Custom Menu C1 & C2

 

Olympus® OM-D E-M1 Mark II Fast Start

 

Lesson Info

Custom Menu C1 & C2

Okay, C1 stands for Release, Drive Mode, and Image Stabilization. First up, Release Priority when it's in the single focusing system. And so normally, when you are in AF, or SAF, Single Auto Focus, the release priority is turned off, which means the image has to be in focus in order for you to shoot a photo. This is kind of a safety put on the camera so that you aren't shooting out-of-focus pictures. If you wanted to, you could turn this on, and you would shoot out-of-focus pictures if you wanted to. Most people don't want it, but it's a possibility. In the C mode, things are slightly different. When the camera is continually focusing, ideally, it'd be nice to have this turned off so the camera only allowed you to shoot a photo when things are in focus, however, the problem is, is that things move so rapidly, the camera is always trying to catch up to be in focus for the shot, and so there are some sports shooters that don't mind turning this feature on and allowing them to get occasio...

nal images that are less than perfect in focus. Now, they might be really close, and they might be usable in focus, but they might not be perfect in that case. And so, if you wanna get as many frames per second as possible, you would leave this turned on. If the priority is really making sure that you're getting pictures that are in focus, leave this turned off. But be aware that you'll be limited on the number of shots that you can get per second. Alright, so you can go in, and you can customize a number of settings for the continuous low setting, as well as the continuous high setting, which is coming up after this. And I'm not gonna tell you about the continuous high settings, 'cause they're the same as the continuous low settings. So we're gonna go through this just once. There of course are the Anti-Shock, remember that's the diamond, and the heart is the Silent mode. And so, we have the Continuous mode, we have the Silent Continuous, and the Pro-Capture mode, which each have their own customization. So, for the Standard Motor Drive and the Anti-Shock, which is the first electronic shutter release mode, you can choose up to 10 frames per second. So, I'm usually the type of person that's gonna wanna choose the max, unless there is a specific reason why I wanna choose something smaller. So that's a good place to start. If you want to, you could put a limiter of 25 so that you could only shoot a burst of 25 images. Some people, they're just a little trigger happy, and they wanna prevent themselves from recording too many images. So you could set that at 25 if you needed to. In the Silent version of continuous shooting, we have some different options in here. We have the maximum frames per second that go up to 18 frames per second, which is quite nice and works very good under most situations. The Frame Counter Limiter, once again, you can leave that turned off, or set that on 25. And then we have the option of Pro-Capture. So this is where the camera shoots images before you press down on the shutter release the entire way. And so, you can choose how many frames per second you're shooting, 10 to 18, and then you can choose the pre-shutter frames. So, how many pictures do you want the camera to store in the buffer, anywhere from zero to 14. I think in most cases you probably want a fair number, anywhere from 10 to 14. It really depends on what you're doing, and how fast you're shooting. This will require a little bit of experimentation on your part, to see what's gonna work best for you. And so, that's how many pictures it stores in the buffer. And then when you actually start shooting, pressing down on the shutter release all the way, do you want it to stop after 25 images, 'cause it's a very short event and you don't want to waste too many photos? Or do you wanna leave it turned off and just let the camera shoot for as many images as it can store in the buffer? And so your needs might vary a little bit. So once again, that is the Pro-Capture mode, where it stores images in the buffer but saves them to the card once you have pressed all the way down on the shutter release. And so all of that is in the low version. That's the low speed version of the motor drive. And so we have the same options in the high speed motor drive, and I'm not gonna go through 'em because I just went through 'em and then all look exactly the same. And so the numbers will be slightly different because you can get up to 60 frames per second in the Pro-Capture mode here, as well as in the Silent mode here. So the numbers will be slightly different, but the thoughts and the settings are basically the same. Alright, next up. Dealing with the Image Stabilizer. You can choose which stabilizer you are using. If it seems familiar, it's because we were talking about this in the section on the Super Control Panel. And so for general purpose S-IS-1 is gonna compensate for most regular handheld movement. If you're doing panning, you might wanna look at the other modes. For image stabilization, the camera is moving the shutter, but it's also trying to shoot photos. And it would like to know what is most important to you for the priority: the frames per second, 'cause you're shooting some action and you may wanna make sure that that action is getting up, or do you wanna make sure that the image stabilization is compensating for the movement that you are doing. And it really depends on what type of action that you are setting. Now, the difference between these two is in the frames per second. Let me check my notes in here. The sensor is not reset to the center, 'cause you can imagine, the sensor's movin' around, and it kinda gets jiggled off to one side, and it would like to get back to the center so that it can do proper stabilization. And so with frames per second, it might do less stabilization, to make sure that you're still getting the frames. And in the IS Priority mode, it will slow down the frames per second so that it can get back to the center of the frame for its maximum stabilization characteristics. Half Way Release. So when you press half way down on the shutter release, do you want the image stabilization to be activated. And most people like this. Some people don't like the look of looking through a camera that is stabilized. It can make 'em dizzy or disorientated. But most people like it. It helps with composition in many cases, and so you'll normally wanna leave this turned on. Lens I.S. Priority. So there are some lenses out there, especially some from Panasonic that you can mount on your camera, and this will use the lens's image stabilization system, rather than the one in the camera. Now, typical, conventional wisdom is that a stabilization system in the lens is gonna be highly refined to that particular lens, and will probably do a better job than a sensor-based stabilization system. And so, you're probably better off letting the lens do its own job. Even though the camera has its own very good stabilization system, it's probably not as good as the one that was designed exclusively for that particular lens. Moving on to letter D, displays, beeps, and PC. So, Control Settings. For the different settings on the mode dial we'll have different options for the types of things that we can view in the camera. So you remember, we have the Live Guide, we have Live Control, the Super Control Panel. Do you wanna be able to turn these things on and off when the camera is in the iAuto mode? I say, yes, keep 'em all on, keep all the options on the table. If you find that you never use these, or they are distracting the way that you work, then you can go in and uncheck the box. But I think it's best to leave these all checked off to start with. And so that was for iAuto, when you're in the program Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority, or Manual modes, do you wanna see the Live Control Panel, or the Super Control Panel, or both? I think they both have uses, so I keep 'em both checked off at first. If you don't like one, uncheck the box. When you are in the Art mode, what will you see there? You have the Art Menu, the Live Control, and the Super Control as well. So you probably wanna be able to see the Art Menu if you're in the Art mode, but the other ones may be an option to turn on and off, depending on what you like or don't like. Next up in the display world, the Info Settings. And so, in here, there's a number of things that are gonna happen when you press the Info. As I like to say, nothing is damaged by pressing the Info button. It's gonna cycle through different things, and it will act differently when you look through the view finder, when you're on the LCD, when you're playing back an image, when you're shooting video and so forth. So, in here, in the Playback mode, there's gonna be various checks. I like to see the image only, because that's clean shot of the image. Overall will give you a little bit of information about the date and time and the file number. The Histogram is gonna give you the histogram, as well as the shutter speed aperture information, as well as a few other settings in the camera. I think that one's important. The Highlight and Sha- (coughs) Excuse me. Highlight and Shadow will show you the ares in either blue or orange that are very bright or very dark. And then the Light Box was that option where you can compare images side by side. I don't use the Light Box very often, but it can be very helpful for checking images for those that have the best and sharpest focus. When you are zoomed in in the Playback option, after you playback an image you can zoom in, and you can choose to see the magnify in frame, and there's a magnify in scroll you can use on the side of the camera, if you like using the touchscreen. If you don't like the touchscreen, you can turn off the Magnify Scroll. And then Select Frame will show you which frame you're on, so that can be very helpful. If you're gonna zoom in on an image, and then you're gonna scroll through, looking at several images to see which one is the sharpest, this will keep you aware of which frame number you are on. And so, by clicking the Info button, you just simply click it again, and it cycles through to the next option. Yes, Drew, got a question? Yeah, the RLS priority S and C are grayed out, why? On their camera, Release Priority? Yeah. Okay, so I think they're jumping back a section, so I'm gonna jump into my camera, and if you guys wanna peek over my shoulder and see what I'm doing, the release priority, I think we were talking about section C. C1. C1, release are grayed out. And so they may have, okay. They clearly have something set on their camera that is limiting them. So they could be in a bracket mode, they could be in a pro-shooting mode, they could be in a high resolution mode, um, what other options. Focus Stacking mode might not allow that. And so there's some sorta conflict. I can't see their camera so I can't answer that. Right. But those are things that will conflict with that operation.

