Welcome to the m e m one faster class I know that now that there's a mouthful of a name there is logic to it. I will explain that as we we get into it but it is a fantastic camera. Olympus has come on very strong in the muralists world and they've been producing cameras that a little bit different than everyone else and they are packed filled with pete features and this, I would argue to date is their most professional camera to date. Eso it's well built it's got a ton of features and I am not a huge fan wait for it wait for it of the the way that it's organized within the menu system and I'm going to try to go through and kind of explain how that all works. We're going to go through the menu system in here, which is a big part of this class. The other things were gonna be doing in here is we're gonna be covering all the dials, all the buttons, all the controls on the outside of the camera, I'll be explaining what therefore, how to make best use of up. We're going to go through the vis...
ual the viewfinder system explain how that works as well is going through the menu system and by the end of this class your camera will be set up the way you want it to work highly recommend that as you're watching this class you simply have the camera in hand and you get to play with the camera in class you know normally your teachers told you put down your toys and stop playing you know take notes if you want to take notes that's fine but if you want to play with camera that's fine as well because you'll be learning as you go along so that's what you can expect in here now just kind of in general what this class is for it's it's all about learning the major functions of the camera everything that you need to know in order to get the highest quality images if the camera has a number of features and it does that don't relate thought getting the highest quality images I'm not going to spend as much time on that so we're not going to happen the cover everything and I'll kind of explain that as we go along so here's the layout of the class here's what we're going to be doing over the next roughly five hours herself I'm going to give you a little overview of the whole olympus camera system we're going to go through a few photography basics just for those who are kind of new to this world of serious photography we're going to be going through all the controls, all the buttons, all the dials you we're going to know what everything does on the camera we will go into the menu system and we're going to go completely through the menu system. I'll be giving you recommendations on where and how to set up everything in the menu, and one of the things about this class is that we do have as part of the class when you purchase it, you get a pdf download, which is a multi page outline of the class it's a it's, a general outline. It's got a lot of the graphics, a lot of the kind of the specific technical things that I have to say in here, but as you get towards the back of it, it's got ah, hold it up for you guys over here. It's got a listing of the entire menu system on one page, which I find really handy because a lot of times I'm looking for a specific thing, and I look for that word, and I can scan the entire page very, very quickly, and I have given you my recommendations as a good starting place for settings on all your menu items and because I know that everyone is a little different. I have included a second page that doesn't have my recommendations at all that's blank that you can write in your own things so that if you want to write in where you normally like to have things set you can take this page, rip it out or printed out and then fold it up and put it in your camera bag so you always have quick reference to it also in here some people like is thirds thief and very last page is my recommended settings for different types of photography like sports photography or landscape or portrait shooting where you would set the most important controls on the camera so that's a handy little guide and if you do have the class, print that out and keep it handy is you're going through the class so you can take notes and put your own notations on that as we go through all right, so let's get into this now when you get this camera, you're going to get this fairly large instruction manual that doesn't exactly have everything in it, but it does have a lot of stuff in it and this class is not a complete substitute for the instruction manual, although it's going to cover pretty much everything that's important in that manual it's just that there's going to be a few other technical details you may wanna have reference to in that manual so don't quite throw it away, yet it still has some purpose to it also be aware that this is not a photography one o one class I'm sorry to disappoint you, but I will not be explaining how depth of field works we'll talk about it a little bit but we're going to stay concentrated on the features functions of this camera in particular if you are interested in a photography class well I have some recommendations as we get through the class but be aware we're concentrating on just the e m one in this class well first off if you are new to olympus like to welcome you to the olympus family they have been around for quite a while they did start making cameras quite some time ago back in nineteen thirty six they started with their first camera now I tell you this history because it does play into where they are today and the products that they have available today nineteen fifty nine they came out with the olympus pin and it was a