Olympus® E-M1 Fast Start

Lesson 2 of 12

Button Layout: Top Deck Part 1

 

Olympus® E-M1 Fast Start

Lesson 2 of 12

Button Layout: Top Deck Part 1

 

Lesson Info

Button Layout: Top Deck Part 1

First off, make sure that we have our cameras turn on you can leave them on for the rest of the day because we're going to be using a lot of features of them showed a release is not only for taking pictures but it's for waking the camera up so if the camera goes to sleep which it tends to want to do after a few minutes just tap down lightly on that shed a release the front dialogue and the back rear dialects gives me are the two main control knobs on the camera and these will have separate or sometimes identical controls depending on the features that we go through on the back of the camera we have an arrow pad which will be most commonly be used for changing, focusing points and navigating the menu system so moving up and down left and right and then the set button in the middle is going to be used for selecting items and so if you have something highlighted in you're like yes that's the one I want to do, you'll be hitting that particular button on it so we're going to start our tour ...

of the camera on the top deck and with the shuttle release so when you press halfway down it does wake the camera up if it has been asleep if the camera has been asleep for a long enough period of time, it will be going into deep slumber, in which case you have to turn the camera off and turn it back on if it's just a light sleep, you can wake it up just by pressing halfway down pressing halfway down also activates the metering system and the auto focus system on then, of course, pressing all the way down. We'll take the photo, so make sure that you are comfortable pressing halfway down photographers air also often times, leaving their finger halfway down the way a race car driver might be slightly putting the foot on the gas pedal, right? Is the lights ready to turn green? Getting ready for that picture to be taken? This camera also has a touch screen on the back and there's a lot of functions that you can do on the touch screen if you don't like touch screens, you don't really need to use it for anything if you don't want to. There are specific controls and dials on the rest of the camera, but a lot of people do like using screen and you can use that for taking pictures. In fact, I would like to do a little demo for right now, so I'm gonna turn my camera on and I'm going to see if I can maybe give a little something to focus on here in front of me, and I'm going to zoom in just a little bit don't have a lot to focus on, but you'll notice over here on the left side of the screen there is the little green touch button and it means if I touch the camera it's going to want to focus and take a picture if I touched that little green shutter release it's now in the no touch mode, which means touching the screen doesn't do anything, so I deactivated the touch screen on it. Oh, and I'm gonna go to the next one which allows me to focus but doesn't take the picture so I can change focus and then I would shoot the picture up on the top of the camera so there are three options there is the shooting option there is thie deactivated option and then they simply just focusing option and so be aware that there's a lot of things on the screen that you can touch and open up and we're going to get into what some of these other little options are on the touch screen come on, go away! There we go okay, so be aware that you could do the type screen it's ah something I wasn't used for hand held photography, but I could see using it for use on a tripod it might be just easier to touch the screen right there than the reach around and find the shed a release it's a nice little option to have all right, the mod ill on the top of the camera obviously going to be one of the most important controls on the camera. This is controlling the exposure the shutter speeds thie apertures, as well as a number of other features, so let's, take a closer look at how the mod dial works to start with let's go to the most simple mode it's the I oughta mode the intelligent auto mode and what's going on here is the camera is setting shutter speeds, apertures, esos and it's looking at what you're taking a picture of, and it is trying to figure out what's going on and trying to make a judgment call on what you need to have happen in the camera to get the best picture. The problem with this is the camera doesn't really know what you're pointed at, and so you may know that you're pointed at basketball players, but it may not understand that these people sitting on the bench are actually going to get up and start moving here in a moment. And so it's a very, very simple mode, and I think anyone who takes this class and you watch it all the way to the end and you pay attention, you're probably not going to want to use this mountain because it limits what you can do with the camera. When you go into the menu system there's going to be a bunch of items that are great out that you can't get to you know, like why this button normally is supposed to change the so and now it won't work well, you're not allowed to use it there's a lot of what I called child safety locks in this moment if you're going to hand this camera to your brother in law your sister in law your friend who doesn't know how to work your camera this is a great mode to put it in because they're not going to be able to get in and change your settings and it's good for just really simple basic picture taking now it does give you a few options in here if you do hit this ok but it's going to bring up a live guide where you can go in and change a bunch of small little settings on the camera it's too limited in my opinion for a lot of great photography but you can still get in and you can blur the backgrounds you can change kind of the way it captures motion, which is really shutter speeds and so most of the time I would just recommend just go full man you'll get in there and get your hands dirty with shutter speeds and apertures and esos this is a way to kind of lightly play