you call it tab because I'm also used in teaching butter shop and there it would be in cameras a little tab the details section over here with the detail section this is where you can apply sharpening and where you can apply noise reduction and so it could be an important town the first thing to realize is that what default settings photoshopped will sharpen your pictures without you having to do anything with raw files if they're not wrong files that I don't believe it usually sharpens them and if he needed some extra sharpening you'd have to manually move this up but it's actually a good thing that it sharpening your images because most cameras actually produce a slightly softer image and it has to do with a couple things one of which is there's usually a filter in front of the sensor that actually softens the image for first on technical reasons in this compensates for it but I find that usually it sharpens the entire picture and oftentimes that can exaggerate any noise that might b...
e in it especially if you happen to have something like a simple blue sky this is going to sharpen every detail in that blue sky even if there was no like usable detail it's just solid blue sky well if there's a hint of noise in that sky it's going to show up more because of this so the first thing to know about sharpening is that you don't have to have it apply to the entire picture there is a setting in here called masking in masking with limit which areas of the image are sharpened in order to see what masking does you need to hold down the option key ultima windows when you click on it and if you do it will change your view of the picture so I'll do that right now when the view that you see is white it means that those areas would be sharpened anything that's white will be sharpened but as you bring the masking slider up higher and higher you will see more and more areas within this picture turning black black areas will not be sharpened and so I could bring this up and try to get it to not sharpen the majority of the sky that's there if that's what I thought would be good for this image and only those areas where you see white would it be sharpened and that's where the edges of all the important detail it's this could be useful sometimes on faces as well you might be able to bring this up until somebody's face the smooth areas of their skin turn black so it's not sharp and you're not going to exaggerate the little creases and other things in their face but you'll still sharpen their eyelashes their teeth their hair all that type of stuff but any time you have something with an overly simple sky in it I almost always come down to the masking slider hold on the option key and I'll bring it up until the majority of the sky turned black in this case it's not a simple of a sky I'm talking about a blatantly blue sky that's when that I'll bring it up and then the other thing is we might bring that up first to make sure we're not sharpening too much of the image but if the image was shot either at ojai I also setting ronon older camera and you brightened up the dark portion of the image the dark portion of images where all the noise is hiding and we're going to have to deal with it if you on leave you your image at this size words fit in window you'll never usually notice the noise well let's see what this image looked like in its original form if I hit the reset button you see how dark it used to be in this image was shot with an older camera as we get new and newer cameras to get better and better with having lower noise so this one's a bad one just think but because if you see how dark this area used to be down in here and if I choose undo the end result how bright it wass if we zoom up there I know there's going to be some noise now first off I'm going to reset any noise and sharpening settings so you can see what it might look like with default settings and let's move around in here see we can find an area that might be the best look at well look in here now if I want to do noise reduction first thing I'm going to do is actually just my sharpening I'm going to make sure that I'm not sharpening too much of the image I'll look into this area and if I see any part of it where I don't see useful detail for instance this wall I see the tiniest hint of useful detail right here meaning detail it's actually in the picture that's not noise but right here I see next to nothing it's just like a blank wall so I'm gonna make sure that this area turns black in the preview for my sharpening and it's okay if I get a little bit around here where I can actually see detail so ah hold option bring this up see it's starting to turn black keep going and probably too about right there then it's still sharpening where the edge is work is it was white in those spots but it's no longer sharpening this and I'm not sure if you'll be able to see the difference or not but I'll double click on the masking slider to reset it to zero to see if you can see how much the sharpening I was exaggerating what we had so here goes double click yeah I can see more pronounced noise in the wall of his stare at it compared to bring it up here just looks softer as they bring it up it's sure it's hard to see in the compressed video because the video feed that goes out the compression really makes it hard to evaluate noise and sharpness but you khun tried on some of your own images then if we need to reduce or eliminate noise we have this area down here called noise reduction and in there we have luminant in color if when you look up at your image you just see little specks that seemed very in brightness then you want to go for the luminant slider if on the other hand what you see is something that almost looks like christmas tree lights suspects of all these random colors then you want to come down to the color slider instead I'm going to bring up the luminant slaughter while I look at this and see how