very, very small camera for the time very portable camera and that is something that olympus has been notable for throughout the years including their slr system the o m siri's which started back in nineteen seventy three they really wanted to have something that was very small and lightweight and if you compared it to the competitors of the day like night cons and cannons it was definitely smaller and lighter than those cameras also if I could just throw another appointed it had a really good view finder it was one of the other things they were noticed for now the oh of course stands for olympus and that I am, as best I can tell, stands for men, and I'm not trying to pronounce it, but my tiny or martini, it was the designer of the olympus camera, so if you're wondering where the om comes from, that's what it stands for, and then they continued making cameras through the eighties and nineties and they started going into the digital market, what's kind of interesting is that in the late eighties and early nineties, they never really made the transition with their sl ours into the world of auto focus, and they're one of the camera companies that kind of got left behind canon, nikon, pentax and minolta, where the mainstays throughout the late eighties and nineties and all of this kind of bypassed the whole digital s r slr world. They went straight into the digital world in nineteen ninety six remember their first camera coming out point three megapixels on. We're just so excited to be able to see in the instant picture in that digital realm in two thousand three, they kind of reinvigorated and started up the interchangeable lens division again, and they came out with a four thirds format lends system. I'm going to talk more about this as we get into the exact system on this camera, but interchangeable lenses, auto focus and digital was revolutionary in many ways for the time. It did not sell well, though, for ah problem of it being just a little too big for what it wass and so they kind of went back to the drawing board and they decided to redesign it, and in nineteen in two thousand nine, they introduce what's called the micro four thirds and it's kind of the return of the penn camera. So if you go back to that earlier penn camera, it has a very similar styling to it, as well as a similar size to it. And right now, look, this is doing pretty good as far as their offerings from in a variety of cameras and options available. So it's a it's a good company to be with because there's a lot of options both in lenses and in general accessories. Now the system that they have that they're working with on this camera is in a greater sense called the four third system. This was started in partnership with panasonic and a couple of other manufacturers that have had smaller dealings with the four third system and what's unique about the four third system is for stop the size of the sensor it's quite a bit smaller than your traditional thirty five millimeter film or your full frame sensor and digital cameras, they went with this to make the cameras more affordable and smaller in size. The name also comes from the aspect ratio of the censor it is four to one side and three on the other so it's way it's called a four thirds ratio the full frame or thirty five millimeter frame has a little bit longer skinnier frame at one by one and a half and the four thirds in my opinion works much better if you're shooting verticals matches up very closely with an eight by ten aspect ratio which a lot of people here in the united states like for enlargements it's not quite as good for shooting landscapes and horizontal is because it's got a little bit more of a box he looked to it but that's just simply my opinion on it the other thing that's unique about it is the lens mouth there is a four thirds lens mount and one of the beauties of this system is that you could buy an olympus camera and you can buy a panasonic lands and it works perfectly auto focus exposure everything works just as you would hope it would full compatibility between them and there are even other manufacturers that will be making lenses and there's a few out there but not many that you could get some aftermarket lenses that will work on this as well. Now as I said olympus started off with what called the four third system this was an slr system and it was just a little bit smaller in size but had a much smaller image sensor, which means the image quality was quite a bit behind where the cannons and night cons were, for instance, and so you do have to be careful because there was this earlier for third system, and now we're on the micro for third system. So, for instance, there is a fourteen to forty two lens that is thie, four thirds and the micro four thirds. And so if you're picking up a lens on ebay or used or on a real big sale at a store, make sure that you're getting the right type of lens for your camera because some of the older lenses don't work straight on the camera. These earlier cameras were, as I say, slr camera single lens reflex is, which means they had a mere in the camera. It bounced the light upward to a prison system and out the viewfinder, so you've got to see straight through the lands, but that made for a fairly large cameras, so what they decided to do is to remove the mere removed the prism system and reduce the size of the camera on. What happened then is that the lens mt got much closer to the image sensor made the cameras quite a bit smaller, they're able to make the lens is smaller, and now you had a really distinct size advantage versus the larger