with it now you can also do this with the touch screen as well. There's going to be a little arrow off to the side that you can touch and it's going to open up what kind of seems like a drawer off to the side. And you can do this as well with the tabs on the back of the camera and so let me do a little live demo with my camera here I have it in the eye auto mode. I feel personally a little guilty about having it there right now, but we have it in the eye auto mode, and so I'm gonna get the ok button and it opens up this little drawer and it's got a bunch of little graphics in there and it says right along the top what it's trying to dio so we can change the color saturation. We would hit the ok button in here and I can use the tab in the back of the camera or I can use the touch screen to scroll up and down and it's changing the saturation of that particular situation it can hit ok, let's, see if I could get back in here, I gotta hit the menu, then hit ok and so let's see if we can change the depth of field in here, so this is the blurry background option and I can go toe blurry background or and say I don't want a blurry background I want it sharp and you could actually see that background changing in its sharpness you can see the lens in the foreground is in focus and then it gets blurrier is I move it up here to the blur? The problem I have with this mode is that first off of all, first of all, manual photography could be a lot of fun and now, it's not telling me that f stops and the things that are changing in the camera so I'm not learning anything by doing this. I am getting it done with simple terms, but I'm not learning anything and it's not that hard to learn this sort of stuff, so I'm not a huge fan of michael spent a lot of time going on and doing that, but that is what that little option is for in there, okay, let's, go to the next melody art no, the art filters in this camera are kind of like instinct instagram in a really nice camera, and so in order to get to these filters, you could hit that right tab in order to get over and you know, I gotta play around I gotta learn these things, so I decided to take the camera out and try it in all the art filters and so I went over and shot it first, just a natural just to see this is what the scene actually looks like, and then pop art adds a bunch of saturated color, and then they put a soft focus filter on it for one, and then they change the contrast of it make it a little bit lighter at a little bit of grain to it, uh, put a heavy vignette ing on it kind of lower the sharpness of it, then they they blur the top and the bottom edges. This is best shot from a higher angle. If you're looking on on a balcony down it's something that makes it makes what you're looking at, like a miniature they've gone through and played around with the color they've made your traditional see pia images you're ultra contrast e version, a very unusual key line and, uh, weird watercolor wide eso those air, some of the different art filters that you can do now. That's um, if you shoot those in raw, they will be recorded as a raw j pig. We're going to get into the ron jay pick a little bit, but those were going to be a jpeg image with that effect on it, they're not going to be raw images, raw images are the original. Highest quality pure information from the sensor but if you want to play around a little bit it's there we're not going to spend any more time on it though in this class next up is the scene mode now these are going to take for the most part more natural looking photographs but with a little bit of a twist to it if you khun remember back to the I oughta where the cameras trying to figure out what you're shooting a picture of here you're giving it direct information that you are shooting sports or landscape and it will be able to make better decisions when it comes to choosing the s o shutter speed an aperture for getting better pictures I still don't recommend this mode for anyone well, you know with a camera of this level most people who own it are not going to be satisfied using this moat but if you know you said you wanted a hand the camera off to your kids and you know tell him to take some simple landscape photographs just put it in the landscape mode and you don't have to worry about teaching them photography for that one quick moment for them to take those pictures but you can go through and it's what it's going to do is it's also going to go in and change color and contrast a little bit for the photographs just to kind of tweak him a little bit and it is a simple and quick way of getting pictures that they're a little bit more like it. One thing to note about these modes is that they're not doing anything that you can't do on your own and so there's no special little magic fairy dust that on lee they put into their stuff that you can't do just going around and doing it yourself it's just a little bit quicker for people who don't know what they're doing but once you know what you're doing, you'll be able to far surpass what the camera has stored in here for you. Now a few of these modes are specifically designed to be used with some of their add on lenses now these are not interchangeable lenses for the most part these air add on lenses that you would add on to a few of their basic lenses like they're fourteen to forty two to fourteen to one fifty or the forty two one fifty lin's they have a fisheye converter, a wide angle converter in a macro converter those three are all add on lenses the three d lands the twelve point five millimeter is an interchangeable lynsey would actually mounted on the camera as supposed to mounting it on another lands which was on the cameras so they have special modes that the camera kind of wants to know that it is in if you are using any one of those lenses now those add on lenses are a slightly cheaper way of getting either more white angle or close up and they're going to sell well. Let's see the macro converters only about sixty bucks the fish eyes around one hundred seventy and there's not a lot of fish I options available for this camera and that's one of the cheaper