Skip to main content

Prepping the Pattern

Lesson 4 from: Tailored to Fit: The Palmer/Pletsch Tissue Fitting Method

Pati Palmer, Marta Alto

buy this class


Sale Ends Soon!

starting under


Unlock this classplus 2200+ more >

Lesson Info

4. Prepping the Pattern

Lesson Info

Prepping the Pattern

Okay kanna the first thing we're going to do is measure and we're only just going to measure the high round the high bust and kenna is thirty two and a half is a ten and we're not quite the thirty four so we're going with the size ten where her measurements actually thirty three and three quarters so if she finds that that is too big or is too small she hurled preference could take her to a twelve so sometimes you're going to change but I can't start similar and you'll be pretty close the first time anyway so this particular pattern is unique in that it has nine sizes what is also unique is that the um sizes matched in threes so this is three sizes this is three sizes so you have to find the size ten amongst all the sizes on dh in order to see the little fine print I have to put on my bi folk als so I'm going to just rough cut size ten and will the size ten front way by having only three sizes per it makes a little easier to find the right line to cut on when you have nine sizes all st...

acked in one tissue it's it's amazing you have to really work so I'm going teo also our teachers love having size six two twenty two in one envelope because then they're never out of the size right now I'm going to press these and I have a iron set on wolf it's a dry iron, but by pressing it just makes it a little easier to cut things out. Now I want to do some marking to get rid of what you don't really need right now you have space, okay? I forgot to talk about the chain and that is helpful because it allows you to find your neckline at the back so I put the change you've got one on you're good, you have a change. Okay? If you have a pattern where you have more than one dart marked on the pattern before I cut it out, I find it helpful to mark the correct dark once the tissue is trimmed, your sighs sometimes it's hard to find your dart legs when there's more than one dart marked, so I want to mark the size on this one has one line at one leg of the dark and two lines at the other leg, so it makes it even more confusing sometimes it's necessary to mark your size where seems overlap like a this point in the under arm here or you learn the line for your size size ten is a solid line size eight is long dashes and size sixes long, short, long, short, so you have to follow the correct line when you're cutting it out I'm just going to tram just from around the arm hole here and then show you howto mark and tape, I have already cut this pattern out in the size ten and pinned it together so we can fit can weave done some prep to make it easy to do this class, so to measure five eighth with my little gauge a little when I'm not being a good assistant all mark the one inside see what she's looking for my gauge this pattern is unique and that the side seam and the waistline seem are one inch rather than five eights and so it's important to make that marking so that you pin it to group together at the right size for you do you need this? No, I don't need that. I like I like this little gauge because it's easy to mark vibrates especially around the curves the um when you cut to your size cut right up to the line but leave the line on the pattern and then you can always sort of quickly see that that's that you've trimmed around a ten if you cut the line off, it just makes it more confusing, clarifying question for you in terms of the measurement charts, so we started and we measured the high bust and that was a thirty one and a half, I think how how do you know then what size that correlates two is that standard across in the pdf downloads that you've provided or does that differ by pattern that the pattern cos they're very standardized and in the fifth book in the back of it when everybody had a basic pattern we photographed an overlay of the basic patterns and all the american companies and berta and they were so close to identical that it was sort of ridiculous stephen talk about differences and this minor but not that much so we use this with all patterns and there is a chart in that your handouts that does give you the major mint charts charts from six two twenty two do you have a quick reference it's a bit larger I think can a measured thirty three and three quarters and that was between ten and twelve that we're going down a size like we said putting it in a ten and that has usually worked pretty well so be sure and look at your hand outs and then you can write on your charge you khun put the pattern size and the date so that you know when you measure yourself you could put your measurement and I'll do that for you too thank you so now I have marked five eighths around the arm hole around the neckline and at the shoulder one inch of the side seam and one inch at the waist line and the dots are really part of the pattern that are important hollow, especially with multiple sized patterns okay, so this dot on the dart is that one inch from the cut edge on each size so you went with the dark is going through your size, then you're good, you know you've got the right seam allowance marked, so next we have to tape the arm hole, and what I like to do is anchor the pattern to the table because when you do the taping, what happens is the pattern will jump up and grab it because it's kind of attracted like a magnet on then you'll get a wrinkle in the tape, so you want to discuss little baby pieces of tape to go around the curve? I actually can't see the tape, so I have to feel make sure I overlap the pieces. If you do a really long piece of tape, it will just cause more issue so it's better to do little bits, anyone, a tape, both the arm hole and in this case, the neckline like patty said earlier, if the neckline is a lower neck like what I have on tapings not necessary and I I have a question about the seam allowance is why is there a need for two different size seam allowances? Doesn't that just add more confusion? It adds some confusion, but we like one inch side seems in case most of us I don't have a hour glass figure and the pattern is based on a ten inch difference from the bust to the waist so pattern has to be keyed in if your waist is only eight inches smaller than your bus you have to let out the waist line so we have a little leeway with that one inch seam allowance in this pattern if I had a pattern with only a five eighths inch seam allowance chances are I would make it an inch in my final fit so I would cut out in side seams I liken inside seam in my skirt it's actually couture ready to wear couture actually has wider seam allowances it lays better I leave the inch if I haven't seem allowance in my pants I leave that whole anche I like it generally I don't ever let it out but it's there in case so now I'm wanting to clip the arm hole you don't need to clip all the way just in the kirby part and check to make sure that cape is holding and then we pin the pattern together first we need to pin the darts and it's really important when you pin that the pin doesn't go through the seam line like that the pin needs to stop at the seam line if it goes through the seam line when you pin the side seam when you put it on the pin will go into the body way learned. When you pin the shoulder seam, you want to start at the seam line as well and pin just to the next scene line. So you're pinning up parts together. And when you pin them together, leave the darts floating. So they're not hooked in.

Class Materials

Free Downloads

Class Resources
How To Buy The Right Size Pattern
Sheath Dress Fit Pattern

Bonus Materials with Purchase

Body Map Alternations Worksheet
Fitting Order For Darted Front Tops or Bodices
How To Pick Your Correct Size
Body Graph Worksheet
How Tissue Fitting Works
Y-Bust Alteration
The Story of the Palmer/Pletsch Sheath Dress

Ratings and Reviews


This is one of the best courses I have taken online; I just wish you had the ability to make notes or tabs so you could refer back to certain sections more easily. I have met and followed Pati Palmer for many years but this was my first experience listening to Marta Alto and I see why they work so well together. Thank you both for sharing your many years of experience. It was interesting to hear Pati's history on many things and I really loved Marta's sense of humour it makes watching so much more fun!

Leslie coduti

I sew very well, imagine the disappointment when what I have sewn just does not fit well. Everyone who sews and wants what they have sewn to really be a joy to wear should take this course. It is like being there in the actual workshop. I am only half way through in the viewing and am anxious to apply what I have seen to my own sewing. It has been presented so well and in such detail that one comes away with confidence that they too can do this. I am also impatient, making a muslin takes time. Time is so precious and time to sew is really hard to come by. I have tissue fit pants in a workshop in Michigan and used a Palmer-Pletch pattern for a princess line dress I made in silk on my own. Both items fit my mature figure beautifully, and I did not have to make a muslin first for either one! When you hear, "What you see is what you get" believe it. Take this class, it will improve your fitting ability immensely and you won't believe how easy it is.

Rose Mellor

Love this program! Being able to watch the lessons multiple times is like taking the class over and over. For those of us who have a hard time learning something new this is sensational. Thank you, thank you, thank you. Rose Mellor

Student Work