The last menu in the camera is the play back menu, and if you recall this is somewhat of a secret menu. You have to hit the play back button, and then you hit the menu button, and then you have access to the play back menu. First option is switching the slot. Which slot-- memory slot are you looking at when you're looking at images on a memory card? Cause you can't look at images on both memory cards simultaneously, you gotta choose one or the other. And so choosing one or two right there. Raw conversion, okay so this is kind of cool. When you take a raw photo, if you would like a jpeg version of this particular image, you can go in and adjust that image in any of these different effects. And so what I'm gonna do is a little demo. And I need a photograph to start with. And so let's go ahead and zoom in on our subjects. And I need to make sure that this is a raw image to start with. And so I'm making sure that I do have it in raw, right now. So when I shoot a photo of this, alright, I'm...
gonna play that image back. And so that's the image there. And actually let's go in to the play, I gotta hit play back, hit the menu, come down to raw conversion, go to the right, and then I got to ask myself, well, what do I want to do with this image? Well, tell you what, let's go a grain effect strong. Okay, just gonna just do something so we can see it. Not gonna play with the light balance. Shadow tone, let's lighten up the shadows with a minus. Let's take the colors, actually what I wanna do is I wanna turn this thing black and white. How do I turn it black and white? Film simulation. Film simulation, let's do acros red. Okay, so we're gonna add that into it. And I think that's probably enough. And then I'm gonna come over here and you see where it says Q Create, I'm gonna hit the Q. It's processing, here is my new image. Do I want to store that image? I'm gonna say okay, cause that's our center button right there. And I've just stored the image. So let me go back and I'm gonna play back my images. I'm live, let's go back, play back. And here's my original raw image, let's see if I can get some information on this. And so this is my original raw image, you can see right there. Let me just get this straightened up so you can see it. And this next image is a large fine jpeg, and it's the acros red. And I adjusted some of the settings on this. And so we have minus two, I think that was the shadow area. So I was lightening up the shadows a little bit. And then the grain was really strong, and so let's see if I can jump in, let's see. I can zoom around, and it's a little hard to see the grain, but if you get in real close you can, yeah I guess you can see that grain there and so that's with the grain effect strong. And so that's one of the great reasons for shooting raw is that you can go back and you can switch it over to a jpeg of any other sort. Now, an extra secret trick for you. Let's say you shot a raw image two months ago, you downloaded it on your computer, and you're thinking I don't like the way, cause like programs like Adobe Lightroom will simulate what the effects are of using the camera, but they're not exactly the same. And if you said no, I want to do it exactly the way the camera would've done it. You can take that raw image, put it back in the camera, and here's the way to do it. I would start with a formatted memory card. Put it in your camera. Shoot a photo. Because you want to see what the file number of that card is. Take that card out, put in your computer, and then drag your raw image that you've had stored on your hard drives, on to that card, and then rename that card right in line with the file numbering of the image that you just took in the camera so that it's in line. And that's the only reason you took that photo is just so that you can see what the file number is. Then you can take that, put it back in the camera, and you can process it just like I did right here. And that way you could say, take that raw image, and process any sort of black and white from it. So you can always go back and do that. Requires a little bit of logistics, but it does work and it works perfectly well. Alright, so you can play with that on any of your raw images. If this is grayed out, it's because it doesn't work on jpeg images, it only works on raw images. Which is why it's called raw conversion. You can erase images either individually or you can select individual frames. If you have a lot of them to delete. Normally it's considered bad practice to erase in the camera. Occasionally it can cause a communication problem with the camera. I haven't heard of any problems with this camera. It's just kind of in general. And so I would prefer to format a memory card when I'm completely done with it. Cropping an image. If you have an image and you think, you know I don't need the full area, you can take it and you can crop in on it with jpeg images. And then you can have a little bit cropped in version so if you need to kick something out of the camera that's ready to go right away you can do so. Resizing the images. Actually should be called downsizing the images because you can't resize up. You can go large to medium, medium to small, small