ways of getting into a fish eye. The white converted converter is going to sell for about one hundred bucks in that case. Ok, next up is this little symbol, which is the photo story mode. So if you want to tell a story in photos not to be confused with photojournalism but somewhat related, you can, uh, do this in the photo story area and what this is going to be. Well, there's also a shortcut on the touch screen that you can get to and what you do here, and it depends a little bit on what set up you have. In this first set up. I took five different photos and the camera takes a sliver of each one and creates one image with it, so you can kind of create your own version of a panorama and there's a multiple multiple choices that you can make it here. In this one, we took two pictures and it puts one picture inside of the other and puts the date on it and so it kind of creates a different look, so if you want to create something right in camera, you don't need photo, shop or computer. Anything else, you can create something writing camera ready to go that tells a little bit of a story of multiple images within one image, not something a lot of people are trying to do, creating high quality images, but one of the additional little features that I haven't seen in, frankly, any other camera next up, we obviously have our movie mode, and so if you want to shoot movies, you khun do so it any time you want there's, a video record button on the top of the camera will talk about in a moment, but if you want to specifically shoot movies, I would recommend going to the movie mode. The camera will be a little bit better set up for shooting video in that case, and so there's our movie record button. So you're going to press that wants to start and wants to stop. There is a focus area that you can magnify using the function to button on the top so you would select the focus area, and then you would magnify with it, and then they have a weird echo shot, a one shot eco and a multi echo. And I think this is worth a little demo to show you what's going on so let's go to the camera and let me flip it over into the movie mode in the back so first off let me just show you when you start recording you'll see that there is a record symbol up in the top left and then I'm gonna hit stop wait did have a clock running in there we'll talk a little bit more about that later let's go to that focus area starting a press function number two and if I want to move the focusing area down here I can move it with my finger and choose a different area I can also use the tab on the back of the camera for focusing if I press it again, it'll magnify and if I was wanting to manually focus well actually let me try this again uh maybe it doesn't work in manual focus no, it doesn't I just learned something about that so I'm going to focus on this lens here in the foreground and if I hit it again I can go in nice and close if I want to move I guess I can't move it I got to go back to the focus area here and I kind of get locked in this loop of going back and forth between the two and then you can just hit men you correct I got a hit okay, to exit out of that. Now the echo mode let's take a look at the eco moat. You'll notice there's some graphics along the bottom here that give you a hint as to what's going on let's, do the one shot echo, which means I go to the right, and as I pan the camera back and forth, it has a slight residual image in there. Let me do the one on the bottom, which is the multi echo. And if you ever wanted to film a oh a clip that look like somebody was drug induced, this is the mode that I would want to use because it looks like we'll have getting so dizzy. Now why that is on there. I can't answer that. I can only answer how to do it, not the why. So that is the echo mode. Who? Okay, moving forward picture mel let's, talk a little bit more about what you're going to see in there. I showed you just a little bit about this before there's a little recording indicator in the top left, there is recording time down in the bottom right hand side. There are multiple different resolutions and frame rates that you can choose from in the camera in order to do that, you will need to dive into the menu cyst and if I could take just a moment here to let you know that as we go through this class, I'm going to give you a bunch of shortcuts because I know a lot of you are watching this at home and you're able to stop the class and jump forward and go make a change and so if you see a little box like this that you know says shooting menu number one if you want to go change the quality settings of the movie mode, we're going to get to it in due time in class, but if you want to stop and go do it right now, go to shooting menu number one and look a quality and then you can go in and select from any of the movie modes that are available there. I'm going to go into more detail as we go through the menu system in this class, but that's just a nice little shortcut for getting there quickly and you'll see more of those in the class. So in the motion picture my would be aware that we have two different formats we have ah dot movie format in an m j peg format that are slightly different sizes and compression ratios we have different resolutions we have full hd standard hd is, well a standard resolution if you want something lower quality that you could email to somebody a little bit more easily most tvs these days are shooting at thirty frames per second, so that's the standard, but there will be some other options available in there. The maximum file size is two gigabytes or twenty nine minutes and fifty nine seconds whatever comes first and so if you're filming a really long event, you may need to stop and restart recording for those times now at any time you want to shoot a still photograph because this is primarily a still photograph and not a video camera, you can press down on the shutter release and take a still photograph. If you do have those older four thirds lenses, which are not the micro four thirds but the kind of the earlier generation of the olympus auto focus digital lenses, you will need to