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Fujifilm X-T2 Fast Start

Lesson 14 of 37

Quick Menu: Noise, Image Size, Film Sim & Color


Fujifilm X-T2 Fast Start

Lesson 14 of 37

Quick Menu: Noise, Image Size, Film Sim & Color


Lesson Info

Quick Menu: Noise, Image Size, Film Sim & Color

First up is noise reduction and this is basically high ISO noise reduction. As you shoot with higher ISOs, you're gonna get noise on your images, and if you want to control that you can control the level that the camera will fix, that setting. It's kind of set, right now, to do a little bit of fix setting at zero. I wanted to shoot a test photo at a variety of these settings in here. This first little slice that you see is from ISO 6400. You can see at minus one we're getting a fair bit of noise, and at minus four, it might be correcting too much for the noise. What happens is it starts to muddle the details and soften the image. It kinda becomes a little bit muddy, and it's doing a little too much correction, for many people in many cases. The best way to deal with shooting at ISO 400, in my opinion, is of course shooting with the RAW image and going in and adjusting that in post production, which is what I did over there on the right. It may not seem quite as contrasty in the colors ...

'cause I haven't got to changing that part yet, but you'll have even more control there. For those who wanna shoot JPEGs, you can really dial how much is, fixed or attempted to be fixed, by the camera. I wanted to try it at a more extreme level, so this is ISO 25600. Looking at these results closely, plus four is just a little too much correction. I could see leaving it at zero, maybe plus two, maybe you want it to do less and you wanna go in and control more of it yourself later on. You might have it even on the minus side on that. Once again, you're likely to get even better results with RAW if you're willing to go in and work with those images later on in post-production. Zero is not a bad place to leave it for now. Adjust it as you see fit. Next up, image size. For the JPEG shooters, what size of image are you recording. We have large, medium, and small, along with different aspect ratios. The large, medium, and small is how many megapixels, 24, 12, or six megapixels, and the aspect ratio of the sensor is 3:2, but if you wanna shoot the wide HD format, you can shoot 16:9, or you can shoot squares, 1:1. So, you would select that. Be very careful about selecting a square image in there. It's not something everybody wants to do on a regular basis. Next up, is image quality. This is where we get to choose RAW, or JPEG, or both. When it says fine and normal, what that really means is it's a JPEG of higher compression or lower compression. If you are shooting JPEGs, you would probably wanna shoot it in fine. With RAW, there are the options of shooting plain RAW, or RAW with a normal size or a fine size JPEG. A lot of people who use the Fujis wanna get the RAW information off of it, but the JPEGs do have something to them. A lot of people are shooting RAW and JPEG on this camera. I'm doing it for, kind of, a completely different reason. I'm doing it because, when you shoot a JPEG, you get a greater magnification in the playback mode. Let me go ahead and do a little demo here, for you, on that right now. It seems like a good place to do it. First thing I am going to do is, I am going to go into the Quick Menu, and we're gonna change this to a RAW image. First image here, let me get in closely. (camera beeping) what focusing system am I on? I'm gonna go back to single point here. I'm gonna focus on the clock, up there, the timer. I'm gonna shoot one image here, now I'm gonna go back in to the Quick Menu, and I am going to change it from RAW to a fine quality JPEG. Okay, and I'm gonna shoot a picture. Actually I shot a couple pictures there 'cause I had the continuous setting on. So lemme go back and I need to go back to the, lemme double check where's my status here. So I'm looking in the back here, I wanna get to the RAW image. This is the RAW image. You remember, if I wanna zoom in, how do I zoom in? I press this dial on the back. I zoom in, and that's as close as I can get. So are we filling the frame with the timer? Definitely not. Now I'm gonna press playback and I wanna get to my JPEG image, and I wanna make sure that I'm on JPEG. Here I am on the large, fine JPEG there. I'm gonna change the display back to fullscreen, and when I press in on this it's gonna zoom in on where the focus point was, it was on the timer. Look how much closer we are. This is much easier to judge focus. If we don't want this close, we can always back off. The RAW, if I recall, was somewhere around here. But now, we can get in much closer to check focus. For just this reason alone, I shoot RAW plus JPEG. I'm gonna go in and shoot, RAW, you can shoot even normal. I'm gonna go ahead and shoot it on fine. Now when I take a photo let's focus in on the fruit down here. (camera beeping) Take a look at this image. Zoom in, and we're in there nice and close so we can see if that's sharp or not. That's why I'm often shooting in RAW plus JPEG. Adjust that as your needs see fit, but if you do wanna get that close up view, you need to be shooting a JPEG. It can be either alone or with the RAW images. Next up is the film simulation. This is where the camera, in JPEG modes, can mimic different types of film. Let's go ahead and take a look at an example. Here's our standard shot from the camera. What we're gonna do is we're gonna take a portion of it, it doesn't need to be too small 'cause we're kinda just looking at the colors and the lightness and the darkness, of what it looks like with a Provia, which is a very standard process which is gonna look pretty close to the RAW. The RAW's a little bit on the flat side. The Velvia is gonna be high in contrast, very rich in saturation. Then we have a softer colors, which is better for portrait photography. If you're shooting portraits, don't use Velvia. It's not a good one for it. Much better would be Astia. There's a Classic Chrome which is a very soft color, they've kinda desaturated things. Then there's a PRO Neg. Hi res and Lo res. This was originally designed around film, designed for portrait photographers, often either working outside or in the studio. Kinda shot it in a, low saturation so they could add as much saturation as they need, later on. If you would like a visual of, where