Tailored to Fit: The Palmer/Pletsch Tissue Fitting Method
Lesson 9 of 17
Tissue Fitting for High Bust/Straight Back/ Making a Y-Bust
Tissue Fitting for High Bust/Straight Back/ Making a Y-Bust
Do you like to nancy's yeah I just hope turn it so that the two oranges there together there and if you make one of these velcroed elastics just have it for pant fitting and any kind of fitting it's very handy you have to tie something or pin it so can we start a penny marto what is it now with rhonda that we're going to be looking at and doing and showing we're going to see what we see so same pattern same pattern and a new body a different road map different road back yes great rhonda's how tall one three shorts and a tall on um can you use your own and you're also she's also sort of high busted like kenneth kenneth I have a hard time with that name for some reason other never heard it before and now we have to we have an extremely straight back remember the back is always what we look at first see how actually there's extra because she's so totally flat excellent posture they're okay down now now that scene was in the crease we do have five eighths here so the back with this perfect...
raise your arm a little bit off the side seam the waist is on the waist so that's good the length is correct again way have short not petite and we find that maur common there are actually it's actually hard to find a truly petite person not their notice that the dart on the pattern is way down here and her fullness is up here she doesn't have a huge bus full bust adjustment it's about an inch remember when we do the full bust adjustment the dark lowers the apex lowers so we don't do anything about changing the dark placement until after we've done the adjustment how's her arm hole is it actually we looked at the nine it's fine she's fucking and what have you don't have to change that what we do also have and this is very common it's called books groceries and babies this shoulder is much higher then this shoulder she's more uneven than anybody else was in class so we get to work on that here but and this shoulder is almost like a square shoulder and this is a sloping shoulder the pattern assumes a certain um difference from neck to shoulder that's the average for a lot of people but if you're more square shoulder getting more height here ifyou're soaping shoulder you need the shorten here but if you shorten here you have to lengthen down here otherwise the arm hole becomes too small does that make sense and reverse here so we're fitting the tall side then we'll in fabric when we do the fabric fitting will alter both shoulders that makes sense okay so we're not doing anything to your back we're not lengthening or shortening just doing the bust adjustment but let's check to see if we need to do oh why? How much was the best adjustment? Marta an inch it's okay across the front way did duel why yes you can use a half inch I think that's what we did will you tell us one more time with the why? What is it again that you are looking for is see this fluff you do if you were wearing a sleeveless dress you don't really want to see that so what we want is the center front to come the seem to come to that point does that make sense? So it looks prettier and so if it's not already that's when you need to add the wife thank you, andre, it wouldn't necessarily always be consistent because this is a very fitted dress. The arm hole is probably designed tighter to the body arms I and probably assuming that it's closer here if you were doing something like for instance, this is a real loose style. This is the sleeve through loose you probably don't need to worry about it. You should not going to see anything anyway. But the more fitted the garment is, the more fifteen you have to do. When I made that jacket all I did with my high round and low round that was it, so we are going to do the y and at the point where I folded which was right here what a half mansions right there swinging half inch there it's a total amount toll mounts on in just right so half inch in the high round area and that opens up to at the bus point that half of an inch was a half of an inch there grew too three quarters here so when I swing here and she I'm only opening this a little bit like that thank her anchor anchor and don't forget to cut line three there's been times I get this all taped in then I went online three so don't forget line three everybody does wait just need to fill this all in with tissue three handing marta paper makes me feel useful that made me feel really useful we need some alteration elf's it'd be there and stick paper and for us and tape it all up it's ok, I know you didn't just great we're fine on time yeah um I hate to have to see you do all that work, but I don't want no eats. One of the things that happens when you're using the wide art is that the apex doesn't drop down as much as it does with the regular dark so because the y opens here and the small in this particular case it's less on the regular alteration so the apex only dropped a quarter of an inch whereas on somebody it was over in an inch to news jeanette yeah because we had to get the waist down in front but hers was a little wider we added more so that would also enhance we did not do a why on her no the dart doesn't open as much with why your back is so straight that I was well when I was looking at it and I was saying well no you don't need ah hi round but she's so straight and a little sway so that's like a really erect back a little bit wait took us I would think she swayed back did you see that? Yeah, not yet not yet or you will okay yeah I was thinking there has to be a sway back in there why isn't there a way back I thought you had said the back was okay in length to so okay well it's good I said it was okay airways so we weren't gonna shorten good. What brought you back to sewing? Because I think that's a great story we'll brought me back to sewing was a event that I went to it was a christmas party and it was a formal event the theme was james bond so I decided to come back to sewing and of course start out with something really difficult a formal dress and I got the pattern based upon what size I thought I were and I put it together and I fed it a couple of times but I made it that finished it the day before the party it did not fit right and basically this part was was totally too large and this part was was too small and so I ended up making what adjustments like could based on what I knew and then I ended up wearing something over this part when I went to the party so no one would see it so then I came back to a class with nance see and she helped me make a formal dress using this whole process and it turned out beautifully trav with formal I understand it was a strapless black formal when it turned out beautifully what was the name of that one that one wass thing but I think it was like a money carlo night okay? It was really your friend who was giving those parties isn't doing it any are so you have no reason to make posters signed what you couldn't find anyone under ballroom dancing may be a great idea so you continuing to so oh yeah okay and I'm really looking forward to sewing with nits no excited about that