sl ours. And this is a micro for thirds camera which is also known as a mirror less camera now be clear that the differences between the four thirds and the micro four thirds can be a little confusing they have the exact same size sensor they have the same lens mount however it uses different lenses because they mount a different distance from the sensor if you do have some of those older lenses and they made some really nice looking lenses you would need to use this mm f three adapter from olympus it sells for around one hundred sixty dollars and allows you to use four thirds lenses on a micro four thirds camera one of the great things about having the marylise camera is that short mount distance from the lens to the sensor and there are a wide variety of adapters for you to use other older lenses from different camera systems so you can use almost any lens that's ever been made on this camera if you have the right adapter there's a lot of very very good adapters out there at a very wide variety of prices as you can see there was also something called a meta bones speed booster which works like a tele converter in reverse and it takes the large image circle designed for a full friend camera and kind of condenses it down to the four third sensor so that you get pretty much the same angle of view with the cameras you did on a thirty five it's a little different but it's pretty close and it also adds a stop a light because rather than spreading the light over the full frame censor it concentrates it just on the fourth third sensor it's a unique device you're not going to see a lot of amount there but it does allow you to use older lenses near the same focal length or angle of you that you had before with a one stop light gathering capability so very, very cool device in my opinion currently the micro four thirds family has two different siri's of cameras it has the pen siri's and these air basically cameras that do not have viewfinders to these air extraordinarily small cameras in many cases that use interchangeable lenses and they share the exact same lenses with the omd siri's and the omg siri's is called that just simply because it kind of heralds back to those nineteen seventy in nineteen eighties cameras and has a somewhat similar look to it they have a bit more of a grip and of course on these they all have elektronik viewfinders so that you could hold the camera right up to your eye you can view under very bright light conditions now the family is still kind of small in my opinion they had the e m five which came out about two years ago and was hugely popular it's actually, one of my most popular classes here, a creative live there were so many people who bought that camera, it just kind of really broke a lot of new grounds, and what they've done from the m five is they've moved forward, and they basically split the line into, and they wanted to go up and have a higher quality model, which is the e m one, which will be talking about, and then they wanted to have a smaller light, a great model that had some of the new features of the m one, and they came out with the ten, and so the m five in the ten are pretty similar in size and general capabilities, but I'm told by olympus that if you want kind of the the most common class, if you have an e m ten, you want to be watching this class it's actually better and more relevant to your camera than the five so still undecided? If I'm going to have an e m ten class, we're going to still see how that camera does. So that's what's going on in the olympus family now, on the your camera here, when you get that instruction manual, you're going to get it going to get all sorts of warnings about what not to do, don't operate, you're cameron a hospital on other things that if you just shouldn't do with your camera. It's kind of obvious. One thing that people have a question about is getting water on their camera. This camera is listed as dust splash and freeze proof. I'm not sure exactly why you would want to put your camera freezer, but I can understand. Wanting to shoot under very low temperatures. I was in yellowstone recently where it was minus thirty nine degrees. And so it's. Good to have a camera that can work in the coal s so it is a well built camera. What are things I want to show? If we can get one of the cameras on the camera right here? I want to show you a little detail about the weather proofing of this. Is that the camera or the lenses? Have these rubber rings around the edges that are waterproof on that's, one of the little seals that's going on. And if you can see it very well. But there's a very, very small rubber seal right here. And if we look at another lands that does not have it, it does not have that rubber seal around it. There are lenses that are weatherproof, and there are lenses that are not, and if you have a lens that is not weather proved. Then the whole system is not whether because water can get within that scene, and so having that little rubber seal is something to look for. There's not a lot of lenses that fit in that category, but they are out there their don't like leaving that sensor exposed to want to get dust in there. So a ce faras the weatherproof nous just don't go too far with it, I if you're going to shoot in the rain for an extended period of time, I would probably still want to have some sort of rank cover on it. Okay, let's hope you're ready for today's class. You need to have charged your battery last night, I charged mind is going to be using it all day today takes about four hours to charge. You're going to get a little