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Fujifilm X-T2 Fast Start

Lesson 24 of 37

Auto Focus and Manual Focus Menus


Fujifilm X-T2 Fast Start

Lesson 24 of 37

Auto Focus and Manual Focus Menus


Lesson Info

Auto Focus and Manual Focus Menus

The next big tab is the auto focus, manual focus, and first up is the focus area. Now, there was a shortcut button on the back of the camera, as well as another access to it in the Q menu, but you can do it here as well. This is kind of a roundabout way to get to it. It's here simply so that you can add that to any one of the function buttons available to the camera of which there are eight different buttons. The auto focus mode, this is where we get to choose single, zone, and wide/tracking point. And so once again, this is better done, this is done with one of the buttons on the top of the camera by default. It is, if I remember correctly, I thought it was the top button. And if I put the camera in auto focus, yes, it is the top button on the back of the camera that is currently programmed to it. And let me just clarify, the focus area, before this was simply choosing about where you wanted the box, moving the box from left to right, and that can normally be done just with the joysti...

ck itself. The AF-C custom settings. Okay, so this is something new for Fuji cameras. It's something similar to Canon, and what Nikon has been doing. And so, when the camera is auto focusing on a moving subject, there is a conflict of interest in a number of things, and it has to do with the speed, and the accuracy, and the focusing points. And, of course you want the camera to focus as fast as possible, but you also want it to be as accurate as possible, and then you have to be aware of, well, which focusing points are you using, and what if something new comes into the frame? And so, they have a number of different scenarios set up in sets one through five. Now, most of the time, you're probably gonna be able to leave it on set one, and be totally fine. Set two tends to ignore obstacles, and so if there's something that occasionally obstructs your subject, like a referee running in front of a field player, then that would be a good option. Changing speeds, how quickly do you want the auto focus system to read back data, and adjust how fast the tracking is going? Can be very important in events where players are stopping, and starting, and changing their speed very quickly. For subjects that are appearing suddenly, we have set four, which will try to track those immediately as possible. And then set five, for erratic movements. And what it's doing, and we're gonna dive in a little bit here. Let's talk about the three parameters that each of these are controlling. The first is the tracking sensitivity, and the question that this is really asking is, do I want to track a new subject? Sometimes yes, you do. If so, you would set it to zero. Sometimes, no, I wanna stick with my original subject. So, if you can imagine focusing on a subject, and a new subject comes into the frame, do you want to focus on that new subject? And so, for tracking a new subject, that might be like a race leader, where you don't care who you're focusing on in the sense of which person, you just wanna focus on who's ever closest to the camera. And so, this might be a good use at the finish line, it's who's ever in first that you wanna get closer to. If you wanna track the established subject, that would be for things like tennis, and butterfly swimming. If you think about tennis, they swing a racket out in front of them. Do you wanna focus on the racket, or do you just wanna stay on the face and torso of the subject? In butterfly swimming, the way that they swim, their hands are out in front of them, and there's a lot of water splashing forward that might catch the auto focus if you set, oh, wait, track this new subject. And so, it really depends on what type of subject you're doing, and these settings, zero, one, through four, is basically just how long a delay before the camera refocuses. If you set it to number one, it's about a quarter of a second delay. If you set it to number two, it's about three quarters of a second delay, number three is about a one second delay, and if you set it to number four, it's about a second and a third before it will refocus on the subject. The next one is speed tracking sensitivity. Question here is, does my subject have a constant speed? So, this is gonna depend on the type of action you're shooting. And so, if a subject is approaching you at a constant speed, then you would say, yes, and have it set to zero. If it's kind of more erratic, you would set to number two. And so, subjects with a fixed speed would be like horse racing, or marathon running. And so, unless the marathon runners are sprinting towards the finish, they're all moving at a very constant speed, and it's not changing very much. Sudden starting or stopping. My favorite example here is the long jump, because if you think about the long jump, they're stopped, they're looking at the runway, they then accelerate to maximum speed, they jump up in the air, and then when they hit the sand, they come to a complete stop. And so, they are accelerating and decelerating very, very quickly, and the camera, when set to number two, is gonna do a better job at adjusting the focus for their changing speeds. The third category is the zone area switching, and the basic question here is, is my subject in the middle of the frame? If you set it to center, it's assuming that your subject is mostly in the middle of the frame, which is how you're gonna compose most easy to frame type subjects. No, if it's a bit more erratic type movement. And so, if it's coming closer to the camera, the camera will actually track the focusing points as that subject moves across the frame. And so, you'll have to see which one works best for the types of photography that you do. And so, you can set one through five, and it's kind of all set up for you for those situations, but if you want to do a custom setting, you could go into six, and you can custom set the camera with those parameters. And let me do a little demo on that, because some of you may not be 100% comfortable with that. And so, let's go into the auto focus C custom settings. And so, you can choose one, two, three, or five, three, four, or five. Those are preset meals, you don't get to change any of the hors d'oeuvres on this one, but on number six, you get a wrench down here, and if, let's see, come on, and where is my adjust? And so, you can adjust these by going up and down, and you can move the front dial to select different options. If you wanna get into