do all these films fit in comparison to each other. Here's a graph and we're gonna do low saturation on the left, and high saturation on the right. High contrast above and low contrast below. Provia is right there in the middle. Astia is that little bit softer one so it's good for portrait photography. If you wanted to look at the scale you could say, things higher up on the scale are good for landscapes, and the ones down below are better for people photography. Classic Chrome kinda has it's own unique look to it, and then those PRO Negs are on the lower side, very good for portrait photography, as well, where you might be adjusting those colors later on. Along with this, we have several Monochrome modes. One that will use yellow, red, and green filters. You might wanna play around to see which ones work best for the types of subjects that you're working with. Reds often work well for landscapes because they make the blue skies very dark. I didn't have a blue sky on this test. Greens can often work well for portraits. Then we have the Acros, which is a special black and white mode. It's a black and white, and it's very similar to the Monochrome. Its gonna have a little different contrast to it. One of the things that's unique about the Acros mode, is that it has, kind of, a built in film grain look to it. There's kind of a contrast that you're gonna see as it changes at different ISOs. I'll show you an example of that in an upcoming slide. We have standard Monochrome and Acros and, I've kinda gone back and forth as to which ones I like. We do, also, have a Sepia, which adds just kinda that, brown hue for that old-timey look in the photographs. I wanted to compare on the black and white, the Monochrome versus the Acros models. What I did is I shot one scene using both systems at different ISOs. I wanted to look at the contrast levels. One of the things you'll notice is that the Acros has a little bit more contrast, the blacks are a little bit deeper on them. Let me get those coming up here, there we go. One of the things that some people like, I at first didn't like, I'm warming up a little bit to, but I haven't totally warmed up yet, is that when you shoot the Acros at very high ISOs, it adds in a simulated film grain. I would say that Fuji does a better job than anybody else in this type of, kind of, digital film grain, if you will. I think I'm still kinda in preference to the standard Monochrome one. There's choices there because everyone has their own opinion. Test it out yourself, see what you like and make those choices yourself. Those are our film simulation modes and that's gonna be something that's applied to JPEG images. Something that we'll do a little bit later on, you can shoot a RAW image, this is really cool, you can shoot a RAW image, and then you can come back later on, and you can process the image in the camera to make any one of these JPEGs, that you want out of the camera. All of this information is coming from the RAW, so as long as you have the RAW, you can go back and make one of these, later on. Moving to our next line in the Quick Menu. We have our highlight tones, and this is, once again, for JPEG only shooters, and this is controlling the intensity of the highlights. If you want them even brighter, you would go to plus four. If you want them less bright, you would go to minus two. Kind of the exact opposite of that is the shadow tones for JPEG only. If you want the shadows more intense you would go to the plus side, and if you want them less intense you would go to the minus side. This deserves, of course, a little image sample. Here's our image, we have areas in the shadow, we have areas in the brightness. What we're gonna do is we're gonna make some adjustments. We're gonna go at minus two in the highlights. Notice in that red area what the highlights look like, and you'll notice in the plus four photo that they are blown out highlights. Doesn't really, particularly look good in this case, but it's showing you what it does. In the shadow areas, let's look at some shadow regions at minus two. We're brightening up the shadows. Then at plus four, we're making the shadows a little bit darker. One of the things that's a little confusing is if you are used to exposure compensation, you need to forget that when we get into the highlight shadows. Plus means more intense of that particular feature, minus means less intense of that particular feature. You can, of course, combine these. You can take them both to minus. It's trying to make the image a more flat image. If you really wanna see what's going on, you can see what's going on very clearly in the histogram. When you go to the plus on both sides, you are making a more contrasty image. For this particular image, I think looks terrible, but it's something you might wanna play around with if you shoot black and white photos in camera. You can get a little bit more contrasty look, straight in the camera and in the viewfinder, as you're composing. Normally I'd leave those set on zero but they are a good place to play around a little bit and have some fun. Next up is the color, and this is simply the saturation. How much saturation do you want? Let's do a quick little example. Here's our base image. We're gonna go in and look at the colors at these different settings. Minus reduces the intensity of the color. Zero is normal, and then we can have more intense colors. If you're shooting landscapes, you might wanna go a little bit to the plus side. If you're shooting people, you might wanna go a little bit to the minus side. That is, once again, only for JPEGs. Sharpness. JPEG only. How much sharpening do you want the camera to do, on a particular photo? Let's take a photo and let's go in real close and take a look at the sharpness, 'cause we wanna see what the camera is doing at these different sharpness levels. You can clearly see there is a sharpness difference between these images. It is fully possible to over sharpen an image. If you're new to Photoshop or, you haven't dealt with sharpening before, it seems like, well I want things as sharp as possible. When you start doing that there's artifacts and, kind of, a weird edge that happens on a lot of items in the photograph itself. You don't want to over sharpen an image, it's not a good thing to do. Leaving this on zero to start with is not a bad default system, but if you want to tweak it a little bit, there's definitely some room for tweaking in here.

