Does the hyperfocal distances work in the view finder with non-Fuji lenses? I have not had a chance to put the Zeiss lenses on. I don't know, my suspension is that they would work with the Zeiss, but for any sort of manually adapted lens, of course they're not gonna work because there's no electronics communicating. And so I apologize, I haven't had a chance to, I like the Fuji lenses so much I haven't wanted to get the Zeiss ones, I've been totally happy with the Fuji's. And so I haven't had a chance to play with that. I'll take a look at it in the future and so my suspicion is because they have the electronics communicating, is that it would do it. But you may want to confirm that if you're basing a purchase on that. Alright, lets take a look at the next one. Did I understand correctly that you can eventually get better results if you shoot at ISO 200 and then increase exposure in post production instead of shooting at a higher ISO in the camera? That isn't exactly what I said. You'r...
e pretty close to that. We were, the example that I was giving, was in a case where you were gonna blow out the highlights. And so I have tried shooting at different ISO's and just boosting it later. The problem is, is that in many software programs you can only boost it two or three, four five stops. And with the ISO we can boost things one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight stops of light from ISO 200. And so, it's not, I would say, no that is generally not true there. But you can boost things from ISO 200 by two to three stops very, very easily. I would still recommend shooting at whatever ISO you think you need and the most critical point about getting right is just don't over expose the highlights. If you do not over expose the highlights you'll be able to boost from wherever you're at. And so you may want to do a few testing on your own because if you can shoot something at ISO200 rather than it will have a little bit less noise. If you can successfully boost that 200. It's just that this camera is very, very easy at boosting those low light levels. And so I typically will be shooting at whatever ISO I need to shoot at, but I'm just gonna be watching those highlights. I'll probably be looking at that histogram to make sure it's not going up against the right hand side of that bracket. And then if you do that, I think you're gonna be golden on your exposure.