Class Description

We know what it’s like to dive right into taking pictures with your new camera. But reading dense technical manuals can be time-consuming and frustrating. Get the most out of your new Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II with this complete step-by-step walkthrough of the camera’s features. 


Join expert photographer John Greengo for a fast-track introduction, and unlock your camera’s full potential. In this fast start class, you’ll learn: 
  • How to use the exposure system
  • How to customize the camera controls for your needs
  • How to use and customize the menu 

John is a CreativeLive veteran instructor and an experienced photographer. He has extensive experience teaching the technical minutiae that makes any camera an effective tool: aperture, ISO, the Rule of Thirds, and the kinds of lenses you’ll need to suit your camera body. This fast start includes a complete breakdown of your camera’s exposure, focus, metering, video and more. John will also explain how to customize the Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II settings to work for your style of photography.

Reviews

a Creativelive Student
 

This is exactly what I was looking for - I really feel like I'm not able to control my camera, rather than the camera controlling me! :) I really learned a great deal - some of it was a great review, some of it was crucial information that will (hopefully) make me a better photographer. Thanks for a great class, John!!

Spyro Zarifopoulos
 

Great and very informative class.... John has done a fabulous job explaining all the simple and intricate details of the very sophisticated EM1 II. Thank you !!!

Jeff McPheeters
 

I am enjoying the presentation immensely. My first experience with John's classes and he's excellent. It's a no brainer to buy this for anyone using the Olympus E-M1 mk II. I've been using Olympus OM-D bodies since 2012 when they debuted, and have two E-M1 mk1 bodies and just purchased the mk2 model this week. I thought it would be a simple modest upgrade, easy for me to configure, since I feel I'm pretty adept with the mk 1 settings. But I was wrong. This is way more than an upgrade. It's an entirely different camera in many ways and this class has already saved me time in my configuration planning and trying to understand how I'll use this camera alongside my other Mk1 bodies. Thanks for the class. The timing couldn't have been better in my case!