Class Description


  • Capture images on the Fujifilm X-T2 with confidence
  • Set custom controls and menus
  • Master exposure and autofocus with the X-T2
  • Easily set up the camera's Wi-Fi


The Fujifilm X-T2 is one of the best travel cameras on the market, with a large X-Trans CMOS APS-C sensor packed inside a mirrorless compact camera. But that first date with the X-T2 doesn't always go well. Skip the 356-page instruction manual and explore the X-T2's features with expert photographer John Greengo at your side.

Start with basics like setting up the camera and taking the first shot, then dive into advanced topics like using a battery grip and customizing the electronic viewfinder. Learn how to capture an accurate exposure and how to work with the X-T2's AF system. Finally, in an update to the class, find out how to update the firmware and what new features Fujifilm has added since the mirrorless digital camera's launch.

This fast start course gives you everything you need to successfully shoot with the X-T2. Whether you are just picking up the X-T2 for the first time or are self-taught, learn the X-T2 inside and out, including more than a dozen "secret" shortcuts.


  • Photographers just picking up the X-T2 for the first time
  • Self-taught photographers that want to find what they're missing
  • Photographers considering investing in the X-T2

MATERIALS USED: Fujifilm X-T2, lenses and accessories


John Greengo is an award-winning travel and outdoor photographer. Along with his creative work, he's lead dozens of classes on photography basics. He's taught Fast Start classes for dozens of different cameras, including Canon, Nikon, Sony, and Olympus digital cameras as well as Fujifilm cameras. He's lead several classes on X-Series cameras, including the Fujifilm X-T20, Fujifilm X-H1, Fujifilm X-Pro2, Fujifilm X-T1, Fujifilm X-E2, and Fujifilm X-T10. John's straightforward teaching style makes it easy to ditch the boring instruction manual to learn the ins and outs of your camera.


  1. Class Introduction

    Get started with the Fujifilm X-T2 in this short intro lesson. Learn what to expect in the class, and why the X-T2 is such a great little camera.

  2. Camera Overview

    Start exploring the X-T2 in this lesson. Get a quick overview of the Fuji camera history influencing the Fujifilm X series. Learn what the weather-sealed camera can handle, what requires rain gear and how to check for new firmware. Set up the camera to take your first, simple photo.

  3. Photo Basics

    Learn the basics of how the Fujifilm X-T2 works. Understand basics like aperture and shutter speed, as well as essentials like how to hold the camera and why you should understand manual mode.