manually focus them in this movie mode. And if you are not in the movie mode itself, the camera will automated automatically be set to the p mode so you could set it anywhere you want. The art mode, the scene mode, shutter priority program, anything like that, the eye automotive, the camera automatically is going to go in and set shutter speeds and apertures for you in the movie mode. If you are in the movie mode and you want to set manual exposure, I will explain how to do that when we get to that little section in the menu, but you will be able to operate the camera in a manual movie mode, but you've got to go into the menu second section to select that. Ok, let's, get to the good stuff on the camera, so p stands for program, and what that means is the camera is going to set shutter speeds and apertures for you, but nothing else. So all of those child safety locks that we talked about in the eye auto mode are no longer there, and so this is a good mode for anyone who just quickly wants to pick up the camera shoots and pictures, but possibly might want to make a change in some other feature of the camera. So while it's in the program mode, you can turn the back dial to do something called program shift in the front dial to do exposure compensation. So let me explain exposure compensation first that is simply making the picture of lighter or darker, but it's changing a combination of shutter speeds and apertures, and in some cases, you're going to want to darken the picture a little bit. In some cases you're going to want it add a little bit of exposure to it. It depends on how bright your subject is and that's, because all cameras use a standard eighteen percent great average is what they think everything is, and so this something very important for anyone who wants to use the program aperture priority or shutter priority mode if you do decide to use that exposure compensation you're going to see a indicator in the camera and this indication that you see right here would indicate one stop over exposed they actually break these stops into thirds and that's why we have a couple little marks in between this would be two stops over exposed and this would be one stop under exposed and you could go as far as three stops in either direction but normal exposure we'll be in the middle so if you do use the exposure compensation make sure you bring it back to the zero setting so let me do a little live demo on this camera here so he put it into the program mo to start with and as I said in back the back dial controls programs shift and so I'm able to adjust the f stops and the shutter speeds and the camera is figuring out the correct amount of light so at any time I want to take a picture I should get a decent quality exposure which I am getting under all these circumstances but I'm getting different shutter speeds and apertures now you do need to have an understanding of shutter speeds and apertures as to where to set it but it's very simple and quick and easy to change now as far as the exposure compensation that's going to be done with the front dial and you can see as I turn this dial, it actually says minus three and on the graphic scale it's going to be over on the minus side as well, and you can see getting darker and brighter in the image itself. Normally, once again, you're gonna leave this at zero, but depending on conditions, you may need to brighten it up or darken it up. And so if I'm pointing at our cameras against the wall over here, you'll notice that, as the cameras pointed right now, that white wall has gotten quite dark, dingy because the camera thinks it is an average of eighteen percent gray and so it's a little counterintuitive, but I'm going to go to the plus side because I want to make that wall nice and bright and what's happening is the camera takes that white wall and wants to darken it down to gray, and I'm correcting for what the camera doesn't understand. And so when I was at yellowstone national park in the winter time where it was just tons of snow everywhere, I had to have my camera around, plus two thirds of a stop to one and two thirds stop because everything was so white, if you go into a dark forest, it might be minus two thirds or minus one stop, and so just going to make sure my cameras back a zero because that's where it should normally be so that's the program note now if you want these dials can be flipped around if you don't want to do program shift in the back, you want to do it in the front there is a custom menu that we're going to get to towards the end of class where you can customize the buttons and dials as faras flipping what they do and so almost anything that you want to customize on this camera you can it's probably the most customizable camera on the market today as far as choosing how many function buttons hominy dial controls can you switch around? And so there is an almost endless number of options in the way that you have this set up, so realize that if you don't really like the way something works, you're probably going to be able to change it all right let's flip it over to the next mode, which is aperture priority. This is one of my favorite modes. This is the modi like when I'm traveling and I'm just kind of walking down the street and I don't know what my next photo is going to be I want to have my camera ready for something quick, but I want to be able to make adjustments to it and be ableto have very precise control of it so aperture priority allows us to control the aperture with the rear dialogue on the camera. The front donald stays with exposure compensation, and you can set that aperture to get more depth field or less step the field. But to be honest with you, when I'm changing the aperture, I'm looking more at the shutter speed to see where the shutter speed is to see if it's what's acceptable for hand, holding the camera or appropriate in the situation that I'm at for that particular shot. So that's, one of my favorite modes. I don't use the program mode very much that's, just kind of a quick. I don't even really care about the settings on the camera. I just wanted to take a picture right now.