the details, you can press okay, and it will give you some additional information about it. I like that they have graphics, I'm not a total fan of their graphics, because it's not totally clear what it's doing, but here you can select. If you said, you know, sets the tracking sensitivity on the subject, and so if you wanted to set that on three, you'd set it on three, okay. And then you can come down to the next one, and you can hit okay, and maybe you wanna set this one at one, as far as the acceleration. You can come down to the final one, and choose whether you wanna have it in the center, auto, or in the front. And so, maybe, I always wanna catch something in the front of it. And so, you can get in there, and then hit okay, and then go back, and make sure that you have six set. You can adjust those as you need to be in here. I have not custom shot, or custom set the camera for every scenario imaginable, and the way you shoot, what lens you shoot, where you shoot from, your point of view all has an impact on how you might make those settings. And so, I apologize that I cannot get this set up perfectly for you, but there are so many different options for all the different activities out there. For right now, set it to set one, see how good a job it does, and then if you're not getting consistent, sharp results, try to figure out which one of those settings would you most help you in changing, and then go down to set six, or set one of the other, two through five settings, and if those don't work, then I guess you would go to set six. So, hopefully that explains what's going on here. Fortunately, most people aren't probably gonna need to go beyond set one. Auto focus point display kinda gives you a different version on the screen of how much information you see. If you turn this off, it's gonna leave just the brackets around the edges of where you focus. Using the zone, it's gonna use a bunch of boxes to help give you a better idea of where the focusing points are. As we go through the menu settings, my recommendations typically are to have the camera set to the highest quality, with the least amount of clutter possible, and so that's why I'm recommending the off. It's possible you may wanna turn it on, but I think in general, turning things off so they don't clutter up the screen is a good idea. The number of focusing points, we mentioned this early on, you do have up to 325 individual points that you can change. You can set it to 91, and you'll have a little easier time navigating left, right, and up and down, a little less flicking of that focus stick on the back of the camera. When you get to the zone area, or the wide tracking area, the camera's gonna have the same performance. It's still gonna use those other points in between, it's just not allowing you to select them as your primary point. Pre-auto focus will auto focus the lens before you press down on the shutter release. This may help you focus a little bit more quickly, because as you hold the camera up to your eye, it's already starting to focus. It is gonna use more battery power, and it is a little bit disconcerning for some people, just hold the camera up to the eye, and suddenly it's refocusing on everything they point the camera at, and so I think most people are gonna probably wanna leave this turned off. The auto focus illuminator is the light on the front of the camera that will turn on under low light conditions. I turn it off, because it really doesn't do much good, it's only good for about five or six feet, depending on how dark the environment is, and it can be kinda distracting to subjects that you're shooting that just kind of, I like to be a little bit low-key when I'm shooting, not have a lot of people, "Oh, what are you doing over there?" And so, I would turn that off. Face detection setting, we've talked about this I think two times before, and this is where it will do facial detection. It works very well, but I tend to prefer to use it only if there is a single person on in the frame, and so if you do a lot of portrait photography, you might program one of the function buttons to actively turn this on and off. All right, second page for auto focusing, auto focus plus manual focus. If you turn this on, pressing halfway down will auto focus like normal, but you'll be allowed to go to the lens, and manually touch up, or adjust the focus after the camera has auto focused. If you manual focus and then pressed down, it's gonna auto focus again, so you have to press down halfway, and then you can manually touch up. And so, if you like to manually focus, you got a good manual focus ring on these Fujis, you press halfway down, and then do a little touch up if you want to. If you don't want to, just don't touch the focusing ring on the camera. Manual focus assist. What's going on here is a little sub menu that we're gonna dive into. So, this is the first of many sub menus in the camera. A standard system is where it will magnify the image. Let's go ahead and take a look at a quick video of how this works. So, as we focus, it magnifies the middle part of the image, and I'm just trying to focus, and get it sharp. And if I, you know, still can't tell, I'll turn the back dial on the camera, and magnify even closer, until I get sharp focus. And then, it jumps back to the full screen. And so, for anybody who's manually focusing, it's really nice, because you get a really close look at what's in focus. And so, I very much like the standard focusing. And if you wanna change the size of the magnification, you just turn the back dial while you are in this mode. The next option is a digital split image. This can be done in black and white and in color. I'm gonna show you what it looks like in color. This kinda heralds back to the days of split image viewfinders when we had manual focus cameras, and you would try to line up vertical lines, as you can see us doing there with the film canister in front, and we'll do it for the film canister in the middle. We're just trying to line up vertical lines. To be honest with you, I have had a bit of trouble getting this to work in the field, just because I don't have a vertical line to work with. And so, not too many people use this system out there, but give it a try, see if you like it. And that is the digital split image. You can choose it in black and white if you want, I think it's fine in color. Focus peak highlighting. This can be chosen in low and high settings for different colors, and I'm gonna show it to you in red here. This shows you the area that is in focus. So, you can see, as I'm focusing this lens manually back and forth on the foreground and the middle ground subjects, you