  4. Top Deck: Overview

    Gain an essential overview of the camera's most essential controls, from powering the camera on and off to navigation through the menu and using the new focus stick.

  5. Top Deck: Exposure Control

    Start deciphering all those controls at the top of the camera, beginning with the exposure adjustments. Learn how to use the ISO, shutter speed and exposure compensation wheels. Without a mode dial, learn how to switch from automated modes to manual modes.

  6. Top Deck: Metering

    Learn how to use the first of several function buttons on the camera with the button set by default to face detection. Gain recommendations for Fujifilm flashes that best pair with the camera, from the bundled flash to more advanced options to slide into that hot shoe slot. Underneath the shutter speed dial, learn how to use the metering controls on the camera and what each setting entails.

  7. Top Deck: Drive Mode

    The drive mode controls, underneath the ISO dial, contains several settings. Learn how to use burst shooting on the X-T2, the perks of the low shooting mode and high shooting mode, and how to shoot at 14 fps. Find the settings for bracketing options, video capture, multiple exposure, advanced filters, and panoramas.

  8. Camera Controls: Viewfinder Display

    The X-T2 has one of the best electronic viewfinders on the market. Find out how to adjust what the viewfinder displays and whether the eye sensor automatically switches between the LCD and viewfinder. Learn how to adjust the back LCD tilt screen horizontally as well as the hidden vertical adjustment.

  9. Backside: Playback

    Take a tour of the X-T2's playback settings. Learn how to view your images with multiple control options, as well as a shortcut to switch from one SD card to the other SD card. Discover how to quickly check the focus right at the focal point.

  10. Backside: Auto Exposure Lock and Focus

    Learn how to use the autoexposure lock -- or how to reprogram the button for an entirely new purpose. See how Fujifilm recognizes two different types of button presses. Discover the many adjustments possible using just the rear control dial -- which doubles as a button.

  11. Backside: Quick Menu Custom Settings

    Fujifilm knows that you're not going to want to dig through the full menu for every adjustment -- and that's where the quick menu or Q menu comes in. Learn how to adjust the 16 different options in the quick menu to your shooting style.

  12. Quick Menu: AF Mode

    Continue exploring the quick menu options with the different settings for the Fujifilm X-T2's autofocus system. Learn how to work with different autofocus modes, as well as essentials like the difference between phase detection and contrast detection autofocus.

  13. Quick Menu: Dynamic Range & White Balance

    If you shoot JPEG, you can adjust the dynamic range of the image to prevent blowing out the highlights. Learn how to adjust the dynamic range, as well as how to quickly access different white balance settings on the X-T2.

  14. Quick Menu: Noise, Image Size, Film Sim & Color

    The X-T2 can automatically adjust noise in JPEGs --- learn how to adjust this feature, and how much noise reduction is too much. Then, work with different image sizes and file types, as well as the film simulation and colors the Fujifilm X Series is known for.

  15. Quick Menu: Self Timer, Face Detection & Flash

    Finish going through the quick menu by going through the settings for the self-timer, face detection, and flash options.

  16. Function Button of Fuji X-T2

    Learn several hidden shortcuts in the X-T2's physical controls in this lesson on the camera's custom function buttons. Discover shortcuts using that new focus stick, and the re-programmable arrow keys, which double as function buttons.

  17. Left & Right Side of Fuji X-T2

    Continue the tour around the X-T2 and take a look at the right and left sides, which houses the camera's ports. Learn what accessories are compatible, as well as essential tips like the fastest way to charge the batteries.

  18. Bottom of Fuji X-T2

    The bottom of the camera houses essentials like the battery compartment and serial number. Gain some tips on getting the most out of the X-T2 battery in this lesson.

  19. Front of Fuji X-T2

    Finish off the tour of the X-T2 body with the front of the camera body, which includes the PC sync port and focus mode switch. Learn about the APS-C X-Trans CMOS sensor and how it works.

  20. Fuji Lenses

    With Fujifilm, some of the camera's controls live on the lens and not the camera body. Learn how to use these controls, like the aperture and image stabilization switch, well as what Fuji lenses pair best with this mirrorless camera body, including both prime and zoom lens options. Gain an understanding of what all those lens abbreviations mean, like XC and WR.

  21. Q&A

    Gain additional insight into the camera with common questions from students like you.