over three hundred shots, your mileage may very depending on how much battery or depending on how much video use you d'oh, how you have the camera, set up health and you look at your pictures and you go through your menu system but should get three to three hundred fifty, three hundred, three hundred to three hundred fifty shots. Go ahead, make sure that your lenses attach you got a memory card in there will be shooting some practice pictures may be in here. And it kills me to say this, but you can turn your camera to the eye auto mode, which is the super simple mode, and darren, you can follow along with your camera in here and go ahead and just take a picture. I'm going to take a picture of your daring, and you can take a picture of me if you want. I just want to make sure that cameras are working and let's, make sure I get this an auto focus here, all right, everything working on your end it, sir. Ok, we've got a nod there, that's. Good. Okay, so for the next few minutes, you can just relax, all right? You don't need to worry about taking too many notes. I just want to go through some basics, some fundamentals of photography and I'll be honest with you folks. I have totally stolen all of this material from another class of mine called fundamentals of digital photography. If you want to know more about photography here's a little bit of what you get in that class kind of tailor for this camera. So we have an interchangeable lens camera that is a mere lis camera that we've been talking about, so we have very high quality lenses, which is one of the great parts about this system here in the lens we have an aperture that can very in size we can kind of open it up and close it down. If we could look straight through the lands. This is what it would look like as we change our f stops or our apertures, and each time we close it down we're letting in half assed much light as we open it back up, we're letting in twice a smudge tch light with each setting change that we make on the lands. And so this is the first way of controlling light that comes in the camera beyond controlling the amount of light. It also controls the depth of field or how much is in focus so you can see here at one point for we have very shallow depth the field as we start changing our aperture, those red hash marks over on the right side start growing and mohr of that yardstick is coming in focus with each setting change it's not a huge difference, but it does continue to grow as we get down to f twenty two, which in the case of this lens is maximum depth of field so that's all going on in the lens down the marylise camera light comes straight back to the image sensor and it is fed electronically to the lcd in the back of the camera I like the lcds on the back of the camera cause they're really good for judging general composition and overall content within the image but they are not good for judging sharpness of focusing or depth of field that can show you the depth of field fairly well but it's the sharpness that it doesn't do a very good job at and they're terrible under bright sunlight and so if you have sunlight shining on the back your camera it's going to be very hard to judge the exposure of what's going on so the big benefit on this camera is a very high quality elektronik viewfinder and e v f as they are known so normally I would recommend using the vf when you are generally shooting photos it will actually keep the camera in a steady or position but it's easier to see especially under bright light conditions now what's going on at the level of the sensor is kind of interesting so let's take a closer look at this so light is normally just coming straight in and hitting the sensor and it had the camera has to shutter curtains it has a first and second curtain so when you press the shutter release what has to happen is that the first curtain has to close so that the sensor can prepare itself to capture the image and we now open the exposure this is the actual picture you're taking as the second curtain then closes then for you to see the next image, the second curtain needs to open again, so both curtains need to clothes and then re open again. So there's, a lot of shutter movement going on in the camp. Now, of course, the shutter can control the amount of light coming into the sensor as well. We have fast shutter speeds for stopping action like a whale breaching out of the water. Five hundredth of a second is a good shutter speed for stopping fast human action. So sports dance things like that five hundred or faster is a good place to be one hundred twenty fifth of a second. Pretty pedestrian shutter speed, you might say, for stopping some camels walking in the desert. We start getting into the slow shutter speeds around a thirtieth of a second, so if you have something that's moving pretty quick, you're going to be getting some blurring. In this case, the camera is on a tripod, and you can see how much blurring is you get from people walking at one eighth of a second. If you want to get those blurry shots of waterfalls and rivers, you get that very easily. If you go all the way down to one second and if you like to do nighttime photography. Well, then you might want to be in the fifteen to thirty second range so that you can let in enough light to let those stars shine through up there in the corner or do a little light painting with a flashlight so that's what's going on on the sensor level within the camera and that is basically how the muralist camera works nice little system there keeps the camera very small using that elektronik