Class Description


Master the functions of the Olympus® E-M1 in this comprehensive course on this powerful SLR-mirrorless camera.

The Olympus® E-M1 is one of the most customizable, portable cameras available – ready to learn how to tailor it to your needs as a photographer? Join John Greengo for a one-day course that will guide you through the features, buttons, and menus of your camera. You’ll learn why the Olympus® E-M1’s rugged, weather-resistant design makes it a perfect choice for photographers who shoot outdoors. John will guide you through hands-on exercises that will equip you to capture stunning images in any shooting circumstances.

This advanced-intermediate course will help you capture professional-quality images.

Reviews

Hal
 

John does an excellent job of making the OMD E M1 understandable. His knowledge of the camera and relaxed style clearly and painlessly walk you through the maze of buttons, menus, and functions. He objectively points out the strengths of the camera as well as those things Olympus could of done better. His opinions of the camera are consistent with other knowledgable reviewers, and are consistent with my own (limited) experience. The manual tells you every little thing the camera CAN do. John helps you understand what is important to get the best use of the camera in most situations.

user e35335
 

Three simple words, " Thank you John " I have really enjoyed the course. The OMD EM1 is a wonderful camera, and with the clear guidance of this course I feel instantly at home with all its capabilities. Clear concise instructions delivered in a faultless manner. A joy to watch.

FerOlea
 

John is a very good teacher, and this is indeed a useful class. Class material is excellent as always. But I don't think this is his best work. He seems to be too conflicted with Olympus' menu systems and design decisions (which I admit, are a bit strange) to give the students a clear picture of the full potential of their new gear. He also fiddles/struggles with the camera a bit too much in all the live demonstrations. I would recommend this class only to absolute photography beginners and not really to people with any experience.