up from one, two to three EV the camera is rescuing more and more shadow detail. There is also a low smoothing, normal and high smoothing option which is holding back those highlights and giving us more information in the shadows. And then I wanted to do what I would normally do as a photographer and that is, I'll just shoot a raw photo, I'll take it into whatever post production system I wanna use and I'm gonna pull back the highlights and I'm gonna pull back the shadows and I'm not saying this photo looks good but it has the detail of those shadows and that highlight information. And comparing four of those different options one of the things I'm looking at in this case is how blown out are the highlight pixels. And you'll see that the raw is holding back that is collecting that overexposed bright information better than any of the HDR options and definitely better than the jpeg option where it's completely blown out. And so if you're trying to get the most data from a particular scene, I think shooting raw is probably the best way but you can play around with the HDR settings and see if they work for you. I'm just not a big fan of that. So normally you're gonna leave this on, off excuse me. You can either leave it on for just one group of photos or leave it on because you're continuously shooting in this mode for a long period of time. The exposure differential is gonna be something you adjust according to how bright and dark the area is, the more extreme it is the higher that number will be. And then there is also a smoothing option on how that information smooths out from the bright area to the dark area. You may need to play around here to find one that fits your taste. But normally that is something that's gonna be left off.
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