can see exactly where the lens's depth of field is gonna hold true, and what's in focus. And so, it's a very effective way of determining where your focus lies. The downside is that it's just kind of an irritating thing to look at, because you're not gonna get that in your final picture, thankfully, and so technically it's a nice help, but it's something that you may wanna turn on and off according to your needs. You can choose whatever color, and how high or low of intensity you like to see. A lot of people leave it on the white high setting, but that's, of course, perfectly up to you. Now, if you recall, we were looking at the shortcut of this, you can press and hold the back dial when you are in the manual focus mode to adjust between those three modes, and you hold it in there for a couple of seconds, and it will just change from the standard, to the split, to the peaking option. Focus check. And so, in focus check, the camera immediately will jump to a magnified image to show you what you're focusing on. So, let's do a little demo. Turn my camera on, and let's go into the, you know, we're in the black and white mode, I'm gonna switch back to my standard C1 setting here for the rest of the day. And we're gonna go into the menu setting under, where are we? We're auto focus, under focus check, we're on the second page, focus check, and so we can turn this and off. And so, we do have it on. I'm gonna turn my camera into the manual focus around the front of the camera. And so now, let's put the focusing bracket on the fruit down there at the bottom. And so, as soon as I touch the focusing ring, it jumps in, and goes to it. And then, if I wanna get out of it, I can just press the shutter release. And let's go down here again. And so, I have this set in standard, let's go ahead and just see, I have this set in standard right now. If I wanted to put this in focus peak, and I have it in red, now you can see it jumps in close, and has focused peaking at the same time. So, I have magnification and focus peaking simultaneously at the same time, simply because I have manual focusing set on peaking, and focused check turned on. And so, I like to manually focus from time to time, and I do like that jumping in to show me the magnification on that. And then, you can change the magnification of course by turning that back dial, if the camera is in AFS mode, not the other modes. Interlocking the spot and focus area, and I mentioned this earlier, when we talked about the spot metering. You can have the spot metering isolated to the green focusing spot. And I know some people are really gonna like that really tight control over where the focus, where that metering spot is, because it is very, very sensitive to wear that box is. And so, it matches the size and location of the auto focus point. And it only works though when you are choosing single points, so if you're choosing a zone, or the large area, it obviously will not work in that situation. Instant auto focus setting. So, when you have your camera set to manual focus with that dial on the front of the camera, the AFL button on the back of the camera is your auto focus override. When you press that button, do you want the camera to be in an auto focus single mode, or in auto focus continuous mode? Most people are gonna probably want it in the single mode, but if you do a lot of action photography, and manual focus, then you might wanna have that in the C, for continuous mode. Depth of field scale. So, lenses have depth of field scales on them, and most of the lenses that you will see out there, from Fuji and other manufacturers, have kind of an archaic depth of field scale that was designed, I believe back in the 30s or the 40s, and it was according to the sharpness of a normal print image back from that era. And so, when we talk about a film basis, you know, you can't see quite as closely, can't see quite as much detail, so it appears that you're getting more depth of field then you actually are. And so, we have the option of film basis or pixel basis. And so, if you were not too exact about things, you're like, "Oh, is it just kind of in focus," the film bases will be fine, but for those of you who are gonna pixel peep, you're gonna be looking at this, these images on a Hi-Rez digital monitor, then you're gonna wanna go by pixel basis, because that's gonna give you a little tighter example. Basically what it's doing, for those of you who know about it, is it's choosing a smaller circle of confusion, as far as deciding how much is determined in what your depth of field is. And so, it gives you a little bit tighter basis. And so, I would recommend most people set that on pixel basis so that you get a better idea of what is actually going to be in focus with a 24 megapixel sensor like this camera has. Release/focus priority is where we get to dive into a little sub menu. The first option is AF-S priority. So, when the camera is in the single focusing mode, what's most important, taking the picture, or making sure that it's in focus? Most cameras, most people are used to a focus priority, which means the camera has to be in focus. The downside to this is that if you are not careful about focusing, the camera will not let you shoot a photo, and you might be frustrated because you're pressing down on the button, and the camera can't focus, and won't shoot a photo. But, it's probably for the best, because it would probably be an out of focus photo. Now, with the AF-C setting, there we go, a lot of cameras have this set to release priority. And you can try, and if you do a lot of action photography, you're probably gonna wanna try out release and focus priority to see which works best for you. Under release priority, what's happening is that the camera is trying really hard to focus, but it's also trying to keep up with the motor drive shooting, and the priority is for you to get photos. And if something is little bit less than perfect, it's still gonna take photos. And so, it's gonna depend a little bit what aperture you're shooting, and the type of action you're shooting, as to whether that little bit out of focus really matters, because there are many cases where a little bit out of focus in a sports photograph doesn't even matter at all. If you find that the focus is not as quite spot on as you want, that would be a good reason to taking this down to the focus setting. And I believe it comes, I forget what this comes normally set to, but I am definitely making some changes here from the default system. And this is something that, as I say, you may need to do a little test on your own if you do this, but I think this is a good starting point for most people.