and fitting the nets to me are you still taking classes with nancy? I haven't been for a little while but I'm going back I actually we cut out are actually we fit a coat and I haven't made it yet, so I'm going to come back to class with nancy and cut it out and and make it welcome back to fashion sewing I'm glad it was funny because in our workshops you know sewing has dwindled and quilting just went like crazy and in the last three or four years we ask people, why are you here? Oh, I've been quilting for years I gave up sewing because of fit and I love to sew but I've made a quote for every person in my family nobody wants any more quotes so I want a soap but I have to fit myself and that's sort of exciting because there's hundreds and millions I think of quilters out there so they all came back to fashion pardon? I'd be really happy I'm really happy well that's well my clothes bit so I could take that away so they could see you okay, now get to her center front but the darts still way down here so we need to move the dark an inch and a half so raise the dart an inch and a half correct nancy, we don't come across that very often doing most women get lower, your gravity takes its toll how are people are finding better broads these days and nancy used to always lower your best start uh was that I always had to lower my dart snitch until I went to nordstrom and you know it was refitted and um I got a whole new wardrobe but no, I don't have to lower them anymore we were so disappointed yesterday because we were going to use use the example of lowering a princess front which is very important to do before you do any altercation good foundations makes a big difference you offered to wear when you're old broads starting today but we didn't want you to have to do that so this is actually really fun uh moving in the dark and this is one now everybody's just so amazed it's so easy whitened I think of that one inch one and a half a one and a half accurate on the sheet here that brings up a really great point about what type of bra are people should you be wearing while you're while you're doing the fitting proper fitted abroad you're gonna wear that outfit with perhaps your hearing is very we learned this very were sort of naive about it and so women would come to the workshop and we'd fit them in the basic bodice that perfectly in the next day that come in and they try on the basic bodice and it did not fit it all well what did you do differently? Well they had changed bras totally different style may be an older broad softer so now we say I think we said to you guys when you came to be the clock to class either go get fitted for a bra and for sure where the same bra each day and who was surprised about when you went to get fitted for the bra all three and you know I bet you were put in a bigger cup sizes smaller around that seems to be what the train fitters air doing that happened to me too same here yeah so I think it's wise to be fitted you might be surprised how it changes your shape in your look and everything and comfort level I found a wealthy to brow I never even more broads because they're so uncomfortable but now I don't even feel it so so I have drawn a box around the dark area and you just cut on the box now those of you watching the creative life online class you have to practice cutting like marta da's backwards just refund in a four day workshop normally every students gathered around the table watching so there's no way I can you know move I had to learn to cut weird okay so now I've got the dart I can move the dark down or up whatever I want I could angle the dark if I want so I'm going to move it up an inch and a half and it goes straight up don't overlap in this area e no straight here yeah overlaps because that's because it's the angle right? So with your new bra are you perkier than you used to be with the others of you found one new nancy you found that can you do to in canada too? I think just more comfortably situated you put it that way right like it's if it doesn't fit right on the side of the band is too longer too small you feel like all of the bumps are not in the right places but having that be more it's more in tune with the line of the rest of your body well there's which is much that they look for two some people are wide spread and people are narrow and you're definitely narrow where yeah just been somewhere where they fall and how they sit on your body and and what style will fit you best as well which is very helpful I know the cameramen are really into three listen, I think everybody should know about good foundation underground for all genders everyone should be aware thanks for sharing. Okay, so now we have some serious trou ing to dio since we moved it up an inch and a half it's much closer to the under arm so what I'm going to do is true from this edge to this edge I'm just gonna put a piece of tissue on nate they're taping in place and ah, a new line from here to the dark point means true that sounds complicated when you have a gn angle let me do it on a craziness that one angle I could just cut up a piece of paper. No. Well, yeah, I could do it on a piece of paper could be more clear that way you get another white one there so you haven't seen or line that's diagonal and when you cut through it and move it wider or narrower up or down it's now skewed no longer in the same place so you would fill it in with tissue and then from that end to that end draw a new lines you're just true in the original tallest point and shortest point that makes a very good way to illustrate that marta doing here now what we pin the dart the uh dart from the waistline is at this point ending right there so it needs to be taller. There was a study a few years ago that, um very scientific study of not sure exactly how they did it but it proved that sewing reduced stress I think we all need to know that right? Maybe this city method will reduce stress and sewing, but I really think it's true because when you're sewing your sort of youth, either we focus a little bit of what you're doing or if it becomes wrote because you I know what you're doing and he's done it off and then your mind could just sort of go where it wants to go it's relaxing this long as you can take melissa's attitude and cut your losses if it's not going well and do it with okay, I've made things that never went outside the house or tell me not to teach a class sometimes it was fabric related sometimes it was that style just doesn't look right on me because in our minds we're still you know, forty year I'm seventy really so I think I'm forty but um of course I don't have the same body I had when I was forty so in a better place does that look much better know he has a at the center back she's one inch longer at the center back of the waist and that's because she is so totally straight she doesn't absorb any of the link that's in the pattern so the sway back tuck will bring that back up. I don't see drag lines that say we have to square the shoulder, but I do see for ruda how deep is this way back tuck, how much is it three moving an inch, really an inch it's hanging down an inch okay forward shoulder about a half inch actually, yeah, she looked like it was back quite a ways