  22. Camera Menu Overview

    In the second half of the class, dive into the menu system and learn how to customize your X-T2. Start with an overview of the menu (and the hidden playback menu) to get a jump start on properly setting up the X-T2.

  23. Image Quality Settings

    Dive into the first subcategory in the menu with the image quality settings. Learn the best file settings for the X-T2. Learn what the difference is between lossless compressed and uncompressed RAW files and more image quality settings in this lesson.

  24. Auto Focus and Manual Focus Menus

    Next up, head into the autofocus and manual focus menu. While there are shortcuts and quick menu options for these controls, understanding this menu is helpful for setting up custom control schemes. Dive into Fujifilm's new custom AF-C options, what they are, and where to set them.

  25. Shooting Settings

    The image-related controls that aren't about focus and image quality live inside this menu. Here, follow along with the different options, from bracketing to burst speed. Learn why the fastest burst speed isn't always best because of that electronic shutter.

  26. Flash Mode

    If you have a flash mounted to the X-T2, adjust the different settings inside this menu, from choosing to shoot TTL or manual, to adjusting flash compensation.

  27. Movie Mode

    Find the options for shooting video with the X-T2 inside this menu. Learn video shooting basics like resolution and frame rate, and dive into the X-T2's different video shooting options.

  28. Camera Menu Q&A

    Find answers to the most commonly asked questions about the X-T2 menu, including questions on using the digital camera's Wi-Fi and other features.

  29. Set-Up Menu: Basics

    Dive into a quick overview of how the Set-Up Menu works, from formatting the SD cards to setting the time zone.

  30. Demo: Add Items to My Menu

    Personalizing the X-T2 allows you to set your camera up to your shooting style. In this live demo, see how to set up the My Menu so your most frequently accessed controls are easy to find.

  31. User Setting: Sensor Cleaning and Sounds

    Finish exploring the user setting menu with options for cleaning the sensor. Then, dig into the sound settings.

  32. Screen Set-Up

    Learn how to customize the viewfinder and LCD displays in this menu, from brightness and color to what's displayed on-screen.

  33. Button Dial Setting & Power Management

    In the button and dial settings, learn how to customize the way the physical controls on the camera work, along with customizing the quick menu.

  34. Save Data Set-Up & Connection Setting

    Choose how the images are saved to the SD card in this menu, from adjusting the file names to backing up your photos to the second SD card. Then, head into the Wi-Fi settings menu to adjust the X-T2's connectivity settings.

  35. Playback Menu

    Inside the playback menu, learn how to convert RAW files in camera, delete files, and more tricks for images that you've already shot.

  36. Camera Operation Overview

    Gain some final tips on camera operation in this lesson, including a pre-shot checklist as well as how to check for dust on the sensor. John shares advice on a hierarchy of custom controls and final thoughts for getting the most out of the Fujifilm X-T2.

  37. Firmware Addendum

    In this update to the class, learn how to use the new features made possible by the version 3.21 firmware. Dive into the process for updating the firmware, the firmware history of the camera, and how to use the new features.


John Simpson

I highly recommend this class! Been shooting Nikon for 40+ years and decided to give my Nikon gear to my daughter and go the smaller and lighter Fuji X-T2 for travel. Excellent camera and this course was outstanding in helping me learn how to use the camera. I have watched a number of Nikon oriented instructional videos. This video by John Greengo is the best organized and informative presentation I have ever watched.

Monroe Nevels

We all learn from different methods. I, for one, learn best by watching you while teaching, and being able to work along side you, with my camera in hand, and then follow you. I highly recommend this class if you really want to know how to use your camera. Thank you John for helping me to relive my film days, and integrating into Digital. I now have my Fujo X-T2 programmed and I LOVE IT!

a Creativelive Student

Really appreciate John putting these Fast Start Series together. Went through part of the training waiting on my Fujifilm X-T20 to arrive, which did today. That allowed me to dive into the menu settings and get the camera ready to use. I found that we are on Firmware 3.0, so, I have some updates to get installed. The training was great and informative as always. Don't hesitate to look for his Fast Start for your particular camera, and the in-depth training on Photography Fundamentals. It is well worth your time and money to get this training, especially if you are an amateur like myself, but, thanks to John Greengo I am quickly learning to use my camera in Manual Mode, most of the time.