Class Description


  • Capture images on the Fujifilm X-T2 with confidence
  • Set custom controls and menus
  • Master exposure and autofocus with the X-T2
  • Easily set up the camera's Wi-Fi


The Fujifilm X-T2 is one of the best travel cameras on the market, with a large X-Trans CMOS APS-C sensor packed inside a mirrorless compact camera. But that first date with the X-T2 doesn't always go well. Skip the 356-page instruction manual and explore the X-T2's features with expert photographer John Greengo at your side.

Start with basics like setting up the camera and taking the first shot, then dive into advanced topics like using a battery grip and customizing the electronic viewfinder. Learn how to capture an accurate exposure and how to work with the X-T2's AF system. Finally, in an update to the class, find out how to update the firmware and what new features Fujifilm has added since the mirrorless digital camera's launch.

This fast start course gives you everything you need to successfully shoot with the X-T2. Whether you are just picking up the X-T2 for the first time or are self-taught, learn the X-T2 inside and out, including more than a dozen "secret" shortcuts.


  • Photographers just picking up the X-T2 for the first time
  • Self-taught photographers that want to find what they're missing
  • Photographers considering investing in the X-T2

MATERIALS USED: Fujifilm X-T2, lenses and accessories


John Greengo is an award-winning travel and outdoor photographer. Along with his creative work, he's lead dozens of classes on photography basics. He's taught Fast Start classes for dozens of different cameras, including Canon, Nikon, Sony, and Olympus digital cameras as well as Fujifilm cameras. He's lead several classes on X-Series cameras, including the Fujifilm X-T20, Fujifilm X-H1, Fujifilm X-Pro2, Fujifilm X-T1, Fujifilm X-E2, and Fujifilm X-T10. John's straightforward teaching style makes it easy to ditch the boring instruction manual to learn the ins and outs of your camera.


  1. Class Introduction

    Get started with the Fujifilm X-T2 in this short intro lesson. Learn what to expect in the class, and why the X-T2 is such a great little camera.

  2. Camera Overview

    Start exploring the X-T2 in this lesson. Get a quick overview of the Fuji camera history influencing the Fujifilm X series. Learn what the weather-sealed camera can handle, what requires rain gear and how to check for new firmware. Set up the camera to take your first, simple photo.

