Tools for Tissue Fitting and Measuring High Bust
Patty showed you the slide of the supplies that you'll need to alter your patterns, and so I'm just going toe repeat a lot of that. I like a big folding cardboard, and this is one of those great big ones it's like twenty dollars at the fabric store and it's folded in thirds, and this works really well on your kitchen counter, so if you have a on that's a nice height toe workout rather than on the dining room table when you're bent over more and you need a ruler of some sort, I really love the one inch wide rulers I used because we use a lot of one inch seems that makes it really easy to mark the scenes, but you can use any ruler that you have you need a seam gage or something that measures five eighths. I like this little tool because this is a nice, accurate fi bates right here and sometimes the same gauge isn't actually five eighths. I've found that to be the case, and patty mentioned you can use the five eighths inch wide tape measure to mark places. This tape measure isn't five eig...
hths, so make sure that your tape indeed measures five eight you'll need one inch elastic, which we put around the waist and what we do is pull the velcro on it makes it really easy to put it around. Some pins and we really like the magnetic pin cushion because it makes it it's easy to get the pins we really like extra fine glass head pins, which you confined at your fabric store. This box has two hundred fifty of them and this box has one hundred so sometimes and actually this I think was a better deal, which was ironic you'll need something to mark with. I really like the primary pencils to mark on the pattern paper they mark without tearing and makes it really easy, but for our purposes today I'm going to be marking the pattern with magic marker and that's because we want you to be able to see what I'm doing and to do that I have to put paper underneath the pattern papers I won't marks on my wonderful cardboard table um you'll need paper scissors for cutting and uh, half inch scotch magic tape is patty mentioned and we like to put it in a weighted dispenser because it's like a second hand it's easier to get the tape off and the half inch is less stiff than the three quarters we found. The three quarters really stiffens up the pattern paper, so really, really, really don't want you to use three quarters and so now let's get ready to owe almost forgot to talk about the pattern paper pattern paper is fabulous it's tissue wait and it has two huge gigantic sheets in the package I wanted to show you how to use it and what you want to do first to separate one sheet out this folded differently than that usually is patty take that what I find works the best for cutting is I look I tried to align stripped the edges sometimes the folding machine really creases it incorrectly and sometimes the folding machine folds it nice in need but if you pin it to your cardboard so that it all matches up then you can cut the strips all the way through and not having to cut single layer the whole eighty four inches you'll learn eventually what size strips work the best for you and so I have pinned to the table here someone inch strips cem to incheon some three inch but I also have my noodle we found this is a great way to store the strips it's easy to pin into the noodle we used to use paper towels troops but the paper tell two was a little bit smaller and the pins would go all the way through and you prick yourself or toilet paper tubes so the noodle works very well and this is like a third of the noodle sumi noodles that the kids use and of course our fit book now our first object is to talk about measuring I'm going to measure myself the way we were taught with the full measurement which is and we were taught to put your had finger underneath so it's forty three inches if I do my high bust measurement it's thirty eight and a half however, I know I have a full back because I've been fitting myself for years and years and years. I know I have to add five eighths to the back of the pattern pigs most of the time, sometimes three quarters occasionally an inch. So if I'm adding five eights the pattern piece that's five eights for this half of my back and five eights for that half of my back, which means I'm adding an inch and a quarter, right? So I scooped the cheap over another inch and a quarter, which puts me in a size fourteen. Now it looks really tight, right? But it works. If I were to use the, um full bust measurement and I made up the pattern, this is the sheath dress pattern. This is the size twenty, which is my full bust measurements and the size twenty gets around me to see the back but its way to being here and it's impossible to take this all in to make it look right. You have to really do some finagle ng, so if I go to the size fourteen, fourteen won't fit at all except right here and that's my fourteen part of me I happen to have a fourteen arm so this's the fourteen part of me it won't go across my back at all and yet I can't decide if she's gonna use me so this is a different size this is obviously a very different size and a lot of different size but this is what I start with so I worked with a size fourteen so what I have done is and I've sown the dark san but I left them loose so they're not connected to the scene and I've just pin the side seam and this is how I fit um in steps but what I want to do is you can see my dart is quite big um before I actually finished this I'm goingto cut away the excess dart so I don't have this deep dark connected this side seem what happens oftentimes is people pull it over and you get drag lines and so you want to make sure it's in smooth and with taking away the bulk reduces that so let me put this on this is the trick and so now it comes to my waist and comes to the back easier to do if you have a few pins so it takes time to do the alteration but it really works one of the important things to know about this whole process is we're spending thirty percent of our sowing time before we ever so a stitch it's the fitting time and the fitting time is the most important part of the whole sewing project so now I'm gonna fit my first model that can you just reiterate for a smart oh where exactly on the back you're holding that when you're fitting yourself you're holding the measuring so how high up on your back were you holding that, uh sit here it's about brawl level generally and if somebody has really prominent shoulder blades, you sort of want to be under those I'm pretty much just under the arm great and how again you know that you're going? You're going to need that extra alteration based upon for many, many years of any yeah, but what were going even when even when I wass in college at oregon state setting home economics, I had a broad back so abroad back is my body type and sometimes it's because you have a deep chest your rib cage is establishing part of your body shape, you inherit your bone structure so you really can't do much about it. You get it from your parents, you might be tall, you might be short, you might be, you know, a little extra fluff here and there and that that's part of who we are I didn't use to be a size fourteen I used to be a size eight but time changes things that's what's so amazing about what you're teaching us in terms of what you see is what you get and that example where you just show that it's the twenty was not right with fourteen up here, but seeing the back and how you're going to need to alter that is is a really great place to start, and we're going to actually I'm one of the students who has around oh are brought back. We're going to start her start her out in the size that we measures so she's actually starting out and sizes too big. So that's what you might do if you haven't had the experience marta has, then you see well oh my gosh is too big through here even though it's in the back then you can trim the pattern down to the deck smaller size and do it brought back so you will see that marty just is been doing it for a very long time mostly wouldn't know right away if you a lot lot actually the clue for abroad. Backus when you drive a car and it's tight across here, it's not the sleeve that's tight it's not enough room across the back to move your arms forward that's kind of a clue if you have a broad back