Curves and Levels

Lesson 2 of 7

Using Eyedroppers in Photoshop

 

Curves and Levels

Lesson 2 of 7

Using Eyedroppers in Photoshop

 

Lesson Info

Using Eyedroppers in Photoshop

All right, so another possibility, let's, just reset this again is to do it visually on the image itself. So if you look on the side here, you'll see there are three eye droppers, black, gray and white and what this allows you to do and this is this is a little less technical. Then looking at the history, graham aries that option all key, but some people like it because they just want to make a decision to say, I think, right, there should be the darkest spot, and I think, right there should be the white a spot think so. Needless to say, if I took the black eye dropper, I should be clicking on what I think is the darkest area, and I'll show you away in a minute that weaken take some of that decision making out of your hands. But the danger, of course, is if you miss a little bit and say, I think this is the darkest part of the image is going to completely change things because you just said, well, that's the darkest spot I've gotta reorient everything else, and now it looks completely ...

different. So if you're going for the nuclear holocaust, look, you can easily do that by just looking in the wrong place with the eyedropper. So generally were going to say, well, I think that should be the darkest spot right there, and I think up here somewhere, it looks like one of the white ist parts, so that was me just taking a sort of a semi educated guess by looking at so I'm not necessarily advocating that's an everyday use. Having said that, if you're in a situation where you're in full control, your photographer and you're doing a photo shoot with a place, a person or something else, there are little cards you can get that have all sorts of color swatches on them, including black rain, white and the first shot you get the person to hold it and then take it away. So then in photo shop the first time you so I know that's black, I know that's why, you know that's great, and then say that is a preset that you can then apply to every other photograph. That's a really good idea, unless you're a wildlife photographer because you do not want to run up to the bear and say, let me just lean this card against you while I go and take a shot. I mean, I would not recommend that. Someone asked me once, couldn't you just add the great card in after the fact and that wouldn't work because it has to be how that photo is exposed that's why it has to be in the shot. You see, a lot of people use, uh, various cars, even just a solid gray or one that has all different colors, but make sure it has black, white gray on, so that is a solution for that issue. Now what you can do is make your life a little easier if you're not sure where I should. I think I want to use eye droppers, but I'm not sure where to click this eye dropper over here. The standard eyedropper is the one we used to choose color from our image, but hidden under there is another one called the color sampler tool that looks just like an eye dropper, but has a little tiny symbol beside it. And what this allows me to do is mark spots on my image that I can come back and look at later on so I can find them. So if I looked at this photograph and I had no clue where I should click with my black and wear my white, one of the solutions that I could potentially do is to add a different type of adjusting layer temporarily and won again. Key reasons were using a justin layers is by nature they are temporary so there is an adjustable air called threshold, which I can't think of too many other reasons why you'd ever use this because the threshold of justin layer says take away all color and all shades of gray and make a pixley they're black or white, so in a photograph like this, you'd be like, yeah, that's awesome! I would like all my landscape, so look just like that, so you wouldn't use it for purposes, but what you can do is if you move it all the way to the left, this is the equivalent of me holding down that option all key because now as I start to drag in, the first areas that appear are currently the darkest areas of my image. So with that active, if I take that color sampler tool and I clicked right on one of those black areas now there's a little symbol with the number one beside it and I know and I always do it in the same order, so I don't forget black his first white, his second, you could do whatever order you want as long as you remember, then you take this to the other end and as you start to drag in it's going to show you and say, well, those are the white ist areas now as you drag it and you'll see little tiny specks appear, I would go just a little further, so you see just a big enough part that you can actually click on it with the eyedropper, because if it's too small, if you're off by a pixel it's going to throw everything off and if you wanted to, you could zoom in and get a little closer. Of course, some people that I work with they want to give themselves choices so they do one and two are both two different black points possibly and three and four percent have four in total, three and four are two different highlights. Bob so that's another option if you wanted to. I tend to just use too, because usually it's enough for what I want. So now you can see, I think it's easier to see the number two up there now, if I were to add levels, aiken instead of guessing, take my black eye dropper and line it up on top of that one and take my white eyedropper and lining up on top of that one. So now the adjustment was made still using those eye droppers instead of me totally going, I think there's a good spot. This was a more educated guess that those eye droppers, by the way, also appear incurs so you could also do exactly the same operation opening curves, but frankly, if you're going to use curves, there's, other reasons, you would use it besides just using the eye droppers. The last thing I want to mention for now about curves is there's one other choice that some people like and again to me I use is depending a lot on the image by default when you open curves and look at that history graham, and use that as your reference to move those little triangles in it's showing you the full rgb combination. But depending on the photograph, you can also use this method where you go to each individual channel. So I go to the red channel, and it shows me the history graham for that one. So now I could move in these spots kind of match up with the end of that history knows how the red channel didn't go all the way to the highlights like it did in the rg beast, that's telling me that there really isn't a lot of red in the highlights, which which is either good or bad, depending how you look at it, how you want your image, to look at, the one thing I will pause and tell you is don't judge this method until you get all the way through it because about half way through you'll be like really because it looks because you're only adjusting individual color channel so halfway through it looks quite often like oh, this is not good so you have to go through the whole thing before you decide is this good or not? So you used that same theory for each one and then blew there are keyboard shortcuts for all these things, so now you can see that's the adjustment that made some people use this method every single time they make an adjustment in levels because they feel like it's giving a lot more accuracy. I've done a little bit of testing or kind of done a couple different methods and the difference is subtle enough that to me I don't know what I mean that's one you just have to decide for yourself again and try and see if there's one that you like better than the other is there any way toe automate that process to do it on every single picture that you bring? Unfortunately not because eventually you still have to move in the images that what you could do it. Like I said, there are keyboard shortcuts for red, green and blue suit at least do that part all faster but the unfortunate that's one that's always nice to automate but any automation includes moving not x percent. But to match up with the history ran just makes a little harder unless you had, I should clarify. I mean, if you had twenty five photos that were taking exactly the same time, there's a better chance to you, at least automate, because you're doing it to the same type of photo in each case. But even that I know personally, if I'm out there taking landscape, so I'm gonna take a couple shots and make a little tweak to setting, so they're not all gonna look exactly the same anyway, ok.

Class Description

What is the best way to adjust your image? In Curves and Levels, Dave Cross will edit images using Levels, Curves, Camera Raw, and Lightroom to demonstrate the differences between each approach.

You’ll look at the advantages of each technique and learn when you should use each method. You’ll walk away with a better understanding of how these important techniques work and how to decide which tool to use for the job.


Software Used: Adobe Photoshop CC 2014.2.2

Reviews

jcashin
 

I have been working in PS for about a year and I learned SO much from watching this course about curves and levels. I'm sure I'll so back through and watch again. I'm so glad I purchased this course and Dave is an excellent teacher. I love the fact that he emphasizes nondestructive editing and shows you how to accomplish that easily. Thanks Dave and Creative Live.