  3. Photo Basics

    Learn the basics of how the Fujifilm X-T2 works. Understand basics like aperture and shutter speed, as well as essentials like how to hold the camera and why you should understand manual mode.

  4. Top Deck: Overview

    Gain an essential overview of the camera's most essential controls, from powering the camera on and off to navigation through the menu and using the new focus stick.

  5. Top Deck: Exposure Control

    Start deciphering all those controls at the top of the camera, beginning with the exposure adjustments. Learn how to use the ISO, shutter speed and exposure compensation wheels. Without a mode dial, learn how to switch from automated modes to manual modes.

  6. Top Deck: Metering

    Learn how to use the first of several function buttons on the camera with the button set by default to face detection. Gain recommendations for Fujifilm flashes that best pair with the camera, from the bundled flash to more advanced options to slide into that hot shoe slot. Underneath the shutter speed dial, learn how to use the metering controls on the camera and what each setting entails.

  7. Top Deck: Drive Mode

    The drive mode controls, underneath the ISO dial, contains several settings. Learn how to use burst shooting on the X-T2, the perks of the low shooting mode and high shooting mode, and how to shoot at 14 fps. Find the settings for bracketing options, video capture, multiple exposure, advanced filters, and panoramas.

  8. Camera Controls: Viewfinder Display

    The X-T2 has one of the best electronic viewfinders on the market. Find out how to adjust what the viewfinder displays and whether the eye sensor automatically switches between the LCD and viewfinder. Learn how to adjust the back LCD tilt screen horizontally as well as the hidden vertical adjustment.

  9. Backside: Playback

    Take a tour of the X-T2's playback settings. Learn how to view your images with multiple control options, as well as a shortcut to switch from one SD card to the other SD card. Discover how to quickly check the focus right at the focal point.

  10. Backside: Auto Exposure Lock and Focus

    Learn how to use the autoexposure lock -- or how to reprogram the button for an entirely new purpose. See how Fujifilm recognizes two different types of button presses. Discover the many adjustments possible using just the rear control dial -- which doubles as a button.

  11. Backside: Quick Menu Custom Settings

    Fujifilm knows that you're not going to want to dig through the full menu for every adjustment -- and that's where the quick menu or Q menu comes in. Learn how to adjust the 16 different options in the quick menu to your shooting style.

  12. Quick Menu: AF Mode

    Continue exploring the quick menu options with the different settings for the Fujifilm X-T2's autofocus system. Learn how to work with different autofocus modes, as well as essentials like the difference between phase detection and contrast detection autofocus.

  13. Quick Menu: Dynamic Range & White Balance

    If you shoot JPEG, you can adjust the dynamic range of the image to prevent blowing out the highlights. Learn how to adjust the dynamic range, as well as how to quickly access different white balance settings on the X-T2.

  14. Quick Menu: Noise, Image Size, Film Sim & Color

    The X-T2 can automatically adjust noise in JPEGs --- learn how to adjust this feature, and how much noise reduction is too much. Then, work with different image sizes and file types, as well as the film simulation and colors the Fujifilm X Series is known for.

  15. Quick Menu: Self Timer, Face Detection & Flash

    Finish going through the quick menu by going through the settings for the self-timer, face detection, and flash options.

  16. Function Button of Fuji X-T2

    Learn several hidden shortcuts in the X-T2's physical controls in this lesson on the camera's custom function buttons. Discover shortcuts using that new focus stick, and the re-programmable arrow keys, which double as function buttons.

  17. Left & Right Side of Fuji X-T2

    Continue the tour around the X-T2 and take a look at the right and left sides, which houses the camera's ports. Learn what accessories are compatible, as well as essential tips like the fastest way to charge the batteries.

  18. Bottom of Fuji X-T2

    The bottom of the camera houses essentials like the battery compartment and serial number. Gain some tips on getting the most out of the X-T2 battery in this lesson.

  19. Front of Fuji X-T2

    Finish off the tour of the X-T2 body with the front of the camera body, which includes the PC sync port and focus mode switch. Learn about the APS-C X-Trans CMOS sensor and how it works.

  20. Fuji Lenses

    With Fujifilm, some of the camera's controls live on the lens and not the camera body. Learn how to use these controls, like the aperture and image stabilization switch, well as what Fuji lenses pair best with this mirrorless camera body, including both prime and zoom lens options. Gain an understanding of what all those lens abbreviations mean, like XC and WR.