far we need to go before I either reduce the noise enough where it's not a problem or I can eliminate it enough to maybe about their if I double click on the slider I can see the before click again see the after and if I turn off the little light switch at the very top of here I could see with no noise reduction whatsoever I can even see the multicolored specs in there or with our noise reduction we've applied it's looking a lot cleaner now sometimes when you do this you're going to find that you just have an unusual kind off how would I describe it modeled look let me see if I can find an image that will be bad enough to have it uh this image here and we see what the original happened look like just take a moment for the load I'm going to hit reset let's see what our original look like just a little bit bland and afterwards but this image if I zoom up on it I can see a good amount of noise if I end up it's actually already had noise reduction done if I turn this off can you see a bunch of noise in there and you also see what I call christmas tree lights I see magenta and green and all sorts of little specks of color so I'll turn in my noise reduction back on let me get us to default settings here and so the first thing I'm going to do is make sure that my masking is not exaggerating the noise in right here I cannot see any useful detail I don't see anything that looks like it's actually part of the building until I hit the lighter area here then I could see some little lines of detail and other things but right there I can't so I'm going to make sure when I come down here to sharpening I hold on the option key I bring this up until the area that did not have any useful detail any noticeable detail that actually came from the picture turns black just so we're not exaggerating it and with an image that is extreme like this one because it's got a lot of noise in it you might have to bring it up quite a distance that I'm going to bring up the luminant slider and see if I can reduce that noise I don't know that I want to completely get rid of it so I think they image is going to look a bit soft if I do but when I bring it up I can reduce it a considerable amount then there's a slider called detail and with detail the higher you bring it up the mauritz going try to bring back true detail from within the picture but if you bring it up to high you'll find some of the noise comes back as well so you want to find the highest setting that does not bring back uh noise we have a contrast slider and you'll find with a lot of images you'll never notice what the contrast slaughter does but there are a few images where when you have these very subtle changes in the image that boosting up the contrast will help it will try to emphasize whatever detail is left in there but you'll find with a lot of images you just about notice nothing happening with it but below that we have our color sliders and on this image I don't see any christmas tree lives which means little specks of random colors but I do see what I might call some modeling where I can see almost a hint in this area about this big of a greenish tone and then an area about this big of magenta and stuff just a little hint of little kind of big blobs of color where it's very subtle well there's a control here called smoothness which if I bring it up even those out let me see if I bring it all the way down if you can see it a little more aiken seymore little blobs of green bigger blobs of magenta it's rather subtle I doubt you can see it too well on the on the end result but if I bring this up that will end up helping smooth out those larger color issues and so the noise reduction can be helpful to really get into this and make it more usable I just try to first make sure that sharpening and it's not exaggerating the problem all right well with that I would like to switch over to photo shop so let's get into photo shop and let's talk about things that are not as easy to do in light room sometimes there are some things you want to fix sometimes there are uh composites you want to make you want to combine again together multiple images it really depends on your style of what you need to do so first I'm going to open an image and I believe this image has an issue this is an hd our image where I merged together at least three exposures in order to be able to get the blue sky to appear up here usually that would be blown out toe white and to also get the detail where the sun is falling onto the wall here it's kind of casting a beam of light coming down and I like the look of the image overall that I can see the blue sky and I can see that but if I zoom up close it just looks like there's some odd things going around around the edge I can see different colors almost like little bands of color there now sometimes when you have extreme differences and brightness like you have here that when you shoot your hdr instead of having two stops of a difference between shots having one stop of a difference can make this somewhat smoother but it's mainly when you have an extreme of brightness like this where the sun's blatantly hitting this and this is actually really dark when you're standing there the difference so I'm going to take that image I'm going to choose photo at it in and I'm gonna edit it in photo shop I can either edit the original because this is actually a tiff file it's not the original raw that's the only reason this came up if it was the original what raw it would have just open it in photo shop I'll choose that original and in this particular case it looks like that is a tiff file that is the actual hdr it looks a little odd here that's because the processing that was being done in light room didn't transfer over here it's kind of an oddity so if that happens then take over here and see if I could go back a light room in this time instead of saying to do the original if it allows me to do it with light