Fit and Alter the Sleeve

 

Tailored to Fit: The Palmer/Pletsch Tissue Fitting Method

 

Lesson Info

Fit and Alter the Sleeve

Now we'll fit the sleeve and see how that looks a little nod, okay here, okay wave from the elbow, the elbow dark, not quite at the elbow, so we need to move, shorten the sleeve above the elbow and it's definitely snug, but I'm going to do the shortening first because we want to take care of one for we add a different line and then we'll check to see if it needs to be shortened below the elbow, so I'm going to draw a line below the line that's on the pattern on a fitted sleeve, especially if it has an elbow dart or elbow ease. They usually put a lengthening and shortening line above the elbow and below the elbow so that the elbow can be in the elbow zone. Some people are longer and the upper arm and some people are longer in the lower arm and some people are opposite and some people are even so there's, not a just a bit cold on one line. I like too discreet on the line kind of finger press and you have a creased flying to bring to your next line. It just makes it easier, and in this pa...

rticular case, the grid doesn't really matter you can work on a plain piece of paper if you want is your drawing straight lines on the tissue? I didn't unpack in the dark because if you try to do it with the dart pendant it does put some shaping in that area where we want to be straight okay it's a little long still about an inch below the elbow so she's equally short above and below the elbow and the elbow the pin is right there were good and I can't couldn't really pinch anything in the full upper arm so we'll do a full of her arm alteration and adam about an inch and a quarter I'm marking with dots right directly on the board but I'm riding right on top of the blue lines I'm not marking on the table you decide on an inch and a quarter fill up our arm you know like a pinch a little there was a little bit there but you want enough ease to move in but it's also personal how much ease and if it were being made in a net you'd probably want other lessees little maurin woman so again it's personal personal about an inch yeah okay this particular pattern has lines marked on it going from the bottom to the top and across that under armed toe under arm that's the lines we use for adjusting the sleeve we don't cut outside of the pattern I'm going to cut from the him to the dot at the cap of the sleeve and from the center of the arm to the under arm scene. Now, this alteration if you are planning on doing the short sleeve, it's easiest to do the alteration before you cut off the short sleeve, because the alteration actually goes to the wrist, so if you have a short sleeve pattern, you have to imagine that the other part of the sleeve is attached, so I'm gonna put the wrist at a grid line and anchor it that's the only anchor now I'm going to spread say we spread a half inch on either side that would be giving it an inch at the bicep line. Further, I'm gonna go just that we bit further, so we're doing on like an inch and a quarter. Now these overlap, so you're not adding anything to the circumference of the cap of the sleeve. You're not splitting it through the top of the cap because then you'd have to gather in. Do you have now a bigger sleeve? Then you have the arm hole, so this technique doesn't change the size of the arms I it just changes the wit at the full upper arm. Some people need room through the wrist and that case you would cut all the way through the him and widen my mother had a mastectomy when she was like fifty, and one arm became, um more swollen than the other two normal thing with the mastectomy when they take out the lymph nodes so this wrist was two inches bigger than this wrist so I had to do for her left this'll even a right sleeve that way they were equal distance from her wrist so you couldn't tell that one arm was bigger than the other is much and then it was comfortable so in that case I was going all the way through the wrist and widening just like anything else we slipped the tissue in that and this pattern does have a short length on it that's the short sleeve point so if you were only going to make the short sleeve this point you could cut off the extra long part I would put back on the envelope in case I decided to do the long sleeve it a different occasion but just remember that the only point you anchor is the wrist and if you're doing a pattern that's just a short sleeve you're if you swing this out you're making it wider at this part of the sleeves you're changing the shape of the sleeve so you have to visualize coming back to the risk that zero back together here and check sometimes if you're doing marathon sewing and you want to make you know pin fits several patterns impudent to them and fabric for you so you'll run out of pins so you like doing that ground by several boxes, or if you're teaching nancy, right, go through a lot of pins. So now we have these looks to be the right length. So now we have a sleeve. Next work, blue skirt.

Class Description


Don’t settle for clothes that don’t fit! Learn how to customize patterns so they are perfectly suited to your body type in Tailored to Fit: The Palmer/Pletsch Tissue-Fitting Method with Pati Palmer and Marta Alto

Pati and Marta have spent over 30 years developing the Palmer/Pletsch Tissue-Fitting Method and in this class they will show you how it works. 

You’ll learn: 
  • A better way to fit yourself, eliminating the need to take so many body measurements  
  • Identify the areas of your pattern that need adjustment 
  • Tips for fitting a sheath dress (both bodice and skirt) to your body type 
Pati and Marta will help you sew for your real-world curves. You’ll learn how to adjust a pattern to fit a large bust, a sway back, rounded shoulders, a broad back, and many other common features. They will share techniques developed over three decades of sewing that are guaranteed to lend a tailored look. 

Learn how you vary from a standardized pattern and alter the tissue to fit you using the Palmer/Pletsch Tissue Fitting Method. After watching Pati and Marta at work, you'll be able to customize patterns so your handmade garments look and feel awesome.  

Reviews

user-7c3291
 

This is one of the best courses I have taken online; I just wish you had the ability to make notes or tabs so you could refer back to certain sections more easily. I have met and followed Pati Palmer for many years but this was my first experience listening to Marta Alto and I see why they work so well together. Thank you both for sharing your many years of experience. It was interesting to hear Pati's history on many things and I really loved Marta's sense of humour it makes watching so much more fun!

Rose Mellor
 

Love this program! Being able to watch the lessons multiple times is like taking the class over and over. For those of us who have a hard time learning something new this is sensational. Thank you, thank you, thank you. Rose Mellor

Janice Holding
 

Having had the book (Fit For Real People) for some time I still couldn't quite get my head around tissue fitting. This course was so well presented that it was like a light bulb going on in my head. Tissue fitting is so much clearer to me now and, of course, I can re-visit the lessons whenever I want ... all in all a fantastic course and I highly recommend it!