  21. Q&A

    Gain additional insight into the camera with common questions from students like you.

  22. Camera Menu Overview

    In the second half of the class, dive into the menu system and learn how to customize your X-T2. Start with an overview of the menu (and the hidden playback menu) to get a jump start on properly setting up the X-T2.

  23. Image Quality Settings

    Dive into the first subcategory in the menu with the image quality settings. Learn the best file settings for the X-T2. Learn what the difference is between lossless compressed and uncompressed RAW files and more image quality settings in this lesson.

  24. Auto Focus and Manual Focus Menus

    Next up, head into the autofocus and manual focus menu. While there are shortcuts and quick menu options for these controls, understanding this menu is helpful for setting up custom control schemes. Dive into Fujifilm's new custom AF-C options, what they are, and where to set them.

  25. Shooting Settings

    The image-related controls that aren't about focus and image quality live inside this menu. Here, follow along with the different options, from bracketing to burst speed. Learn why the fastest burst speed isn't always best because of that electronic shutter.

  26. Flash Mode

    If you have a flash mounted to the X-T2, adjust the different settings inside this menu, from choosing to shoot TTL or manual, to adjusting flash compensation.

  27. Movie Mode

    Find the options for shooting video with the X-T2 inside this menu. Learn video shooting basics like resolution and frame rate, and dive into the X-T2's different video shooting options.

  28. Camera Menu Q&A

    Find answers to the most commonly asked questions about the X-T2 menu, including questions on using the digital camera's Wi-Fi and other features.

  29. Set-Up Menu: Basics

    Dive into a quick overview of how the Set-Up Menu works, from formatting the SD cards to setting the time zone.

  30. Demo: Add Items to My Menu

    Personalizing the X-T2 allows you to set your camera up to your shooting style. In this live demo, see how to set up the My Menu so your most frequently accessed controls are easy to find.

  31. User Setting: Sensor Cleaning and Sounds

    Finish exploring the user setting menu with options for cleaning the sensor. Then, dig into the sound settings.

  32. Screen Set-Up

    Learn how to customize the viewfinder and LCD displays in this menu, from brightness and color to what's displayed on-screen.

  33. Button Dial Setting & Power Management

    In the button and dial settings, learn how to customize the way the physical controls on the camera work, along with customizing the quick menu.

  34. Save Data Set-Up & Connection Setting

    Choose how the images are saved to the SD card in this menu, from adjusting the file names to backing up your photos to the second SD card. Then, head into the Wi-Fi settings menu to adjust the X-T2's connectivity settings.

  35. Playback Menu

    Inside the playback menu, learn how to convert RAW files in camera, delete files, and more tricks for images that you've already shot.

  36. Camera Operation Overview

    Gain some final tips on camera operation in this lesson, including a pre-shot checklist as well as how to check for dust on the sensor. John shares advice on a hierarchy of custom controls and final thoughts for getting the most out of the Fujifilm X-T2.

  37. Firmware Addendum

    In this update to the class, learn how to use the new features made possible by the version 3.21 firmware. Dive into the process for updating the firmware, the firmware history of the camera, and how to use the new features.


John Simpson

I highly recommend this class! Been shooting Nikon for 40+ years and decided to give my Nikon gear to my daughter and go the smaller and lighter Fuji X-T2 for travel. Excellent camera and this course was outstanding in helping me learn how to use the camera. I have watched a number of Nikon oriented instructional videos. This video by John Greengo is the best organized and informative presentation I have ever watched.

Monroe Nevels

We all learn from different methods. I, for one, learn best by watching you while teaching, and being able to work along side you, with my camera in hand, and then follow you. I highly recommend this class if you really want to know how to use your camera. Thank you John for helping me to relive my film days, and integrating into Digital. I now have my Fujo X-T2 programmed and I LOVE IT!

a Creativelive Student

Really appreciate John putting these Fast Start Series together. Went through part of the training waiting on my Fujifilm X-T20 to arrive, which did today. That allowed me to dive into the menu settings and get the camera ready to use. I found that we are on Firmware 3.0, so, I have some updates to get installed. The training was great and informative as always. Don't hesitate to look for his Fast Start for your particular camera, and the in-depth training on Photography Fundamentals. It is well worth your time and money to get this training, especially if you are an amateur like myself, but, thanks to John Greengo I am quickly learning to use my camera in Manual Mode, most of the time.