to really small, 640, and so if you just need a smaller size file that emails more easily you can downsize a jpeg here. You can protect images. It prevents them from being deleted on the camera. Unfortunately they can still be reformatted on the memory card, and so it's a very light level of protection. If you need to rotate images, perhaps for a slideshow, either in camera, on a TV, you can rotate images once in the play back mode. If you want to go ahead and try to do a red eye removal in the camera, you can do that post production. You might stay right in the camera, it depends on how bad the red eye is. It may or may not work. Copying images. If you have a card in slot one and then you want to back it up, you can put a card in slot two and copy all the images over. Or you can go from slot two to slot one. So very versatile between the two slots there. There is another option for diving into the wireless communication system here. This is the same as the one we looked at in the previous section, it's just that it gives us an option without having to back out of the menu and go back in to the custom settings where we would normally go. You can put the camera into a slideshow mode, it starts a slideshow, shows you an image for about three seconds and then goes on to the next image. There really aren't any parameters but it just is a nice quick simple slideshow. There is a photobook assist, which is essentially a collection of images that you would later put together for putting photo books together. It's a way of editing in the camera. Honestly, most people who have this camera are probably not gonna use that feature because they would rather do this on their computer. But if you didn't have a computer, the camera gives you a way of doing it in the camera. As I mentioned before, the camera has a way of hooking up to a PC and automatically saving images once you've plugged it in. You will need an application called Fuji Film PC Autosave. I haven't used that software and so that is something I don't have a lot of extra information on other than it is possible. Most people just simply take the memory card out and plug it in to a card reader. As it's often faster. Next up is the print order, you can hook your camera up to a printer and get prints directly out of the printer. Straight from the camera. And then you can choose to have it with date, or with date or you can reset them all. And so it's a quick way, it's not the best way of getting prints, it's gonna probably be a little bit better to go through a computer to make the other necessary adjustments according to the type of paper and printer you are using. You can of course use the instax printer, and this is kinda cool where you can wirelessly send the picture information to the instax printer. And it prints out a copy right then and there for you to hand out and have fun with. Display aspect, if you are gonna be hooking up to a TV do you want to use the full TV screen which is by nine, or do you want to see the full image from the camera which is three by two? And so it just kind of depends on what your priorities are for that one.
AFTER THIS CLASS YOU’LL BE ABLE TO:
- Capture images on the Fujifilm X-T2 with confidence
- Set custom controls and menus
- Master exposure and autofocus with the X-T2
- Easily set up the camera's Wi-Fi
ABOUT JOHN’S CLASS:
The Fujifilm X-T2 is one of the best travel cameras on the market, with a large X-Trans CMOS APS-C sensor packed inside a mirrorless compact camera. But that first date with the X-T2 doesn't always go well. Skip the 356-page instruction manual and explore the X-T2's features with expert photographer John Greengo at your side.
Start with basics like setting up the camera and taking the first shot, then dive into advanced topics like using a battery grip and customizing the electronic viewfinder. Learn how to capture an accurate exposure and how to work with the X-T2's AF system. Finally, in an update to the class, find out how to update the firmware and what new features Fujifilm has added since the mirrorless digital camera's launch.
This fast start course gives you everything you need to successfully shoot with the X-T2. Whether you are just picking up the X-T2 for the first time or are self-taught, learn the X-T2 inside and out, including more than a dozen "secret" shortcuts.
WHO THIS CLASS IS FOR:
- Photographers just picking up the X-T2 for the first time
- Self-taught photographers that want to find what they're missing
- Photographers considering investing in the X-T2
MATERIALS USED: Fujifilm X-T2, lenses and accessories
ABOUT YOUR INSTRUCTOR:
John Greengo is an award-winning travel and outdoor photographer. Along with his creative work, he's lead dozens of classes on photography basics. He's taught Fast Start classes for dozens of different cameras, including Canon, Nikon, Sony, and Olympus digital cameras as well as Fujifilm cameras. He's lead several classes on X-Series cameras, including the Fujifilm X-T20, Fujifilm X-H1, Fujifilm X-Pro2, Fujifilm X-T1, Fujifilm X-E2, and Fujifilm X-T10. John's straightforward teaching style makes it easy to ditch the boring instruction manual to learn the ins and outs of your camera.