room adjustments that means light room will actually finish the processing on the image so let's see here edit a copy with light room adjustments because that was actually the tiff file that you do the merging with and if I said original it opened it up without the adjustments that light room applied I just wasn't aware what kind of file it was so but if that ever happens with an image that's in h e r to say don't edit the original instead include your life from adjustments because you actually processed in light room and you need to keep those now let's assume up on this and take a look right here so sometimes they end up with color issues and here's one way of fixing them in a photo shop I'm going to create a brand new empty layer but I know we haven't really talked about layers but for what we're doing here we're only going to use very simple ideas when it comes to the layers on this project so I go to my layers panel and just next to the trash can is the new layer icon going to click on that and then I'm going to grab my paintbrush tool from the left side of my screen so about the paint and I need to choose what color I want to paint with and I'm going to choose a color out of the image so if you look here I want to choose let's say the color is either down and here in the shadowy area or maybe a color up in here from the bright area in whenever you're in a painting tools there's a trick and that is if you hold on the option key and click you grab a color right out of your picture to paint with any time you're in any painting tool if you hold on the option can click you'll grab whatever colors right underneath your mouse and it's just a convenient way of grabbing colors to paint with the problem is if I paint right now I'll cover up my picture I don't want that to happen well that's why we ended up creating a layer here I'm going to put my paint on that layer so I just need to make sure that layer is active I'll come down here and paint it still is going to cover up my image but then what I could do is change the menu that's right above the layer it's a menu that's usually set to normal this knows the blending mod menu if I change that menu there's a choice in it near the bottom that's called color in what that choice means is apply the color that I've painted with but keep the brightness of the original picture and so right now it's completely covering up the image but when I choose color it's only putting in the color it's leaving the brightness alone and so if I turn this layer off and on so you can see before and after you see the kind of rainbow of colors in here and when I turn it on they changed to the colors I painted with that so I'm going to do that in a few areas just option click in here to say I want to grab this color might get a smaller brush and just painted across and just continue options option clicking every once in a while so that you vary in the color that you're applying we could do that but that's not an unusual thing when it comes to hdr images on occasion wherever there's an extreme of brightness like a really bright area touching a really dark area sometimes you end up with a weird color variation and this is one method for changing it I'll grab it color from outside this time crab color from here now if you look at that area and I turn off this layer you'll see before can you see the variation and color all the way around turn it back on after and it's not as noticeable so I just need to do that to the other choices that air here like here I see a hint of red I'll copy from in here just painted into that edge and it maintains the brightness on ly changes the colors I wanted to cover that because we had gotten into hdr and that's one thing that allocation can happen and it's not something that's easy to figure out how to do on your own unless you're used to photoshopped you used all these features
After catching parts of each of the three days, I knew that I would need to have access to this wealth of information. What is great about the program is the ability to stop and go back over something that is not fully understood...and be able to do that until confident enough to move on. I saw no "fluff" in the course, just great information imparted with a style that is makes it easy to understand. CreativeLive scored a big hit with this course! The bonus material is SO valuable, especially the presets. That saves an enormous amount of time for me. My appreciation of the power behind the software is becoming ever clearer. Thanks, Ben, for another outstanding presentation!
Shannon Beelman Photography
Ben has been amazing! He is a wealth of information on organizing images as well as great tips to make your travel images pop just a little more. I came into this class feeling like I had a good handle on lightroom and have come out with a better understanding of the power of the software to make artistic life easier. He covers tips, tricks and little known options that help make workflow smother.
I have sat here watching as much of the free broadcast as I can and in this last week I have gotten control over years of images in my lightroom. This is one I know I will be buying soon.
Great class! Somehow, it was enjoyable not having Ben default to "curves for everything"! I don't think the title for this course did it justice, tho. This class was 90% Light Room and 10% Photoshop. I was very happy to discover that dynamic and equally as happy to purchase this course! If you are new to Light Room, this class is a MUST. Creative Live offers several LR classes but this is the one to own. Ben is working on his new book about Light Room Mastery - can't wait! In the meanwhile, I'll be watching Ben's thorough approach to LR in this video. So, don't let the title throw you a curve ball, if you are new to Light Room or a seasoned user, there's plenty of great information - delivered as only Ben can! Thanks CL for this great class!