viewfinder. Now the sensor in the camera is very important in the size of it. There was lots of different cameras on the market and there are lots of different sensor sizes, which kind of determined the overall quality, the capabilities and limitations of the camera. And so we're not going to worry about the small ones in this class, but right now the largest ones out there the four thirds thie, a ps and the full frame censor the full frame is based of course off thirty five millimeter film, which was a very good film size for a lot of different reasons and there are a few cameras that do have the full frame censor. It does make for a bigger size camera, but it does enable it to work under low light very well. This has a crop factor of one point on which is another way of saying it's the same size as thirty five millimeter film another way to measure these is the diary diagonal of the sensors, so forty three millimeters compared to the smaller a ps system, which is twenty eight millimeters across and that's used by a lot of the cannons and icons pentax is sony's fuji's probably the most popular of the models out there, and the four thirds is a little bit smaller it's twenty two millimeters across and for the current crop of digital cameras on the market, I just kind of consider these the large, medium and small options and between one size and the next size up or down it's a pretty close competition if you're jumping all the way from four thirds up to full frame it's hard to compete with the image quality because there is quite a bit of difference in overall area of that sensor, but four thirds has a number of smaller size products that he just don't find with the full frame options quick little note on attaching the strapped to your camera I want to make sure that you do it right. I see a lot of people that have it done wrong, but if you are using a traditional strap, make sure that the tail end of that strap is on the underside of that little buckle or scrap adjuster. That way pressure is pushing down on it and it's less likely to slip out next up holding your camera there and pick your camera and hold it in your hands if you're going to take a picture, I want to see how you're holding your camera. Okay, everybody take a look at how he's holding that camera and he wins a prize, I think because he's holding it correctly, there are a couple different ways of holding the camera and if you put your thumb on the bottom it's not as good as it is on top telling this to students for quite some while. And kenneth today brought in if we could get a shot over here on the side of the table way got this great little guide for shooting pictures and this was done. Kennedy, you know, when this was produced d'oh it's nineteen seventy eight and do we actually have a we have a price on here, it's a dollar fifty and wait for the cameras to get over on this. But the fun thing is that you know, my aunt just brought me this from my grandmother's house in miami and it's the same stuff we're teaching today. But this is back, you know, back in the day. And so I was looking through this this morning and just go just a couple of pages in and take a look at the picture of the guy here holding the camera what's the correct way and if you read it down here he's got it. The thumb on the underside is the incorrect way this is the wrong way and hold it. This is the correct way to hold it and you know, just I got the same slides today. Is that it's funny to see this? So I want to show you that and the reason for this, why don't you want to hold it like this? A lot of people who don't know about cameras do you just kind of picked him up and hold them like this? And I guess that's the comfortable position when you first grab it. But the problem is, is that your elbow doesn't have support down here it's going to have support? Also you khun support the camera in the base of your left hand and your fingers can have more fine tune control for the focusing and zooming. So you're not trying to support the weight and turn something here you can have a little bit more delicate and fine tune controls, as I say, and so it may seem a little less comfortable at first, but you'll totally get used to it, and you'll look like a pro when you use your camera that ok, let me give a couple of words to you on screen here, take a look at these words, and tell me which one of these words do you like? Some people like everything automatic? I don't want to have control of anything. Well, in this camera, there is tons of different controls where you can let the camera choose to make decisions for you, or you can do him yourself, and you can work your camera however you want, it is your camera, but I think one of the reasons a lot of people are taking a class like this is that they want to learn how to do it manual, and I can tell you from doing this for the last twenty five years. It's fun doing things in manual, I like being able to make these decisions, because if the final picture is important to you and you know what you're doing, you have time to do it. It's great to be able to make those decisions, and this camera does give you full manual control, but it's, good to know how to set some things an automatic, because sometimes you just don't have time to fuss with it, and you just want to take the picture on dso realized as we go through the options on the camera, that there are some variables that you're going to maybe want to start with a little bit of automation. But then start gradually getting more and more manual inm or more different categories as we go along the line.